Date   

Re: Twin Needles

Anne Parker
 

Cas

I really don't think the Heirloom twin needle is the right thing to use for unwoven fabrics, especially heavy ones.  The Heirloom twin needles, in which one has wings, as well as the single twin needle, are traditionally meant for sewing on lightweight fabric such as batitse, organza, organdie etc with very fine thread (a fine bobbin thread is good).  The technique is meant to be used for the sort of things you find on christening gowns, ring pillows etc and the needle pushes the weave of the fabric apart - not to say you couldn't experiment - I'm all for that! :0).  The type of stitches used means the needles repeatedly enter the same hole, thus ensuring that the fine sewing thread holds the fabric threads apart. You can actually achieve similar results using a number 18/110 universal needle, though you would need to work out how you are going to achieve the same pattern with only one needle. (but very useful on straight stitch only machines with only a small needle hole).

There are useful videos on You-tube if you want to following this up - and if you are 'into' Heirloom sewing I recommend Pauline Inesons book -  http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pauline-Ineson-Heirloom-Techniques-Beautiful/dp/B006W40LMU/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1455904191&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=pauline+inestonoe - with over 35 sewing techniques.

For suede you would probably need a Jeans needle, or even a Leather needle that was able to punch holes in the fabric as it sews.  I've never sewn on suede, but I have sewn on PVC and sailing canvas and for that I use a number 14/90 or 16/100 Jeans needle as I am usually using v69 UV stable marine thread which is a thicker bonded polyester thread (the numbering system is different to domestic thread and v69 is thicker than a number 30 cotton thread)

Anne
www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

https://www.flickr.com/photos/94302460@N03/sets/

"Live like someone left the gate open". Kimberly Burnham

 


Rewind NEB bobbin onto Janome bobbin

Linda Rayburn
 

I have so many full NEB bobbins that I can no longer use since I bought my 15000. Would it be ok or advisable to rewind those bobbins onto Janome bobbins?


Thanks!

Linda


Calming down after watching paint dry for 10 hours, Jim says:

There is absolutely nothing wrong with winding them onto Janome bobbins. They contain very good bobbin thread, if you have the patience to do that!


Re: We interrupt your normal list reading to tell you ...

cmgazerro@...
 

Jim,
LOL.  Love your humor.  Gets point across in interesting ways.
Carolyn


Re: Reverse stitch with Accufeed?

Terry L
 

Thank you for this.  I had no idea.  I have been happily using the Accufeed foot just with piecing and like the results I get from the foot, but didn't even know about "activating" it.  I'll have to test it out to see what the results are like.
I am always learning new things here, thank you!
Terry



From: "comara0202@... [janome12000]"
To: janome12000@...
Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2016 9:48 PM
Subject: [janome12000] Re: Reverse stitch with Accufeed?

 
How do you activate the acufeed system?  I have the 12K.  Does putting the Acufeed attachment automatically activate the 'system'?  I've not found anything in the manual about an activation.  In fact, the manual barely mentions Acufeed.  I used Acufeed for stitch in ditch or one of the decorative stitches on my quilts.  Thanks for any help understanding this.
Carole - Colorado Springs

Activating his sometimes-reliable AcuType system, Jim attempts this:
There are actually two parts to this. Attaching an AcuFeed foot does give you the dual feed (aka even feed, aka walking foot) effect, exactly the same as if you attached an even feed/walking foot to the machine. However if you touch the Dual Feed button (page 29, item 4) you tell the machine to engage the system that allows the top and bottom fabrics to feed at different rates depending on the setting of the Dual Feed Balancing dial (page 31). Touching that button also disables decorative stitches that have a reverse cycle in them, because they may not stitch correctly when dual feeding is active.



Re: Hatch Embroidery Software

Meryl Margolies
 

Thanks for that info. I've been hesitant.

What's your take on the product vs. MBX 5.0?


With a take that usually leans toward the absurd, Jim says:

It's somewhat like driving two different brands of car. They both have the same things, but they may be in slightly different places. Comparing the two head to head:


1. Have more than one brand of embroidery machine? Advantage: Hatch


2. Want ALL the features you can get in embroidery software? Advantage: MBX V5 


3. Want to start small without spending a lot, then add as you can? Advantage: Hatch


4. Want wireless connectivity with your MC15000? Advantage: MBX V5


5. Have MBX 4.x and want all the same features in an upgrade? Advantage: MBX V5


6. Need graphics software along with digitizing? Advantage: MBX V5, which includes Corel DRAW


Note that with BOTH of these programs you cannot install on as many computers as you wish. We've been told that MBX V5 allows two installations and I'm guessing that Hatch will also. This covers the case where you want to use the program on a desktop and a laptop, or a single reinstallation after a hardware failure. In cases where things aren't working right the time-honored solution has been to uninstall and reinstall, but that's not a good strategy with these products. I'm sure that Wilcom will provide a means for legitimate owners to reinstall in reasonable cases, but that will require a lot more effort than just moving a dongle from one computer to another.


