Date   

Re: Invisible thread

Connie
 

Thank you Jim.  Just ready for this step on purse handle and I think invisible thread the best option.

On January 29, 2020 at 11:59 AM "Jim Stutsman via Groups.Io" <onlinesewing@...> wrote:

Yes, it’s fine. However use a little caution:
 
  • Use the best quality you can get. Superior & Sulky make good polyester versions.

  • Avoid nylon monofilament. It’s very stiff and wiry, and can melt under a hot iron. This can make it hard to thread, or keep threaded for that matter, as it may want to loop over the take-up lever and come out.

  • Use extra caution when threading. Since it’s hard to see, it’s super easy to mis-thread. That can lead to misery. Take your first few stitches slowly to make sure all is well.

 


Re: Invisible thread

Jim Stutsman
 

Yes, it’s fine. However use a little caution:
 
  • Use the best quality you can get. Superior & Sulky make good polyester versions.

  • Avoid nylon monofilament. It’s very stiff and wiry, and can melt under a hot iron. This can make it hard to thread, or keep threaded for that matter, as it may want to loop over the take-up lever and come out.

  • Use extra caution when threading. Since it’s hard to see, it’s super easy to mis-thread. That can lead to misery. Take your first few stitches slowly to make sure all is well.


Invisible thread

Connie
 

Jim,
Is it safe to use the good quality invisible thread in both the needle and the bobbin on the 15000?  I am making a purse handle and can't get an exact match for sewing thread. Your thoughts appreciated.

Connie


Re: 12000 Bobbin Winder

Jim Stutsman
 

No, not a sensor problem. The clutch is sticking. I had a lot of 11000s with this problem. It may need lubrication or some adjustment may be needed in the lever that disengages it when the bobbin winder is flipped over.


12000 Bobbin Winder

favymtz
 

Maybe you can determine if this is a real problem or just an aberration.
When trying to wind a bobbin on the 12000 yesterday this is what the machine was doing:
Threaded the thread through the winding path, engaged the bobbin clutch by moving the bobbin into position.
Hit the Start button, the bobbin began turning but the needle went up and down about 3 times, then stopped in the down position.
The bobbin winder then slowed down to snail speed.
I started the process over again several times and the same results; the needle would go up and down a few times, stop down, and bobbin winder slowed.
After about 7 tries the bobbin winder finally worked properly and it wound.
Later when I needed to wind another bobbin, it did the same thing, but this time the whole weird sequence only did it about 2 times before it behaved.
Is this a sensor problem?
~favymtz


Re: Machine Janome 15000

Theresa Lindal
 

Thank you Jim, so I will just wind bobbins on another machine.  I know now not to do things like that again.  I’ve always loved learning how to fix things,  I’m pretty old so this machine will be the only one for me so it will do without the bobbin winder,  as always thanks again.


Re: Machine Janome 15000

Jim Stutsman
 

I have deleted the oversize picture and replaced it here with a smaller one. The good news is that you are not the first person in my 25 years of machine servicing to have done this. The bad news is that you are the second. Your persistence in removing the screw is admirable, but didn't you wonder why the head of the screw was larger than the hole above it? That particular screw has a nut under the cover, and that nut is now somewhere inside the top of the machine. It's not likely to cause any trouble there, and vibration may one day cause it to drop out while you're sewing. I don't know whether you removed the other parts, but you will never be able to wind a bobbin in the current state. Even if you've kept all the parts that came out with the screw, they are VERY difficult to assemble correctly, and it's just as difficult to get the whole lot back together. The fastest way out of the mess is to have a dealer order a new complete top cover, which comes with all parts installed. This will not be cheap, but installing it just requires removing 3 screws. You will probably still have to adjust the bobbin winder, using the screw that would normally be under the hole in the photo, but that's done while winding a bobbin and making SMALL changes turning the screw left or right until it winds correctly.

The lesson for all of us in this is that if Janome made an area available for cleaning, as in the case of 15000s made before the Quilt Maker edition, it will be detailed in the instruction book. If something requires tools, it's probably not a good idea to proceed without a service manual.


Re: Machine Janome 15000

Theresa Lindal
 

Found out what I was doing wrong so thought I would repeat what my dealer told me and is quite common.  When we take the needle out we unscrew it just to get the needle out.  So the screw is still partway in therefore the needle doesn’t go all the way up, that makes the thread break.  I’ve been doing that all along until I noticed how the white plastic thing under the bobbin case was all scratched up.
He said it still sees ok now just looks dirty and will replace it. 
 
Other problem I have Jim.  I’ve not been able to wind my bobbin on my machine correctly because when I first got it I cleaned it the first time,took the top tension cove and cleaned the brush the thread goes over, then lifted the cover above that
And cleaned that. For some reason I took the screw out or maybe it wasn’t ever there, don’t know.  So there is no tension when winding the bobbin. My dealer is not who I got it from and doesn’t have that machine in stock so doesn’t think it is what is wrong.  Anyway I am enclosing a picture of it and wondered how I could get it, don’t have a dealer here other than him.  
 
 
 
 


Re: in the hoop projects

mah_jongg
 

Thanks!


