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Re: Please help

Jim Stutsman
 

I have downloaded your video, then deleted it as it makes a big hit to the limited amount of storage we have for the group. What's happening is that either the bobbin case, or the metal hook race it sits on have been damaged. Most of the time this is due to a needle strike. The needle breaks, but before it does it leaves scars. Remove the bobbin case and inspect it carefully in bright light, top AND bottom. Look for holes, bumps, scratches, or in some case outright gouges in the side on the bottom. If it has no damage get a magnifying glass and inspect the hook race with the bobbin case OUT. Turn the wheel slowly and look at that narrow metal rim that the bobbin case is perched on. Any nicks, scratches, or pits could cause this problem. Finally look at the white plastic piece at the bottom of the hook race. You'll see a small hole in the center and what looks like lint. DON'T PULL IT OUT! It's an oil wick. If that piece is badly scratched or broken it can cause the bobbin case to stick. That's what is happening - as the hook race turns, the bobbin case is suppose to hit that little spring to the left of the red arrow on that metal stopper. It should just lightly push the spring, but in your case it's ramming up against it. That means the bobbin case is not sliding on the hook race like it should.

If the bobbin case is lightly damaged you may be able to buff it down with an emery board to smooth it out. It must be absolutely smooth, top and bottom. If you put your finger on the bobbin case and lightly turn the wheel you'll feel it twitch when the problem spot is hit. If the bobbin case is damaged you should ultimately get a new one. If it's OK, but the hook race is damaged, you'll need dealer help. Janome has a tool that your dealer may have, or can order, called OILSTONE. It's a polishing stone that fits in the hook race for smoothing it out. Hope this helps!


Please help

Therese Kaun
 

I have the Jenome 6500 Memory Craft.
 
It started to have issues with the bobbin popping up and or making noise when sewing.
 
I have attached a video without thread in it and it still does this.
 
Things I have done.
1. Validated that bobbin is in correctly. 
2. Used a new bobbin.
3. Reused the current bobbin, but rethreaded. 
4. Adjusted the top tension
5. Taken apart and cleaned.
6. Repeated steps above.
 
Video attached 
Please advise, thank you so very much.
 
Therese


Re: noise from bobbin area on e500 Machine

Roberta K
 

Pixey,

I have the same problem on my 500e. Thank you for the suggestion to do “one stitch and stop” because I have encountered too many designs that have many color changes in a small area, which makes the thread nest problem even worse. I will definitely try it and give feedback.

Roberta in FL


Re: noise from bobbin area on e500 Machine

Pixey
 

Kathy,
In response to your other question about the auto cut and thread tail blobs on the bottom underside.  I have experienced this as well whenever I used the auto cut on any of my Janome machines.  

Others may have advice they can offer, but I have found two ways to address it.  One is to turn off the automatic jump stitch cutting and cut the jump stitches manually.  The other is to turn on the one-stitch stop feature.  If I am remembering correctly, it will take one stitch and stop after it has done a thread cut and then you can pull the bobbin thread to the top and pull out a longer tail and hold it to the top.  Changing the setting on the jump stitch length has no effect on the tail left from cutting, it just changes the criteria for when it will auto-cut the jump stitch.

Pixey


On Jan 12, 2021, at 5:44 PM, Kathy Strabel <ksbappa@...> wrote:

Hello Janome users---With the crummy weather, I have had more time to do embroidery and I have run into a problem that I have not found an answer to. Jim S. offered me some good advice and I think what he said fixed the problem, but not comletely. I am getting random small "blobs" of thread on the underside of my projects. Jim's advice about the needle possibly re-entering a previous hole and causing skipped stitches, made sense for the specific design I was working at the time. Now another design is doing that as well. I will hear some rattling sounds coming from the bobbin area when the stitches go awry. So, I thought maybe it was backspin on the bobbin. So I hooped 2 layers of Heat N Gone (because it is clear, and I can see the bobbin as it sews).  I ran the same design directly on the Heat N Gone, with the same thread and everything else the same except, of course no cloth blocking my view of the bobbin. I put a mark on the same clear plastic pre-filled bobbin, so I could judge when/if it acted up while stitching. It did not exhibit any backspin, but would frequently "jiggle" at times.   Do I need a new bobbin case? I have examined the case with magnifying glasses and by feeling around inside and outside of it and I have not found any cracks, burrs, scratches, etc, but maybe something is amiss? I am using the yellow dot bobbin holder that came with the machine, and 40 wt embroidery thread.  I have never used the red dot bobbin holder for this machine--I believe one came with it--but I understand it is for use with Janome brand threads. Who makes Janome brand thread? I have never seen it for sale anywhere, and what is the difference between Janome and , say, Floriani threads which I use mostly.

