Date   

Re: skipping colour in horizon link

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

Basically what you want to do is delete a color. (Or in English, colour.) HorizonLink does not offer this feature, nor can you do it in the machine's EDIT section. You must, as you stated, skip the colour, er color, when stitching out the design. Now I'm off to Amazon to see if I can find an English to English dictionary!

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "marianne_bags" <marianne_bags@...> wrote:

Hi,
I thought I had this sussed, but no ! What i would like to be able to do is when editing change a colour so it is not stitched out or skipped. Or maybe you can only do that by skipping the colour when stitching out ?


skipping colour in horizon link

marianne_bags <marianne_bags@...>
 

Hi,
I thought I had this sussed, but no ! What i would like to be able to do is when editing change a colour so it is not stitched out ir skipped. Or maybe you can only do that by skipping the colour when stitching out ?


Re: MBX Problems!!!!!

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

Aaack!!! Your dealer did you no favors! The usual uninstall/reinstall shuffle should not be used with MBX. It will prevent the Corel option from reinstalling correctly. You may need help from Janome to get it reinstalled, as there are some internal Windows settings that need to be adjusted.

The sudden freezing up could be from many different things. If you've had your computer for a while (3 years or more) it could be overheating. This comes from accumulated dust and dirt that gets sucked into the computer, and sometimes the cooling fan itself stops working. You may not notice at all until you use a program that requires a lot of CPU power, which Digitizer MBX definitely does. The computer chip inside the computer monitors the temperature, and if it gets too high it will stop working to prevent itself from being damaged.

If your computer is a desktop, you can probably remove one of the covers. Unplug everything, take off one or both covers and vacuum out all the dust. Compressed air can be used to blow dust out of crevices, like the fins of the heat sink that the cooling fan rests on. Once everything is clean you can put it back together, but before you put on the final cover plug it in and turn it on just long enough to verify that the fans are all working. If any are not working, replace them.

Laptops are tougher, because they are full of tiny parts and just taking one apart is a big challenge. If the computer is a laptop, have it checked by a professional. Cooling fans often fail in laptops, and need to be replaced.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "sbspicer" <sbspicer@...> wrote:

Hi there
I sure hope some one can help me, I was using MBX this morning (UK) when suddenly it stared freezing up for no apparent reason, I switched PC off/on several times and neither time would the programme open again.
I called my dealer who said to uninstall and then re install programme,
I have been trying this and settings etc for around 8 hours now and ready for pulling my hair out,any help would be very gratefully received.
TIA everyone.
Kind Regards
Sandra


Re: Embroidery satin stitching tension

Inna
 

Thanks for the question asked and the information given. I was to the point of dragging my tank, sixty miles each way to the dealer.
With Jim's directions was able to adjust bobbin tension. Now the back of my embroidery is showing the right amount of bobbing thread.

Inna


MBX Problems!!!!!

sbspicer
 

Hi there
I sure hope some one can help me, I was using MBX this morning (UK) when suddenly it stared freezing up for no apparent reason, I switched PC off/on several times and neither time would the programme open again.
I called my dealer who said to uninstall and then re install programme,
I have been trying this and settings etc for around 8 hours now and ready for pulling my hair out,any help would be very gratefully received.
TIA everyone.
Kind Regards
Sandra


Re: Piecing Question-suggestion and another question!

Cheryl Paul
 

Oh, Barbara Jean, can't you imagine the fun we'd have. I agree with you but I'm sure I'd be one of those that forgot to change something and end up with a broken needle or two. So far I've been lucky. One time I forgot to change the plate on my Horizon 7700 and hobbled my fabric to the foot and needle plate when I changed to zig zag - lucky that the default was the same width. Can you imagine how cross I was when the fabric didn't feed. I was also stupidly angry at the machine - like "what's wrong with this thing?" mad.

I'm glad we challenge the designers - they need our input so that everything gets improved with our machines and the next ones to come.

