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Re: reading a USB?

favymtz
 


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Favymtz


Re: reading a USB?

favymtz
 

The stitch limit for the Janome 300 is 64,000 stitches per design.
As has been commented on already, the design must be in the proper folder for the machine to access the design.
On the older machines it's also important to use the smaller capacity usb. In my experience it's not as important in the newer machines.
Use the size recommended for your machine, but I have used a 32g in my 15000 with no problems, but I don't put lots of stuff on the usb, because the more one there, the slower it will be to access.
I recently taught the beginner class and a student was working on an 11K, we couldn't get it to use a usb larger than the 8g.
I'm sure that the 300e is going to be similar.
--
Favymtz


Re: reading a USB?

Cheryl Paul
 

On a 350E embroidery machine you can use a 2GB USB but whatever you do don’t put lots of designs on it. The processor in our embroidery machines isn’t very powerful as it doesn’t need to be to do the job. Remember to format the USB in your 350 before you use it and that you put your designs in the correct folder. I never had a 350E machine so I’m not sure of the folder names but I do know that the first folder is EMB and the next one will be My Designs, or embf, but you can create one with a name you choose up to 8 letters or numbers and your designs must be in JEF format for the machine to be able to read them.

I know that some use larger memory USB’s and they work, but I don’t recommend that. I also know that finding the small memory USB’s is difficult, but you may be able to find some on-line and hopefully at a very reasonable price.

I suggest that the USB you are using be re-formatted in your computer, BUT save any files you want to keep before you format or they will be lost forever. Once you do this format, put the USB into your 350 machine and it will apply the folders that are required to transfer/copy your designs into for stitching. Once you get this working, use it for stitching, but do file management so that you never get to many designs on the USB - 100 designs would be plenty or even more than I would want to manage in a device that I use for just embroidery.

Cheryl - Saskatoon


Re: reading a USB?

Jim Stutsman
 

Your problem is due to your machines looking for designs in different places. On the 12000 designs are stored in folders inside the EMB master folder. However the 350E, as a descendant of the 10000, used EmbF5 as the master folder, with designs being stored in subfolder within that. The default folder on the 12000 is EMB\EmbF. On the 350E it's EmbF5\MyDesign. Since your USB stick is 1GB you could just put designs in both folders to make it work on both machines.


Re: reading a USB?

Joyce Daniel
 

Thanks for the info. The USB I’m trying to us is 1 GB and the 6 designs are all in the correct folder. The stick was formatted for the 350 and my 12000. They show up on my computer but do not show up on the 350 screen. (Didn’t try the 12000 as they are all 5x7 designs and its easier on the 350) I transferred the designs from the 1 GB stick to the 512M USB I usually use, and they still do not show up on the 350 screen, so I’m thinking, too many stitches. Which is what I’m wondering…..what is the max # of stitches the Janomes machines can handle? Is there a chart somewhere? I’m going to try one design loaded on the stick, at a time as they each have a high stitch count. Just never had this before.

Confused in GA - Joyce

 

 

“All you have shall some day be given;

Therefore, give now, that the season

of giving may be yours, and not

of your inheritors.”

Kahill Gibran

 


Re: reading a USB?

Lyn Quine
 

what size is the USB, they recommend no bigger than 2GB  SSH don’t tell anyone but I have used put to 8GB but on with a few designs on it, the machine doesn’t have the brain of a computer, if it’s too big or too many designs on the USB it will be very slow to open.  The machine has to read all the designs in the Mu Design folder before showing them.  


Did you format the USB on the machine before loading the designs? If you did, have you placed the designs in the folder called my designs, is the design file in there or is it in a folder in the My Design folder?  The machine won’t read a design if it’s to big for the selected hoop, the stitch count is too high, not the right format or if a stitch or stitches are outside the stitch area of the hoop.

lots of questions sorry but there’s more than one reason why a machine doesn’t read files.


reading a USB?

Joyce Daniel
 

Is there a chart somewhere that tells what the max that a USB can read on a Janome machine ?

I have a 350. I have a USB with 6 designs that do not “load” on the machine. Wondering if the stitch count is too much?

TIA! Joyce

 

Happiness cannot be traveled to,

owned, earned, or worn.