Another problem I am seeing is that when the needle advances to the next color, there is about a 2" thread tail that the needle plunges down into the fabric, then makes a few anchoring stitches and then goes on to complete that color. At the beginning of the color block, there is always a "bubble" or a blob of tangled threads on the back side--I assume it is that 2" piece. I have set the jump stitch cut length to 2 clicks below the default, but the thread tail remains at 2" or so. Just enough to make that ugly blob on the back side. Not a problem if the back side won't be seen, but when stitching directly on tea towels,  pillowcases, etc. you want the back to be as pristine as the front. Both of these things I mention are rather new, I have had the machine for 2 years or so and have cleaned/oiled her religiously. 
Comments, anyone??     Be safe and healthy out there!!!  
Kathy S. Camas WA


Re: noise from bobbin area on e500 Machine

Kathy Strabel
 

JIm--Thank you for your quick response. I shall inspect the race/hook and needle hole in the plate  carefully under magnification, and try the red dot bobbin case to see if any of those things is the culprit in the jiggling of the bobbin  in the bobbin holder.. I will post any new findings, but due to my available time, it may be a few days before I can get back to my embroidery machine.  THanks so much for your clear and concise information.   Kathy S.   Camas WA


Re: noise from bobbin area on e500 Machine

Jim Stutsman
 

Nicks, scratches, and gouges in the bobbin case can definitely cause the “bouncing bobbin” phenomenon. It can also happen if there is damage to the hook race that the bobbin case sits in. Remove the needle plate and bobbin case. Use a bright light and magnification and look closely for damage. The thin rim around the edges of the hook race must be absolutely smooth and shiny. When sewing, the needle thread wraps all the way around the bobbin case between the hook race and the bobbin case. Any scratches, nicks, or damage can cause it to catch and make the bobbin case jerk. The bobbin will bounce as well. Another place that can cause this is the hole in the needle plate. If a needle breaks it may scar the edge of the hole, again causing problems.

The red dot bobbin case can be used with all threads. The yellow dot case is only needed if you are getting bobbin showing with the red dot case. The red dot is calibrated to Janome bobbin thread. Some other bobbin threads are thinner, especially the commercial ones. That’s why the yellow dot case was created, but you should certainly try the red dot to see if it behaves the same. If it does, then it’s likely hook race damage. There is a tool (Janome part #OILSTONE) that dealers can use to buff out damage, but you will probably need your dealer to see the machine. If you don’t have a problem with the red case the yellow dot one may be damaged. If you don’t get bobbin thread showing with the red dot, just use that.


noise from bobbin area on e500 Machine

Kathy Strabel
 

Hello Janome users---With the crummy weather, I have had more time to do embroidery and I have run into a problem that I have not found an answer to. Jim S. offered me some good advice and I think what he said fixed the problem, but not comletely. I am getting random small "blobs" of thread on the underside of my projects. Jim's advice about the needle possibly re-entering a previous hole and causing skipped stitches, made sense for the specific design I was working at the time. Now another design is doing that as well. I will hear some rattling sounds coming from the bobbin area when the stitches go awry. So, I thought maybe it was backspin on the bobbin. So I hooped 2 layers of Heat N Gone (because it is clear, and I can see the bobbin as it sews).  I ran the same design directly on the Heat N Gone, with the same thread and everything else the same except, of course no cloth blocking my view of the bobbin. I put a mark on the same clear plastic pre-filled bobbin, so I could judge when/if it acted up while stitching. It did not exhibit any backspin, but would frequently "jiggle" at times.   Do I need a new bobbin case? I have examined the case with magnifying glasses and by feeling around inside and outside of it and I have not found any cracks, burrs, scratches, etc, but maybe something is amiss? I am using the yellow dot bobbin holder that came with the machine, and 40 wt embroidery thread.  I have never used the red dot bobbin holder for this machine--I believe one came with it--but I understand it is for use with Janome brand threads. Who makes Janome brand thread? I have never seen it for sale anywhere, and what is the difference between Janome and , say, Floriani threads which I use mostly.

Another problem I am seeing is that when the needle advances to the next color, there is about a 2" thread tail that the needle plunges down into the fabric, then makes a few anchoring stitches and then goes on to complete that color. At the beginning of the color block, there is always a "bubble" or a blob of tangled threads on the back side--I assume it is that 2" piece. I have set the jump stitch cut length to 2 clicks below the default, but the thread tail remains at 2" or so. Just enough to make that ugly blob on the back side. Not a problem if the back side won't be seen, but when stitching directly on tea towels,  pillowcases, etc. you want the back to be as pristine as the front. Both of these things I mention are rather new, I have had the machine for 2 years or so and have cleaned/oiled her religiously. 
Comments, anyone??     Be safe and healthy out there!!!  
Kathy S. Camas WA


Re: Testing needle wear

Pixey
 

Thanks Sally.  This is helpful...and yes, the childproof medical bottles are great for securing and disposing of worn out needles and pins.

Pixey


On Jan 11, 2021, at 6:31 PM, Sally on the WE(s)T Side <1328whitman@...> wrote:


Pixey, my standard tests:
1. does it make a popping sound when it hits the fabric
2. does it shred the thread
3. does it leave a cut or visible hole
4. can you feel a rough spot on the tip or does it snag a piece of nylon stocking or other similar fabric
If the answer is yes to any of the above, then put it in an old medicine bottle with a child-proof lid to be disposed of properly.  Otherwise you can use them.  You can use some questionable needles to make paper fold lines in computer printed patterns (lengthen the stitch and don't use thread) and for decorating cards with stitched designs.  