Cheryl - Saskatoon

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "gbmko" <gbmko@...> wrote:

Speaking of "straight stitch foot", quilting, etc, first of all I want to say I absolutely love the 9mm stitch width for the beautiful decorative stitches, BUT, when I do a pattern that has 12 points coming together, I haven't even attempted it on the 12000, as I don't think I'd get the perfection I attain when I use up to a 5.5 mm width machine only, as I want the straight stitch plate, and the 1/4 inch foot, and for the fabric to be going over both feed dogs, which just isn't possible with a center needle position on a 9 mm machine sewing a 1/4 inch seam. So, to be perfect, the included straight stitch/embroidery plate, needed to have a puka (Hawaiian for hole)on the right at the scant 1/4 inch needle position (or a seperate plate?), with a straight stitch 1/4 inch foot! Ah, if the Janome designers just included those of us in this group, imagine what the machine would include and be capable of doing...or we would in reality probably just drive them crazy! Barbara Jean

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@> wrote:
And yes, it's puzzling why a machine that has had so much attention paid to quilting would not come with a straight stitch foot!


classes on Janome 12000

Susie <mssewsue@...>
 

Hi
can someone tell me if there are any advance classes on the Janome 12000 or online classes.
thanks
susie
northern ca


Re: Piecing Question-suggestion and another question!

gbmko
 

Speaking of "straight stitch foot", quilting, etc, first of all I want to say I absolutely love the 9mm stitch width for the beautiful decorative stitches, BUT, when I do a pattern that has 12 points coming together, I haven't even attempted it on the 12000, as I don't think I'd get the perfection I attain when I use up to a 5.5 mm width machine only, as I want the straight stitch plate, and the 1/4 inch foot, and for the fabric to be going over both feed dogs, which just isn't possible with a center needle position on a 9 mm machine sewing a 1/4 inch seam. So, to be perfect, the included straight stitch/embroidery plate, needed to have a puka (Hawaiian for hole)on the right at the scant 1/4 inch needle position (or a seperate plate?), with a straight stitch 1/4 inch foot! Ah, if the Janome designers just included those of us in this group, imagine what the machine would include and be capable of doing...or we would in reality probably just drive them crazy! Barbara Jean

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@...> wrote:
And yes, it's puzzling why a machine that has had so much attention paid to quilting would not come with a straight stitch foot!


Re: Another question

Anne <csarina43@...>
 

That was the problem with the cuhsion cover I was quilting. but when I switched to the hopper foot and ordinary stitching the tension was perfect......using the T shirt quilting key the tension was rubbish.

I will try tightening the needle tension and see hoe it goes. I have finished the cover now, but have another one to make. I'll make up a sandwich with the wadding and see if I can get it any better.

I will also use the straight stitch plate rather than the embroidery plate, see if that helps.

I was using ther same thread in the bobbin as in the needle.


Re: Embroidery satin stitching tension

Donna Morton
 

I’m curious to know which brand/type of embroidery thread you have selected in the SET menu as your default thread.  If it is Janome Acrylic, then the default tension is lower than for the polyester and the other brands of rayon thread.  If you are using Janome Acrylic, try changing to another brand for your default.
 
Donna M
Canada
 

Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2012 4:08 PM
Subject: [janome12000] Embroidery satin stitching tension
 
 

On the 12000, has anyone had problems with little or no bobbin thread showing on satin stitching segments.  I'm trying to figure out if I have a problem that calls for me to have to haul the "tank" (my affectionate name for the 12000 whenever I try to move it because of the weight) in to the dealer after only 2 weeks of ownership or if this is just an idiosyncrasy of the machine.  I've described what it is doing in more detail below.
 
