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Re: 12k GR hoop(230x300) design issue

ceilsews <no_reply@...>
 

Thank you!


Link to MC12000 Sales site

Tony Coley
 

Can someone post the link to the site where MC12000's can be listed for sale.
Sorry for the repear, but I really need to move mine.
Thanks
Tony in HOT HOT South Alabama


Option 1: our in-list database of machines for sale


Option III: Craig's List (use caution) or eBay (big fees, use more caution)


Re: RE18 Hoop

VLS
 

I called Janome yesterday to order some of the RE18 hoops for our customers that had purchased the 15000 machine and I was told they were on backorder and they could not give me any idea how long it would be before they would be shipped.
Vicki
 

Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2014 7:14 AM
Subject: RE: [janome12000] RE18 Hoop
 
 

I believe I will have the RE18 hoop in hand come Tuesday. My dealer (I work part-time for him and am his educator) called Janome because it wasn't on the site yet but was told it would be sent out the next day. Time will tell!?! Now I need to figure out how to make my machine recognize it! Not sure if the upgrade to the 15000 coming in August is what will make it all work together.
 
 
Tempted to wait until August, Jim nevertheless speaks now:
The update to recognize the hoop is available right now. You can download it here, as several have already done.


Re: 12k GR hoop(230x300) design issue

ceilsews <no_reply@...>
 


Jim,
This is something that has me confused.  I read in several places that the material in the hoop should be "drum tight" and thought that meant tight as a drum.  What you say makes sense but how do you know when you have the correct hoop tension?
Thanks.
Ceil


Somewhat less than drum tight, Jim says:
Many people make the mistake of hooping the fabric too tightly. For some fabrics, such as heavy denim, there is little penalty. But softer lighter weight fabrics can be easily stretched, especially if they are hooped on the bias. Generally as long as the fabric is not sagging below the hoop when you pick it up then all should be well. You can also get better results by using the straight stitch plate for embroidery.


Re: Digest Number 1118

debbie tomec
 

is there a way to by pass the lock feature on the 15000 for threading the needle.  also does the cd rom drive work on the 12000 or the 15000


Jim says:
There is no way to bypass the lock function for threading. You really don't want to, because it makes sure the needle is in proper position and it also opens the tension discs so the thread gets in the tension correctly. The CD ROM drive works ONLY on the 11000 and the 350E. It is not supported on either the 12000 or the 15000.


12k GR hoop(230x300) design issue

Mary Ann
 

12k issue with design #1  in the machine for the GR hoop (large blue floral bouquet).  I stitched out this design on 100 cotton with 2 layers of iron on med  stabilizer.  There was a small amount of pulling at the tips of the leaves but looked good until I removed it from the hoop.  The stabilizer pulled and when I ironed it the pulling got worse.  Since it is a Janome design I hesitate to change the tension settings but the design is very dense.   This was my first attempt at the GR hoop with my new 12k.  I have been doing machine 10k embroidery for 12 years but many new stabilizers are now available.  I am using the special bobbin case for embroidery and RA poly thread for the most part. ( I have a variety of threads).  This used a lot of time and thread so I would like the next time be a usable piece.  Any suggestions.  Thanks

Mary Ann



Consulting Diane, Jim says:

It appears that it was hooped too tightly. If you make the fabric drum tight in the hoop, it will stretch. Then when you remove it the springing back will cause the problem you saw. The larger the hoop, the more pronounced the stretch will be. Try hooping it so it's not so tight. Use the magnets.


Re: Design over 100K - SewWhatPro or Horizon Link Issue ?

juliadlf.ny@...
 

Got the problem fixed. Seems I didn't change a setting in SWP which allows up to 100K, resolved the double file saving and tested again eliminating 8 stops so I only have 95K stitches and it shows in Horizon Link. Now the bigger test is stitching it out and seeing what happens when I stitch both files.
Thank goodness SWP has good CSR support otherwise I'd be bald by now.

Julia
NY-MC12000


Design over 100K - SewWhatPro or Horizon Link Issue ?

juliadlf.ny@...
 

Hoping some of the SWP experts can help me out. I have a design which is 114,669 stitches with 35 color stops. It will fit in the SQ23 hoop as the design is 5.86 x 8.55.

When I open the design in SewWhatPro and reduce the color stops from 35 to 27 to get under the 100K stitch limit on the MC12000, save the file, the file saves in 2 parts (example D6158a and D6159a-A) but neither file can be opened in Horizon Link.  The stitch count when I saved was 95,290. The D6158a file now has 79,838 and the D6159a-A has 15,452 stitches.

If I eliminate 18 color stops, it saves in one file and opens in Horizon Link and the stitch count is under 65,000.

I thought MC12000 would accommodate up to 100K stitches so why would it not open in Horizon link or is there also a limit on the number of color stops as well with the MC12000?

