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Re: Needle Threader 15000--now needle threaders in general and corre

Anne Parker <annegparker@...>
 

I always read the manual - several times before I use any machine including sewing machines.  In fact for the 15000 I had read it about 4 times before I even got the machine, and always search the PDF if I get stuck.

The manual for the 15000 states on page 16

NOTE:
The needle threader can be used with a #11 to #16
needle.
Thread size 50 to 90 is recommended.
Do not use thread size 30 or thicker.


I would have been amazed if Janome had advertised a threader on an embroidery capable machine,  that they would not recommend using on size 11 needles -  especially when it advises to use 'its' size 11 needles for embroidery.

I don't generally have any issue using a size 11 with any size 40 thread (which appears to be a de facto standard for machine embroidery)  I do not use it for any smaller needles or any thicker thread, or any metallics.

The few issues I have had are when the the last guide is not quite aligned left to right above the needle.  It is attached to the needle clamp so easy to get out of line when you are changing needles.  When not aligned just right I suspect the thread is not at quite at the right angle in its path to the threader for it to be taut enough to be pulled through the eye by the hook. - only my thoughts! :0)

Hope anyone who is having issues gets them sorted soon!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/94302460@N03/sets/

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann


Oiling

bdake@sbcglobal.net
 

Is there a diagram showing where to oil my machine? I know about the wick in the bobbin holder but what other areas do I oil?


Hoping to avoid future oil spills, Jim says:

The wick is all you need to oil. Modern machines are completely different from Grandma's treadle and there is no place or need to oil anywhere else.


Re: FSL

Marsha
 

Cornelia
When I do FSL I use 2 layers of the fabric type WSS, once I hoop the stabilizer I place pins around the edge of the hoops right where the hoops join. I have never had a bad stitchout using this method. I will upload a photo in the files area to explain. I stitch out lace designs that have a high stitch count too!
Marsha


Re: FSL

mimi jo
 

Linda,some thoughts occur here with lace embroideries.  I hoop Vilene Water Soluble stabilizer (buy mine from Allstitch----not associated therewith) and sometimes float a second layer, anchored with basting stitch before embroidering.  I use matching thread in the bobbin.  Have used 40 weight rayon threads; 60 weight rayon or poly or even 100 weight silk threads.  Have made 12 to 13 inch doilies; continuous lace designs as edging for pillow cases and/or hand towels. On one project where I made a wide continuous fringe attached to continuous lace, the Vilene stabilizer shifted in the hoop ever so slightly resulting in misaligned stitches (repaired with sewing tiny zig zag stitches, manually).  I think in that case the design was also poorly digitized, and I had combined two to three design sets to create a continuous border for largest hoop using digitizing software.  On one of the hoopings, the Vilene was not tight enough, but in all of the two or three hoopings in that project, some misaligned stitches occurred in the same area on the wide fringe(concluding the design was poorly digitized....one of those on sale try me specials.  Most of the lace designs I have successfully stitched without issues have been purchased from Zundt designs, excellent digitizing.  None of the lace designs digitized by Zundt have shifted, even with multiple hoopings joining the lace to make continuous edging.  (I have edited the designs to stitch as a continuous border, otherwise, the design sections as purchased are joined manually per the Zundt instructions...Note, I am not associated with Zundt.)  The doilies' design (Successfully made a total of 12 charger plate doilies) was purchased from Embroidery Library (no association).  Hope this helps you assess probably causes for your problematic free standing lace project.  Happy Stitching, Jo Ann


Re: FSL

cmgazerro@...
 

Because it is  a FSL design and very dense, I would try more layers of stabilizer.

Carolyn


Re: FSL

Linda M
 

What type of stabilizer are you using?  I use H20 Gone, only one layer..  I don't use film because it tends to tear during stitching...
 
Linda 
 
 
 
 

-------Original Message-------
 
Date: 12/07/2015 10:17:29 PM
Subject: [janome12000] FSL
 
 

I have attempted FSL two times and both times the stabilizer tore during stitching.  I had to discontinue because continuing would have distorted the design.  I used two layers of stabilizer.  Does anyone have any suggestions????