I've been experimenting with bobbin threads and bobbin holders in the embroidery mode and am finding that on satin stitch columns and filagree style stitching (graduated satin stitching) I'm getting no bobbin thread showing when using the yellow dot bobbin holder and only a thin line if I switch to the red dot bobbin holder.  At first I thought it might be the bobbin thread I was using (the Janome prewound bobbins) so I visited my dealer and when I described the problem, she indicated that they've had a few reports of inconsistencies with the pre-wounds and showed me what they were using in the store with the yellow dot bobbin holder.  It was a much finer, slicker, and thinner thread.  So I got some of it and came home and stitched some more and had pretty much the same results on my test block letters.  So then I decided to try the built in butterfly design with my name in script under it.  The underlay and weave-fill stitches looked fine  from the back with mostly bobbin thread showing and just a little bit of top color.  But anywhere it was doing satin stitching it really pulled the top thread down and around with little or no bobbin color showing.  The results with the red bobbin holder were almost the same, only a slight line of bobbin thread through the back center of the script text.  I switched to sewing mode with the red bobbin case and it appears to be correctly balanced on the regular sewing and decorative stitches (using regular thread in the bobbin that was the same weight as the top).  So is this really a "problem" or something I'm worrying about needlessly?  


Re: Embroidery satin stitching tension

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

Before dragging your "tank" in for service I would recommend a more controlled test. Start with a properly stabilized fabric in the 140 x 140 hoop. Put a full bobbin in the machine, wound with whatever you plan to use, or a pre-wound if that's your choice. Thread the needle with a good quality embroidery thread in a contrasting color from the fabric and bobbin thread. Enter 2 or 3 uppercase letter I, in the medium (18mm) size. Stitch them out in the top of the hoop, leaving space for additional stitchouts. Stitch a sample with each bobbin case, one on each edge of the hoop.

Next remove the hoop and look at the back. Ideally you would see 3 stripes of thread on each letter, with needle, bobbin, needle in equal amounts - 1/3, 1/3, 1/3. If they are close to this, you are done. Use whichever bobbin case gave that result.

If you see too much needle thread, with almost no bobbin showing, then there is not enough needle tension. If you see almost no needle thread, then there is too much needle tension. Touch the SET key, then the Embroidery Mode key (left of the flag). Page 1 of 6, first item, is the adjustment for automatic tension. To increase tension (too much needle showing) touch the + key. If the bottom is mostly bobbin showing, touch the - key. Just make 1 adjustment, then stitch another sample. Repeat until you have it right, or run out of adjustments. If you got it right, go celebrate. If not, you may have to drag the tank in to see your dealer. In that case you should take a bobbin with you so they can test it with what you actually use.

Before you round up a crew of stout men to drag said tank out to your car, you might also try adjusting the yellow dot bobbin case. Since you are happy with the red dot case, DO NOT TOUCH that one. With the yellow dot case, if you have mostly bobbin on the bottom, turn the slotted screw at the 6 o'clock position on the case clockwise about 1/8 of a turn. If the bottom has almost no bobbin showing, make the adjustment counter-clockwise. Make only SMALL changes and test after each one. If you don't see anything changing after 3 adjustments, or you have adjusted the screw as much as 1/2 turn, then it's time to see the dealer. If you get it right, rejoice and use the yellow dot case for embroidery.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, Pixey Mosley <pixeyam@...> wrote:

On the 12000, has anyone had problems with little or no bobbin thread showing on satin stitching segments.  I'm trying to figure out if I have a problem that calls for me to have to haul the "tank" (my affectionate name for the 12000 whenever I try to move it because of the weight) in to the dealer after only 2 weeks of ownership or if this is just an idiosyncrasy of the machine.  I've described what it is doing in more detail below.
 
