Date   

Re: Extra large foot control

Julie
 

I can’t remember what the retail price was – something like $119 perhaps but I had a Club discount when I bought it so not sure.

 

Julie

 

Re: Extra large foot control

Fri Jan 25, 2013 9:00 pm (PST) . Posted by:

"Vikki Youngmeyer" vyoungmeyer

How much did you pay for it?

Vikki

Houston, TX


jogging the needle

suemonin
 

Ok, never mind I figured it out myself!  Thanks anyway.

--
check out my website at
www.kidsstuffofwny.com


help please

suemonin
 

I'm new to my Janome 12000 and need some help.  When centering a design in the hoop and the fabric is off by a bit, how would I jog the center needle position over to the center?  With my Brother you just jogged the keys right or left, up or down a few bumps as needed.  My Janome jogs but it moves the design in software but the needle does not move on the machine.  What am I doing wrong?

Sue in WNY

--
check out my website at
www.kidsstuffofwny.com


Re: Is there any way to get a viking ankle to work on Janome

janetpiekarski
 

I just looked the special foot for making long buttonholes on the 12000, the stock number is: 202082008 hope this helps!

--- In janome12000@..., "Julie" wrote:

Tracy, I've not been able to get it to work on the Janome. Perhaps someone
else might know a trick.



I have a Designer SE - so when I need one of the 45-50 wonderful feet that I
have for that machine, I have to use the machine itself. Actually, I was
trying to make a buttonhole on the MC12000 last week and the buttonhole foot
does not make a buttonhole longer than a tiny bit over 1". I had a button
that was 1 1/8 and it would not fit in the foot to make that size
buttonhole. I had to make my buttonhole on the Viking and use the Viking
Buttonhole foot. It will make just about any size buttonhole. With the
Janome it's possible to make longer buttonholes, but you have to use a
regular foot and then hope that you can keep everything straight. I've not
had good luck doing that.



Julie





2BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzc4OTc5MTYzBGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2MzY0NgRtc2dJZAM0Mzg
xBHNlYwNkbXNnBHNsawN2bXNnBHN0aW1lAzEzNTkxNjIxMDU-> Is there any way to get a
viking ankle to work on Janome


Fri Jan 25, 2013 8:53 am (PST) . Posted by:



0get%20a%20viking%20ankle%20to%20work%20on%20Janome> "nursetracy79"
nursetracy79


I have had a viking D1 for many years so I have lots of feet. I was
wondering if anyone out there had figured out how to get a viking ankle to
work on this machine, it seems like it wouldn't line up correctly. If anyone
has done this or has any ideas I would appreciate it.

Tracy in WY


Re: Is there any way to get a viking ankle to work on Janome

janetpiekarski
 

I think there's a "B" foot that is made for those longer buttonholes. I know it exists for the 7mm plate. You can use that to make buttonholes as long as your arm and they do stay straight.
--- In janome12000@..., "Julie" wrote:

Tracy, I've not been able to get it to work on the Janome. Perhaps someone
else might know a trick.



I have a Designer SE - so when I need one of the 45-50 wonderful feet that I
have for that machine, I have to use the machine itself. Actually, I was
trying to make a buttonhole on the MC12000 last week and the buttonhole foot
does not make a buttonhole longer than a tiny bit over 1". I had a button
that was 1 1/8 and it would not fit in the foot to make that size
buttonhole. I had to make my buttonhole on the Viking and use the Viking
Buttonhole foot. It will make just about any size buttonhole. With the
Janome it's possible to make longer buttonholes, but you have to use a
regular foot and then hope that you can keep everything straight. I've not
had good luck doing that.



Julie





2BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzc4OTc5MTYzBGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTA2MzY0NgRtc2dJZAM0Mzg
xBHNlYwNkbXNnBHNsawN2bXNnBHN0aW1lAzEzNTkxNjIxMDU-> Is there any way to get a
viking ankle to work on Janome


Fri Jan 25, 2013 8:53 am (PST) . Posted by:



0get%20a%20viking%20ankle%20to%20work%20on%20Janome> "nursetracy79"
nursetracy79


I have had a viking D1 for many years so I have lots of feet. I was
wondering if anyone out there had figured out how to get a viking ankle to
work on this machine, it seems like it wouldn't line up correctly. If anyone
has done this or has any ideas I would appreciate it.

Tracy in WY


Re: Is there any way to get a viking ankle to work on Janome

Julie
 

Tracy, I’ve not been able to get it to work on the Janome.  Perhaps someone else might know a trick.

