Date   

Re: Looking for sewing machine table

Anne Parker <annegparker@...>
 

When you say new table do you mean something to put it in or something to put it on?

I've found my motorhome table at around 26 inches high is the ideal height for me to put the 15000 on and gives me the depth to use the embroidery unit.  It means I can sit at it on a normal dining room chair and reach the foot pedal and use the machine comfortably.  I'm only 4ft 11ins so always have issues with high worktops (as in kitchens! - need to use a step to reach the wall cupboards!)

You can get replacement ones on ebay fairly cheaply - or you can even buy just the folding legs that set the top at that height so you can put your own top on (kitchen worktop?) (I used the one from our own motorhome as we never used it!)

Here's a pic of mine with a couple of my vintage machines testing it out for strength - https://www.flickr.com/photos/94302460@N03/sets/72157646499503465/ - the 2 cast iron machines together weigh more than the 15000. - you can also see it's slightly lower than my normal Horn cabinet for 'normal' machines (though that is also too high and is on it's way out as I write!).

Anne
​ in Stubbington, UK​

www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann

On 7 December 2014 at 18:31, cmgazerro@... [janome12000] <janome12000@...> wrote:
 

Need to get new sewing machine table for my 15000.  Any suggestions?

Carolyn



Re: Replacing hoops for 12000

juliadlf1 <no_reply@...>
 

Sue: Contact Ken's Sewing Center online. He does have all the hoops for the 12000 which I believe is the same ones used on the 15000 ( in case anyone is interested). Not sure if the templates are included in the pricing but I would assume they are. Just click on the link for the 12000 and all the hoops will come up for that model.

http://www.kenssewingcenter.com/janome-embroidery-machine-hoops-c-15_43_49.html

Also if you need the RE18 hoop is also has that one.
Janome RE18 5.5 x 7 Essential Embroidery Hoop for MC12000 MC15000 at Ken's Sewing Center

 



Julia
NY-MC12000

 


Re: MC 12000 Bobbin Winding

Chris House
 

These simple to follow and complete instructions are the example Janome should use as guide to create their manuals.  Photos are relevant, close up, clear.  Janome should have Jim and Diane on contract. Jewels these wonderful experts are, and lucky for all of us they are willing and passionate about distributing and sharing their wealth of knowledge.  Gold stars and A +'s to both of them!  THANK YOU.  I have been grateful for many tips and explanations.  
Chris, a 12000 owner.

On Sun, Dec 7, 2014 at 9:25 AM, 'VLS' hshocraf@... [janome12000] <janome12000@...> wrote:
 

Im not Robin but here is the link on winding the bobbin
 
 
vicki

On advice from the law firm of Dewey, Cheatham and Howe, Jim says:
Please note that this document applies ONLY to the 12000, NOT the 15000.
 
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2014 9:16 AM
Subject: [janome12000] MC 12000 Bobbin Winding
 
 

Robin can you point me to these instructions??
I have looked and looked in the messages and just can not find
the instructions. 
Thank you for any help.
  JoAnn
Life's biggest decision is what you do with Jesus.

On 12/2/2014 4:04 PM, robynsaunt@... [janome12000] wrote:
 

I have had trouble winding bobbins on my 12000 too.  Things improved for me when I followed Jim's "how to wind a bobbin" instructions that can be found somewhere in these conversations. He has an instruction about putting the tread through the bobbin hole and then down through the centre of the bobbin. I am not explaining it as well as Jim does (sorry).  Always use full speed and the stop start button.

Good luck.
Janice




MC 12000 Bobbin Winding

JoAnn Novak
 

Thank you for your help.

 I have the 15000.  Is there help winding bobbins for this one??
 JoAnn
Life's biggest decision is what you do with Jesus.

Making popcorn for the movie, Jim says:
It's built into the machine. The question mark icon will provide movies for winding a bobbin, threading the machine and more. You can also view them on your computer. Open HorizonLink Suite and choose "MC15000 Help Movie". There are several to choose from.


Looking for sewing machine table

cmgazerro@...
 

Need to get new sewing machine table for my 15000.  Any suggestions?

Carolyn


super-pleased!

Barb Engvall
 

I have been quilting a large quilt for a raffle and just made an embroidered label for it using the AccuEdit app. Boy, that was the easiest label I have made! It transferred easily to the 15000 and it stitched out beautifully! I also love being able to keep track of ‘time remaining’ with the AccuMonitor…no more guesswork on that end, either.


Replacing hoops for 12000

Sue Raabe <susies.stitches@...>
 

For some reason, I seem to b e missing 2 of my embroidery hoops.  Can anyone tell me where I might be able to buy replacements?  I searched Google, but couldn't find any.  Thanks.

