Date   

problem solved

sandy k
 

I had the straight stitch plate on,,
Just another reason I love this machine!!!
Thanks
 
Sandy Kent/Quilter
Magnolia Springs Texas





From: Jim_Stutsman
To: janome12000@...
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 9:56 AM
Subject: [janome12000] Re: MBX Cross Stitch add on question

 
Once you are inside the Cross Stitch option (File -> Cross Stitch) click the "Help -> Online Manual" menu option and it will open the manual in Adobe Reader, or whatever PDF reader you have installed. From there you can print it out. If you want the actual PDF file for printing at Kinko's or an office supply store, you can get it from this folder:
C: -> Program Files -> Janome -> Digitizer MBX -> BIN -> XDSGNED.PDF

--- In janome12000@..., GLENDA T wrote:
>
> Does any one have the cross stitch add on installed with the MBX program?  I am trying to figure out how to download the manual for it so I can print it out.  Cannot see a file that is the manual on the CD that came with it.  Thank you for any help.
> Glenda
>  
>




New to group

Nancy Frye
 

Good day all,
 
Not only am I new to this group, the Janome 12000 is the first embroidery machine I have every owned.  WOW, I am a tad bit over whelmed.  I went to a sew fest last weekend and took 5, one hour long classes and did learn, I still have sooooooo much more to take in.
 
I wanted to thank all of you for asking your questions, getting responses, and imparting such great information.  I have several things on my plate right now and will not be able to embroider although I am sewing.  I make all the teacher gifts for all my Grandchildren 's teahers.  Next year I hope to be doing embroidery projects for all of them.
 
I am reading and taking notes of all that is discussed knowing that it will come in handy soon.  Just wanted to send out a big THANK YOU!!
 
Nancy


Another MBX Cross Stitch add on question

Cheryl Paul
 

Jim,

Does the old Janome Cross Stitch add-on work with MBX? I have one that I bought about 3 years ago and I'm sure it sat in my dealer's for a while before I decided I needed it and then have never used it. I will install it if there won't be any problems. Now that I've got my Mac Book Pro accepting everything nicely and not crashing (my fault, I'm sure) I don't want to mess it up.

Thanks.

Cheryl


sewing mode

sandy k
 

I have been using the 12000 for embroidery for awhile and put it back down in its cabinet to go into sewing mode and all the options are grayed out, I can only use the straight sewing option. I need the quilting patchwork, decorative stitch option to come up. I turned off and on, like the book says.
Thanks


thread-cutter

Vikki Youngmeyer
 

I’m having an intermittent problem with the thread cutter on my 12000. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. I’ve been using So Fine for both the top and bobbin threads. It’s the top thread that isn’t getting cut. Any suggestions? I’ve had the machine since Thanksgiving last year.

 

Vikki

Houston, TX


Re: Janome Bobbins

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

Over our 25 years as dealers we bought thousands of bobbins, both Janome and (for a very short time) "generic" class 15. The Janome bobbins sometimes had a J on the spindle, sometimes B, sometimes nothing. It has varied over the years. The main difference between the Janome bobbins and the cheap imitations is the thickness of the plastic on the top and bottom of each bobbin. The generic ones are noticeably thinner, and as a consequence break much easier. The imitations also often have little plastic "whiskers" near the hole in the middle, from overused molds that allow small amounts of plastic to leak out around the injection point.

In our final 5 years we bought only the premium Janome bobbins, which contained a small amount of rubber in the plastic. These are part number 102261103. There aren't many visible differences, but they have a different feel to them. The rubber makes them just slightly less slick, so your finger drags ever so slightly when you rub one.

--- In janome12000@..., "Ann" <annsew65@...> wrote:



Jim,

A question about Janome bobbins. Have the Janome bobbins always had the "J" on the spindle? In checking over my bobbins, I find very few of them with this designation. I purchased a lot of supposedly Janome bobbins from my old Janome dealer in years past , and if this has always been on the bobbins, then this dealer sold me a lot of imitations. Just curious.

I noticed many of them have a letter or number (very small) on the outside edge.