 

I have a Designer SE – so when I need one of the 45-50 wonderful feet that I have for that machine, I have to use the machine itself.  Actually, I was trying to make a buttonhole on the MC12000 last week and the buttonhole foot does not make a buttonhole longer than a tiny bit over 1”.  I had a button that was 1 1/8 and it would not fit in the foot to make that size buttonhole.  I had to make my buttonhole on the Viking and use the Viking Buttonhole foot.   It will make just about any size buttonhole.  With the Janome it’s possible to make longer buttonholes, but you have to use a regular foot and then hope that you can keep everything straight.  I’ve not had good luck doing that. 

 

Julie

 

Is there any way to get a viking ankle to work on Janome

Fri Jan 25, 2013 8:53 am (PST) . Posted by:

"nursetracy79" nursetracy79

I have had a viking D1 for many years so I have lots of feet. I was wondering if anyone out there had figured out how to get a viking ankle to work on this machine, it seems like it wouldn't line up correctly. If anyone has done this or has any ideas I would appreciate it.

Tracy in WY

 


Re: Is there any way to get a viking ankle to work on Janome

berninahusq
 

--- In janome12000@..., "nursetracy79" wrote:

I have had a viking D1 for many years so I have lots of feet. I was wondering if anyone out there had figured out how to get a viking ankle to work on this machine, it seems like it wouldn't line up correctly.
See my write up here

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/janome12000/message/3774

You are correct that it will not correctly line up so you'll have to make adjustments to the drop needle position for straight stitches, or for straight stitches and just a few more stitches like zig zag and blanket stitches you need to select a Sewing Application (see pages 67-83 of the manual). Best to manually check if your needle clears the presser foot opening first. The MC12000 will not allow you to adjust the needle drop position for decorative stitches as far as I can tell, which is something that I have been using for years on my other machines quite frequently.

Kanga


Re: Extra large foot control

Vikki Youngmeyer
 

How much did you pay for it?

 

Vikki

Houston, TX

 

From: janome12000@... [mailto:janome12000@...] On Behalf Of Julie
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2013 11:55 AM
To: janome12000@...
Subject: [janome12000] Extra large foot control

 

 

I love this extra large foot control for Janome machines.  I am using it with the MC12000 and it’s wonderful.  It doesn’t slip and slide around and I’m very happy Janome thought of this.  I think it might fit most Janome machines that are computerized.

 

http://content.janome.com/index.cfm/Machines/Accessories/All/Extra_Large_Foot_Controller

 

Julie in TX


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2890 / Virus Database: 2639/6054 - Release Date: 01/24/13


Extra large foot control

Julie
 

I love this extra large foot control for Janome machines.  I am using it with the MC12000 and it’s wonderful.  It doesn’t slip and slide around and I’m very happy Janome thought of this.  I think it might fit most Janome machines that are computerized.

 

http://content.janome.com/index.cfm/Machines/Accessories/All/Extra_Large_Foot_Controller

 

Julie in TX


Is there any way to get a viking ankle to work on Janome

nursetracy79 <nursetracy79@...>
 

I have had a viking D1 for many years so I have lots of feet. I was wondering if anyone out there had figured out how to get a viking ankle to work on this machine, it seems like it wouldn't line up correctly. If anyone has done this or has any ideas I would appreciate it.

Tracy in WY


Re: acufil kit review

Donna Morton
 

I use MBX and the Acufil program hand in hand as well, just as Virginia explains.  One template, with the quilting design in the centre of the hoop and measurements for marking down the length of a border all evenly spaced. 
 
The two programs together make things much easier. 
 
Donna M
Canada
 
Donna M
Canada

Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 4:11 PM
Subject: Re: [janome12000] Re: acufil kit review
 
 

I do own MBX and the reason I love the Acufil is because of the calculating part of the program as well as being able to know the number of hoopings and being able to put in my measurements to determine the borders.
 
I find that both MBX and the Acufil program can work hand in hand for me.   If  I choose to do stipple, I can adjust my loop spacing in the MBX and then save as a JEF and import into the quilt program.  That way I am not limited to the stipple designs that default in the quilt program.
 
Last but most least I love the 8,7 X 8.7 sewing area in the quilting hoop.  I also use it for a lot of my embroidering and do not waste as much stabilizer as I do using the larger hoops in the 12,000 when I do not need to.
 
I love quilting, but I am an in the hoop quilter and most of my quilts I do with the Hoopsisters designs.  I finish the quilts with my own borders and in the hoop.  Not being or feeling comfortable with free motion I guess I depend on the program more than others do.
 
Virginia
 
In a message dated 1/23/2013 5:34:40 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, gbmko@... writes:
 

Dear Virginia,
Thank you for the suggestion, but I did read the help files completely, and if need be, could design a wonderful quilt pattern with the program to "highlight" its features, but it is way too limiting. I do not design my quilts based on the limitations of a software program, but decide on the designs and expect to be able to recreate it in my software , in the size, etc, I desire.

do you by chance own MBX, and if so , could you explaind why you would use the acufil over MBX? I still see no reason to ever use the acufil software.

