Date   

Re: Thread coming out of take up lever

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

Changing the needle will have no effect on this problem. You'll need to see your dealer about this. It could be that the check spring needs adjustment, or the eye of the take-up lever may need to be closed up a little bit.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, Lorelei Gustafson <lore@...> wrote:

Yes, this started happening to me today (twice). I rethreaded carefully and slowed the "top" speed. Came out of take-up lever one more time, so, lacking any other ideas, I changed the needle, too. We'll see. I'm sad-glad that someone else has noted this problem.



-----
Lorelei Gustafson
lore@...


bobbin cases and bobbin thread

Barb Stone
 

I contacted Janome via the website as to the differences in the bobbin cases and was told that the 'red' case is used with Janome bobbin thread because the tension is different when using that.

The bobbin thread I have is 60 wt. I see that the Janome is 90 wt. Jim, do you think that, if one is using 90 wt. bobbin thread, the 'red' case can be used? Or must the 'yellow' case be used if anything other than Janome brand thread is in the bobbin?

Barb


Re: horizon link and adobe

gbmko
 

Thank you for your quick reply! I can at least open the PDF's as you described below, and it does have adobe as the "always open with" option. It just isn't recognizing that I have adobe when i try to open it from tools...but thank you for telling me how to find it!

BTW, Windows 7 64 bit for the operating system.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@...> wrote:

Side note to all readers - when posting a computer problem, please note what version of Windows you are using. It makes a difference in the response. Thanks!

First check to see whether you can open ANY PDF with Adobe Reader. If you don't have a PDF to try, you can get to the stitch chart by clicking on "My Computer" -> C drive -> Program Files [XP or 32-bit Windows 7] or Program Files (X86) [64-bit Windows 7] -> Janome -> HorizonLink -> DataFiles. Double click on the PDF. If it does not open, right click on it and choose "Open With" from the pop-up menu. Choose Adobe Reader from the list of programs and check the "Always open files of this type" box. If that does not fix the problem it may be that HorizonLink is checking for the presence of Adobe Reader in such a way that it cannot be detected on your computer. You can also open PDFs with the also-free program Foxit Reader: http://www.foxitsoftware.com/


Re: Thread coming out of take up lever

Lorelei Gustafson <lore@...>
 

Yes, this started happening to me today (twice). I rethreaded carefully and slowed the "top" speed. Came out of take-up lever one more time, so, lacking any other ideas, I changed the needle, too. We'll see. I'm sad-glad that someone else has noted this problem.



-----
Lorelei Gustafson







Re: Calibrate Hoops and Free Arm Hoop

joylaytor
 

Thanks, Jim.  I'll have to take the Free Arm hoop in for replacement and thanks for verifying that we should calibrate all the hoops.
Joy


Re: MBX and Corel question

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

Corel installs as "Corel Draw Essentials X5" under Corel in the Program Files (X86) folder. This should keep it separate from the full graphic suite, and updating the suite from the Corel website will not affect the essentials installed with MBX. All updates to the essentials package will come packaged with MBX updates. The one thing that might get tricky is what program opens when you double click on a Corel file. Usually Windows gives it to the program that was last installed for that file type. You might have to repair the file associations after installing MBX, but otherwise it should be OK.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "gbmko" <gbmko@...> wrote:

I love learning new software, but must admit I don't know the particulars of "How" they work, so here's my question. The MBX has corel draw essentials (which Jim has mentioned does not remove properly if you need to uninstall the program), and I actually own and have Corel Draw graphic suite x5 installed. When I install MBX, will it all be in a seperate "folder", and work as seperate programs, or do I need to do something to make sure they don't "mix" or interefere with each other? Hopefully it won't be an issue, but as I don't know, wanted to ask before installation. Thanks!