It is the spiritual experience of living

every minute with love, grace & gratitude.”

and giving full credit for blessings from our Lord

- Denis Waitley

 

**All lives matter to God, and should also, to each of us.

 


Re: Now Hump Jumper

Ceil J
 

Nancy,
I still had my MC (New Home) 6000 from the late 80's and I was not about to lug that or my 15000 to a sewing class.  (Gave it to my daughter now.)  My dealer suggested the M7050.  While it is only 7mm, it has an auto thread cutter and push button running.  I love it.  It's light but very powerful (as he said it would be) and I've had no trouble going over thick seams in masks.  It surprised me as I usually use a mechanical machine (heavy in weight) for straight stitch sewing.  But this little machine is a real champ.  The only problem I have with it is that the presser foot has to be put down manually.  Not really a problem but I constantly forget to do it and then the machine beeps at me.  I never have named my machines but I do find myself apologizing to this one.  It's actually funny.
Ceil


On Sat, Apr 4, 2020 at 8:44 AM Nancy Graham <nups@...> wrote:

Thanks Tracy for the link to the hump jumper. A wonderful demonstration and explanation of using it. This will help greatly while I am making face masks in the corner where the elastic is attached.

 

Also thanks for the explanation between high and low shanks on Janome. That explains why I have 1 low and 2 high shank Janomes. The 2 highs are embroidery machines. Unfortunately, though, the feet are not interchangeable. The newest one I have, the Skyline 9 has a wider foot than my older Memory Craft. I don’t know why Janome did that. That’s one reason of the reasons, I decided to get another Janome when I bought the S9. Very disappointed in that and a few other things. My old Memory Craft is a great machine. Silly me, I thought a new machine with the auto cutter and easily removeable stitch plate would be worth plopping down $3500. Not!

 

Nancy


Re: Having trouble with the hand look stitches on denim on my 15000

Ceil J
 

Thanks for the suggestions.  I think the problem is mostly the denim fabric but I will try all of these suggestions next week when I can get back to it.  When I first brought my machine home I stitched out most of the designs and was amazed at the great results with these stitches.  But that was with cotton and stabilizer.  I even tried it again on that same piece of fabric and can't get the same results.  At the time I knew very little about my machine and used nothing special in the way of thread.  I think I'll also check to see if I can adjust the tension successfully on other stitches.  Maybe it's somehow stuck in the middle.  I think I may even try some of the old invisible thread that I have.  I guess it's possible that I used that originally but it looks like I just used white bobbin thread.  Unfortunately I should have stitched out the stitches with black on top and white in the bobbin but I used all white.  Someday I'll try them all again..  Thanks again.
Ceil


Re: Was Hump Jumper Now Janome feet

Andrea LaVergne
 

Nancy, I have both high shank and low shank "feet" for my Janome machines.  My low shank machines are 5mm and 7mm while my high shank is 9mm.  I can use my 5mm & 7mm accessory feet that do not have a "shank" on them by using a shank that was for the Janome 11,000.  You do have to check your feet to make sure that they ride on the feed dogs correctly,  When using the narrower feet you also have to make sure the stitches you use are no wider than the needle hole!  This doesn't work if you are mixing feet from a machine with a front loading bobbin with feet from a machine with a top loading bobbin.  One of my favorite feet it the B foot that hasn't been made for decades, but I kept it and have used it with all of my Janome machines, no matter the stitch width!


Re: Now Hump Jumper

Nancy Graham
 

Thanks Tracy for the link to the hump jumper. A wonderful demonstration and explanation of using it. This will help greatly while I am making face masks in the corner where the elastic is attached.

 

Also thanks for the explanation between high and low shanks on Janome. That explains why I have 1 low and 2 high shank Janomes. The 2 highs are embroidery machines. Unfortunately, though, the feet are not interchangeable. The newest one I have, the Skyline 9 has a wider foot than my older Memory Craft. I don’t know why Janome did that. That’s one reason of the reasons, I decided to get another Janome when I bought the S9. Very disappointed in that and a few other things. My old Memory Craft is a great machine. Silly me, I thought a new machine with the auto cutter and easily removeable stitch plate would be worth plopping down $3500. Not!

 

Nancy


Re: Having trouble with the hand look stitches on denim on my 15000

blue_lak
 

Mulling this over more, I do recall trying both Bottom Line and Monopoly before trying Microquilter. Bottom Line was a little thicker than I wanted to show, and the Monopoly pulled the bobbin thread up some but not completely. Since Monopoly is a single strand of fiber rather plied filaments, it's not as flexible. It also may be susceptible to stretching.
Jan


Re: Having trouble with the hand look stitches on denim on my 15000

valora hammond
 

I like to use my walking foot and a large 16-17 needle. And the thinner of the threads - I usually use embroidery thread.  