Cornelia

 


Re: Acufil Design

Barbara Romanufa
 

Thank you. It worked once I put in the Artistic file.


FSL

cornihb@...
 

I have attempted FSL two times and both times the stabilizer tore during stitching.  I had to discontinue because continuing would have distorted the design.  I used two layers of stabilizer.  Does anyone have any suggestions????

Cornelia


FSL Problems

Cornelia Beall <cornihb@...>
 

Help!  I have tried FSL two times and both failed.  The water soluble stabilizer tore both times and I was unable to continue as the design would have been distorted.   I used two layers of stabilizer.  Does anyone have any suggestions????    
Cornelia



Skipped Stitches

Gail
 

I have been trying to do some free motion quilting today and I'm really struggling with skipped stitches.  I am using the Free quilting mode with the open toe free motion foot.  I have Aurifil in the top and bottom line in the bobbin.   I have tried rethreading, switched to Blue dot bobbin holder and straight stitch plate.  I am using a siz 80 Superior top stitch needle and I am about to switch to a 90.  Any other suggestions?


Gail in FL


Jim says:

Janome invented the purple tip needle specifically for this problem. If your dealer doesn't have them you can order them online from a number of dealers.


Acufil Design

Barbara Romanufa
 

I am wondering if there is anyway to get an Acufil design I created into Acu Design.  Thanks for any help.

Wondering about many things, Jim seems to know something about this:
First you need to get the AcuFil design into something that AcuDesign can access. If you have a 15000 the easiest thing to do is to send it to the machine. From there you can import it back into AcuDesign. Otherwise send the design to a USB drive. Next copy the JPX file from the USB drive into Dropbox using this folder path:
     Apps -> Artistic -> EMB -> EmbF
From there you can use the import function of AcuDesign to open it.



Thread Nests

Patty Nelson
 

I have the 15000 model and have thread nests or bird's nests on the underside of my seams.  Is this a result of using the thread cutter and if so, can anything be done to fix it?  I've seen the little bobbin washers that you put underneath bobbins that is supposed to help the bobbin thread glide better, but have not tried them.  Sometimes the thread is in a bigger wad, and sometimes the thread is about an inch long and is more woven through the bobbin side stitching leaving more of a loop.  I really like using the thread cutter.  Any suggestions?


Trying to avoid disturbing the birds, Jim tackles the nest with this:

The thread cutter has nothing to do with this problem, and bobbin washers won't help either. What's going on is that you do not have enough needle tension. I'm guessing that you are probably using the automatic tension, and most likely there is thread debris caught between the tension discs. Our time-honored fix for this is to take a strip of cotton fabric, fold it in half, activate the LOCK function on the machine and slide the folded edge into the tension slot (right side of the thread path) at the top of the machine. Work the strip back and forth to "floss" out whatever may be in there. If this does not resolve the problem you should see your dealer for assistance.


Re: ultra glide plate for 15000 and 8900?

juliadlf1 <no_reply@...>
 

Jim: Why would they not make a ultra glide plate for straight stitch? Just wondering why they have it for just one type of plate and not both.
Thanks,
Julia

Using tea leaves, crystal ball, Magic 8 Ball, Tarot cards and a fortune-telling chicken, Jim falls short:
For any "Why" question involving Janome my answer is always the same - I have no idea. On the Janome dog I am at best a flea, just an insignificant annoyance. Looking at it from a purely business perspective, this plate was not something that their customers clamored for, as they did for the 5 x 7 hoop. So I think we can assume that Janome made the decision to try it and see how it sells. If it does not do well, then that will be the end of it. The way to change this is to ask Janome to make a single hole Ultra Glide plate. After thousands of their customers screamed for the 5 x 7 hoop they made one, so the process works, if not at the speed we might like.


Re: Needle Threader 15000--now needle threaders in general and correct sewing machine needles

Sarah A. Smith <sarahannsmith@...>
 

I know that people have trouble with the needle threader, and it always puzzles me because in the 11 years I’ve used Janomes, I have rarely had an instance where there was a problem, and have never needed repair. I think one factor that many people don’t realize, is that the needle threader does NOT work on needles smaller than size 12, and I’ll bet if you are using a heavy thread like King Tut and a size 12 needle (which is too small for that thread and will lead to shredding), the threader won’t work because there simply isn’t enough room in the eye of the needle to accommodate two thicknesses of thread and the fine wire of the needle threader. The manual advises you about using the threader on a size 12 or larger needle, but I expect most folks (like me) read the manual (maybe) and then forget a lot of it.


