Date   

Re: bobbin thread included with machine

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

That's actually understandable. A lot of people buy commercial bobbin thread on large cones. It's much finer than Janome bobbin thread, and will pull up with a normal bobbin case. Perhaps that's why they added the extra case.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Sherry Martin" <shejmartin@...> wrote:

The instruction manual actually says to change the bobbin holder for all bobbin threads except Janome, which I thought was interesting.


Re: connecting to a computer

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

Have you installed the 1.01 update to your machine? It is for adding some languages, as well as correcting "minor issues." We had intermittent connection problems with our machine before installing this update, and we use XP SP3. You can download the update here:
http://www.janome.co.jp/e/e_downloads/mc12000v101.html
Let us know if that helps.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "elainesjosiegirl" <elainekaiser@...> wrote:

Is anyone else having a problem linking the MC12000 to their computer? I downloaded the HorizonLink disk that came with the 12000. That part works just fine. But when I tried to connect the computer to the 12000 the computer would not accept the hardware. A Janome tech contacted me and tried very hard to get it to work. She has had to turn it over to Tokoyo. So far no results. My system program is Windows XP Professional with Service Pack 3. I mentioned that I am part of this forum and she asked if I would tell all of you my problem to see if there is anyone else having a problem with their computer link.


Re: Upgrading

Sherry Martin
 

Also forgot to mention that I got him to go down $900 from the 1st price he quoted me, so you might be able to haggle a little bit.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Sherry Martin" <shejmartin@...> wrote:

I traded in a 6 month old 11000 and also got a 3160 for my "class" machine. My dealer also gave it to me as part of the deal, along with exchanging my 24x32 sew steady table for one that fits the 12000, and I traded in a roller bag for my 11000 for a smaller one to fit the 3160 with no price difference (he should have made money on it because it was about $130 when I bought it and I only used it twice and the retail for the new bag was $70). He was pretty insistent that that would be the machine I would want for classes. I was willing to take a lesser model, but he didn't think I'd be happy and didn't even really quote me a price for anything else. If you figure that supposedly you can get the 12000 for $9000 ($12,000 retail) and the 3160 is $699 (supposedly $1000 retail), I got about $3500 for my 11000. I paid $5000 for it, which unfortunately was more than I should have. I bought it at a different dealer, and I found out later that the dealer I bought the 12000 from was selling it for $3800 at the same time I bought mine. So I lost some money in the deal but that was mostly because I paid too much for the 11000 to begin with. Oh, also got 48 mos. 0% financing.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "mcmaster_heather" <hddcreation@> wrote:

Hi
i am a newie to the site. Live in QLD Australia, on my own after recent passing of D H. Have owned Janome machines since 1982 and still have my memory Craft 6000 28 years. Have a daughter in Adelaide getting married in Sept 12. A son, daughter in law and two small granddaughters( 2 1/2 & 12 weeks) in Darwin whom I am visiting at Christmas.

Joined to get info on the 12000 as I am considering upgrading my 5 month old 7700 which I got after having a 6600 for 4 years. I have never used an embroidery machine before and it seems a bit daunting. But that said I think I am ready for a few new challenges in my life.
I have been into my dealer and he has offered me the 12000 for $8500 Aus. (rrp 11999). I reminded him my 7700 was hardly used so he brought down to $8000. I rang around and got similar offer from another dealer further away.
Then I asked about the 3160 as I would like option of a machine to stitch on while the embroideries stitch out. Second dealer gave a price of $699. Original dealer said Yes I can "chuck it in" and at NO extra price!!
Am seriously considering deal and off to dealer on Monday for a look and play.