Missing most of his hair, Jim says:
You are unlikely to find them available on the Internet, since they are sold only with the machine. Your dealer can order replacements, though I fear they may cost more than you would expect. Note that the plastic templates may need to be ordered separately.

Hoop SQ14 - #859823003     Template - #859823302
Hoop FA10 - #859824004     Template - #859824303
Hoop SQ23 - #859822002     Template - #859822301
Hoop GR - #859820000     Template - #859820701
AcuFil Kit - #859428004     Includes hoop & template


Re: MC 12000 Bobbin Winding

VLS
 

Im not Robin but here is the link on winding the bobbin
 
 
vicki

On advice from the law firm of Dewey, Cheatham and Howe, Jim says:
Please note that this document applies ONLY to the 12000, NOT the 15000.
 
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2014 9:16 AM
Subject: [janome12000] MC 12000 Bobbin Winding
 
 

Robin can you point me to these instructions??
I have looked and looked in the messages and just can not find
the instructions. 
Thank you for any help.
  JoAnn
Life's biggest decision is what you do with Jesus.

On 12/2/2014 4:04 PM, robynsaunt@... [janome12000] wrote:
 

I have had trouble winding bobbins on my 12000 too.  Things improved for me when I followed Jim's "how to wind a bobbin" instructions that can be found somewhere in these conversations. He has an instruction about putting the tread through the bobbin hole and then down through the centre of the bobbin. I am not explaining it as well as Jim does (sorry).  Always use full speed and the stop start button.

Good luck.
Janice



MC 12000 Bobbin Winding

JoAnn Novak
 

 Robin can you point me to these instructions??
 I have looked and looked in the messages and just can not find
 the instructions. 
 Thank you for any help.
  JoAnn
Life's biggest decision is what you do with Jesus.

On 12/2/2014 4:04 PM, robynsaunt@... [janome12000] wrote:

 

I have had trouble winding bobbins on my 12000 too.  Things improved for me when I followed Jim's "how to wind a bobbin" instructions that can be found somewhere in these conversations. He has an instruction about putting the tread through the bobbin hole and then down through the centre of the bobbin. I am not explaining it as well as Jim does (sorry).  Always use full speed and the stop start button.

Good luck.
Janice



Re: Bi-level presser foot?

favymtz
 

Yes, Janome does have a foot that's perfect for your needs! Its the Rotary Even Foot. It looks like it has tank rollers that travel well over uneven edges. It comes with attachments to do hemming, applying binding, and regular sewing. Unfortunately, I think it only has a 7mm version, not yet the 9mm. But, you can use it on a 9mm machine if you have a 7mm presser foot holder. It's a great tool, check with your dealer for pricing. Also there's some good demos of it on the Janome videos site.


Re: Bi-level presser foot?

Jim Stutsman
 

Janome used to have a 7mm snap-on foot K, which was bi-level. When we made FootBook we left it out because it hasn't been available for several years. Apparently they just quit making it. There is an edge stitching foot, 9mm foot SE, which has a channel under the adjustable guide. It might work well for you. Can you post a picture of what you are stitching? Diane can probably make a recommendation once she sees the project.


Re: Bi-level presser foot?

Anne Parker <annegparker@...>
 

Patti

I've only recently bought my machine (15000 v2) so haven't had a similar situation, but maybe you could test out the ordinary zipper foot - or the acufeed zipper foot - since you only need a small zigzag.  I would try with the thinest side under the foot and move the fabric and needle so the zigzag doesn't hit the foot of course.  For other machines I have a low shank adjustable zipper foot which allows me to move the foot left or right instead of having to move the needle or I can do both.  You can get hign shank versions but don't know if they will fit the 15000 (not sure of the distance between the pivot of the foot and the needle hole - you would have to check the distance). 

You can also get shank adaptors for high shank machines so you can use other snap on feet which may be slightly narrower, but again you would need to be sure that it brought the hole in the foot over the hole in the machine and also there was enough feed from the feed dogs to work properly. (I have successfully used 5mm feet in a 7mm machine). I do have a high to low shank adaptor for ordinary low shank screw on feet but it does not work on the 15000 - the hole in the foot is too far forward.  Though I am planning to try out some old Husqvarna Viking feet I have which don't work on my other machines as the hole is too far back!

Anne
​ in Stubbington, UK​

www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann

On 6 December 2014 at 16:45, pble2000@... [janome12000] <janome12000@...> wrote:
 

It doesn't seem that Janome has a bilevel foot and I used mine frequently with my last machine. So what foot do you use when you have a project with very different thicknesses? I make wallets from pet screen and fold over elastic for binding and need to use a tiny zigzag to join them at the edge; it's two layers of screen and 4 of the elastic so obviously one side is very thick. Would the AccuFeed narrow foot work for this? I saw the Pfaff bilevel foot and it might work on the Janome. Any other thoughts? 