Re: Janome Bobbins

Ann
 

Jim,

A question about Janome bobbins. Have the Janome bobbins always had the "J" on the spindle? In checking over my bobbins, I find very few of them with this designation. I purchased a lot of supposedly Janome bobbins from my old Janome dealer in years past , and if this has always been on the bobbins, then this dealer sold me a lot of imitations. Just curious.

I noticed many of them have a letter or number (very small) on the outside edge.


Re: clunk

Susan <sjspencer@...>
 

Thanks Jim. I noticed the "clunk" too and it didn't bother or concern me but I wondered what it was. Nice to know so that if I ever "don't" hear it, I'll be concerned! Susan

--- In janome12000@..., "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@...> wrote:

The "clunk" sound is normal, related to checking the bobbin. If the bobbin sensor were optical you wouldn't have the noise, but then it might not work when the bobbin area got linty.

Serger thread for piecing is not a great idea. It's fuzzy and makes a lot of lint, which will build up in the bobbin case tension area where it can eventually cause loss of tension. Superior makes a lot of different threads. What you want is called Bottom Line. It's a very strong polyester and it's also fine. More importantly, it's made from long fibers so it's smooth with very little lint.

--- In janome12000@..., "stresover" <moos@> wrote:

Is there a way I can stop the clunk every time I start sewing after stopping and not raising the presser foot? I assume not but thought I'd ask. The more features you get, the more clunks you get!

Am using serger thread doing some piecing and the stitch isn't very good on the bottom. I bought some Superior Thread a few years ago and it broke as easy as serger thread so have been using serger thread sometimes for piecing. What do you think about serger thread for piecing? It's nice and thin to get an accurate seam allowance.


Re: thread

Susan <sjspencer@...>
 

I've just had my machine a short while and haven't tried a lot of threads. I started with my favorite - Superior So Fine! 50 wt and so far, I haven't had a breaking problem, it's virtually lint free and because it doesn't have the "fuzz", I feel it doesn't take up as much fabric in a seam as cotton of the same weight. I also use this in the bobbin when piecing. I haven't tried free motion quilting on the MC12000 yet, but in my other machine (Juki 2010Q) I've used Superior Omni 40 wt (poly) which is made for longarm machines that sew at high speeds. I'm expecting that it will work well on the MC12000 too and when using Omni, I typically use the So Fine! in the bobbin. Omni is also a low-lint thread. I've done applique on the MC12000 using Superior's mono filament (invisible) thread in the top and the SoFine! in the bobbin - works beautifully! I've also used the Superior Bottom Line in the top for applique and So Fine! in the bobbin and it also worked beautifully. When I started researching threads for quilting and piecing, I too thought I had to use cotton. From what I've read, that is really not the case any more with the high quality polys made for quilters. In fact the So Fine! thread line is John Flynn's and he pieces and quilts with it all the time. Susan

--- In janome12000@..., Sharon Moos <moos@...> wrote:

I try to use cotton thread for piecing since my fabrics are all cotton. The Superior Thread I purchased at PIQF is Masterpiece and had Alex Anderson's name on it so I thought it would be good. It was expensive. I was surprised it breaks so easily. It says it's extra-long Egyptian cotton. Aurifil seems to work well. A local quilt shop carries Presencia which works well and is expensive for every day piecing.

What thread do you quilters use for piecing?

On Apr 28, 2012, at 6:08 AM, Jim_Stutsman wrote:

The "clunk" sound is normal, related to checking the bobbin. If the bobbin sensor were optical you wouldn't have the noise, but then it might not work when the bobbin area got linty.

Serger thread for piecing is not a great idea. It's fuzzy and makes a lot of lint, which will build up in the bobbin case tension area where it can eventually cause loss of tension. Superior makes a lot of different threads. What you want is called Bottom Line. It's a very strong polyester and it's also fine. More importantly, it's made from long fibers so it's smooth with very little lint.

--- In janome12000@..., "stresover" <moos@> wrote:

Is there a way I can stop the clunk every time I start sewing after stopping and not raising the presser foot? I assume not but thought I'd ask. The more features you get, the more clunks you get!

