Date   
Re: Janome Skyline 7

Cat - N
 

...if you don't need to get anything from a store 'to' finish it...


- Cat 

Sent from my BlackBerry Z10.
Warning:  The foregoing message is likely a combination of what I meant to say and words the nice machine liked better.
From: Kathy Strabel
Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2020 10:44 AM
To: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io
Reply To: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io
Subject: Re: [onlinesewing-janome] Janome Skyline 7

Yes, the ONLY positive is as you describe.....getting UFOs done!  


On Sat, Mar 21, 2020 at 6:41 AM Jayne Griffith <jaynegriffith@...> wrote:
The ONLY positive with the COVID-19 is that I am now digging through my projects and actually completing some ancient UFO’s. lol. 



--
Have a good one!
Kathy Strabel





Re: Embroidery on MC12000 question

Joyce Daniel
 

another thing I learned on the 12000, that is probably not applicable to the hoop size you are asking about but good to know, is that the 12000 can only handle a design w 100,000 stitches. Bigger than this will not show up on the screen....another, ask me how I know this.....
Joyce in GA where our lake is yellow polka dotted w pollen

Re: Janome Skyline 7

Kathy Strabel
 

Yes, the ONLY positive is as you describe.....getting UFOs done!  


On Sat, Mar 21, 2020 at 6:41 AM Jayne Griffith <jaynegriffith@...> wrote:
The ONLY positive with the COVID-19 is that I am now digging through my projects and actually completing some ancient UFO’s. lol. 



--
Have a good one!
Kathy Strabel




Re: Embroidery on MC12000 question

favymtz
 

Nice project!
Another thing that I sometimes do when the design is too long for the hoop is to rotate it until it does fit. If you don’t have digitizing or editing software, then you’ll have to ask someone who does to do it for you.
The project looks like it has the quilting as part of each block, does it? If so then you won’t be able to rotate it because the perimeter will exceed the hoop limit just like it’s already doing. In that case, in the software delete the quilting, do the quilting on your sewing machine.

--
Favymtz

Re: Janome Skyline 7

Jayne Griffith
 

The ONLY positive with the COVID-19 is that I am now digging through my projects and actually completing some ancient UFO’s. lol. 

Re: Janome Skyline 7

valora hammond
 

When I was using the serger on a curve I found I liked the results when I starched the seam. That might work and just do the starts.

On Mar 20, 2020, at 12:51 PM, Cheryl Paul <capaul@...> wrote:

Pixey, The same thing happens on the 7mm needle plate too - ask me how I know. Also the 5mm. I don’t know if there is a solution or what it could be IF someone in research and development even cares. I’m not being nasty, just saying it as I see it.

We have been given things we’ve asked for as consumers ie: the RE18 hoop, but they didn’t even get that right. We just wanted a hoop that was what was referred to as the 5”X7”. Janome choose to give us a larger size than that, but we weren’t really told that and wanted exactly what we’d had before. I use that hoop a fair bit and the smaller hasn’t caused me any difficulties, but I’ve seen designs that need the 200mm which is 20mm longer than the RE18 offers.

I do hope that if we ask enough when we see our Educators from Janome that it will come through to those who actually develop and make our machines.

Cheryl - Saskatoon

PS: I think I’ll be a “nut case” before this COVID-19 runs its course. Our streets are bare, my kids are closing their store for the near future. I was given the gears by friends for going and putting gas in my van. Other children don’t want us getting our own groceries - the list goes on and on and on.

Re: Janome Skyline 7

blue_lak
 

If I recall correctly from the last swimwear sewing, what worked best was a #11 Schmetz Stretch needle and Sulky Totally Stable Tearaway. I didn't iron it on, just started sewing about an inch onto a strip. Then stopped sewing, lifted the foot, pulled the strip back past the back end of the foot, placed fabric under the foot up to the stitching on the stabilizer, lowered the foot, started back stitching, then forward. I also used a strip of stabilizer at the end, making sure the stabilizer extended past the end of stitching. The smaller needle pierced more easily, and the stabilizer prevented the fabric being eaten by the wide throat plate hole. I didn't have any trouble with skipped stitches.
Jan

Re: Embroidery on MC12000 question

Donna Morton
 

The two blocks you cannot see at your 12000 are too long for your GR Hoop.  Maximum length in the GR hoop is 300 mm.  There is not special hoop for this situation.
 
You need software to split the design so you can then use multi-hooping techniques to stitch out the whole design.  Janome Digitizer MBX or Artistic Digitizer will do that for you.
 