Thanks so much!


Patti



New laptop & HorizonLink update?

brittisl1018@...
 

I bought my 12000 (used) about 2 months ago.  After many discussions, I decided that using Horizon Link on an Intel machine would be easier than making my MAC a virtual machine.  My hubby found, during Black Friday/Cyber Monday sales, an ACER laptop & external CDROM for ~ $200.  Not much more than we would have paid for the MAC software needed to work with MC12000. 
I have installed the HorizonLink disk I received with my 12000 (version 1.0).  I see on the Janome site that the current version is 1.20.  Can I jump from version 1.0 to 1.2?  Any hints/tricks to the update?


Jim (used) says:

You can update directly to 1.2 without any intervening updates. Just read ALL of the instructions first and follow them. Don't turn off the machine until you get the "Finish" screen. That's about it.


Re: 15000 back from repair - Needle Threader doesn't work

Anne Parker <annegparker@...>
 

Cas

There is the following note at the top of page 16 in the manual

NOTE:
The needle threader can be used with a #11 to #16
needle.
Thread size 50 to 90 is recommended.
Do not use thread size 30 or thicker.

There is also a chart at the bottom of page 18 and the following note:-

1 x twin needle, 2 x blue needle (#11/75), 1 x red needle (#14/90) and 1 x purple needle (#14/90) are included in the needle case.
The automatic needle threader cannot be used for threading a thread size #30 or thicker

Also note that the supplied needles are actually Organ needles (it says so on the shank - I have to use a magnifying glass for that now!) and the purple needle has a different shaped point to the red needle, and can be used to resolve a problem with skipped stitches.

Anne
​ in Stubbington, UK​

www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann

On 5 December 2014 at 23:00, cas@... [janome12000] <janome12000@...> wrote:
 

That’s good information.  I’ve only used size 14 so far.  They were Organ titanium topstitch needles, which I believe have a bigger hole.  When it started acting wacky I tried it with the red needle included with the machine.  I think those are very similar from previous threads.
Cas
 
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2014 11:55 AM
Subject: Re: [janome12000] 15000 back from repair - Needle Threader doesn&#39;t work
 
 

Certain needles with a smaller eye will not work on my 15000.  In that case I resort to the manual needle threaded.
 
 
Needing glasses to have eyes that work, Jim says:
Anything smaller than a size 11 has an eye that is too small for the threader hook to pass through. Using the threader with needles smaller than 11 can potentially damage that hook.



Re: Trouble with jump stitches

HEATHER COWAN
 

I use emboldened and just go in and change the stitch type from running stitch to jump stitch.   Works great
Heather

Sent from my iPad

On Dec 6, 2014, at 5:27 AM, maggiecoops@... [janome12000] <janome12000@...> wrote:

 

I agree with Jim, (don't faint James) if the software used to create the designs was one that didn't have the current generation of stitch formats, converting the native format of the design might have added runs rather than jumps.


A few years ago now, I can't remember if it was Husqvarna or Pfaff, were given the license to reproduce the Hummel characters as embroidery designs. On their own brand of machine they stitched perfectly, however on other brands the results were dreadful. Travel runs across the top of fills, tie stitches from where one colour ended were at the end of runstitches at least an inch away from where the digitiser had intended. The culprit, well in that instance the company and the digitiser, just because a digitising program offers various formats, it doesn't mean designs don't need testing, the company nor the digitiser had the designs tested on other machines. Had they tested them on different brand mach ines, the digitiser could have made the changes required for each format.


A huge problem now is the sheer volume of domestic embroidery software owners selling designs through design brokers. They offer all the main stitch formats including Art and Jef, but to obtain those formats have used a third party editor to convert a stitch format, that introduces problems. They don't use test stitchers so are unaware of what happens when they convert their native formats to stitch formats. Don't know how to make design changes for specific formats, are unaware there are several generations of a single stitch format, and each generation has its own requirements.  I was told there was only one Jef format, in fact there are at least four, the Brother format Pes has at least eight, Bernina disallows use of it's formats and ties the various generations to specific machines.


Embroidery machines as wonderful as they are can only do as they are told, a design file only contains needle up, needle down commands, pantograph X, Y co-ordinate movement commands, RGB values for colour display, hoop recognition codes. The machine obeys the commands in the design file.

Maggie Cooper UK




Bi-level presser foot?

pble2000@...
 

It doesn't seem that Janome has a bilevel foot and I used mine frequently with my last machine. So what foot do you use when you have a project with very different thicknesses? I make wallets from pet screen and fold over elastic for binding and need to use a tiny zigzag to join them at the edge; it's two layers of screen and 4 of the elastic so obviously one side is very thick. Would the AccuFeed narrow foot work for this? I saw the Pfaff bilevel foot and it might work on the Janome. Any other thoughts? 