Have belonged to the group sites for both other machines and find them very helpful

Cheers
Heather
Cooloola Coast QLD


Re: Upgrading

Sherry Martin
 

I traded in a 6 month old 11000 and also got a 3160 for my "class" machine. My dealer also gave it to me as part of the deal, along with exchanging my 24x32 sew steady table for one that fits the 12000. He was pretty insistent that that would be the machine I would want for classes. I was willing to take a lesser model, but he didn't think I'd be happy and didn't even really quote me a price for anything else. If you figure that supposedly you can get the 12000 for $9000 ($12,000 retail) and the 3160 is $699 (supposedly $1000 retail), I got about $3500 for my 11000. I paid $5000 for it, which unfortunately was more than I should have. I bought it at a different dealer, and I found out later that the dealer I bought the 12000 from was selling it for $3800 at the same time I bought mine. So I lost some money in the deal but that was mostly because I paid too much for the 11000 to begin with. Oh, also got 48 mos. 0% financing.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "mcmaster_heather" <hddcreation@...> wrote:

Hi
i am a newie to the site. Live in QLD Australia, on my own after recent passing of D H. Have owned Janome machines since 1982 and still have my memory Craft 6000 28 years. Have a daughter in Adelaide getting married in Sept 12. A son, daughter in law and two small granddaughters( 2 1/2 & 12 weeks) in Darwin whom I am visiting at Christmas.

Joined to get info on the 12000 as I am considering upgrading my 5 month old 7700 which I got after having a 6600 for 4 years. I have never used an embroidery machine before and it seems a bit daunting. But that said I think I am ready for a few new challenges in my life.
I have been into my dealer and he has offered me the 12000 for $8500 Aus. (rrp 11999). I reminded him my 7700 was hardly used so he brought down to $8000. I rang around and got similar offer from another dealer further away.
Then I asked about the 3160 as I would like option of a machine to stitch on while the embroideries stitch out. Second dealer gave a price of $699. Original dealer said Yes I can "chuck it in" and at NO extra price!!
Am seriously considering deal and off to dealer on Monday for a look and play.

Have belonged to the group sites for both other machines and find them very helpful

Cheers
Heather
Cooloola Coast QLD


Re: bobbin thread included with machine

Sherry Martin
 

The instruction manual actually says to change the bobbin holder for all bobbin threads except Janome, which I thought was interesting.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@...> wrote:

The bobbin thread included with the machine is Janome's own bobbin thread that they've been using since the 8000. It's very good for embroidery. As for the embroidery bobbin case, that's a departure for Janome. In every embroidery-capable machine up to now, they've used a single bobbin case for both sewing and embroidery. The machines adjust the needle tension as needed for perfect sewing and embroidery. However if you read the various lists on Yahoo, the number one problem that embroiderers are always asking for help with is bobbin thread showing on top. Bobbin tension is only one possible cause for this problem, but by putting in a bobbin case with extra tension they can ensure that no bobbin shows even if things aren't quite right.

In our tests we have gotten good embroidery results even with the standard bobbin case. We've been using Janome bobbins pre-wound with Robison-Anton bobbin thread. These are available from Janome dealers as part #RAPREW108.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "janetpiekarski" <jsm1144@> wrote:

Hello, all!
Jim, is that spool of bobbin thread that's included with the machine the fine sort that requires that special bobbin case?? (Or is it meant only for the MB-4 thread and the like)?


connecting to a computer

elainesjosiegirl <elainekaiser@...>
 

Is anyone else having a problem linking the MC12000 to their computer? I downloaded the HorizonLink disk that came with the 12000. That part works just fine. But when I tried to connect the computer to the 12000 the computer would not accept the hardware. A Janome tech contacted me and tried very hard to get it to work. She has had to turn it over to Tokoyo. So far no results. My system program is Windows XP Professional with Service Pack 3. I mentioned that I am part of this forum and she asked if I would tell all of you my problem to see if there is anyone else having a problem with their computer link.


Re: embroidery placement and hoop question

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

The clips are handy for taking up slack on the edges, where the hoop rings don't hold as well. Yes, keeping the rolled up edge of the quilt out of the hoop is a challenge. Holding it is a good idea. Although everyone here has probably passed the point of watching every embroidery in rapt fascination, we also know that leaving for a cup of tea, answering the phone, or heeding nature's call is a surefire way to cause a sleeve to fall into the hoop, the needle to fall out, or the inner ring of the hoop to leap out.

