Date   

Re: thread-cutter

Sherry Martin
 

I have trouble with the thread cutter every once in a while also. I have noticed that if I try to cut the thread too quickly after I stop sewing that sometimes it doesn't cut the top thread; although I have had problems other times also. So maybe you could wait an extra second or so after sewing and then push the cut button and see if that helps.

--- In janome12000@..., "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@...> wrote:

I'm assuming that you have already removed the needle plate and checked for anything that might be jammed in the thread cutter. If it's clear, have your dealer check it out. There may be an adjustment required. The thread cutters on the 6600 and 11000 were tied to the rotation of the machine, but this one (and the 7700) has an independent motor. That should make it more reliable. Is this a new problem, or has it been happening all along? It is only with So Fine thread, or others as well? If it's isolated to the fine threads, tension may be a factor. The top thread needs to be held while cutting, but really fine thread might sneak through the tension enough to miss cutting. That's just my guess - the best course is to take it to someone who can actually lay hands on the machine!

--- In janome12000@..., "Vikki Youngmeyer" <vikkiy@> wrote:

I'm having an intermittent problem with the thread cutter on my 12000.
Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I've been using So Fine for both
the top and bobbin threads. It's the top thread that isn't getting cut. Any
suggestions? I've had the machine since Thanksgiving last year.



Vikki

Houston, TX


Re: clunk

mcmaster_heather
 

LOL! Pity if I was a Vegetarian! Yes I had thougt about the treats too. I had two dogs til Nov and the male always stayed!.

--- In janome12000@..., "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@...> wrote:

That's so sad! Have you tried wearing a pork chop around your neck? Or maybe a dab of bacon grease behind each ear? Well, maybe not. Still, you might keep some treats handy in your sewing room. A random reward now and again may help her overcome her fears. Keep us posted on your progress!

--- In janome12000@..., "HDD" <hddcreation@> wrote:


Thanks from me too for posting this question.
yes it is annoying BUT more to my dog!! She womn't stay in the room with me when I sew on the 12000. Thay always stayed with me while I had the 6600 & 7700.
I miss her presence :-(

Heather
QLD
--- In janome12000@..., "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@> wrote:

The "clunk" sound is normal, related to checking the bobbin. If the bobbin sensor were optical you wouldn't have the noise, but then it might not work when the bobbin area got linty.

Serger thread for piecing is not a great idea. It's fuzzy and makes a lot of lint, which will build up in the bobbin case tension area where it can eventually cause loss of tension. Superior makes a lot of different threads. What you want is called Bottom Line. It's a very strong polyester and it's also fine. More importantly, it's made from long fibers so it's smooth with very little lint.

--- In janome12000@..., "stresover" <moos@> wrote:

Is there a way I can stop the clunk every time I start sewing after stopping and not raising the presser foot? I assume not but thought I'd ask. The more features you get, the more clunks you get!

Am using serger thread doing some piecing and the stitch isn't very good on the bottom. I bought some Superior Thread a few years ago and it broke as easy as serger thread so have been using serger thread sometimes for piecing. What do you think about serger thread for piecing? It's nice and thin to get an accurate seam allowance.


Re: clunk

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

That's so sad! Have you tried wearing a pork chop around your neck? Or maybe a dab of bacon grease behind each ear? Well, maybe not. Still, you might keep some treats handy in your sewing room. A random reward now and again may help her overcome her fears. Keep us posted on your progress!

--- In janome12000@..., "HDD" <hddcreation@...> wrote:


Thanks from me too for posting this question.
yes it is annoying BUT more to my dog!! She womn't stay in the room with me when I sew on the 12000. Thay always stayed with me while I had the 6600 & 7700.
I miss her presence :-(

Heather
QLD
--- In janome12000@..., "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@> wrote:

The "clunk" sound is normal, related to checking the bobbin. If the bobbin sensor were optical you wouldn't have the noise, but then it might not work when the bobbin area got linty.