Also be advised that the trial versions of both products "phone home" to authenticate and advise of time remaining. Purchased and installed products will also check for updates online. I have verified that Hatch will still function without an Internet connection, but at least one member using the trial version of V5 has had issues with crashing when an update connection cannot be established.


Re: Bobbin winding /needle threader

JOLLYNE TOSTE <jtoste@...>
 

Scroll the past few emails he just answered!

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 19, 2016, at 5:47 AM, JoAnn Novak vinjosew@... [janome12000] <janome12000@...> wrote:

 

  I missed Jim's answer.  Where can I find this information??
  JoAnn
Life's biggest decision is what you do with Jesus.


 

I have had off/on success with bobbin winding and the needle threader.  Thanks to all have commented on both these issues (and to Jim), I have successfully accomplished both these tasks.  I now use the LOCK key on my 12K to engage the needle threader.  I have also found that Klasse needles are longer than Janome, Organ and Schmetz.  Now I know that the needle threader fits perfectly in the needle hole for needles other than Klasse.  In the past I have not had good results winding the bobbin (on my 6600, JEM and 12K), tension was soft, didn't wind evenly.  I now use the method recommended by Jim and have had perfectly wound bobbins, thank you very much.  This last time, since my bobbin thread was a different color than top thread, I did not remove the top spool--just used a side thread holder and threaded through the bobbin 'slits' and had perfect results.  Thank you so much to all have contributed to this forum.

Carole - Colorado Springs



Re: We interrupt your normal list reading to tell you ...

Meryl Margolies
 

It seems that you can choose your machine when you customize Hatch, and will be able to transfer designs to the machine. I have the 12000. so I use a cable. The Hatch manual (http://www.embroideryhelp.net/hatch10/en/setup) says you can do this. I wish I were independently wealthy and could upgrade MBX and get Hatch


Re: We interrupt your normal list reading to tell you ...

Meryl Margolies
 

What is stumpwork, cutwork, and cross stitch embroidery.

Hatch doesn't have it? Will I miss it? Please tell me that cutwork is NOT applique. That would be a deal breaker.


Noting that using a chainsaw for stump work often leads to cut work requiring cross stitches, Jim says:

Stumpwork is a type of 3D embroidery. Cutwork involves using small knives in place of needles to create decorative patterns of holes. This is not to be confused with the teenagers in the mall who have their knees peeking out through holes in their $500 jeans. That's more what you might call "nutwork". Cross stitch is the art of constructing images through stitched crosses (X). Hatch has none of these features, MBX V5 does. Earlier versions of Janome's Digitizer had cutwork and cross stitch as options, but they did not sell very well. That's probably why they are now included, and it gives V5 more features against Hatch.


Question about digitizing & transferring designs

Deb Keldrauk
 

I don't do much  in the way of digitizing, I own Corel Creative DraWings, I purcha$ed it years ago to use with my Pfaff 2170, I have upgraded the software to the latest version but I don't know enough about the software to say that I digitize. I do use it to help me with taking small graphics from ready made designs to use on quilt labels. It's pretty easy to just take what I need and leave the rest so to speak. Hatch sounds good to me and the price is excellent by my track record tells me I don't really need it, and won't use it enough to justify buying it. I also have the EQ Stitch program, I upgraded from EQ7 at Xmas when they had a sale and I have yet to open the program so that's where I am at with software.


There is alot of talk here about USB sticks and Horizon LInk. The only time I have used a USB stick was when I did that last update on my machine. I did use Horizon Link just to see how it all worked, and to hook up my laptop in case I needed it. Other than that I ALWAYS just take my own designs from Creative DraWings, or ones that I have purchased, or older designs that I converted from Pfaff PCS format (and I don't think that I really need to convert it first) and pop them into my Dropbox/Apps/Artistic folder open them in AcuDesign do some final editing or add text, and send them up to my machine wirelessly and stitch them out. I do want to try Acufill "someday" and I think that I will need to use my laptop for that.


FINALLY - Here is my question. Am I missing something by not using a USB stick or Horizon LInk?


I am getting quite a few designs in AcuDesign but they are well organized so I am good with that. I have used dropbox for a long time before my 15000 so I have quite a bit of free space from referring friends and trying add on apps etc. so I feel good to go.