While we don't have an official announcement of an AcuQuilt hoop for the 12000, I'm certain that it will eventually get all the features of its little sister the 11000. Digitizer MBX gives us a hint, with the choice of an ASQ23 hoop for the 12000. That would suggest an AquQuilt hoop measuring 230 x 230mm.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "gbmko" <gbmko@...> wrote:

thank you to all who responded with tips and info! I got real good at moving the design around, and actually came very close to centering it where I needed...don't know how I missed the icon that moves the needle! I'll give that a try. I'll try to remember to post a picture of how much better the 12000 did on the design than my 165. the little bit that the design was off was I'm sure due to the fact that I didn't hoop it very tightly.

So, I gather, you do hoop AND use the clips? Has anyone actually done a queen size quilt yet using the large hoop? As the hoop can move all the way to the inside of the arm, my thought is that the bulk of the quilt under the arm would interfere with the hoop movement..does it work to just hold it up?

Any definitive word on whether there will be an acuquilt hoop? I don't have one, but in the pictures it looks deeper, better able to manage the bulk. I'd still prefer to avoid having to use any stabilizer if at all possible. Much thanks for all the sharing of ideas!


Re: bobbin thread included with machine

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

The bobbin thread included with the machine is Janome's own bobbin thread that they've been using since the 8000. It's very good for embroidery. As for the embroidery bobbin case, that's a departure for Janome. In every embroidery-capable machine up to now, they've used a single bobbin case for both sewing and embroidery. The machines adjust the needle tension as needed for perfect sewing and embroidery. However if you read the various lists on Yahoo, the number one problem that embroiderers are always asking for help with is bobbin thread showing on top. Bobbin tension is only one possible cause for this problem, but by putting in a bobbin case with extra tension they can ensure that no bobbin shows even if things aren't quite right.

In our tests we have gotten good embroidery results even with the standard bobbin case. We've been using Janome bobbins pre-wound with Robison-Anton bobbin thread. These are available from Janome dealers as part #RAPREW108.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "janetpiekarski" <jsm1144@...> wrote:

Hello, all!
Jim, is that spool of bobbin thread that's included with the machine the fine sort that requires that special bobbin case?? (Or is it meant only for the MB-4 thread and the like)?


Re: Bobbin thread question

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

If you go to the Embroidery SET screen you can set the trigger point for low bobbin. On our machine a value of 1 leaves about a yard of thread on the bobbin at the "low bobbin" point.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "stitchnpatch" <stitchnpatch@...> wrote:

This is one of the very few things on the 12000 that irritates me and that I hope will be rectified in the future. It seems such a waste of expensive (here in the UK) Janome bobbinfil especially when I know that there is plenty of thread left on the bobbin to stitch the next section of the design. Fortunately I have a 350e and can use up the ends of the bobbins on that as I can override it's low bobbin warning.
Vicki


Upgrading

mcmaster_heather
 

Hi
i am a newie to the site. Live in QLD Australia, on my own after recent passing of D H. Have owned Janome machines since 1982 and still have my memory Craft 6000 28 years. Have a daughter in Adelaide getting married in Sept 12. A son, daughter in law and two small granddaughters( 2 1/2 & 12 weeks) in Darwin whom I am visiting at Christmas.

Joined to get info on the 12000 as I am considering upgrading my 5 month old 7700 which I got after having a 6600 for 4 years. I have never used an embroidery machine before and it seems a bit daunting. But that said I think I am ready for a few new challenges in my life.
I have been into my dealer and he has offered me the 12000 for $8500 Aus. (rrp 11999). I reminded him my 7700 was hardly used so he brought down to $8000. I rang around and got similar offer from another dealer further away.
Then I asked about the 3160 as I would like option of a machine to stitch on while the embroideries stitch out. Second dealer gave a price of $699. Original dealer said Yes I can "chuck it in" and at NO extra price!!
Am seriously considering deal and off to dealer on Monday for a look and play.