Re: Custom Thread Colors

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

If you have Digitizer MBX you can put your own custom colors into a design using whatever brand of thread you like. You must then use the SET screen, embroidery mode, to set the "Retain original color" option. Otherwise whatever brand you choose will translate the color code embedded in the design (limited to the 78 Janome colors) to the corresponding color in your chosen brand. Unfortunately that does not include Floriani.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "dkuhlman4891" <dkuhlman4891@...> wrote:

I found in the instruction manual that I can change the names of embroidery thread colors in specific designs, but is there a way that I can actually add a brand that is not in the baseline machine (ie Floriani). I was sure they showed us how to do this at Institute, but now that I am sitting in front of my machine, I am wondering if I heard what I thought I heard. I was so awestruck at seeing 40 Horizon 12000's side by side in the class rooms - I may have missed something.


Re: Calibrate Hoops and Free Arm Hoop

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

They may not all hit in the exact center of the template hole, but they should all allow the needle to go through the hole. That said, we have discovered that you do, indeed, have to calibrate each hoop separately.

Our free arm hoop FA is also warped, and sits nearly 1/4 above the machine bed. Diane used it extensively putting names on Christmas gifts and it worked fine, even with the bouncing. This is reminiscent of the hoop RE for the 11000. There was a manufacturing problem that resulted in many of them being warped out of the box. It took a while, but Janome did replace the warped ones.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "joylaytor" <joylaytor@...> wrote:

I decided to calibrate my hoops and when I did so, it looks like I need
to do all of them because when I (carefully) placed each one with the
template on, they all wanted to be at a different spot with the needle
centered on the hole in the template. Please let me know if this is
correct. (A previous message had indicated that you need to calibrate
only one hoop.)
Also, I used the free arm one just once and it bounced up and down
furiously. When I went to class last week another owner's free arm hoop
did not bounce. Mine has a considerable distance between the hoop
bottom and the bed of the machine. Do you think it is warped? Can it
be used only when something is securing it under the free arm? Surely I
can use it for ordinary embroidery, not just for free arm work?
Thanks,Joy


Re: horizon link and adobe

Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

Side note to all readers - when posting a computer problem, please note what version of Windows you are using. It makes a difference in the response. Thanks!

First check to see whether you can open ANY PDF with Adobe Reader. If you don't have a PDF to try, you can get to the stitch chart by clicking on "My Computer" -> C drive -> Program Files [XP or 32-bit Windows 7] or Program Files (X86) [64-bit Windows 7] -> Janome -> HorizonLink -> DataFiles. Double click on the PDF. If it does not open, right click on it and choose "Open With" from the pop-up menu. Choose Adobe Reader from the list of programs and check the "Always open files of this type" box. If that does not fix the problem it may be that HorizonLink is checking for the presence of Adobe Reader in such a way that it cannot be detected on your computer. You can also open PDFs with the also-free program Foxit Reader: http://www.foxitsoftware.com/

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "gbmko" <gbmko@...> wrote:

On horizon link, under tools, stitch/design charts, when I try to open these, I get a pop up window saying "to view documents in PDF, adobe reader is required." I have adobe reader 9 installed. I had this issue with another embroidery related software, and had tried installing 10, but had the same pop up (Went back to 9 because at the time I couldn't figure out where the search engine in 10 was.)Anyway, any suggestions on how to get horizon link and adobe to recognize that each other exists? thanks! Barbara Jean


Re: Cloth Setter

Julie
 

I don't ever hoop anything but rather do the method you are talking about. If you print out a template of your design and place it on your project with the cross hairs appearing on the template you can place it on top of your stabilizer that is hooped and line up everything that way. I make sure that I've drawn the cross lines on my stabilizer that is under my fabric and in the hoop and match the template to those lines. It is hard to change things that you are used to and try different methods but I've done a huge number of lined up designs that had to match both sides of jackets and they were all done without the clothsetter. If Janome does come out with one for the 12000 machine it will have to be huge and probably in a $$ range that most people don't want to pay. I do have a lot of Janome friends that feel like you do and can't live without it so I hear what you are saying. When I have time I'll put pictues up of clothing where multiple designs had to match and it was done without a clothsetter.