Re: in the hoop projects

HEATHER COWAN
 

Love my MB4.  It is my go to machine.  Easy to learn it is semi industrial so stands up to those tricky designs.  The hoop is so easy to mount that it is really good for applique and ITH where you have to take hoop off and on many times.   I’ve had it run all day and it never ‘burps’.  Handles metallic threads the absolute best of all my machines.  You do have to oil it regularly but it is much easier to oil than the 500E .... just a few drops behind the needle bar.  The only drawback if you do big big designs is the hoop is 240x200.  I seldom do designs bigger than that except quilt blocks which I do using the Quilt hoop of my 15000.  I haven’t looked at the MB7 so don’t know price point but it is a newer model and .... yeah ... more threads.  Good luck with the decision.  I was a former Pfaff girl [30 years] but Love my three Janome machines.  
Heather

On Jan 27, 2020, at 5:49 AM, mah_jongg@... via Groups.Io <mah_jongg@...> wrote:

Been looking at the 550E & MB-4s. Both have their pros & cons. Was wondering how well the MB-4s works for doing ITH projects. Have lots of them. From day one, my 10000 has never worked properly for embroidering.  The 8000 & 9000 machines embroidered like a charm. 

Thanks


in the hoop projects

mah_jongg
 

Been looking at the 550E & MB-4s. Both have their pros & cons. Was wondering how well the MB-4s works for doing ITH projects. Have lots of them. From day one, my 10000 has never worked properly for embroidering.  The 8000 & 9000 machines embroidered like a charm. 

Thanks


Re: Lubricating an older machine...

Jim Stutsman
 

The white grease is probably lithium grease, which does not harden with time. Tri-Flo grease will be fine there, as well as the non-lithium gears. Try to remove as much of the old grease as you can before applying the Tri-Flo. You'll also want to use the liquid form of Tri-Flo on shafts at the point where they go through a bushing.


Lubricating an older machine...

Nyssa Lanzafame
 

hello, I am looking at lubricating/relubricating an older machine.  I am not willing to spend the money on taking it in for service ( I need those funds for my 15000 ;) but i would like to take care of my older machines-like pets?  LOL!  I have found that there is a 'yellow' grease on most of the metal moving bits, but then there is a plastic gear that is in good shape and has a very white grease on it...is this a special lubricant for plastic?  I have been told to use Tri-Flow for both the grease and oil in machines, but then was warned it has a teflon ingredient and should not be used anywhere a wick is in use ( as the wick will no longer absorb oil if it absorbs the teflon)  I was hoping for some wisdom on this subject


Re: Bobbins for MC7700

lgvelez@...
 

Thank you very much, Jim. 

Laura




On Friday, January 24, 2020, 7:14 PM, Jim Stutsman via Groups.Io <onlinesewing@...> wrote:

Class 15, sometimes sold as type ‘A’.


Re: Bobbins for MC7700

Jim Stutsman
 

Class 15, sometimes sold as type ‘A’.


Bobbins for MC7700

lgvelez@...
 

I have a friend who owns an MC7700 and she wants to know what kind of bobbin she needs to buy for her machine. 

i told her that I would ask you because you know everything!

thank you, Laura Velez


Re: Question about 550E

favymtz
 

Yes, hanging it off the ceiling to keep the weight off the bed of the machine to lighten the load! There’s actually a product available called the Weightless Quilter that is a stand to hold up the quilt to do the same thing.
If a person does lots of quilting, both free motion and in the hoop quilting, this is a logical way to go!
However, I’m like you Cheryl, a huge one is not for me!
--
Favymtz


Re: Machine jam

Theresa Lindal
 

Don’t know if I sent this or not may be repeated.  I looked at my machine 15000 under bobbin because of thread breaks when embroidering and the white circle thing under bobbin was worn and grooved pretty bad so into the shop I go!


Re: Machine jam

Theresa Lindal
 

Jim I was so glad to read this as on my 15000 I had same problems but I had reduced the size of the design so is really to much stitching for the design haven’t decided what to do yet but will check everything to make sure it’s ok, thank you as always. I haven’t embroidered for quite awhile so forgot a lot !!!


Re: Question about 550E

J Fraker
 

I've done some really large quilts with my 12000 and the ASQ hoop.  I put two hooks in the ceiling over my sewing table, then used parachute cord to hang some clamps from the hooks and I clamp the quilt bulk up over the machine.  I don't take the hoop off the machine, just take the magnets off, move the quilt, then put the magnets back on.  It isn't necessarily simple, but isn't terribly hard.


On Thu, Jan 23, 2020 at 4:49 PM Cheryl Paul <capaul@...> wrote:
Pixey,

Quilt blocks are certainly easier, BUT this quilt hoop was created so that whole quilts could be quilted quickly and easily.  I’m here to tell you that the “easy” was a challenge for me.  Even though there is lots of space, when you’ve got the whole quilt ready to mount on the machine and mine were only single bed and lap size I found it a struggle to get everything where it should be and I didn’t take it totally out of the machine any more often that I absolutely needed to.  I also have lots of space and a large enough table.  I know people who have quilted a King Size quilt on their machine - I’m here to tell you it will NEVER be me.

Cheryl - Saskatoon



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