Am using serger thread doing some piecing and the stitch isn't very good on the bottom. I bought some Superior Thread a few years ago and it broke as easy as serger thread so have been using serger thread sometimes for piecing. What do you think about serger thread for piecing? It's nice and thin to get an accurate seam allowance.


Re: clunk

linynp
 

Sharon I use metzler (?spelling) serger thread in the bobbin for embroidery. Cheaper by the cone and works great!!!! Slick thin non linty than other serger threads but a bit thicker than bottom line. Haven't had an issue (knock wood). 12000 likes it too. Haven't tried it other than Bobbin yet though.

Sent from my iPhone
Nancy W


Re: thread

Sherry Martin
 

I tend to use Gutermann Sew-all thread (100% polyester) for piecing because it is readily available at Jo-Ann and if I get it on sale or with coupon not very expensive.

For quilting I like to use a shinier embroidery thread. I've been using Exquisite thread; which is a pretty inexpensive polyester embroidery thread. I never have trouble with it breaking while free-motion quilting. I haven't tried cotton thread for quilting on the 12000, but with other machines I had I always had a lot of trouble with cotton thread breaking during free-motion.

I've been told that you should use only cotton thread for quilting. It has something to do with having the strength of the thread and fabric you use being the same so they wear evenly. I don't know if this is really true, and since I'm not making heirloom quilts I don't worry about it too much. Personally I prefer a thread with more sheen.

--- In janome12000@..., Sharon Moos <moos@...> wrote:

I try to use cotton thread for piecing since my fabrics are all cotton. The Superior Thread I purchased at PIQF is Masterpiece and had Alex Anderson's name on it so I thought it would be good. It was expensive. I was surprised it breaks so easily. It says it's extra-long Egyptian cotton. Aurifil seems to work well. A local quilt shop carries Presencia which works well and is expensive for every day piecing.

What thread do you quilters use for piecing?

On Apr 28, 2012, at 6:08 AM, Jim_Stutsman wrote:

The "clunk" sound is normal, related to checking the bobbin. If the bobbin sensor were optical you wouldn't have the noise, but then it might not work when the bobbin area got linty.

Serger thread for piecing is not a great idea. It's fuzzy and makes a lot of lint, which will build up in the bobbin case tension area where it can eventually cause loss of tension. Superior makes a lot of different threads. What you want is called Bottom Line. It's a very strong polyester and it's also fine. More importantly, it's made from long fibers so it's smooth with very little lint.

--- In janome12000@..., "stresover" <moos@> wrote:

Is there a way I can stop the clunk every time I start sewing after stopping and not raising the presser foot? I assume not but thought I'd ask. The more features you get, the more clunks you get!

Am using serger thread doing some piecing and the stitch isn't very good on the bottom. I bought some Superior Thread a few years ago and it broke as easy as serger thread so have been using serger thread sometimes for piecing. What do you think about serger thread for piecing? It's nice and thin to get an accurate seam allowance.


Re: thread

Laura Catto (Brayford)
 

I use Prescencia, Aurifil or Mettler Silk Finish...all meet my needs and work on my low end as well as my high end machines...
 
Laua

From: Sharon Moos
To: janome12000@...
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 8:16:37 AM
Subject: [janome12000] Re: thread

 
I try to use cotton thread for piecing since my fabrics are all cotton. The Superior Thread I purchased at PIQF is Masterpiece and had Alex Anderson's name on it so I thought it would be good. It was expensive. I was surprised it breaks so easily. It says it's extra-long Egyptian cotton.  Aurifil seems to work well. A local quilt shop carries Presencia which works well and is expensive for every day piecing. 

What thread do you quilters use for piecing? 

On Apr 28, 2012, at 6:08 AM, Jim_Stutsman wrote:

 
The "clunk" sound is normal, related to checking the bobbin. If the bobbin sensor were optical you wouldn't have the noise, but then it might not work when the bobbin area got linty.