Serger thread for piecing is not a great idea. It's fuzzy and makes a lot of lint, which will build up in the bobbin case tension area where it can eventually cause loss of tension. Superior makes a lot of different threads. What you want is called Bottom Line. It's a very strong polyester and it's also fine. More importantly, it's made from long fibers so it's smooth with very little lint.

--- In janome12000@..., "stresover" <moos@> wrote:

Is there a way I can stop the clunk every time I start sewing after stopping and not raising the presser foot? I assume not but thought I'd ask. The more features you get, the more clunks you get!

Am using serger thread doing some piecing and the stitch isn't very good on the bottom. I bought some Superior Thread a few years ago and it broke as easy as serger thread so have been using serger thread sometimes for piecing. What do you think about serger thread for piecing? It's nice and thin to get an accurate seam allowance.


Re: Digitizer MB v3.0P

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

I was hooped once, back in the summer of 63. Couldn't walk right for nearly a week.

As you said, you can create your own hoops in Digitizer MB V3.0. However that only works for non-Janome formats. The JEF format includes a special code that tells the machine what hoop to use, and you can't save a custom hoop to a JEF or JEF+ format. What *might* work is to choose the MB-4 as your machine and the M1 hoop. Make sure you don't go bigger than 230mm on the long side of the hoop. Save to your USB drive and see if it will open. If it won't, try opening in Horizon Link and then saving back to USB.

--- In janome12000@..., "sewwhat4ca" <bvangool@...> wrote:

Jim

I have the 12000 and I have Digitizer MB V3.0P I am under the impression that you can use this with other machines, so I thought that if I create the hoops from the 12000 that it could work. However, I cannot save the design I created in any of the 12000 hoops to a USB stick. I really cannot afford the MBX at this time and I thought that this could been around the different hoop sizes. What am I doing wrong or am I hooped??
Bev


Digitizer MB v3.0P

sewwhat4ca <bvangool@...>
 

Jim

I have the 12000 and I have Digitizer MB V3.0P I am under the impression that you can use this with other machines, so I thought that if I create the hoops from the 12000 that it could work. However, I cannot save the design I created in any of the 12000 hoops to a USB stick. I really cannot afford the MBX at this time and I thought that this could been around the different hoop sizes. What am I doing wrong or am I hooped??
Bev


Re: clunk

mcmaster_heather
 

Thanks from me too for posting this question.
yes it is annoying BUT more to my dog!! She womn't stay in the room with me when I sew on the 12000. Thay always stayed with me while I had the 6600 & 7700.
I miss her presence :-(

Heather
QLD

--- In janome12000@..., "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@...> wrote:

The "clunk" sound is normal, related to checking the bobbin. If the bobbin sensor were optical you wouldn't have the noise, but then it might not work when the bobbin area got linty.

Serger thread for piecing is not a great idea. It's fuzzy and makes a lot of lint, which will build up in the bobbin case tension area where it can eventually cause loss of tension. Superior makes a lot of different threads. What you want is called Bottom Line. It's a very strong polyester and it's also fine. More importantly, it's made from long fibers so it's smooth with very little lint.

--- In janome12000@..., "stresover" <moos@> wrote:

Is there a way I can stop the clunk every time I start sewing after stopping and not raising the presser foot? I assume not but thought I'd ask. The more features you get, the more clunks you get!

Am using serger thread doing some piecing and the stitch isn't very good on the bottom. I bought some Superior Thread a few years ago and it broke as easy as serger thread so have been using serger thread sometimes for piecing. What do you think about serger thread for piecing? It's nice and thin to get an accurate seam allowance.


new owner

Estelle Torpy
 

Hi all,

I bought my 12000 four weeks ago tomorrow and am enjoying it very much. So far everything has worked extremely well. I appreciate this list and the information shared. This is my first Janome machine so some of the feet look strange to me but the stitching is beautiful. I did some channel stitching on a quilt border using the fabric guide that came out fantastic. What a cool tool! I have pieced two twin sized strip quilts and love the 1/4" foot.

I will be a first time Grandma this summer so I am embroidering baby clothes that were passed down to my daughter. Every item that didn't come with embroidery on it is in my to-do pile. The small hoop with the free arm is making that job so easy. Yeah!