Have belonged to the group sites for both other machines and find them very helpful

Cheers
Heather
Cooloola Coast QLD


Re: embroidery placement and hoop question

gbmko
 

thank you to all who responded with tips and info! I got real good at moving the design around, and actually came very close to centering it where I needed...don't know how I missed the icon that moves the needle! I'll give that a try. I'll try to remember to post a picture of how much better the 12000 did on the design than my 165. the little bit that the design was off was I'm sure due to the fact that I didn't hoop it very tightly.

So, I gather, you do hoop AND use the clips? Has anyone actually done a queen size quilt yet using the large hoop? As the hoop can move all the way to the inside of the arm, my thought is that the bulk of the quilt under the arm would interfere with the hoop movement..does it work to just hold it up?

Any definitive word on whether there will be an acuquilt hoop? I don't have one, but in the pictures it looks deeper, better able to manage the bulk. I'd still prefer to avoid having to use any stabilizer if at all possible. Much thanks for all the sharing of ideas!

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "gbmko" <gbmko@...> wrote:

On the magnetic hoops, do you use the inner hoop and the clips? Or with a quilt, can you just use the clips? I tried hooping my queen size quilt today in the center, but used the smaller hoop with out the magnets, as I had half the quilt rolled up under the arm, so needed the room without having to worry about the hoop not having room to move. The quilt kept popping out of the hoop, so I kind of struggled getting it to the embroidery machine. The acufil quilting hoops are deeper, aren't they? But once I did, the embroidery unit itself did a much better job of quilting the design than my Bernina 165, so it is able to handle the quilt without the design dragging out of place. If I could have hooped it better, or more tightly, it would have been perfect. Any tips? (don't want the cost of using sticky stabilizer, as really, no stabilizer is needed)

Also, as I am embroidering on pieced sections, and need the needle at the center of the design to come down exactly at the intersection of 4 triangles, I couldn't figure out how to check this, as the embroidery unit doesn't move when I move the design on the screen to where I think the center should be. I couldn't find in the book how to check on the precise placement I needed. I tried just guessing by the number of squares on the hoop grid and on the screen, but that is not near precise enough. I'm used to moving my needle to exactly where I want the center of the design to be...so how do I do this? thanks!


bobbin thread included with machine

janetpiekarski
 

Hello, all!
Jim, is that spool of bobbin thread that's included with the machine the fine sort that requires that special bobbin case?? (Or is it meant only for the MB-4 thread and the like)?


Re: Bobbin thread question

stitchnpatch
 

This is one of the very few things on the 12000 that irritates me and that I hope will be rectified in the future. It seems such a waste of expensive (here in the UK) Janome bobbinfil especially when I know that there is plenty of thread left on the bobbin to stitch the next section of the design. Fortunately I have a 350e and can use up the ends of the bobbins on that as I can override it's low bobbin warning.
Vicki


Re: bobbin thread nesting question

Maria Boyle
 

Thanks Jim,

I do have 5D professional which has a stitch editor. Will play with that.




María

Sent from my iPad

On Dec 2, 2011, at 9:55 AM, "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@onlinesewing.com> wrote:

Now that we know what you are doing we can respond (a little) more intelligently. You need to use water soluble stabilizer for a project of this type. If the whole thing stitches fine until you get to a specific spot, there are most likely too many stitches in that spot. You have no control over that, and there's not much you can do to correct it. If you have Digitizer you could maybe use EasyEdit in Stitch Mode to delete or move the excess stitches. I would suggest taking a photo of it to show the problem area and contact the designer.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, Maria Boyle <maruka1@...> wrote:

Hi Jim,

No I am not doing FSL. I just posted a reply previous to this one, where I explain what I am working on.

Thanks for the tip. I will different stabilizer the next one I make

María

Sent from my iPad


On Dec 1, 2011, at 8:55 PM, "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@...> wrote:

Aqua Magic is a water soluble stabilizer. Are you doing freestanding lace (FSL)? If not, this is not a good stabilizer for dense designs non-lace designs. Cut away would be better. If you are doing FSL you might try using a fine serger thread. Janome makes 60wt and 90wt serger thread that makes great FSL. Few dealers carry it, and it's more expensive than any other serger thread, but it does make great lace.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, Maria Boyle <maruka1@> wrote:
Thank you Jim

I changed the needle to the blue one. Was using the needle that came already attached tithe machine, which was a red one. I'm almost done with the design, hopefully that will solve the problem. As for stabilizer, I am using inspira aqua magic.