DonnaM
Canada
http://www.snipandstitch.com

Re: Janome Skyline 7

Cheryl Paul
 

Pixey, The same thing happens on the 7mm needle plate too - ask me how I know. Also the 5mm. I don’t know if there is a solution or what it could be IF someone in research and development even cares. I’m not being nasty, just saying it as I see it.

We have been given things we’ve asked for as consumers ie: the RE18 hoop, but they didn’t even get that right. We just wanted a hoop that was what was referred to as the 5”X7”. Janome choose to give us a larger size than that, but we weren’t really told that and wanted exactly what we’d had before. I use that hoop a fair bit and the smaller hasn’t caused me any difficulties, but I’ve seen designs that need the 200mm which is 20mm longer than the RE18 offers.

I do hope that if we ask enough when we see our Educators from Janome that it will come through to those who actually develop and make our machines.

Cheryl - Saskatoon

PS: I think I’ll be a “nut case” before this COVID-19 runs its course. Our streets are bare, my kids are closing their store for the near future. I was given the gears by friends for going and putting gas in my van. Other children don’t want us getting our own groceries - the list goes on and on and on.

Re: Embroidery on MC12000 question

Joyce Daniel
 

Also, there are "pages" on the 12000 screen for the different hoops and you may only be seeing what is on your USB for a smaller hoop. Click the arrow for the next page and your design might be there.
Also, LMK if you need help flipping your design upright as that is something I had to learn by trial and errow.
Joyce in GA who is happily sewing all day long.

Re: Embroidery on MC12000 question

juliadlf.ny@...
 

Here are the hoop sizes in mm as well as inches. It looks like the two you need will not fit. I don't think rotating them will help.
You could reduce the sizes but perhaps that would impact the overall designs. 
Julia
  • GR: 9.1" x 11.8" (230 x 300 mm)
  • SQ23: 9.1" x 9.1" (230 x 230 mm)
  • SQ14: 5.5" x 5.5" (140 x 140 mm)
  • FA10: 3.9" x 1.6" (100 x 40 mm)

Re: Janome Skyline 7

Tracy
 

Kathy,

I understand your frustration!  As I started to read - I thought immediately of having you use "leaders" and "enders"... what you call a starter piece or spiders - and see you are already doing that.  I've got the lightning stitch on my older model Janome and use it often on knits as well.  If your lightning stitch is quite narrow- you might get away with using the straight stitch needle plate.  Adjust the width and hand-turn a few stitches to make sure tho.

What might help: 1) Use a straight stitch in the seam allowance so that if you start on your project - you can backstitch off the edge or onto your starter square/scrap, and then back onto your knit and then change to the lightning stitch for the seam, and end up with a straight stitch at the very end so you can backstitch and stitch off.  2) I think the lightning stitch is one that "dances in place" when you touch the backstitch button.  That being said- if you start off in the seam allowance - it is tying off your thread at the beginning of the seam so you shouldn't have anything fall apart if this is done inside the seam allowance.  Touch the backstitch button at the end of the seam - inside the seam allowance to do the same at that end, letting the machine "dance in place" to tie off the threads.  When the machine does the auto-tie off you do not need to backstitch or hand-tie the thread tails.  3) Start sewing your seam with the fabric actually behind the needle as if you are at the end of the seam.  Stitch just off the edge and raise your presser foot, turn the fabric so that you are then sewing "correctly" down the seam to the bottom.  Stitch just off the edge by 1 stitch, raise the presser foot, turn your fabric around and stitch back onto the fabric to end the seam.  When you are "turning" the fabric, you are not flipping it to the other side, you are keeping it flat and swirling it around so you are going the other direction with the same side of the fabric to the top.  Hope this makes sense.  4) If your leader/ender fabric is butted right up to the knit and you stitch directly from one to the other without a gap in between, I'm not sure how the knit is getting down thru the needle hole.  Hmmm.  I'll have to think on that some and maybe go to my machine to actually see how that could happen.  5) Might I suggest using/buying a serger since it's sooooo much easier to do knits on it!  And other things too.  I do piping/cording, elastic, put in zippers on my serger.  It won't stitch a buttonhole, sew on a button, or do my dishes - but it's lots of fun!  (Trying some levity here so improve things!  .... giggles.  But it really is true you can do lots of things on a serger that people don't know about!)