Julie in TX

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "threadships" <genevieveadams@...> wrote:

For the cloth setter question, you have completely missed the boat. We all know how to place out fabric IN the hoop and get it centered. Now go try doing the same thing, hooping the stabilizer and applying the fabric on top. We are talking hoopless embroidery. This is frequently required when embroidering a fabric which would be damaged by compressing it in a hoop. The hoop skids all over the table and you have no visible reference marks to tell you where center is. Even a template won't help if you can't line it up in the hoop. The clothsetter solved both problems. Three of my Christmas projects required this type of hooping. It took multiple tries to get the fabric centered close enough to fine tune it with the JOG keys. It was effortless with the clothsetter that I am accustomed to using on my previous Janome machines. A large sheet of skidproof shelfliner on the table helps to stabilize the hoop however.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <jjems@> wrote:

For those of you that think you can't center a design without the
clothsetter, I would ask you if you have ever tried lining up your
embroidery by printing out a template and placing that on your project
before lining up in the hoop. It is the same thing as a clothsetter but so
easy and so much less trouble than using a clothsetter.



If Janome does come out with a cloth setter for the 12k machine I won't be
buying it because it's really not necessary, plus, a clothsetter for the 12k
machine would have to be huge and the price to fit that.



If you started with Janome and either an 8000 or 9000 machine back in the
90's there was no other way to line up embroidery other than the clothsetter
because those machines for some reason did not start with the designs
centered. After Janome figured it out and realized with later machines that
having the machine start with the design in the center was important, then a
clothsetter was just an extra accessory that really wasn't necessary.



Julie in TX


horizon link and adobe

gbmko
 

On horizon link, under tools, stitch/design charts, when I try to open these, I get a pop up window saying "to view documents in PDF, adobe reader is required." I have adobe reader 9 installed. I had this issue with another embroidery related software, and had tried installing 10, but had the same pop up (Went back to 9 because at the time I couldn't figure out where the search engine in 10 was.)Anyway, any suggestions on how to get horizon link and adobe to recognize that each other exists? thanks! Barbara Jean


Re: Floriani thread on the 12000

vicki chrobak
 

Frances, I put my Floriani on a separate thread stand & I have no problems at all.

--
Vicki Jo

I'm trying to find out more information on this thread. When using my
11000, I had to buy some adjustment thingy in order to embroider with
the Floriani thread but it didn't help much. The floriani thread shed
and broke frequently on several of the 11000's in my class. Is this
thread any better now for the 12000?


Floriani thread on the 12000

Frances
 

I'm trying to find out more information on this thread. When using my 11000, I had to buy some adjustment thingy in order to embroider with the Floriani thread but it didn't help much. The floriani thread shed and broke frequently on several of the 11000's in my class. Is this thread any better now for the 12000?


Calibrate Hoops and Free Arm Hoop

joylaytor
 

I decided to calibrate my hoops and when I did so, it looks like I need to do all of them because when I (carefully) placed each one with the template on, they all wanted to be at a different spot with the needle centered on the hole in the template.  Please let me know if this is correct.  (A previous message had indicated that you need to calibrate only one hoop.)

Also, I used the free arm one just once and it bounced up and down furiously.  When I went to class last week another owner's free arm hoop did not bounce.  Mine has a considerable distance between the hoop bottom and the bed of the machine.  Do you think it is warped?  Can it be used only when something is securing it under the free arm?  Surely I can use it for ordinary embroidery, not just for free arm work?

Thanks,
Joy


Custom Thread Colors

dkuhlman4891
 

I found in the instruction manual that I can change the names of embroidery thread colors in specific designs, but is there a way that I can actually add a brand that is not in the baseline machine (ie Floriani). I was sure they showed us how to do this at Institute, but now that I am sitting in front of my machine, I am wondering if I heard what I thought I heard. I was so awestruck at seeing 40 Horizon 12000's side by side in the class rooms - I may have missed something.