But I do like the hoop! Wish it was an option to have bought without paying for the software.

--- In mailto:janome12000%40yahoogroups.com, Fmjfrazier@... wrote:
>
> The help files in the program do give you a few more options. I think if
> you copy them off and work with each section of the program individually you
> may change your mind. I do love the program although I will admit it
> takes some getting used to, remembering that the designs do have to keep
> within the 8.7 sewing area from there may help.
>
> Virginia
>
>
> In a message dated 1/23/2013 12:11:56 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> gbmko@... writes:
>
>
>
>
> I finally made time to check out the software that came with the acufil
> kit. I bought it mostly because I wanted the hoop, which I really like, but
> wasn't convinced I'd need/like the software, as I have MBX. Unless I am
> totally missing something (quite possible!), I was right. I decided to use the
> stippling designs (the ones with quilted designs in the middle, and
> stippling around them) in my blank squares, and some version of stippling in the
> patterned squares for a wall hanging that has 7 1/2 inch blocks.So I put in
> the dimensions, and as I kept hearing how the software automatically
> adjusted a design to the space, I thought it would fill up the 7 1/2 square.
> Wrong! The design is only 4 1/2 inches, and can only be sized up or down 10%, so
> it was a stippled design surrounded by empty space within the embroidable
> area, which would look goofy if I tried to fill it with motifs. Even if you
> stamped motifs, what kind of nightmare of jump stitches would it cr eate,
> with out the option of digitizing connecting run lines for a more realistic
> quilting look? At first I thought there was something wrong with my
> printer, but no, it was true to size. The minimum "border" width you can plug in
> is 4 inches, but that doesn't mean the design fills that whole border! When
> I printed the template for what I chose, it was 2 inches wide. Also, there
> is no way to preview what the designs look like across the whole project,
> with the borders, etc. If there is, I couldn't find it, and Nancy didn't
> demo it in the webinar. (Which you can view by going to the US Janome
> website, project center, projects, webinars). I am VERY disappointed in the
> software. Unless you want to stipple the whole quilt,I don't find it useful at
> all, unless you design a quilt around the size and option of what the
> software gives you. (Even then, the designs are not created to "connect" to give
> you that never ending, never crossing patte rn of traditional stippling.
> they are all closed designs.) I even tried bringing the designs into MBX to
> resize, but as they are not JAN files, the result was awful, with up to 6 mm
> stitch lengths, which I couldn't change because of how the software
> interpreted the stitch file. I must admit I didn't try easy edit, but it would be
> easier and quicker, I'm sure to re-digitze than edit all those stitches. On
> the demo, even with the calculations, sometimes the software would say how
> much of an area would not be covered, and is that ok...so not very useful.
> Easily adjusted to an exact size in MBX, if working with a JAN file. Why
> couldn't the files be JAN instead of JPX? And I must admit I was hoping that
> the software was a true quilting program. If I'm missing something, please
> educate me. I'm willing to give it another shot, and another review. Right
> now, I like the hoop, but not the software. Barbara Jen
>


Re: Velcro and embroidering

suemonin
 

embroider a patch and sew the patch to the velcro, easy peasy


On Wed, Jan 23, 2013 at 7:49 PM, darlaineep <darlaine@...> wrote:
 

Has anyone embroidered a name on velcro? My husband has a computer bag and a velcro strip that comes off and he wants his name on it. Thanks

Darlaine




--
check out my website at
www.kidsstuffofwny.com


Re: embroidering on leather

busybee1115 <jeannette.rick.freese@...>
 

Yes, I used a leather needle and the design was with filled stitches but not really really dense if that makes sense.

--- In janome12000@..., "turcotte37" wrote:

Did you use a leather needle and also was it a design withfilled stitches? I am looking to embroider on leather handmade baby shoes. Thanks

--- In janome12000@..., "busybee1115" wrote:

Yes I embroidered on tanned moose hide. Worked nicely.



--- In janome12000@..., "turcotte37" wrote:

Has anyone tried embroidering on leather. Was it succesful?


Re: Embf folder and other dislikes

vicki chrobak
 

Thank you Frieda.  Guess I missed it, duh on me!  May have to do a design later so I can learn to look there.
Vicki Jo

On 1/24/2013 12:06 PM, freida wrote:


"One thing I do miss on the 12000 is the stitch count & following the progress on the machine

There is a stitch count on the 12000 - it is the window that is between the - and + signs on your screen.  It shows what stitch you are own/total number of stitches in the design.
-- 
Freida Doubts
Sew E-Z



Re: Embf folder and other dislikes

Freida Doubts
 

"One thing I do miss on the 12000 is the stitch count & following the progress on the machine

There is a stitch count on the 12000 - it is the window that is between the - and + signs on your screen.  It shows what stitch you are own/total number of stitches in the design.
-- 
Freida Doubts
Sew E-Z


Re: Embf folder and other dislikes

tzfardaha
 

I found that unless I put something in the embroidery folder, Janome wouldn't read it. But folders inside the emb folders work as long as the folder has a single word name.