Tracy in Nashville, TN

Martha Pullen Licensed Educator

Re: Janome Skyline 7

Diane Stutsman
 

If your machine has that stitch in a left needle position, use that. I also use a stretch needle and hold the needle and bobbin threads under the presser foot and to the right. Hope this helps.
Diane

On Mar 19, 2020, at 9:22 PM, Pixey via Groups.Io <pixeyam=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

My theory is that this is happening because the zig zag/decorative stitch hole in the plate has become so large to accommodate the 9mm stitch widths. It creates a larger hole but also pushes the feed dogs that grip and hold the fabric further away from the needle. Compare this to the hole on older 7mm or 5mm machines. This is one reason I really like my older 6600P so much. It is “only” 7mm, but it is much less likely to eat the fabric at the start of the seam.

One technique I use is that I wrap the top and bottom threads around a finger or thumb and hold them taught and at an upward angle at the back as I start to sew. This seems to help keep the starting fabric from going down in the machine those first few stitches.

Pixey
On Mar 19, 2020, at 5:37 PM, Cheryl Paul <capaul@...> wrote:

Kathy,

I hear you! Even my 15000 does that and you know what they cost. I think that it is the way fabric feeds and I know that I have the tendency to start sewing on the first millimetre of fabric that goes into the machine - I say millimetre because it is so small. If I start in about 1/4 of an inch (as a Canadian I should know what that is in metric but I don’t) and then it doesn’t pound down into the needle plate. I just did this on my Continental M7 last week on QUILTING COTTON that was stabilized with Best Press. I know that we need to use the zig-zag plate with everything except the straight stitch or special needle plate for special feet and needle placements, so I don’t think you have any alternative but to just start a little bit into the fabric. I know that friends that have other brands have the same problem, so I think it is just the nature of the beast. Maybe someone else has a different solution - we can hope that there is one.

Cheryl - Saskatoon



Re: Embroidery on MC12000 question

Pixey
 

This is a really neat looking project.  My first guess would be to see if the designs need to be rotated in order to fit in the hoop.  Because the machines will only “find” what will fit as is.  If so, you would need to open it in software on your computer, rotate the design so it will fit in the hoop, save it with a new file name and see if the machine will now see it.

I cannot recall off the top of my head if Horizon Link will let you open it and do that or not.  If not, there are some free and lower cost embroidery editing programs that should handle that step. 

Pixey


On Mar 19, 2020, at 5:08 PM, Sharron Brittingham via Groups.Io <brittisl1018@...> wrote:

Earlier this year I started an embroidery appliqué project with a friend who has Viking machines.  I did several blocks on her Viiking machine.  I also received all the files in .jef format.  I figured out how to do one block on my machine (I had never done this before).  I noticed that despite all the .JEF files being on my flash drive, there are some files (numbered for each block) do not appear on my MC12000.  I've figured out that the files are sorted by which hoop they need.

I have the SQ23, GR, SQ14, FA10 & ASQ22 hoops.

There are 2 blocks I need to do (sized 129mm W x 346mm H) and (131mm W x 332mm H).  The designs for these blocks do not appear on my machine.

Any suggestions on how I can do those blocks on my MC12000?  Is there a specific hoop I need to buy?

Attached is a picture of the pattern I'm trying to do.
<IMG_0916.jpg>

Re: Janome Skyline 7

Pixey
 

My theory is that this is happening because the zig zag/decorative stitch hole in the plate has become so large to accommodate the 9mm stitch widths. It creates a larger hole but also pushes the feed dogs that grip and hold the fabric further away from the needle. Compare this to the hole on older 7mm or 5mm machines. This is one reason I really like my older 6600P so much. It is “only” 7mm, but it is much less likely to eat the fabric at the start of the seam.

One technique I use is that I wrap the top and bottom threads around a finger or thumb and hold them taught and at an upward angle at the back as I start to sew. This seems to help keep the starting fabric from going down in the machine those first few stitches.

Pixey

On Mar 19, 2020, at 5:37 PM, Cheryl Paul <capaul@...> wrote:

Kathy,

I hear you! Even my 15000 does that and you know what they cost. I think that it is the way fabric feeds and I know that I have the tendency to start sewing on the first millimetre of fabric that goes into the machine - I say millimetre because it is so small. If I start in about 1/4 of an inch (as a Canadian I should know what that is in metric but I don’t) and then it doesn’t pound down into the needle plate. I just did this on my Continental M7 last week on QUILTING COTTON that was stabilized with Best Press. I know that we need to use the zig-zag plate with everything except the straight stitch or special needle plate for special feet and needle placements, so I don’t think you have any alternative but to just start a little bit into the fabric. I know that friends that have other brands have the same problem, so I think it is just the nature of the beast. Maybe someone else has a different solution - we can hope that there is one.