Thanks in advance, since I know I will have a question sooner or later.

Estelle


Re: Janome Bobbins

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

Update - Diane tells me that all of her bobbins, which are the rubberized 102261103 type, have the "J" on the spindle. That may be a reliable way of determining those.

--- In janome12000@..., "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@...> wrote:

Over our 25 years as dealers we bought thousands of bobbins, both Janome and (for a very short time) "generic" class 15. The Janome bobbins sometimes had a J on the spindle, sometimes B, sometimes nothing. It has varied over the years. The main difference between the Janome bobbins and the cheap imitations is the thickness of the plastic on the top and bottom of each bobbin. The generic ones are noticeably thinner, and as a consequence break much easier. The imitations also often have little plastic "whiskers" near the hole in the middle, from overused molds that allow small amounts of plastic to leak out around the injection point.

In our final 5 years we bought only the premium Janome bobbins, which contained a small amount of rubber in the plastic. These are part number 102261103. There aren't many visible differences, but they have a different feel to them. The rubber makes them just slightly less slick, so your finger drags ever so slightly when you rub one.

--- In janome12000@..., "Ann" <annsew65@> wrote:



Jim,

A question about Janome bobbins. Have the Janome bobbins always had the "J" on the spindle? In checking over my bobbins, I find very few of them with this designation. I purchased a lot of supposedly Janome bobbins from my old Janome dealer in years past , and if this has always been on the bobbins, then this dealer sold me a lot of imitations. Just curious.

I noticed many of them have a letter or number (very small) on the outside edge.


Re: thread-cutter

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

I'm assuming that you have already removed the needle plate and checked for anything that might be jammed in the thread cutter. If it's clear, have your dealer check it out. There may be an adjustment required. The thread cutters on the 6600 and 11000 were tied to the rotation of the machine, but this one (and the 7700) has an independent motor. That should make it more reliable. Is this a new problem, or has it been happening all along? It is only with So Fine thread, or others as well? If it's isolated to the fine threads, tension may be a factor. The top thread needs to be held while cutting, but really fine thread might sneak through the tension enough to miss cutting. That's just my guess - the best course is to take it to someone who can actually lay hands on the machine!

--- In janome12000@..., "Vikki Youngmeyer" <vikkiy@...> wrote:

I'm having an intermittent problem with the thread cutter on my 12000.
Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I've been using So Fine for both
the top and bobbin threads. It's the top thread that isn't getting cut. Any
suggestions? I've had the machine since Thanksgiving last year.



Vikki

Houston, TX


Re: Another MBX Cross Stitch add on question

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

There is a different product for cross stitch on MBX, but if you have V3 cross stitch installed and upgrade to MBX, you have cross stitch for MBX. In essence all that's in that box is software and a code to update your dongle to activate cross stitch. However the software in the box assumes that your dongle is version 3. Please don't do anything until I have checked this. You don't want to do anything that will damage your dongle! I'll consult with experts and report back.

--- In janome12000@..., "Cheryl" <capaul@...> wrote:

Jim,

Does the old Janome Cross Stitch add-on work with MBX? I have one that I bought about 3 years ago and I'm sure it sat in my dealer's for a while before I decided I needed it and then have never used it. I will install it if there won't be any problems. Now that I've got my Mac Book Pro accepting everything nicely and not crashing (my fault, I'm sure) I don't want to mess it up.

Thanks.

Cheryl


Re: sewing mode

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

As noted in another message (Problem solved) the straight stitch plate was on.