Re: Janome Mbx

maggie cooper
 

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "jeana_david" <jeana.david@...> wrote:

Hi, thanks to those who replied to my last post,it was very helpful
I have another query,I upgraded to MBX and like it very much but I am confused about the tie off and cut button for selected objects Can you appy this button to the entire design or just selected bits of it?
I assumed that tie offs were automatic if you use the semi auto parts of the software or do you have to use this button? Also what do you select on the 12000, the cutting command or always tie off and cut?Again what is a good length for the jump stitch before this happens?
I hope you can understand what I mean! Jeana
Jeana,the force tie on and offs was included for people who didnt want small jumps, 2mm or less between lettering or objects. MBX will still automatically insert tie stitches between colour changes, jumps longer than 3 needle up commands, that your machines are usually set for to trigger a jump. If you view your design in non simulated stitch mode, you should see a series of triangles and circles. Triangles are tie off stitches, and circles mark tie on stitches. I think you'll find you only need the force tie stitch function on lettering where the distance between the ending of one letter, and the start of the next doesnt show 3 clear what looks like needle penetrations.
Those are the 3 nedle up commands your machine recieves to travel across the gap.
maggiecoops


MBX and Corel question

gbmko
 

I love learning new software, but must admit I don't know the particulars of "How" they work, so here's my question. The MBX has corel draw essentials (which Jim has mentioned does not remove properly if you need to uninstall the program), and I actually own and have Corel Draw graphic suite x5 installed. When I install MBX, will it all be in a seperate "folder", and work as seperate programs, or do I need to do something to make sure they don't "mix" or interefere with each other? Hopefully it won't be an issue, but as I don't know, wanted to ask before installation. Thanks!


Re: . Thread coming out of take up lever

Vikki Youngmeyer
 

Sometimes thread will come out of the take up lever because it somehow got skinned. This usually happens with poor quality thread that has knots or ‘blebs’ in it.

Try a different thread.

 

I’m amazed that people will spend hundreds/thousands of dollars on various types of sewing machines but use poor quality thread that’s 2 for $1 from Walmart or Joann’s. That’s not to say that you may not have a problem with a good quality thread. I’ve taken a couple of King Tut spools back to my dealer and gotten replacements, as it was obviously those particular spools had manufacturing problems.

 

Some spools have “notches” so you can store the thread without it unraveling from the spool and getting tangled. Sometimes the notches are too deep or have a rough spot  such that the way particular machines are threaded, the thread gets caught in the notch as it goes up and down the spool. When it gets caught it may break right there or “skin” on thru to cause problems elsewhere.

 

You can try putting the thread on the thread stand and see if that makes a difference. Sometimes on the horizontal spools, the thread will “roll off” the spool and wrap itself around the spindle. I’ve noticed that embroidery thread is notorious for doing that!

 

Vikki

Houston, TX

 


Re: Cloth Setter

threadships
 

For the cloth setter question, you have completely missed the boat. We all know how to place out fabric IN the hoop and get it centered. Now go try doing the same thing, hooping the stabilizer and applying the fabric on top. We are talking hoopless embroidery. This is frequently required when embroidering a fabric which would be damaged by compressing it in a hoop. The hoop skids all over the table and you have no visible reference marks to tell you where center is. Even a template won't help if you can't line it up in the hoop. The clothsetter solved both problems. Three of my Christmas projects required this type of hooping. It took multiple tries to get the fabric centered close enough to fine tune it with the JOG keys. It was effortless with the clothsetter that I am accustomed to using on my previous Janome machines. A large sheet of skidproof shelfliner on the table helps to stabilize the hoop however.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <jjems@...> wrote:

For those of you that think you can't center a design without the
clothsetter, I would ask you if you have ever tried lining up your
embroidery by printing out a template and placing that on your project
before lining up in the hoop. It is the same thing as a clothsetter but so
easy and so much less trouble than using a clothsetter.



If Janome does come out with a cloth setter for the 12k machine I won't be
buying it because it's really not necessary, plus, a clothsetter for the 12k
machine would have to be huge and the price to fit that.



If you started with Janome and either an 8000 or 9000 machine back in the
90's there was no other way to line up embroidery other than the clothsetter
because those machines for some reason did not start with the designs
centered. After Janome figured it out and realized with later machines that
having the machine start with the design in the center was important, then a
clothsetter was just an extra accessory that really wasn't necessary.



Julie in TX


. Thread coming out of take up lever

Linda Spector <lmsoriginals1@...>
 

I've had the same happen, randomly.  I can't seem to discover what the secret is either.  Any ideas?   btw, I LOVE MY MACHINE!!
 
Linda