Anyway, if you ARE having trouble with your needle threader, first think about your needle (I’m passionate about this and have a whole honkin’ long section in my book on using the correct needle, threading and understanding and troubleshooting tension). Choosing needles is like choosing the correct footwear. You likely wouldn’t wear wool socks and hiking boots to a formal wedding, and wearing high heeled satin pumps to go hiking would be a disaster. Even worse: wearing the wrong size shoes leads to blisters and turned ankles! Same idea with sewing machine needles! Choose the thread you want, then select the appropriate needle to go with the thread (some companies, like Superior, even suggest on the spool the best needle to use!), then quilt. If the needle and thread are too heavy for the threader, you just need to go old school to thread it (or use the handy dandy serger gizzie that Jim mentioned).


For what it is worth, my go-to needle is a Topstitch, usually a size 14 for the 40-wt Poly that I use to quilt. Why? The eye is DOUBLE the size of the eye on most other needles, and larger even than an embroidery needle. IMHO “Quilting” needles are misnamed—they are great for **piecing** but not so good for quilting because the eye is tiny. HTH!




Cheers, Sarah


Check out my DVD: Art Quilt Design: From Photo to Threadwork
Author of bestseller ThreadWork Unraveled
website and blog: http://www.sarahannsmith.com/weblog
e-mail: sarah@sarahannsmith.com


Re: Needle Threader 15000

marie.drozdis <marie.drozdis@...>
 

In addition to the needle threader Jim recommends, I have great success with
the looped wire threaders. You can separate the loop in the threader wide
enough to put a finger or two through it, so it's easy to get the thread
through. I have both hand and eye difficulties and the only problem I
ever had was actually seeing the needle eye. The thread is pulled
right through the eye, so there's no tiny thread loop to have to grab onto.


Just a suggestion. They've saved me a lot of frustration.


http://www.amazon.com/Dritz-SPI-083084-Looped-Needle-Threader-6/dp/B003W0UV2C/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1436697265&sr=8-7&keywords=wire+loop+needle+threader


or, the tiny url
http://tinyurl.com/nngxpxa


MarieD


Re: ultra glide plate for 15000 and 8900?

juliadlf1 <no_reply@...>
 

Jim: . Does Janome make the same type of plate for straight stitch which would fit the 12000? The Easy Glide plate you linked to is the wider plate or what I call the zig zag plate without knowing the more technical name.
Thanks
Julia

Trying to think of a technical way to say it, Jim says:
No.


Re: Needle Threader 15000

DLGolfs <DLGolfs@...>
 

Agreed!!!  It should work all the time OR change the design until it does.

 

From: janome12000@... [mailto:janome12000@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 3:13 PM
To: janome12000@...
Subject: [janome12000] Re: Needle Threader 15000

 

 

Cas

I totally agree with you regarding the point of it!  They use the needle threader as a selling point.  One of the many reasons I wanted a new machine was that I wanted an automatic needle threader as when getting older it gets more difficult, takes more time and is just frustrating.  If it says it has an automatic needle threader that is part of what you are paying for and it should work all the time - not just some of it, or never. Other wise it could say it does all sorts of things it doesn't do and that would be ok - not in my book!  If it's touchy and not reliable they should say so, or not use it as a selling point.

I appreciate that sometimes it is user error, and how finely tunned it has to be - but they should be up front about saying those things, not leave us to find out about it after we have bought the machine.  But I guess that is marketing for you.  Don't believe everything you read!