--- In janome12000@..., "sandyk" <sandys7777@...> wrote:

I have been using the 12000 for embroidery for awhile and put it back down in its cabinet to go into sewing mode and all the options are grayed out, I can only use the straight sewing option. I need the quilting patchwork, decorative stitch option to come up. I turned off and on, like the book says.
Thanks


problem solved

sandy k
 

I had the straight stitch plate on,,
Just another reason I love this machine!!!
Thanks
 
Sandy Kent/Quilter
Magnolia Springs Texas





From: Jim_Stutsman
To: janome12000@...
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 9:56 AM
Subject: [janome12000] Re: MBX Cross Stitch add on question

 
Once you are inside the Cross Stitch option (File -> Cross Stitch) click the "Help -> Online Manual" menu option and it will open the manual in Adobe Reader, or whatever PDF reader you have installed. From there you can print it out. If you want the actual PDF file for printing at Kinko's or an office supply store, you can get it from this folder:
C: -> Program Files -> Janome -> Digitizer MBX -> BIN -> XDSGNED.PDF

--- In janome12000@..., GLENDA T wrote:
>
> Does any one have the cross stitch add on installed with the MBX program?  I am trying to figure out how to download the manual for it so I can print it out.  Cannot see a file that is the manual on the CD that came with it.  Thank you for any help.
> Glenda
>  
>




New to group

Nancy Frye
 

Good day all,
 
Not only am I new to this group, the Janome 12000 is the first embroidery machine I have every owned.  WOW, I am a tad bit over whelmed.  I went to a sew fest last weekend and took 5, one hour long classes and did learn, I still have sooooooo much more to take in.
 
I wanted to thank all of you for asking your questions, getting responses, and imparting such great information.  I have several things on my plate right now and will not be able to embroider although I am sewing.  I make all the teacher gifts for all my Grandchildren 's teahers.  Next year I hope to be doing embroidery projects for all of them.
 
I am reading and taking notes of all that is discussed knowing that it will come in handy soon.  Just wanted to send out a big THANK YOU!!
 
Nancy


Another MBX Cross Stitch add on question

Cheryl Paul
 

Jim,

Does the old Janome Cross Stitch add-on work with MBX? I have one that I bought about 3 years ago and I'm sure it sat in my dealer's for a while before I decided I needed it and then have never used it. I will install it if there won't be any problems. Now that I've got my Mac Book Pro accepting everything nicely and not crashing (my fault, I'm sure) I don't want to mess it up.

Thanks.

Cheryl


sewing mode

sandy k
 

I have been using the 12000 for embroidery for awhile and put it back down in its cabinet to go into sewing mode and all the options are grayed out, I can only use the straight sewing option. I need the quilting patchwork, decorative stitch option to come up. I turned off and on, like the book says.
Thanks


thread-cutter

Vikki Youngmeyer
 

I’m having an intermittent problem with the thread cutter on my 12000. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. I’ve been using So Fine for both the top and bobbin threads. It’s the top thread that isn’t getting cut. Any suggestions? I’ve had the machine since Thanksgiving last year.

 

Vikki

Houston, TX


Re: Janome Bobbins

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

Over our 25 years as dealers we bought thousands of bobbins, both Janome and (for a very short time) "generic" class 15. The Janome bobbins sometimes had a J on the spindle, sometimes B, sometimes nothing. It has varied over the years. The main difference between the Janome bobbins and the cheap imitations is the thickness of the plastic on the top and bottom of each bobbin. The generic ones are noticeably thinner, and as a consequence break much easier. The imitations also often have little plastic "whiskers" near the hole in the middle, from overused molds that allow small amounts of plastic to leak out around the injection point.

In our final 5 years we bought only the premium Janome bobbins, which contained a small amount of rubber in the plastic. These are part number 102261103. There aren't many visible differences, but they have a different feel to them. The rubber makes them just slightly less slick, so your finger drags ever so slightly when you rub one.

--- In janome12000@..., "Ann" <annsew65@...> wrote:



Jim,

A question about Janome bobbins. Have the Janome bobbins always had the "J" on the spindle? In checking over my bobbins, I find very few of them with this designation. I purchased a lot of supposedly Janome bobbins from my old Janome dealer in years past , and if this has always been on the bobbins, then this dealer sold me a lot of imitations. Just curious.

I noticed many of them have a letter or number (very small) on the outside edge.


Re: Janome Bobbins

Ann
 

Jim,

A question about Janome bobbins. Have the Janome bobbins always had the "J" on the spindle? In checking over my bobbins, I find very few of them with this designation. I purchased a lot of supposedly Janome bobbins from my old Janome dealer in years past , and if this has always been on the bobbins, then this dealer sold me a lot of imitations. Just curious.