On Apr 3, 2020, at 7:25 PM, blue_lak via groups.io <blue_lak@...> wrote:

My notes  on when I used it for quilting with my 12000:
Blue bobbin case
50 wt cotton in bobbin
100# Microquilter poly (Superior's) on top
HL stitch #1
SL 2.7
TT 9.6 
FP auto
80/20 batting
There's no mention of a particular needle, so I assume I must have used my usual for quilting: Schmetz Quilting #14
Hope it helps,
Jan


Re: Having trouble with the hand look stitches on denim on my 15000

blue_lak
 

My notes  on when I used it for quilting with my 12000:
Blue bobbin case
50 wt cotton in bobbin
100# Microquilter poly (Superior's) on top
HL stitch #1
SL 2.7
TT 9.6 
FP auto
80/20 batting
There's no mention of a particular needle, so I assume I must have used my usual for quilting: Schmetz Quilting #14
Hope it helps,
Jan


Having trouble with the hand look stitches on denim on my 15000

Ceil J
 

I seem to be doing something wrong but can't figure out what it is.   My tension seems fine for regular sewing.  When I try to use the hand-look stitches with Superior's Mono poly on the top and anywhere from 50-30 wt in the bobbin, I can't get the bobbin thread to pull to the top.  I have adjusted my top tension up to 10 and am using the blue dot case after also trying the red but that isn't making much of a difference.  I am going at the slowest speed.  If I use stabilizer backed quilting cotton I get an almost okay result but nothing seems to work well.  Of course I've cleaned my machine from top to toe, flossed,  and turned it off and on a few times and tried several different needles as well. 
I just tried to work it out on my M7050 which I bought for classes but it's "contour stitch" wouldn't do it either which makes me suspect I'm the problem.
I would appreciate any advice.  Going to my dealer is out of the question due to travel restrictions at this time.
Thanks,
Ceil


Re: Now Hump Jumper

Tami Morgan
 

Oh My Gosh! We learn something new all the time! I never knew what the tool (hump jumper) was or how to use it.  Thank you for sharing!


Sent from my Tami’s iPhone 

On Apr 2, 2020, at 9:08 AM, Tracy <TJOriginals@...> wrote:



Nancy-

Here is a video by the maker of the "orignal" hump jumper.  She shows using it for several different tasks.  

https://www.google.com/search?q=sewing+thick+seams+with+a+hump+jumper&oq=sewing+thick+seams+with+a+hump+jumper&aqs=chrome..69i57.9161j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_jn6FXqjtOoi0tQbd2rqwCA30

 

The jumper that I have is white and flat- only the front part of the one that is shown in the video- with the "slit" in the front and you stitch with this flat piece, just like in the video- then move it to the front when your machine's foot is on top of the "hump".  It's a bit easier to use the V-shaped one as it's easier to grab hold of and I've got one of those too that came with my MC10001.  But I just wanted folks to know that stores also sell one that is flat.

 

Tracy in Nashville, TN


Re: Now Hump Jumper

Diane
 

Thanks so much for this video link.  I knew about using with bulky seams but not with pocket and collar corners!

Diane Bacon

On Thu, Apr 2, 2020 at 6:58 PM Betsy via groups.io <betsypep2000=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
great video thanks for sharing, I have sewn for years and learned to use it in front of the foot as well as behind.
betsy in CA


Re: Now Hump Jumper

Sewhat
 

What video I guess I missed it

Donna Strode


On Thursday, April 2, 2020, 6:58:05 PM EDT, Betsy via groups.io <betsypep2000@...> wrote:


great video thanks for sharing, I have sewn for years and learned to use it in front of the foot as well as behind.
betsy in CA


Re: Questions about 550e

Pixey
 

Beth,

I have found that it does get easier and faster with repetition.  I think for that first oiling, everything is very tight, including the owner.  Plus it is an unfamiliar and for me, a nervous, process.

These days it goes much smoother and faster for me.

Pixey

On Apr 2, 2020, at 5:58 PM, bhoryn via groups.io <bhoryn@...> wrote:

 WOW.      What a job that oiling is.  Good job DH was here to help me.    It took us almost all afternoon and I hope it goes faster and easier the second time through.    Interesting that I got the notice today to clean out the bobbin area.     So Machine is all cleaned and ready to go with a new needle.    

Pixey, this is my first Janome embroidery machine and I wonder if I would have made the purchase if I had realized what a job it is to get it oiled.     

Beth 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

On Thursday, April 2, 2020, 9:08 AM, Pixey via groups.io <pixeyam@...> wrote:

The 500e and the 550e machines (and the HD9) are exceptions to the “Do not oil your Janome machine“ rule. If you look at pages 60-64 of the 550e owner’s manual, you will see the oiling instructions.  There are also a couple of  good YouTube videos to take you through it.  The first time I needed to oil mine, after looking t the pictures in the manual I actually went in to the dealer where I bought the machine and asked him to go over it with me as it requires removing some panels to get to the oil locations.

To be honest, the oiling requirement is the one thing I really dislike about this embroidery machine.  Fortunately, the things that I like about it outweigh this singular irritation.  But it is a big part of the reason I did not upgrade my 500e to a 550e.