Thanks so much!


Patti


Re: Trouble with jump stitches

Lisa Powell
 

I'll bet you're right Jim. That software won't save the designs as JEF. I have to "export" them to my design folder on my computer, then copy and save them to my jump drive. I love what the program will do, but it doesn't seem to be Janome friendly...or blonde friendly, either! :>/ I'll try to dig through the tutorials and see how to fix it.
Thanks!


Sent from my iPad


Re: Trouble with jump stitches

maggie cooper
 

I agree with Jim, (don't faint James) if the software used to create the designs was one that didn't have the current generation of stitch formats, converting the native format of the design might have added runs rather than jumps.


A few years ago now, I can't remember if it was Husqvarna or Pfaff, were given the license to reproduce the Hummel characters as embroidery designs. On their own brand of machine they stitched perfectly, however on other brands the results were dreadful. Travel runs across the top of fills, tie stitches from where one colour ended were at the end of runstitches at least an inch away from where the digitiser had intended. The culprit, well in that instance the company and the digitiser, just because a digitising program offers various formats, it doesn't mean designs don't need testing, the company nor the digitiser had the designs tested on other machines. Had they tested them on different brand machines, the digitiser could have made the changes required for each format.


A huge problem now is the sheer volume of domestic embroidery software owners selling designs through design brokers. They offer all the main stitch formats including Art and Jef, but to obtain those formats have used a third party editor to convert a stitch format, that introduces problems. They don't use test stitchers so are unaware of what happens when they convert their native formats to stitch formats. Don't know how to make design changes for specific formats, are unaware there are several generations of a single stitch format, and each generation has its own requirements.  I was told there was only one Jef format, in fact there are at least four, the Brother format Pes has at least eight, Bernina disallows use of it's formats and ties the various generations to specific machines.


Embroidery machines as wonderful as they are can only do as they are told, a design file only contains needle up, needle down commands, pantograph X, Y co-ordinate movement commands, RGB values for colour display, hoop recognition codes. The machine obeys the commands in the design file.

Maggie Cooper UK




Re: Trouble with jump stitches

Betty's Original Embroideries
 

This will be long winded trying to explain it the best I can.. Something I figured out on my own..Hope this all makes sense..
Try to explain what we learned and figured out maybe it will help you..
With Viking software for the newer Viking machines is that Viking machines to clip the jumps have to be run through the Viking software in order to clip all the jumps.  We did a lot of testing designs with and without the software on Vikings.
Where Janome machines the machine actually when you send it to the machine knows to clip the jumps so in short Viking is software based to clip them and Janome is not.. The machine knows in the Janome to do it..
So when The Viking Diamond first came out that clipped the jumps we learned something odd was happening.. If you run a design through the software that had some longer running stitches it recognized that stitch as a jump stitch and would actually delete stitches out of the design.. I have a feeling there is a glitch between Viking software and Janome machine that is causing the issue and doing the opposite to your design. Try using another software to send the designs to the Janome and see what happens.. Just a thought... I know Pfaff had similar issues as the Diamond. They are similar machines similar software is why..  If you ran design direct without the software it was fine.. So Jim maybe right it is software related for sure are my thoughts too.. Hope this makes sense..
 Janome Digitizer Pro software does not have a jump clip built into it because Janome put me in touch with programmers of Janome software.. I was having issues with digitizing in Janome software and my Brother 6 needle that clipped the jumps were not clipping if digitized in Janome software.. That was why I called them.. So after going through many people they had someone from the company call me and that is what they told me..I had to resave the designs in another software that had jump clip to fix the issues..  Not sure about the newer versions this was a couple versions ago.. Digitizer Pro is the one that had those issues.. Unless you deal with a lot of different machines like I do with different customers you may not run into these issues.. So this is just a bit of info I learned doing this for so many years and figuring things out.




Trouble with jump stitches

Lisa Powell
 

I stitched out 2 designs today on my 350e, and they both had stitched down jump stitches instead of a long thread that I could just clip. For instance, when it stitched in one area, then moved to another area to stitch with that same thread, instead of just pulling the thread to the new area it made a row of stitching. So instead of just clipping each end of a long thread, I had to pull out individual stitches with a seam ripper. Both designs were from a reputable online company. I'll try them on my 12000 to see if the same thing happens, but do you guys think it's a machine, software (I use Viking 6D), or design issue? I'm baffled!

Thanks,

Lisa


In a rare moment of unbaffled, Jim says:

I'd bet software. The JEF format uses a special code to signify a jump stitch. It sounds like the design is using ordinary stitches instead. The machine is just doing what it was told.

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