I plan to make a few more. Will be interesting to know if this time around all will go smooth sailing. If it happens again in the same area, then its the design.

Thanks again for your reply.



María

Sent from my iPad




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: bobbin thread nesting question

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

Now that we know what you are doing we can respond (a little) more intelligently. You need to use water soluble stabilizer for a project of this type. If the whole thing stitches fine until you get to a specific spot, there are most likely too many stitches in that spot. You have no control over that, and there's not much you can do to correct it. If you have Digitizer you could maybe use EasyEdit in Stitch Mode to delete or move the excess stitches. I would suggest taking a photo of it to show the problem area and contact the designer.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, Maria Boyle <maruka1@...> wrote:

Hi Jim,

No I am not doing FSL. I just posted a reply previous to this one, where I explain what I am working on.

Thanks for the tip. I will different stabilizer the next one I make

María

Sent from my iPad


On Dec 1, 2011, at 8:55 PM, "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@...> wrote:

Aqua Magic is a water soluble stabilizer. Are you doing freestanding lace (FSL)? If not, this is not a good stabilizer for dense designs non-lace designs. Cut away would be better. If you are doing FSL you might try using a fine serger thread. Janome makes 60wt and 90wt serger thread that makes great FSL. Few dealers carry it, and it's more expensive than any other serger thread, but it does make great lace.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, Maria Boyle <maruka1@> wrote:
Thank you Jim

I changed the needle to the blue one. Was using the needle that came already attached tithe machine, which was a red one. I'm almost done with the design, hopefully that will solve the problem. As for stabilizer, I am using inspira aqua magic.

I plan to make a few more. Will be interesting to know if this time around all will go smooth sailing. If it happens again in the same area, then its the design.

Thanks again for your reply.



María

Sent from my iPad




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: embroidery placement and hoop question

vicki chrobak
 

I've found the double basting in the hoop extremely useful, especially with heavy/thick fabrics. I don't hoop the fabric just the stabilizer.

--
Vicki Jo


Re: embroidery placement and hoop question

Virginia
 

It is a little more difficult to hoop the project with the 3 layers of fabric/batting but depending on how thick the batting  is.  I use Cotton Theory batting which is 80% cotton and 20% poly and had no problem, using both the GR Hoop and the 9x9.  Once I hooped it and put the clips on I realized that the clips hold both the top and bottom hoops secure and did a much better job with the quilting than using my 11,000SE.  This new machine with all its accessories and features  are awesome.  The more I use it the more wonderful and exciting  things I discover.
 
Virginia


Re: embroidery placement and hoop question

Virginia
 

The Icon is on the top right hand side and shows a spool of thread and a needle.  Just press once and the arrows appear under the design and you can move the needle  lef, right up or down to where you want your beginning to be.
 
Virginia
 

In a message dated 12/2/2011 8:26:51 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, shejmartin@... writes:
 

When you have an embroidery design loaded, there is an icon at the top and I think far right that you push and it brings up a set of 4 arrows that you can press to move the needle up, down, right, and left. Just learned about it yesterday in my class to get to know my machine.

Also when I used sticky stabilizer for quilts I would hoop it once and then after I did the embroidery, I would pull the quilt off and then just put more sticky stabilizer just over the hole that was left (not rehooping a whole piece). I could do this quite a few times before I need to rehoop a whole piece. I haven't tried it on this machine but I used to do it on my Husqvarna a while ago. Also it made it a lot easier to get the quilt exactly where I wanted it in the hoop.