Sally, who has a pincushion full of machine needles

Sally


Re: Testing needle wear

Sally on the WE(s)T Side
 

Pixey, my standard tests:
1. does it make a popping sound when it hits the fabric
2. does it shred the thread
3. does it leave a cut or visible hole
4. can you feel a rough spot on the tip or does it snag a piece of nylon stocking or other similar fabric
If the answer is yes to any of the above, then put it in an old medicine bottle with a child-proof lid to be disposed of properly.  Otherwise you can use them.  You can use some questionable needles to make paper fold lines in computer printed patterns (lengthen the stitch and don't use thread) and for decorating cards with stitched designs.  

Sally, who has a pincushion full of machine needles

Sally 

On Mon, Jan 11, 2021 at 3:41 PM Pixey via groups.io <pixeyam=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
I have been getting my sewing room back in order and unearthed 3 different pincushions where I had stashed gently used needles.  This was usually from where I had done a small project (not enough to wear out the needle) but the next project needed a different needle but I kept forgetting to go back to the slightly used one.  Most of the needles are blue tip and purple tip, with a couple of red tips and Organ Topstitch needles thrown in as well.

Does anyone have a good test or tips for determining needle wear that I could use to get a sense of how worn out these needles actually are? Unfortunately, my recollection of what I might have actually used them for is nonexistent.

Thanks,
Pixey







--


Testing needle wear

Pixey
 

I have been getting my sewing room back in order and unearthed 3 different pincushions where I had stashed gently used needles. This was usually from where I had done a small project (not enough to wear out the needle) but the next project needed a different needle but I kept forgetting to go back to the slightly used one. Most of the needles are blue tip and purple tip, with a couple of red tips and Organ Topstitch needles thrown in as well.

Does anyone have a good test or tips for determining needle wear that I could use to get a sense of how worn out these needles actually are? Unfortunately, my recollection of what I might have actually used them for is nonexistent.

Thanks,
Pixey


Re: Janome 8050

Lindsey Palmer
 

There is one on eBay for $100.

On Jan 11, 2021, at 7:19 AM, Debbie <dprice@mcloudteleco.com> wrote:

Janome 8050


Re: 12000 question

Joyce Daniel
 

Good to know re: "cold" as this screen blinking has only happened one other time and I thought it was due to too much on my usb, but I took everything off except for this 55,000 stitch, 35 color design and it still blinks a little, but it is cold here in GA. Brrrr. Guess I need another space heater going.


Re: 12000 - thread numbers/

Joyce Daniel
 

78 different thread colors? Holy Molies!! I was having a hard time putting 35 together. Thanks for the info Jim.
On another note, I showed my husband the design I was doing and he asked "do you have 35 different colors of thread?" Hmmmmm.......maybe.......


Janome 8050

Debbie
 

ISO a Janome 8050 sewing machine.


Re: Artistic Digitizer 1.5 upgrade

Anne Hein DE
 

Cheryl
If you scroll down the page look for artistic digitizer  installation for those with out a dvd drive that’s where the update download is located for both Mac and pc. 

Anne in DE


Re: Artistic Digitizer 1.5 upgrade

Cheryl Paul
 

I’ve got Artistic Digitizer on a MacBook Pro and I just did the update install from the program and it seems to have worked just fine. I went to the Janome Global Website and there is no option to download the software that I could find. Am I missing something?

I could have used my Windows Program for the program, but decided to use the MacBook instead of loading it with the rest of my Windows programs on my MacBook. I’m not sure if the program works the same in both platforms, but it would be interesting to know why the program would need to be installed or removed before the update can work.

Cheryl - Saskatoon


Re: 12000 question

Jim Stutsman
 

The answer to your question may be in your signature. Cold can make the touch screen do some weird things. It's very unlikely that the stitch count of a design would cause the software to do that. It's pretty much either going to accept a design or reject it totally if the stitch count exceeds 100,000 (12000) or 200,000 (15000). 


12000 question

Joyce Daniel
 

I have about 5 designs loaded on a USB stick, several have a high stitch count.
As I am embroidering one of these heavy stitch count/35 color change designs, the screen of my 12000 semi flickers between stitchings. Is this a weird idiosyncrasy of this machine or too much in the USB to "read" or ?
I've only had this one other time and decided to ask the pros finally, for your input. :)
Thanks!! Joyce in brrrr GA


Re: 12000 - thread numbers/

favymtz
 

On the 12000 you're mostly limited to the amount of stitches in a design, which is 100,000.

--
Favymtz


Re: 12000 - thread numbers/

Jim Stutsman
 

In the original JEF format it was 78. This coincides with the number of thread colors in the original Janome thread boxes 1, 2, and 3. I believe the JPX format increased the number to 100, maybe even 200. It's been a number of years since I looked at that, and I have slept since then.

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