As always I will love to hear what you all have to say,

Thanks,

Deb in CA

 

Missing the original "Rocky and Bulwinkle Show", Jim says:

No, you're not missing anything by not using a USB stick and HorizonLink. AcuDesign does much more. If you should run short of space on your iPad, you can always use the option to have AcuDesign store your design collections in Dropbox. From what you have described I don't see Hatch bringing anything to your party, unless you start digitizing. Keep HorizonLink for when you are ready to use AcuFil, but for embroidery what you're doing is just fine.


Re: Hatch Embroidery Software

Jim Stutsman
 

I have installed MBX 4.5 into the same Windows where I have installed Hatch. Both seem happy to live in the same box, and I was even able to open both programs at the same time without any difficulty. As always, your mileage may vary.


Bobbin winding /needle threader

JoAnn Novak
 

  So sorry I found it.
Life's biggest decision is what you do with Jesus.

On 2/19/2016 7:47 AM, JoAnn Novak wrote:
  I missed Jim's answer.  Where can I find this information??
  JoAnn
Life's biggest decision is what you do with Jesus.

 

I have had off/on success with bobbin winding and the needle threader.  Thanks to all have commented on both these issues (and to Jim), I have successfully accomplished both these tasks.  I now use the LOCK key on my 12K to engage the needle threader.  I have also found that Klasse needles are longer than Janome, Organ and Schmetz.  Now I know that the needle threader fits perfectly in the needle hole for needles other than Klasse.  In the past I have not had good results winding the bobbin (on my 6600, JEM and 12K), tension was soft, didn't wind evenly.  I now use the method recommended by Jim and have had perfectly wound bobbins, thank you very much.  This last time, since my bobbin thread was a different color than top thread, I did not remove the top spool--just used a side thread holder and threaded through the bobbin 'slits' and had perfect results.  Thank you so much to all have contributed to this forum.

Carole - Colorado Springs




Bobbin winding /needle threader

JoAnn Novak
 

  I missed Jim's answer.  Where can I find this information??
  JoAnn
Life's biggest decision is what you do with Jesus.


 

I have had off/on success with bobbin winding and the needle threader.  Thanks to all have commented on both these issues (and to Jim), I have successfully accomplished both these tasks.  I now use the LOCK key on my 12K to engage the needle threader.  I have also found that Klasse needles are longer than Janome, Organ and Schmetz.  Now I know that the needle threader fits perfectly in the needle hole for needles other than Klasse.  In the past I have not had good results winding the bobbin (on my 6600, JEM and 12K), tension was soft, didn't wind evenly.  I now use the method recommended by Jim and have had perfectly wound bobbins, thank you very much.  This last time, since my bobbin thread was a different color than top thread, I did not remove the top spool--just used a side thread holder and threaded through the bobbin 'slits' and had perfect results.  Thank you so much to all have contributed to this forum.

Carole - Colorado Springs



Re: Janome 15000 Workbook

Judy Jackson <judy.j282@...>
 

Apparently it's now out of stock. I had thought if he price was right I would have ordered it. I also emailed Janome UK on the subject but was told they didn't stock it. Oh well I guess I didn't really need a workbook....... Judy, Cornwall

Sent from my iPad

On 18 Feb 2016, at 15:29, windowdressings90@... [janome12000] <janome12000@...> wrote:

 

 Amazon carries it. I have ordered from the French and German Amazon site before. You do wait a little longer and pay a bit for the shipping. See you can place it in your cart, Amazon will let you know if it is possible for you to buy.



Re: We interrupt your normal list reading to tell you ...

Meryl Margolies
 

Thank you. I now have even more to think about. On a side not, I have had Embird for years, but have never used it to do more than convert an occasional design. I know it's a powerful program, but I just have never taken the opportunity to learn it.


Re: Janome 15000 Workbook

audrey chase <Contessa@...>
 

Many thanks Linda.

Sadly, the book is unavailable from Amazon at the moment.

I will keep trying.

Thanks again.

Audrey


Re: We interrupt your normal list reading to tell you ...

maggie cooper
 

Ceil, I honestly don't know as I don't own a 12 or 15000 machine,  I chose not to buy either as I have an industrial 15 needle machine , a sewing only machine the 8200, and a 9900. So I'm completely blind when it comes to the Horizon link.
Maggie Cooper UK


Re: We interrupt your normal list reading to tell you ...

maggie cooper
 

Virginia, the design icons change, but the formats wouldn't have changed. Did you use Easy design to send the design to the USB or Hatch, did you use Transfer or Export, as I haven't had problems exporting a stitch file to a usb to use on my 9900, I haven't tried the Transfer.