I've been experimenting with bobbin threads and bobbin holders in the embroidery mode and am finding that on satin stitch columns and filagree style stitching (graduated satin stitching) I'm getting no bobbin thread showing when using the yellow dot bobbin holder and only a thin line if I switch to the red dot bobbin holder.  At first I thought it might be the bobbin thread I was using (the Janome prewound bobbins) so I visited my dealer and when I described the problem, she indicated that they've had a few reports of inconsistencies with the pre-wounds and showed me what they were using in the store with the yellow dot bobbin holder.  It was a much finer, slicker, and thinner thread.  So I got some of it and came home and stitched some more and had pretty much the same results on my test block letters.  So then I decided to try the built in butterfly design with my name in script under it.  The underlay and weave-fill stitches looked fine 
from the back with mostly bobbin thread showing and just a little bit of top color.  But anywhere it was doing satin stitching it really pulled the top thread down and around with little or no bobbin color showing.  The results with the red bobbin holder were almost the same, only a slight line of bobbin thread through the back center of the script text.  I switched to sewing mode with the red bobbin case and it appears to be correctly balanced on the regular sewing and decorative stitches (using regular thread in the bobbin that was the same weight as the top).  So is this really a "problem" or something I'm worrying about needlessly?   


Re: Another question

Vikki Youngmeyer
 

I’ve sewn on Janome 1600, 6500, 6600, Heart  and 3160 models and in all cases I’ve had to increase the upper tension. So it doesn’t surprise me that the 12000 requires an increase in tension. As to the mechanics behind it as to why I’ve had to do this, I’ve not investigated it. It’s what it is! Fabric, batting and thread all fit into the formula, but I haven’t figured out the relationship. Once I do, should I pursue it, I’ll sell it to Janome! Right!

 

Vikki Youngmeyer

Houston, TX

 


Re: Another question

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

That's not surprising. Janome bobbin thread is intended for use in embroidery and provides more than normal tension. That would cause loose stitches on the back. You might be better off using a finer bobbin thread, like Superior Bottom Line. More than likely you would then not have to make any tension adjustments.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Sherry Martin" <shejmartin@...> wrote:

I usually use fairly thin top thread when quilting and Janome bobbin thread a lot of the time. I find that when I use the T shirt quilting-free quilting key I usually have to increase the tension quite a bit or the stitches on the back are too loose. I do a test sample on a scrap quilt sandwich using the same batting I am using in the quilt. But after I get the tension right, this is the easiest machine I've ever owned to free motion quilt on.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@> wrote:

The QV and QO feet work best on thinner quilts, while PD-H (the hopping foot) works best for high loft quilts. Either will work with the straight stitch needle plate, but with PD-H you must be careful not to change from the center needle position. For best tension use the Application key (T-shirt) and choose Quilting -> Free Quilting. Straight stitches 1 & 2 will work with the straight stitch plate, but not the zigzag stitches 1 & 2.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Anne" <csarina43@> wrote:

Can you use the straight stitch needle plate when free motion quilting?????

Yesterday I tired using the free motion quilting programme and the clear foot on the 12000, I did not like it at all, the tension was awful especially on curves with long stitches pulled through to the back making it look loopy. So I changed to FMQ the old way by dropping the feed dogs and using what I call the hopper quilting foot, much better result.

It then occured to me that you could use the straight stitch plate as you are moving the fabric and the needle is just going up and down....


Embroidery satin stitching tension

Pixey
 

On the 12000, has anyone had problems with little or no bobbin thread showing on satin stitching segments.  I'm trying to figure out if I have a problem that calls for me to have to haul the "tank" (my affectionate name for the 12000 whenever I try to move it because of the weight) in to the dealer after only 2 weeks of ownership or if this is just an idiosyncrasy of the machine.  I've described what it is doing in more detail below.
 