Pixey

On Apr 1, 2020, at 8:43 PM, Maria Morrow <mariamorrowquilter@...> wrote:


So I’m kind of surprised to hear about  “oiling”.  I have been told and read countless times that we do not oil our  Janome machines.  I have a little tube called “Janome cleaner”...which actually is quite oily.  But all I use it for is to clean out the bobbin area.

I would really appreciate if you would elaborate on oiling, and where the instructions are. Thanks.

Maria Morrow
Mobile:  985-640-5024

On Apr 1, 2020, at 10:06 AM, Kathy Strabel <ksbappa@...> wrote:

Beth---Be sure that your machine's foot is in the DOWN position when using the auto threader. I have a feeling that is what is making your threader not useable when near the edge of your design.

I throw my used pre-filled bobbins out generally. I do save a few, "in case" I need an extra to refill. However, I cannot comment on whether that is a good idea because I have never had to re-wind a saved bobbin.

As for oiling, I put a reminder on a piece of tape and stuck it to my machine to oil it in the first week of every month----BUT-- the manual suggests this frequency if you use the machine every day, so I adjust the oiling time interval according to how much I estimate I have used the machine in the past month. It is very easy to OVER-OIL the machine and that can cause problems, too.  It also is a bit scary where the manual says to turn the machine so the handwheel rests on the table. USe a folded towel on the table when you do that. AND----if you happen to have a USB stick in the machine---REMOVE it BEFORE you move the machine to its side!!!!   Otherwise, you could possibly "squish" and break the USB stick and/or the USB port on the machine. BEWARE!!

If your machine is sounding louder or different, I would suggest first a good brushing-out with a soft brush, and a vacuum cleaner attachment if you have one of those miniature ones.  Then estimate how much you have actually used your machine in the last month and oil/not oil accordingly. 

Hope this is helpful

Kathy Strabel   Camas WA


Re: Questions about 550e

bhoryn
 

WOW.      What a job that oiling is.  Good job DH was here to help me.    It took us almost all afternoon and I hope it goes faster and easier the second time through.    Interesting that I got the notice today to clean out the bobbin area.     So Machine is all cleaned and ready to go with a new needle.    

Pixey, this is my first Janome embroidery machine and I wonder if I would have made the purchase if I had realized what a job it is to get it oiled.     

On Thursday, April 2, 2020, 9:08 AM, Pixey via groups.io <pixeyam@...> wrote:

The 500e and the 550e machines (and the HD9) are exceptions to the “Do not oil your Janome machine“ rule. If you look at pages 60-64 of the 550e owner’s manual, you will see the oiling instructions.  There are also a couple of  good YouTube videos to take you through it.  The first time I needed to oil mine, after looking t the pictures in the manual I actually went in to the dealer where I bought the machine and asked him to go over it with me as it requires removing some panels to get to the oil locations.

To be honest, the oiling requirement is the one thing I really dislike about this embroidery machine.  Fortunately, the things that I like about it outweigh this singular irritation.  But it is a big part of the reason I did not upgrade my 500e to a 550e.

Pixey

On Apr 1, 2020, at 8:43 PM, Maria Morrow <mariamorrowquilter@...> wrote:


So I’m kind of surprised to hear about  “oiling”.  I have been told and read countless times that we do not oil our  Janome machines.  I have a little tube called “Janome cleaner”...which actually is quite oily.  But all I use it for is to clean out the bobbin area.

I would really appreciate if you would elaborate on oiling, and where the instructions are. Thanks.

Maria Morrow
Mobile:  985-640-5024

On Apr 1, 2020, at 10:06 AM, Kathy Strabel <ksbappa@...> wrote:

Beth---Be sure that your machine's foot is in the DOWN position when using the auto threader. I have a feeling that is what is making your threader not useable when near the edge of your design.

I throw my used pre-filled bobbins out generally. I do save a few, "in case" I need an extra to refill. However, I cannot comment on whether that is a good idea because I have never had to re-wind a saved bobbin.

As for oiling, I put a reminder on a piece of tape and stuck it to my machine to oil it in the first week of every month----BUT-- the manual suggests this frequency if you use the machine every day, so I adjust the oiling time interval according to how much I estimate I have used the machine in the past month. It is very easy to OVER-OIL the machine and that can cause problems, too.  It also is a bit scary where the manual says to turn the machine so the handwheel rests on the table. USe a folded towel on the table when you do that. AND----if you happen to have a USB stick in the machine---REMOVE it BEFORE you move the machine to its side!!!!   Otherwise, you could possibly "squish" and break the USB stick and/or the USB port on the machine. BEWARE!!

If your machine is sounding louder or different, I would suggest first a good brushing-out with a soft brush, and a vacuum cleaner attachment if you have one of those miniature ones.  Then estimate how much you have actually used your machine in the last month and oil/not oil accordingly. 

Hope this is helpful

Kathy Strabel   Camas WA

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