I noticed many of them have a letter or number (very small) on the outside edge.


Re: clunk

Susan <sjspencer@...>
 

Thanks Jim. I noticed the "clunk" too and it didn't bother or concern me but I wondered what it was. Nice to know so that if I ever "don't" hear it, I'll be concerned! Susan

--- In janome12000@..., "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@...> wrote:

The "clunk" sound is normal, related to checking the bobbin. If the bobbin sensor were optical you wouldn't have the noise, but then it might not work when the bobbin area got linty.

Serger thread for piecing is not a great idea. It's fuzzy and makes a lot of lint, which will build up in the bobbin case tension area where it can eventually cause loss of tension. Superior makes a lot of different threads. What you want is called Bottom Line. It's a very strong polyester and it's also fine. More importantly, it's made from long fibers so it's smooth with very little lint.

--- In janome12000@..., "stresover" <moos@> wrote:

Is there a way I can stop the clunk every time I start sewing after stopping and not raising the presser foot? I assume not but thought I'd ask. The more features you get, the more clunks you get!

Am using serger thread doing some piecing and the stitch isn't very good on the bottom. I bought some Superior Thread a few years ago and it broke as easy as serger thread so have been using serger thread sometimes for piecing. What do you think about serger thread for piecing? It's nice and thin to get an accurate seam allowance.


Re: thread

Susan <sjspencer@...>
 

I've just had my machine a short while and haven't tried a lot of threads. I started with my favorite - Superior So Fine! 50 wt and so far, I haven't had a breaking problem, it's virtually lint free and because it doesn't have the "fuzz", I feel it doesn't take up as much fabric in a seam as cotton of the same weight. I also use this in the bobbin when piecing. I haven't tried free motion quilting on the MC12000 yet, but in my other machine (Juki 2010Q) I've used Superior Omni 40 wt (poly) which is made for longarm machines that sew at high speeds. I'm expecting that it will work well on the MC12000 too and when using Omni, I typically use the So Fine! in the bobbin. Omni is also a low-lint thread. I've done applique on the MC12000 using Superior's mono filament (invisible) thread in the top and the SoFine! in the bobbin - works beautifully! I've also used the Superior Bottom Line in the top for applique and So Fine! in the bobbin and it also worked beautifully. When I started researching threads for quilting and piecing, I too thought I had to use cotton. From what I've read, that is really not the case any more with the high quality polys made for quilters. In fact the So Fine! thread line is John Flynn's and he pieces and quilts with it all the time. Susan

--- In janome12000@..., Sharon Moos <moos@...> wrote:

I try to use cotton thread for piecing since my fabrics are all cotton. The Superior Thread I purchased at PIQF is Masterpiece and had Alex Anderson's name on it so I thought it would be good. It was expensive. I was surprised it breaks so easily. It says it's extra-long Egyptian cotton. Aurifil seems to work well. A local quilt shop carries Presencia which works well and is expensive for every day piecing.

What thread do you quilters use for piecing?

On Apr 28, 2012, at 6:08 AM, Jim_Stutsman wrote:

The "clunk" sound is normal, related to checking the bobbin. If the bobbin sensor were optical you wouldn't have the noise, but then it might not work when the bobbin area got linty.

Serger thread for piecing is not a great idea. It's fuzzy and makes a lot of lint, which will build up in the bobbin case tension area where it can eventually cause loss of tension. Superior makes a lot of different threads. What you want is called Bottom Line. It's a very strong polyester and it's also fine. More importantly, it's made from long fibers so it's smooth with very little lint.

--- In janome12000@..., "stresover" <moos@> wrote:

Is there a way I can stop the clunk every time I start sewing after stopping and not raising the presser foot? I assume not but thought I'd ask. The more features you get, the more clunks you get!

Am using serger thread doing some piecing and the stitch isn't very good on the bottom. I bought some Superior Thread a few years ago and it broke as easy as serger thread so have been using serger thread sometimes for piecing. What do you think about serger thread for piecing? It's nice and thin to get an accurate seam allowance.