I've been experimenting with bobbin threads and bobbin holders in the embroidery mode and am finding that on satin stitch columns and filagree style stitching (graduated satin stitching) I'm getting no bobbin thread showing when using the yellow dot bobbin holder and only a thin line if I switch to the red dot bobbin holder.  At first I thought it might be the bobbin thread I was using (the Janome prewound bobbins) so I visited my dealer and when I described the problem, she indicated that they've had a few reports of inconsistencies with the pre-wounds and showed me what they were using in the store with the yellow dot bobbin holder.  It was a much finer, slicker, and thinner thread.  So I got some of it and came home and stitched some more and had pretty much the same results on my test block letters.  So then I decided to try the built in butterfly design with my name in script under it.  The underlay and weave-fill stitches looked fine  from the back with mostly bobbin thread showing and just a little bit of top color.  But anywhere it was doing satin stitching it really pulled the top thread down and around with little or no bobbin color showing.  The results with the red bobbin holder were almost the same, only a slight line of bobbin thread through the back center of the script text.  I switched to sewing mode with the red bobbin case and it appears to be correctly balanced on the regular sewing and decorative stitches (using regular thread in the bobbin that was the same weight as the top).  So is this really a "problem" or something I'm worrying about needlessly?   


Re: Another question

Sherry Martin
 

I usually use fairly thin top thread when quilting and Janome bobbin thread a lot of the time. I find that when I use the T shirt quilting-free quilting key I usually have to increase the tension quite a bit or the stitches on the back are too loose. I do a test sample on a scrap quilt sandwich using the same batting I am using in the quilt. But after I get the tension right, this is the easiest machine I've ever owned to free motion quilt on.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@...> wrote:

The QV and QO feet work best on thinner quilts, while PD-H (the hopping foot) works best for high loft quilts. Either will work with the straight stitch needle plate, but with PD-H you must be careful not to change from the center needle position. For best tension use the Application key (T-shirt) and choose Quilting -> Free Quilting. Straight stitches 1 & 2 will work with the straight stitch plate, but not the zigzag stitches 1 & 2.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Anne" <csarina43@> wrote:

Can you use the straight stitch needle plate when free motion quilting?????

Yesterday I tired using the free motion quilting programme and the clear foot on the 12000, I did not like it at all, the tension was awful especially on curves with long stitches pulled through to the back making it look loopy. So I changed to FMQ the old way by dropping the feed dogs and using what I call the hopper quilting foot, much better result.

It then occured to me that you could use the straight stitch plate as you are moving the fabric and the needle is just going up and down....


Re: Another question

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

The QV and QO feet work best on thinner quilts, while PD-H (the hopping foot) works best for high loft quilts. Either will work with the straight stitch needle plate, but with PD-H you must be careful not to change from the center needle position. For best tension use the Application key (T-shirt) and choose Quilting -> Free Quilting. Straight stitches 1 & 2 will work with the straight stitch plate, but not the zigzag stitches 1 & 2.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Anne" <csarina43@...> wrote:

Can you use the straight stitch needle plate when free motion quilting?????

Yesterday I tired using the free motion quilting programme and the clear foot on the 12000, I did not like it at all, the tension was awful especially on curves with long stitches pulled through to the back making it look loopy. So I changed to FMQ the old way by dropping the feed dogs and using what I call the hopper quilting foot, much better result.

It then occured to me that you could use the straight stitch plate as you are moving the fabric and the needle is just going up and down....


Another question

Anne <csarina43@...>
 

Can you use the straight stitch needle plate when free motion quilting?????

Yesterday I tired using the free motion quilting programme and the clear foot on the 12000, I did not like it at all, the tension was awful especially on curves with long stitches pulled through to the back making it look loopy. So I changed to FMQ the old way by dropping the feed dogs and using what I call the hopper quilting foot, much better result.

It then occured to me that you could use the straight stitch plate as you are moving the fabric and the needle is just going up and down....


Re: Piecing Question-suggestion and another question!

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

You're right, there is confusion. Because the VD foot is narrow, it seems like it should be a straight stitch foot. But if you look at it, there is a 9mm wide opening in that foot. A true straight stitch foot has only a single hole for use in center needle position. Until you can get the straight stitch foot mentioned in my post below, you can use the center needle position with the ED foot and straight stitch plate without having to worry about the fabric being pushed down through the hole. And yes, it's puzzling why a machine that has had so much attention paid to quilting would not come with a straight stitch foot!