 

Sorry my rant over! :0)

Hope you get it sorted.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/94302460@N03/sets/


With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann


Re: Needle Threader 15000

ceilsews <no_reply@...>
 

I've been fortunate in that the needle threader in my 15000 v1 has always worked.  That is once I realized the thread had to be pulled into that little spot they call the "hook" in the manual.  I even mistakenly used metallic thread once without thinking that I shouldn't use the needle threader and it worked. 
One day while doing and in the hoop project I hit the needle down button and the needle went into the zipper and broke.  At first it seemed the needle threader was broken as it would not work.  But I kept trying it and pushed the whole unit up and finally it's working again with no problems.  So they can work.  Maybe it's a matter of how they were put on in the factory.   When my dealer checked my machine when I first bought it and before I brought it home, I remember he did check the needle threader.  If someone is buying a new machine they should insist that the needle threader works before leaving their dealer.
Ceil
 


Re: Needle Threader 15000

Vikki Youngmeyer
 

I have found that with the 15000, the needle threader has issues with the Madeira rayon thread I use for embroidery. Here are some situation I have noticed regarding the needle threader not working:  

1)      when thread is not threaded properly thru the thread path – rethread whole path and hit needle up/needle down button

2)      when the needle doesn’t go all the way down after cutting the thread – hit needle up/needle down button usually fixes that issue.

3)      Sometimes it gets persnickety as to where you hold the end of the thread in relation to the threading mechanism. If the mechanism doesn’t rotate properly, the thread won’t be threaded. I have the most luck holding the end of the thread behind the needle assembly.

 

Have had very few problems with 50 weight Mettler, Superior Sew Fine, Aurifil or 40 weight Superior King Tut thread.

 

Vikki

Houston, TX

 

 


Re: Needle Threader 15000

DLGolfs <DLGolfs@...>
 

Just my two cents…..I have NEVER been able to make the threader mentioned below to work.  I have one on my serger with a tilt needle and it still does not work

 

From: janome12000@... [mailto:janome12000@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 11:56 AM
To: janome12000@...
Subject: Re: [janome12000] Re: Needle Threader 15000

 

 

You are soooo correct Jim, have that item as the 11000 was just as bad. I have a Pfaff 2140/70 with a pull down needle threader, works for 15 years now. Unfortunately this type is considered outdated, not computerized, guess that is why it works, ha.  Once you get used to using the hand held threader it goes fast, Claire S.


On 7/10/2015 11:17 AM, Cheryl Paul capaul@... [janome12000] wrote:

 

Hi Cas, Don’t lose sleep over a needle threader - I know that for the cost of the machine they should work 100% of the time. I’ve not had any good luck with mine - presently it works when I put a new size 14 needle in new for a few threads, then it just refuses to work. I’ve had my machine in several times and mostly because of this threader. Eric put in a new one and it is only marginally better than the original. Supposedly Janome did a fix from the Version 1 machine, which I own to the Version 2, which you own and we are both having difficulties, so obviously it wasn’t a total fix. Eric, our technician, told me that needle threaders were a hit and miss at the best of times and in his experience never worked on any machine 100% of the time - his opinion, but I trust it as he is suppose to be one of the best technicians in Canada for Janome/Elna. He repairs all makes and models, within reason. Jim may have seen more models and fixed more machines as he lives in an area of many, many more folks than what we have in Saskatoon. After hearing what Eric had to say, I quit worrying about my needle threader and cuss fairly often because I have to do it manually - I feel it a small price to pay to have the good quality of sewing my 15000 does for me. Cheryl - Saskatoon

 

Limiting his cussing for the evening news, Jim says:

In our 25 years of selling Janome machines, I cannot remember a single model that did not have issues with the needle threader. At least half the problems were owner-induced, but the very nature of the threader makes it insanely fragile and easily damaged. However there is an option for a threader that is very effective and does not require frequent trips to your technician. It's Janome part #200347008 and it looks like this. You just put the thread in, gently push the threader against the needle and slide it down until the blade pushed the thread through the eye. Use the hook to grab it from behind and pull it through. There's also a holder that you can use to put in new needles. This threader is included with many of the Janome sergers. It's available online for $10 to $18, but you can also get it direct from China for less than $5, shipping included. While it's still possible to bend the blade if you push too hard without having it over the eye, I've often been able to straighten it and keep using it. They are cheap enough that you can get several and just toss them if they quit working. This might be the sanity saver that many of you are looking for.

 

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