5Watter Alive!


Tim Tyler II
 
Edited

And then I completely screwed up. I got all the alignment steps done, everything was working great.

Then, when I disconnected my ammeter, I failed to notice THAT I HOOKED MY POWER BACK UP TO THE J3 header on the board.....12v+ to ground, ground to the 5v+. Now I have no keyer, and a suspiciously bad sound on receive. Looking at the schematic, my imagination is running wild as far as what all I probably killed on this thing. I’m wondering if I should just start over with a new one at this point.

Any ideas? I’m hoping all I did was take out the 78L05 in the keyer circuit. I’m so ticked off at myself right now. It was working!

Tim NC0Q

PS I have some pics here of the enclosure, but I’m trying to figure out how to resize them...


Mont Pierce KM6WT
 

On Fri, Jan 8, 2021 at 05:19 PM, Tim Tyler II wrote:
I failed to notice THAT I HOOKED MY POWER BACK UP TO THE J3 header on the board.....12v+ to ground, ground to the 5v+.
Not sure exactly what you mean.  Sounds like you applied power to J3 instead of J1 ?

Whenever I have HOT pins, like on J3, I usually install a socket instead of header pins.  I don't like header pins sticking up out in the open with power on them where I might accidentally short them out.

Also, the socket reminds me that this jack supplies power out to other devices, rather than power in to the board.

On my J3, I used the same type socket used for Q1A and Q1B.

anyways, sorry to hear about your woes...


With power applied to J1, are you seeing the proper voltages on each of the ICs? 
U1 should be fine, as it's only turned on during XMIT.  So, should not have been affected.

In other words, do the voltage regulators appear to still be working ok?

You could then start replacing the ICs, starting with U5, and U4.

U2 and U3 may also be ok, since they are NOT connected to +5 or +12, but are on the other side of the 8V regulator.  Check if they still have 8V on their Vcc pin 8.


Of course, you can always buy/build another 5Watter if all else fails.  They are great fun to build. :)  :)


73
km6wt


Tim Tyler II
 

On Fri, Jan 8, 2021 at 06:04 PM, Mont Pierce KM6WT wrote:
On Fri, Jan 8, 2021 at 05:19 PM, Tim Tyler II wrote:
I failed to notice THAT I HOOKED MY POWER BACK UP TO THE J3 header on the board.....12v+ to ground, ground to the 5v+.
Not sure exactly what you mean.  Sounds like you applied power to J3 instead of J1 ?

Whenever I have HOT pins, like on J3, I usually install a socket instead of header pins.  I don't like header pins sticking up out in the open with power on them where I might accidentally short them out.

Also, the socket reminds me that this jack supplies power out to other devices, rather than power in to the board.

On my J3, I used the same type socket used for Q1A and Q1B.

anyways, sorry to hear about your woes...


With power applied to J1, are you seeing the proper voltages on each of the ICs? 
U1 should be fine, as it's only turned on during XMIT.  So, should not have been affected.

In other words, do the voltage regulators appear to still be working ok?

You could then start replacing the ICs, starting with U5, and U4.

U2 and U3 may also be ok, since they are NOT connected to +5 or +12, but are on the other side of the 8V regulator.  Check if they still have 8V on their Vcc pin 8.


Of course, you can always buy/build another 5Watter if all else fails.  They are great fun to build. :)  :)


73
km6wt

 Yes. I connected power to J3. 12V to the ground pin, ground to the 5V pin. I’m thinking I only took out the keyer chip and possibly the 78L05 regulator...I’m not immediately seeing anything else on the board that gets 5 volts...

I should have had J3 blocked as you mentioned. Oh well. 

Tim 


Tim Tyler II
 

So now that I’ve cooled off enough to check, I can see that 78L05, U6, is hotter than a pistol and putting out 9 volts instead of 5... all the 12/8 volts are good, so maybe I only dinked the regulator and possibly the keyer. I think U6 is making the nasty noise I’m hearing in the receiver. I’ll pull it from the board tomorrow and see how it sounds after that.


Mont Pierce KM6WT
 

On Fri, Jan 8, 2021 at 06:14 PM, Tim Tyler II wrote:
I’m thinking I only took out the keyer chip and possibly the 78L05 regulator...I’m not immediately seeing anything else on the board that gets 5 volts...
I suspect you are right.  :)

I should have had J3 blocked as you mentioned.
It might be worth the effort to desolder/pull the header from J3.  If you slide off the plastic, each pin can easily be desoldered and pulled individually.