Thanks for helping me through this. I've contact S&S Computing but thought to check to see if there is something with the MC12000 that is preventing the files from being saved and opened. Process of elimination as to a Janome or SWP issue.

Julia
NY-MC12000





Re: Upper Thread Broken Warning--Metallic threads

audrey <Contessa@...>
 

Thanks everyone. Much appreciated.


Re: My first embroidery and Q for Jim

Pat Bryant
 

Sarah,
I totally agree with you!  I actually started digitizing when I wanted to split designs properly.  I know a lot of programs will do it for you now, but way back, when dinosaurs roamed the planet and our embroidery machines were new, we had to do our own work  LOL 
 
Pat
SewAmused@...
 

In a message dated 7/3/2014 10:09:56 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, janome12000@... writes:
but it is easier to remember them and then adapt and apply the principles if I know the WHY behind it. So thank you for providing me the “why!”


Re: Upper Thread Broken Warning--Metallic threads

Smith Sarah Ann <sarahannsmith@...>
 

Finally something where I can help! Two other things with metallic threads:


1. Use a needle with a LARGE eye which reduces friction on the metal in the metallic thread. The best for this are the Metallic/Metallica and the Topstitch, which are essentially identical in terms of size of eye and depth of the groove down the front of the needle that protects your thread. You need a size of needle where the groove effectively encases the thread so that it doesn’t rub on the cloth as it goes through. Most of the metallic threads for use on the machine (at least the ones I come across in the quilty world) seem to do well with a 14/90.


2. Slow down the speed at which you are stitching. This is easily done when quilting—just ease up on the pedal or use the speed control slider, but you can also (I have learned) reduce the speed at which your machine stitches out embroidery designs in the settings. The manual said that for very narrow zigzag going slower is better (that problem I had with the Micro Gothic font), but it would also help with metallic threads.


When I teach I explain it this way: In winter when you are cold, you rub your hands together to get them warm, so we know rubbing creates friction creates heat. The thread going through the needle creates friction which creates heat. And what conducts heat? Metal! And guess where there is metal: in the needle AND in the metallic thread. So as you build up friction (and it builds up fast when doing satin stitching, for example), the thread gets hotter, then will fray and break. The longer and faster you stitch, the hotter it gets.


To reduce the heat build up you can use the larger-eyed needle, sew more slowly, and yeah—a little blue language sometimes help relieve tension—-yours! If you have been sewing along for an hour and all is fine, and all of a sudden the thread breaks and breaks and breaks, just take a break. Let the machine and needle cool down. Or swap out for a cool needle. Don’t toss out the old one—it just needs a cool breeze like I do when I get overheated. Unless of course the needle is well-used and therefore dull and needs to be tossed.


And last random thought—make sure it is good quality thread. If you’ve got a 15000, then I suspect you already know good thread when you see it and you were using good quality, but there is some awful stuff still floating around out there. Luckily, we have a LOT of good quality thread to choose from now—not like 10 or more years ago when there was a lot of awful crinkly, crunchy yucky stuff!


Hope this helps!




Cheers, Sarah


Check out my DVD: Art Quilt Design: From Photo to Threadwork
Author of bestseller ThreadWork Unraveled
website and blog: http://www.sarahannsmith.com/weblog
e-mail: sarah@...


Re: Bobbins for Janome 12000 Muddle!

audrey <Contessa@...>
 

Thanks Jim, so grateful for your kind advice – love your sense of humour too!
Really appreciated.
 
 
 


Re: Bobbins for Janome 12000 Muddle!

VLS
 

I have the brother 6 needle and the Janome 12000 machine.  My brother bobbins are a little bit smaller meaning not around but up and down (height) If you take the two different bobbins and drop place them in the machine then compare how high up they come the brother bobbin will not fit even with the bobbin case unit.  It sits slightly lower.
 
Vicki
 

Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2014 7:49 AM
Subject: [janome12000] Bobbins for Janome 12000 Muddle!
 
 

I used to have a Brother embroidery machine, but changed it a few months ago for my wonderful Janome 12000.

I have just been having a tidy up of my sewing room - much needed - and have found lots of bobbins, but I am now not sure which ones are for the 12000 and which were once used in my Brother machine.

They look very similar but some have 3 marks that go straight across the bobbin and some have 3 marks that are at 9 o'clock, 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock, if that makes sense.

Can anyone help me distinguish which are which please? I'd hate to use the wrong bobbin in my 12000.



Eliminating Dr. Pepper bobbins (marks at 10, 2, 4), Jim says:

Some Brother embroidery models use a class 15 like Janome. The marks you mention are not something I've ever seen on Janome bobbins, and they might just be from the mold that made them. If you can still identify one of the bobbins that came with your machine, compare it with the unknowns. The critical measurements are diameter and height. If those two match they you can use them. If not, don't use them.


Re: RE18 Hoop

cdnquilter5@...
 