The reason the design file icons change is because Hatch was the most recent embroidery software installed, V5 and Hatch use the identical icons so all my embroidery files wear the white square with blue D on them, including native Embird files. I'm too lazy to tell my computer to choose specific programs to open certain files or change the icons. I don't know why your machine refused to recognise the design, I will flag it up but without more information I doubt that will enough for the folks at Wilcom to replicate it.
mags


Bobbin winding /needle threader

Carole OMara
 

I have had off/on success with bobbin winding and the needle threader.  Thanks to all have commented on both these issues (and to Jim), I have successfully accomplished both these tasks.  I now use the LOCK key on my 12K to engage the needle threader.  I have also found that Klasse needles are longer than Janome, Organ and Schmetz.  Now I know that the needle threader fits perfectly in the needle hole for needles other than Klasse.  In the past I have not had good results winding the bobbin (on my 6600, JEM and 12K), tension was soft, didn't wind evenly.  I now use the method recommended by Jim and have had perfectly wound bobbins, thank you very much.  This last time, since my bobbin thread was a different color than top thread, I did not remove the top spool--just used a side thread holder and threaded through the bobbin 'slits' and had perfect results.  Thank you so much to all have contributed to this forum.

Carole - Colorado Springs


Re: Reverse stitch with Accufeed?

Carole OMara
 

How do you activate the acufeed system?  I have the 12K.  Does putting the Acufeed attachment automatically activate the 'system'?  I've not found anything in the manual about an activation.  In fact, the manual barely mentions Acufeed.  I used Acufeed for stitch in ditch or one of the decorative stitches on my quilts.  Thanks for any help understanding this.
Carole - Colorado Springs

Activating his sometimes-reliable AcuType system, Jim attempts this:
There are actually two parts to this. Attaching an AcuFeed foot does give you the dual feed (aka even feed, aka walking foot) effect, exactly the same as if you attached an even feed/walking foot to the machine. However if you touch the Dual Feed button (page 29, item 4) you tell the machine to engage the system that allows the top and bottom fabrics to feed at different rates depending on the setting of the Dual Feed Balancing dial (page 31). Touching that button also disables decorative stitches that have a reverse cycle in them, because they may not stitch correctly when dual feeding is active.


Re: Winding Embroidery Thread onto Bobbin

m1955seamstress
 

Thanks, Jim.  I'm not sure what I was doing wrong but I kept doing it.  I took a break from it and tried again just before I saw your reply.  This time I heard a click.  So I surely wasn't getting it in there just right.  Can't believe it but maybe the thread makes a difference?  

Then I found out I needed to change my embroidery settings on my machine.  I watched you and Diane's video and changed that.  I had shut off my machine after being frustrated and found out I had to forward through to stitch number 38,609!  Lesson learned.  I now have the resume setting turned on!

Thanks so much for all your help!  Now I finish this FSL project.  Making a lace envelope I found on Urban Threads.  Very pretty.  Maybe I will post after I complete the project!  This last piece "only" takes 73 minutes.  Lol.

Marla

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 18, 2016, at 6:59 PM, m1955seamstress@... [janome12000] <janome12000@...> wrote:

 

Hi, I am having trouble winding some Sulky embroidery thread evenly onto my bobbin.  Maybe this issue has already been addressed but I didn't see a conversation about it.  I had some success yesterday but today after numerous attempts I'm not having any success.  I looked back in my manual to check to make sure I was missing something.  I finally decided to use regular thread as a test and it wound evenly.  But when I go to wind my embroidery thread it's a mess!


It's probably user error on my part but not sure what to do.  I took this little cover off to make sure no threads caught in there but did not see anything.


Any suggestions?  I'm doing free standing lace and the site I purchased this design said to use the same thread in my bobbin.  So close to being done too.  :(


Thanks,

Marla


Attempting to stop sulking, while still feeling sulky, Jim says:

The main difference between your Sulky embroidery thread and regular sewing thread is the fiber content and twist, and maybe the weight of the thread. I'm not surprised that you didn't find anything under the cover you removed, as the thread doesn't go through there when winding a bobbin. Here are some things to check:


1. The spool cap. You MUST use the SMALL cap with Sulky. If you use the large one the thread will pull way out, and may not wind well at all.


2. When you thread for winding, as you go around the area marked with the dotted line, hold onto the thread at the spool end and pull the thread at the other end to make sure it goes under a small tension spring that you cannot see. You should feel a *SLIGHT* pull as you pull the thread out of that area.


3. It may help to slow down the bobbin winder with the slide control.

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