73
km6wt


Tim Tyler II
 

You can be sure that J3 is going bye-bye when I am desoldering U6.


 

Tim...I'll add a caution note to my documentation.

Same thing happened to me once but I just sluffed it off.

-Diz, W8DIZ

On 1/8/21 9:58 PM, Tim Tyler II wrote:
You can be sure that J3 is going bye-bye when I am desoldering U6.


Tim Tyler II
 

Should I assume the aTtiny45 is roached, or were you able to just replace U6?

It was a dumb mistake, probably caused by my elation from having a fully functioning rig with no bugs on the first power-up, and working around the separated enclosure top with various connecting harnesses obscuring my field of view. Also, I only just recently started wearing reading glasses for stuff like this and I probably should have had them on my face. At least they were dangling from my neck on a lanyard, that’s a start.

Tim


Mont Pierce KM6WT
 

On Sat, Jan 9, 2021 at 07:47 AM, Tim Tyler II wrote:
Should I assume the aTtiny45 is roached, or were you able to just replace U6?
Yes.

If you measured 9V on the output pin the 7805 regulator, that is definitely going to fry the keyer chip.  :(


73
km6wt


 

You might remove the 5 volt regulator and place a 1K resistor across the IN/OUT ports of the 78L05 and

see what happens..should be somewhere near 5 volts on the keyer

-Diz

On 1/9/21 10:47 AM, Tim Tyler II wrote:
Should I assume the aTtiny45 is roached, or were you able to just replace U6?

It was a dumb mistake, probably caused by my elation from having a fully functioning rig with no bugs on the first power-up, and working around the separated enclosure top with various connecting harnesses obscuring my field of view. Also, I only just recently started wearing reading glasses for stuff like this and I probably should have had them on my face. At least they were dangling from my neck on a lanyard, that’s a start.

Tim


Tim Tyler II
 

Great idea. It took a 2k ohm resistor to drop the voltage to 5V at pin 8 with the chip in the socket...no signs of life. So now I know!

Tim


 

I placed an order with mouser last hour for 100 pieces ATtiny45-20PU embryo keyer chips,

in case we have more folks having fun mixing up connectors.

Yea, I know it's my fault for allowing you to make errors :)

-Diz

On 1/9/21 1:03 PM, Tim Tyler II wrote:
Great idea. It took a 2k ohm resistor to drop the voltage to 5V at pin 8 with the chip in the socket...no signs of life. So now I know!

Tim


Robert Holsti
 

Is there updated code for the ATtiny. I don't like to enter one letter at a time between beeps to program a memory.

Its a PIA.  If so, then I can get rid of the Arduino Keyer I am using.

 


 

Sorry it's a PIA;  no update...version 4 is the latest.

You're welcome to the source code...maybe write an updated version?

https://kitsandparts.com/keyer/

https://kitsandparts.com/keyer/1W-U-keyerV4.asm

-Diz

On 1/20/21 10:31 PM, Robert Holsti via groups.io wrote:

Is there updated code for the ATtiny. I don't like to enter one letter at a time between beeps to program a memory.

Its a PIA.  If so, then I can get rid of the Arduino Keyer I am using.

 


Tim Tyler II
 

Okay I finally got time to replace the 5v regulator and keyer IC. All is well! Thank you Diz!

Tim
NC0Q


 

Great...did you remove the AUX connector?

-Diz

On 1/22/21 9:36 PM, Tim Tyler II wrote:
Okay I finally got time to replace the 5v regulator and keyer IC. All is well! Thank you Diz!

Tim
NC0Q


Tim Tyler II
 

Yeah, I removed J3 since I had the board out anyway, because I can see myself five years down the road repeating the mistake. A hazard of being a burnout from the 90’s.

I’m looking forward to starting on the 5W17x. That build will not take place in three sittings like the 40 because I now lack the luxury of supposedly having Covid and being quarantined.

I really appreciate the availability of this project. Back when I first got licensed (10yrs?) I really wanted to try one of the Ten-Tec kits but I never took advantage before they folded up. Building kits is even more cathartic and rewarding than I imagined it could be, so thank you.

Tim 
NC0Q