I am in Canada and my dealer says 5x7 available October at the earliest and will have an upgrade with it.


Bobbins for Janome 12000 Muddle!

Contessa@...
 

I used to have a Brother embroidery machine, but changed it a few months ago for my wonderful Janome 12000.

 I have just been having a tidy up of my sewing room - much needed - and have found lots of bobbins, but I am now not sure which ones are for the 12000 and which were once used in my Brother machine.

They look very similar but some have 3 marks that go straight across the bobbin and some have 3 marks that are at 9 o'clock, 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock, if that makes sense.

Can anyone help me distinguish which are which please? I'd hate to use the wrong bobbin in my 12000.



Eliminating Dr. Pepper bobbins (marks at 10, 2, & 4), Jim says:

Some Brother embroidery models use a class 15 like Janome. The marks you mention are not something I've ever seen on Janome bobbins, and they might just be from the mold that made them. If you can still identify one of the bobbins that came with your machine, compare it with the unknowns. The critical measurements are diameter and height. If those two match they you can use them. If not, don't use them.


Re: Upper Thread Broken Warning

audrey <Contessa@...>
 

Thanks Jim, I really appreciate your help with this.
 
I rang my dealer when it happened, for advice, and they advised running a thicker thread through the threading mechanism, or, as you say, a piece of folded cloth.
I tried this, to no avail. Yesterday morning,I then decided I’d open the little door on the side of the machine and use a torch to see if I could see anything.
After a while and a bit of fiddling, I caught sight of a tiny piece of green stretchy metallic thread. I got some tiny tweezers and pulled, very gently, and, low and behold, after about 5 minutes, I had pulled a huge bunch of unravelled thread.
I couldn’t believe how much there was. No wonder the machine wasn’t working properly. I’m surprised it worked at all.
Anyway, all seems well now, thank goodness.
 
Jim, may I ask another question please? I don’t use metallic thread very often but, if I do and it gets stuck in the threading mechanism, what is the best way of retrieving it, do you think? Or indeed, any thread.
After what has happened, snapping it off is definitely not an option.
Hope this mishap might help someone else avoid a problem.
Thanks again Jim.
 

Consulting a golden retriever, Jim says:
Metallic thread is a delight in so many ways, and often leads to exploration of the less-used words in any language. Generally when things go wrong it's best not to grab and yank, though that can be ever so emotionally satisfying. I would start by cutting the thread at the eye of the needle and at the spool. Engage the machine lock, then take the end at the spool and gently pull it out of the thread path following the numbers in ascending order until you arrive at the needle end. That would give you the best chance of getting it all out without a clot of thread in the tension.


Digitizer JR

ccaseber@...
 

Were there ever any updates to DJ version 3.0?




Jim says:

There was a service pack. However that version is no longer supported.


Re: RE18 Hoop

Gail Berkler
 

Thanks, I didn't know you could do that.


On Thursday, July 3, 2014, ccaseber ccaseber@... [janome12000] <janome12000@...> wrote:
 

Don't let this go to your head but you are the greatest! Thanks

Sent from my iPad
Carol Caseber

On Jul 3, 2014, at 11:00 PM, "ccaseber ccaseber@... [janome12000]" <janome12000@...> wrote:

 

I can't find updates on I Tune store. did you?

Sent from my iPad
Carol Caseber


Weak from weeks spent lost in an Ikea store, Jim says:
Open the "App Store" icon on your iPad. At the bottom of the screen touch "Updates". This will show all of the updates for apps that you have installed.


Re: Upper Thread Broken Warning

audrey <Contessa@...>
 

Thanks Jim, but that was one of the first things I checked. The thread is definitely in the take up lever.How do I check if it’s in the tension discs?
Is there a way of getting the front off to see if thread is caught up elsewhere? I had some metallic thread caught up prior to this happening and fear some may still be caught in the machine. The side opening doesn’t allow you to see much. Thanks so much for trying to help me.


Trying not to leave out important facts, Jim says:
There's a high probability that some of the metallic thread has balled up between the tension discs, holding them open so you don't have tension. You may be able to work it out by folding a strip of fabric in half and using the folded edge to "floss" through the tension discs. Another technique I've used is to use a long, thin needle or stiff wire to gently probe the tension slot. Don't even think about removing covers. There are hidden screws and sensor wires that make the task extremely error prone without a guide. If you can't get it out on your own see your dealer for assistance.


Unable to open Digitizer jr.

septyaya
 

I just went from Windows XP to Windows 7 I am unable to open digitzer jr after loading it on the computer. I get this error message --unable to acess HASP SRM Run-time environment H0033--Please advise Elizabeth Tighe


Reluctant to do Windows, Jim says:
When you move to a new computer you have to reinstall your programs from the original media. This means that none of the updates have been applied. Go to this page and install the updates for Digitizer Jr. Then things should work properly again.