Re: Embf folder and other dislikes

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

Folders made inside EmbF will not be visible. They have to be inside EMB.

--- In janome12000@..., Mary Jane Weddle wrote:

Barbara, you can make individual folders inside the Embf folder for each
set of designs. I have several sets on my USB disc and I just go to that
folder to open the set of designs I want to use.
Mary Jane

On Wed, Jan 23, 2013 at 10:19 PM, bbathe46 wrote:

**


Hi,
I have the Janome 12000 plus the Designer Diamond Deluxe and a Brother 10
needle machine. What I don't like about the Janome is that you have to put
all the designs in the Embf folder to stich them out and you can't make
individual folders to organize them. Maybe I'm missing something but I
recent put lots if designs on a stick and each time I went back to pick
another design to stitch out, it took forever for the machine to read the
USB stick. On my Viking and Brother, I can create folders and put the
designs in each folder and the machines will read them. Also I find that
when I bring the designs up in the touch screen of the Janome they are hard
to see clearly. My designer shows them much clearer in a 3D view. I find
the screen in general to be far inferior to the screens of my other TOL
machines.
I do like the embroidery arm and the way that it folds up out of the way
but don't care for the hoops. I find it practically impossible to hoop the
fabric tightly no matter what I do. Like many of you, I wish that there was
a mid-sized hoop.
Any suggestions on how to organize the designs on the stick so that it
works more efficiently? At this point I am really thinking of selling the
machine. Thanks for letting my vent.
Barbara



Re: embroidering on leather

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

Point and match. Well played!

--- In janome12000@..., "busybee1115" wrote:


No but the man who is wearing the gaunlets is pretty happy

--- In janome12000@..., "Jim_Stutsman" wrote:

I understand the moose was quite upset because the embroidered design was a target symbol.

--- In janome12000@..., "busybee1115" wrote:

Yes I embroidered on tanned moose hide. Worked nicely.



--- In janome12000@..., "turcotte37" wrote:

Has anyone tried embroidering on leather. Was it succesful?


Re: Parallels

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

I've run into this problem with VMware Fusion as well, and it's 100% a Windows problem. To prevent piracy Microsoft uses a very complex system called "Windows Product Activation". When you first install Windows (XP or later), a very long number is derived from complex calculations involving the serial number of your CPU chip, the hard drive, amount of memory, network card(s) and other items that only Microsoft knows. Each and every time you boot up this number is recalculated and compared with the previous one. If it differs by too much, then you will receive a message that Windows needs to be activated. Until you do go through this "activation" process, you will be told that your copy of Windows is not legitimate. After 3 days it will stop functioning. You are allowed 2 activations online. Then you will be offered the option of calling and going through the mess that you experienced.

The underlying cause is that each time the virtual environment upgrades (Parallels or Fusion), the virtual machine changes too. That's what triggers Windows to think that the computer has changed, and that you are running it on a different computer, i.e. piracy. Fusion has modified the way it handles VMs. After a Fusion update, when I open a virtual machine it asks whether I want to upgrade it. With Windows 7, a "Yes" answer always triggers the activation warning. Fortunately I keep backups of all my virtual machines, so it's easy to go back to the original and answer "No" to the upgrade question.

Once again Microsoft proves that copy protection hurts the paying customers more than the pirates, and their cavalier attitude of blaming Apple reinforces our reason for moving to the Mac in the first place. This problem will affect all Parallels users with Windows 7, so you should go to the Parallels forums and read the posts there. With a lot of people being affected, it's likely that someone has found a work-around.

--- In janome12000@..., "vestacheatham" wrote:

I updated my Parallels Desktop 8 for Mac today....and then my Windows 7 popped up saying it wasn't a legit program. I tried to re-install Windows...but it won't....I suspect 'cause it comes up as already installed. I called Microsoft, and after 30 min. Waiting and being sent to 3 different people...I was told Apple would have to fix the problem. I argued but to no avail. Lo and behold Apple said just what I expected - we don't have any way to fix a problem with Windows.

I see others are using Mac with Parallels....any suggestions?


Re: Embf folder and other dislikes

Vikki Youngmeyer
 

Jim addressed your question about the file issue. As for hooping the fabric, I don’t. I hoop  the stabilizer which I lightly spray with a quilt basting spray. I may add a couple of pins if the fabric is thick such as toweling. I have not had any problems with either the 12000 or the 350E just hooping the stabilizer and floating the fabric. YMMV.

 

Vikki

Houston, TX