Re: About to toss this machine out the window!


Jim Stutsman
 

We once bought a very large quantity of bobbins at a really good price, only to discover that nearly every one of them had a burr. This is called "flashing" and it comes from the plastic injected into the mold backing up slightly into the fill hole. We spent hours filing and cleaning them. After that we bought only Janome bobbins, part #102261103. The number we bought has embedded that part number firmly into my memory. The current incarnation of that part has a small amount of rubber mixed in with the plastic, giving the bobbin a better grip, and making them smoother running. Rather than toss your pre-wounds, you could just wind the thread onto genuine Janome bobbins. That way you'll still get the use of them.

Your bobbin case is probably NOT a generic. Janome cases do not have any brand information on them, and may not have much of a red dot.

If everything is smooth until you get to a specific stitch area, there are a couple of possibilities. First would be the direction the thread is being pulled to make the stitch. I've had cases where embroidery was perfect until the direction of the carriage changed, and then it would mess up. Usually this was due to a crack in the plastic P foot in use at the time. When the thread was pulled over the crack, it would catch. You can repeat your test and see if there is anything about the area of problem that is causing the thread to be pulled in a different direction.

The other possibility is the type of stitching in the problem area. If the stitching is very dense, it may be hard to pull up the stitches through threads from previous stitches. A stitch that isn't pulled up fast enough can catch, and that will make the bobbin rattle and jump. Very short stitches can also be a problem. For example, a satin stitch that is 1mm long, as in an outline, will have big problems with a size 14 needle, which is 1.4mm in diameter. This results in two stitches being made in the same needle hole. That can cause loops, jams, rattling, and more. In such cases the solution is to use a finer thread (e.g. 60wt or 80wt) and a smaller needle, such as 8 or 9.

Replacing the hook race is expensive, and need only be done when there is damage that cannot be buffed out. I probably did it no more than 8 or 10 times in 25 years. If you had enough damage to warrant replacement, you would have constant problems and your dealer would (should) have recognized the cause.

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