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Cheryl" <capaul@...> wrote:

Hi,

I think there may be some confusion here. My MC12000 came with a single or skinny single flex foot and one attachment - the zipper foot but it is not a straight stitch only foot and the wider dual flex foot and a 1/4" and maybe another (can't remember as I purchased others later). It will do all the decorative stitches too, but can get in closer to what you are sewing more easily. What was asked is, straight stitch ONLY foot and that did not come with my machine - it is an EXTRA that was made available shortly after the machine was launched. It has a small hole so that fabric can't get pushed down into the bobbin area as easily.

Cheryl - Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Canada

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "janetpiekarski" <jsm1144@> wrote:

No, there really IS a dual feed straight stitch foot. I know this becasue my machine DID come with it. It is called the "VD" foot and it is the other "skinny" foot for the single dual feed foot. The manual lists dual feed-twin and dual feed-single. It SHOULD have come with your machine. The part number is 859835101. Not to be confused with the twin straight stitch foot that Jim may be talking about.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@> wrote:

If you are looking for a dual feed straight stitch foot, that would be STD (part #202102005), which does not come with the machine. There is also a snap-on straight stitch foot ST (part #202083009), and it also does not come with the machine. The only feet that come with the machine that have a single hole are zipper foot E (center position) and Free Motion feet QC and QO.


Re: Piecing Question-suggestion and another question!

Cheryl Paul
 

Hi,

I think there may be some confusion here. My MC12000 came with a single or skinny single flex foot and one attachment - the zipper foot but it is not a straight stitch only foot and the wider dual flex foot and a 1/4" and maybe another (can't remember as I purchased others later). It will do all the decorative stitches too, but can get in closer to what you are sewing more easily. What was asked is, straight stitch ONLY foot and that did not come with my machine - it is an EXTRA that was made available shortly after the machine was launched. It has a small hole so that fabric can't get pushed down into the bobbin area as easily.

Cheryl - Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Canada

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "janetpiekarski" <jsm1144@...> wrote:

No, there really IS a dual feed straight stitch foot. I know this becasue my machine DID come with it. It is called the "VD" foot and it is the other "skinny" foot for the single dual feed foot. The manual lists dual feed-twin and dual feed-single. It SHOULD have come with your machine. The part number is 859835101. Not to be confused with the twin straight stitch foot that Jim may be talking about.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@> wrote:

If you are looking for a dual feed straight stitch foot, that would be STD (part #202102005), which does not come with the machine. There is also a snap-on straight stitch foot ST (part #202083009), and it also does not come with the machine. The only feet that come with the machine that have a single hole are zipper foot E (center position) and Free Motion feet QC and QO.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Liz" <dse7sew@> wrote:





The Acufeed straight foot comes with the machine
I'm having a senior moment.... what # is the foot on the list of contents page in Manual. I can't find a SS foot. Liz


Re: Piecing Question-suggestion and another question!

janetpiekarski
 

No, there really IS a dual feed straight stitch foot. I know this becasue my machine DID come with it. It is called the "VD" foot and it is the other "skinny" foot for the single dual feed foot. The manual lists dual feed-twin and dual feed-single. It SHOULD have come with your machine. The part number is 859835101. Not to be confused with the twin straight stitch foot that Jim may be talking about.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@...> wrote:

If you are looking for a dual feed straight stitch foot, that would be STD (part #202102005), which does not come with the machine. There is also a snap-on straight stitch foot ST (part #202083009), and it also does not come with the machine. The only feet that come with the machine that have a single hole are zipper foot E (center position) and Free Motion feet QC and QO.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Liz" <dse7sew@> wrote:





The Acufeed straight foot comes with the machine
I'm having a senior moment.... what # is the foot on the list of contents page in Manual. I can't find a SS foot. Liz