Serger thread for piecing is not a great idea. It's fuzzy and makes a lot of lint, which will build up in the bobbin case tension area where it can eventually cause loss of tension. Superior makes a lot of different threads. What you want is called Bottom Line. It's a very strong polyester and it's also fine. More importantly, it's made from long fibers so it's smooth with very little lint.

--- In janome12000@..., "stresover" wrote:
>
> Is there a way I can stop the clunk every time I start sewing after stopping and not raising the presser foot? I assume not but thought I'd ask. The more features you get, the more clunks you get!
>
> Am using serger thread doing some piecing and the stitch isn't very good on the bottom. I bought some Superior Thread a few years ago and it broke as easy as serger thread so have been using serger thread sometimes for piecing. What do you think about serger thread for piecing? It's nice and thin to get an accurate seam allowance.
>







Re: thread

Sharon Moos <moos@...>
 

I try to use cotton thread for piecing since my fabrics are all cotton. The Superior Thread I purchased at PIQF is Masterpiece and had Alex Anderson's name on it so I thought it would be good. It was expensive. I was surprised it breaks so easily. It says it's extra-long Egyptian cotton.  Aurifil seems to work well. A local quilt shop carries Presencia which works well and is expensive for every day piecing. 

What thread do you quilters use for piecing? 

On Apr 28, 2012, at 6:08 AM, Jim_Stutsman wrote:

 

The "clunk" sound is normal, related to checking the bobbin. If the bobbin sensor were optical you wouldn't have the noise, but then it might not work when the bobbin area got linty.

Serger thread for piecing is not a great idea. It's fuzzy and makes a lot of lint, which will build up in the bobbin case tension area where it can eventually cause loss of tension. Superior makes a lot of different threads. What you want is called Bottom Line. It's a very strong polyester and it's also fine. More importantly, it's made from long fibers so it's smooth with very little lint.

--- In janome12000@..., "stresover" wrote:
>
> Is there a way I can stop the clunk every time I start sewing after stopping and not raising the presser foot? I assume not but thought I'd ask. The more features you get, the more clunks you get!
>
> Am using serger thread doing some piecing and the stitch isn't very good on the bottom. I bought some Superior Thread a few years ago and it broke as easy as serger thread so have been using serger thread sometimes for piecing. What do you think about serger thread for piecing? It's nice and thin to get an accurate seam allowance.
>



Re: MBX Cross Stitch add on question

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

Once you are inside the Cross Stitch option (File -> Cross Stitch) click the "Help -> Online Manual" menu option and it will open the manual in Adobe Reader, or whatever PDF reader you have installed. From there you can print it out. If you want the actual PDF file for printing at Kinko's or an office supply store, you can get it from this folder:
C: -> Program Files -> Janome -> Digitizer MBX -> BIN -> XDSGNED.PDF

--- In janome12000@..., GLENDA T <t_glenda@...> wrote:

Does any one have the cross stitch add on installed with the MBX program?  I am trying to figure out how to download the manual for it so I can print it out.  Cannot see a file that is the manual on the CD that came with it.  Thank you for any help.
Glenda
 


Re: clunk

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

The "clunk" sound is normal, related to checking the bobbin. If the bobbin sensor were optical you wouldn't have the noise, but then it might not work when the bobbin area got linty.

Serger thread for piecing is not a great idea. It's fuzzy and makes a lot of lint, which will build up in the bobbin case tension area where it can eventually cause loss of tension. Superior makes a lot of different threads. What you want is called Bottom Line. It's a very strong polyester and it's also fine. More importantly, it's made from long fibers so it's smooth with very little lint.

--- In janome12000@..., "stresover" <moos@...> wrote:

Is there a way I can stop the clunk every time I start sewing after stopping and not raising the presser foot? I assume not but thought I'd ask. The more features you get, the more clunks you get!

Am using serger thread doing some piecing and the stitch isn't very good on the bottom. I bought some Superior Thread a few years ago and it broke as easy as serger thread so have been using serger thread sometimes for piecing. What do you think about serger thread for piecing? It's nice and thin to get an accurate seam allowance.