--- In janome12000@..., "gbmko" wrote:
>
> On the magnetic hoops, do you use the inner hoop and the clips? Or with a quilt, can you just use the clips? I tried hooping my queen size quilt today in the center, but used the smaller hoop with out the magnets, as I had half the quilt rolled up under the arm, so needed the room without having to worry about the hoop not having room to move. The quilt kept popping out of the hoop, so I kind of struggled getting it to the embroidery machine. The acufil quilting hoops are deeper, aren't they? But once I did, the embroidery unit itself did a much better job of quilting the design than my Bernina 165, so it is able to handle the quilt without the design dragging out of place. If I could have hooped it better, or more tightly, it would have been perfect. Any tips? (don't want the cost of using sticky stabilizer, as really, no stabilizer is needed)
>
> Also, as I am embroidering on pieced sections, and need the needle at the center of the design to come down exactly at the intersection of 4 triangles, I couldn't figure out how to check this, as the embroidery unit doesn't move when I move the design on the screen to where I think the center should be. I couldn't find in the book how to check on the precise placement I needed. I tried just guessing by the number of squares on the hoop grid and on the screen, but that is not near precise enough. I'm used to moving my needle to exactly where I want the center of the design to be...so how do I do this? thanks!
>


Re: embroidery placement and hoop question

Sherry Martin
 

When you have an embroidery design loaded, there is an icon at the top and I think far right that you push and it brings up a set of 4 arrows that you can press to move the needle up, down, right, and left. Just learned about it yesterday in my class to get to know my machine.

Also when I used sticky stabilizer for quilts I would hoop it once and then after I did the embroidery, I would pull the quilt off and then just put more sticky stabilizer just over the hole that was left (not rehooping a whole piece). I could do this quite a few times before I need to rehoop a whole piece. I haven't tried it on this machine but I used to do it on my Husqvarna a while ago. Also it made it a lot easier to get the quilt exactly where I wanted it in the hoop.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "gbmko" <gbmko@...> wrote:

On the magnetic hoops, do you use the inner hoop and the clips? Or with a quilt, can you just use the clips? I tried hooping my queen size quilt today in the center, but used the smaller hoop with out the magnets, as I had half the quilt rolled up under the arm, so needed the room without having to worry about the hoop not having room to move. The quilt kept popping out of the hoop, so I kind of struggled getting it to the embroidery machine. The acufil quilting hoops are deeper, aren't they? But once I did, the embroidery unit itself did a much better job of quilting the design than my Bernina 165, so it is able to handle the quilt without the design dragging out of place. If I could have hooped it better, or more tightly, it would have been perfect. Any tips? (don't want the cost of using sticky stabilizer, as really, no stabilizer is needed)

Also, as I am embroidering on pieced sections, and need the needle at the center of the design to come down exactly at the intersection of 4 triangles, I couldn't figure out how to check this, as the embroidery unit doesn't move when I move the design on the screen to where I think the center should be. I couldn't find in the book how to check on the precise placement I needed. I tried just guessing by the number of squares on the hoop grid and on the screen, but that is not near precise enough. I'm used to moving my needle to exactly where I want the center of the design to be...so how do I do this? thanks!


embroidery placement and hoop question

gbmko
 

On the magnetic hoops, do you use the inner hoop and the clips? Or with a quilt, can you just use the clips? I tried hooping my queen size quilt today in the center, but used the smaller hoop with out the magnets, as I had half the quilt rolled up under the arm, so needed the room without having to worry about the hoop not having room to move. The quilt kept popping out of the hoop, so I kind of struggled getting it to the embroidery machine. The acufil quilting hoops are deeper, aren't they? But once I did, the embroidery unit itself did a much better job of quilting the design than my Bernina 165, so it is able to handle the quilt without the design dragging out of place. If I could have hooped it better, or more tightly, it would have been perfect. Any tips? (don't want the cost of using sticky stabilizer, as really, no stabilizer is needed)

Also, as I am embroidering on pieced sections, and need the needle at the center of the design to come down exactly at the intersection of 4 triangles, I couldn't figure out how to check this, as the embroidery unit doesn't move when I move the design on the screen to where I think the center should be. I couldn't find in the book how to check on the precise placement I needed. I tried just guessing by the number of squares on the hoop grid and on the screen, but that is not near precise enough. I'm used to moving my needle to exactly where I want the center of the design to be...so how do I do this? thanks!