Cheryl - Saskatoon

Re: Janome Skyline 7

Cheryl Paul
 

Kathy,

I hear you! Even my 15000 does that and you know what they cost. I think that it is the way fabric feeds and I know that I have the tendency to start sewing on the first millimetre of fabric that goes into the machine - I say millimetre because it is so small. If I start in about 1/4 of an inch (as a Canadian I should know what that is in metric but I don’t) and then it doesn’t pound down into the needle plate. I just did this on my Continental M7 last week on QUILTING COTTON that was stabilized with Best Press. I know that we need to use the zig-zag plate with everything except the straight stitch or special needle plate for special feet and needle placements, so I don’t think you have any alternative but to just start a little bit into the fabric. I know that friends that have other brands have the same problem, so I think it is just the nature of the beast. Maybe someone else has a different solution - we can hope that there is one.

Cheryl - Saskatoon

Embroidery on MC12000 question

Sharron Brittingham
 

Earlier this year I started an embroidery appliqué project with a friend who has Viking machines.  I did several blocks on her Viiking machine.  I also received all the files in .jef format.  I figured out how to do one block on my machine (I had never done this before).  I noticed that despite all the .JEF files being on my flash drive, there are some files (numbered for each block) do not appear on my MC12000.  I've figured out that the files are sorted by which hoop they need.

I have the SQ23, GR, SQ14, FA10 & ASQ22 hoops.

There are 2 blocks I need to do (sized 129mm W x 346mm H) and (131mm W x 332mm H).  The designs for these blocks do not appear on my machine.

Any suggestions on how I can do those blocks on my MC12000?  Is there a specific hoop I need to buy?

Attached is a picture of the pattern I'm trying to do.

Janome Skyline 7

Kathy Strabel
 

Hello Group!
OK, I am keeping busy in my workroom, sewing swimwear for when the weather turns nicer. Things are going OK, but I must express my exasperation --once again--with something with the Janome Skyline 7--maybe the entire Skyline model line, maybe even other Janome models.  Here it is......I go to start a seam and the fabric gets sucked down into the needle plate.   I am sewing on knits, so am using the lightning stitch---e.g.-a zigzag type of stitch.  Therefore, I cannot use the straight stitch plate.  I am using poly lycra "sport" or "performance" fabrics,  a Janome Purple Tip needle, and some tissue paper under the seamline;  and I have to begin my seams at least am inch or more from the actual beginning of the seam. Then stitch down to the bottom of the seam.  I have to be supper-duper careful to end the stitching a few stitches BEFORE the actual end of the seam. Then, I have to take the whole thing out of the machine, turn the garment around, and stitch the part that I had to leave un-sewn at the beginning because the fabric gets caught in the needle plate.  I have resorted to using a starter piece--some people call it a "spider"--but that causes another problem. You stitch on the starter piece, then onto the garment, but when you do that, there is no backstitching to lock the stitch. You just cut off the starter piece and have threads hanging that have to be hand-tied together.  If I backstitch soon after I start stitching on the garment from the starter piece, the fabric gets pushed into the needle plate.  Having paid almost $2K for this machine, I must say that I am pretty disappointed. I don't know if any Janome sales people or engineers read these online Group forums, but if you are :  This is the kind of stuff that turns people OFF of home sewing, especially the younger people that companies are trying to attract. If you spend a bundle on a machine that  gives an "iffy"  performance, the pleasure and satisfaction of home sewing goes out the window, maybe even followed by the machine itself. I am not in a position to upgrade to a "better" machine. I have been sewing for 50+ years, so I I know my stuff.  I just find it very disappointing that a machine in this class requires so much "babysitting" . I might expect this from a lesser brand bought off the shelf at Walmart, but not in this machine.  Any suggestions/advice appreciated  I hope everyone is keeping safe and healthy as we wait out the corona virus.     Kathy Strabel    Camas WA

Re: Help with error message

blue_lak
 

One thing you might look for is dust accumulation around the 2 little sensor pins in the machine bed, right under the needle plate. They're in the right upper corner on the 12000. A very, very gentle brush sweep is all that's needed. Your description sounds like it a sensor adjustment might be needed.
Jan

Re: Help with error message

Kim Normandin
 

Thank you Deb. I feel better about taking it in for service knowing that it’s not something simple that I’m overlooking😊


On Mar 17, 2020, at 8:55 PM, Deb Keldrauk <dekay929@...> wrote:

Kim, 
I had this problem last month and no matter what I tried I couldn’t fix it. I took it to the dealer and they had it about a week. Good as new now.
sorry I am sure this isn’t what you want to hear right now.
Be well.