MBX Cross Stitch add on question

GLENDA T
 

Does any one have the cross stitch add on installed with the MBX program?  I am trying to figure out how to download the manual for it so I can print it out.  Cannot see a file that is the manual on the CD that came with it.  Thank you for any help.
Glenda
 


clunk

stresover <moos@...>
 

Is there a way I can stop the clunk every time I start sewing after stopping and not raising the presser foot? I assume not but thought I'd ask. The more features you get, the more clunks you get!

Am using serger thread doing some piecing and the stitch isn't very good on the bottom. I bought some Superior Thread a few years ago and it broke as easy as serger thread so have been using serger thread sometimes for piecing. What do you think about serger thread for piecing? It's nice and thin to get an accurate seam allowance.


Re: MBX Problems!!!!! OOps

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

Ah, that's even better. There's nothing you can do in HorizonLink to mess up your computer. I'll be the first to admit that it's not the most user friendly program Janome's ever done, and you might find it to be user hostile to some extent. But it's also quite benign with regard to your computer, so there's not harm whatever in just firing it up and playing. You'll learn much doing this, and we're here to help if you get bogged down. Enjoy!

--- In janome12000@..., "HDD" <hddcreation@...> wrote:


OOPS!
I was thinking of and referring to HORIZON LINK!
Same worries though re same reasons!
Cheers
Heather


Re: MBX Problems!!!!! OOps

mcmaster_heather
 

OOPS!
I was thinking of and referring to HORIZON LINK!
Same worries though re same reasons!
Cheers
Heather

--- In janome12000@..., "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@...> wrote:

In my experience those who think they are computer experts have the most problems. That's because they charge ahead without reading instructions, and then when problems occur they immediately react without thinking, making the problems even worse. Yes, you can get over this. Start by getting yourself a safety net. Make a complete *image* backup of your computer to an external disk drive. This is something everyone should do anyway, so it's not wasted effort. One of my favorite programs for image backups is this one:
http://www.acronis.com/homecomputing/products/trueimage/
This way, even if things go horribly wrong, you can put your computer back like it was.

After you've made your backup, insert the MBX DVD in your computer and begin the installation. Read each and every screen before clicking the NEXT button, and be sure to check all the options except those involving languages you won't need. When you've done that you should be ready to go. Use the included DVD by Trevor Conquergood and explore the program. Take deep breaths and ENJOY learning something new. Learn the tools and use the program, and soon you'll have all your family and friends pestering you to embroider things for them.

Remember the old saying - Buy a woman a vacuum cleaner and she'll kick you where the sun don't shine. Buy her an embroidery machine and you won't see her for days at a time! That may not be quite how it goes, as I'm paraphrasing from memory. In any case, please keep us informed on your progress, and we in turn shall cheer your efforts!

--- In janome12000@..., "HDD" <hddcreation@> wrote:

Hi I just wanted to put a post in on this thread. I have had my 1200 since Dec. Done little or no embroidery YET. And HAVEN"T installed the MBX program.
Why you ask - because I am not overly computer confident and I have been put off by all the issues I read about on the forum.
Can I get over this Jim???
Personnally I am not sure!

Heather
QLD Australia


Re: skipping colour in horizon link

maggie cooper
 

--- In janome12000@..., "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@...> wrote:

They speak English in Scotland???? You could have fooled me! Before we closed the shop we had a couple from Scotland as customers. Diane and I would both listen to them, then compare notes to see if we could decipher what was said! As the might have said, our understanding gang aft aglay. (Apologies to Robert Burns!)
ROFL, all Scottish schools teach the Queens English, which is NOT the version coomonly known as Standard English. The closest example I can think of right now is the German, High German and Low German. The Scots still pronounce the H as in what, where, when, why, the English don't. But I will agree if you get a couple of Scots talking quickly in their local dialect, forget trying to understand it. Its usually a mix of gallic, English, colloquiel words and depending on their homeplace can be sharp and hard or soft and lilting. Then again I used to find it hard to tune into some Americans, and would get confused by things like sidewalk for pavement, creek for stream, yard for garden, its true we are divided by our shared language.
Maggie C