Sounds like your making good progress.
On the display, make sure you have the
jumper to the reset pin connected. But you got an image when
you first powered up, so that should be fine, along with the
contrast setting. You could try going to the contrast setting
by holding the function switch closed for 10 seconds, then
turning the encoder clockwise. But if that doesn’t bring up an
image, I’d turn power off so the new setting isn’t stored and
look for other reasons it might not be coming on.
Before I was sure I wanted to solder in the
display, I just used friction to hold it in place against the
SIP pins. Put a little piece of cardboard or something under
the top edge to angle the display against the SIP pins to hold
it in place.
The box I shipped the kit in could make a
good temporary case. I remember seeing a small speaker cabinet
made from a shoe box by coating it with a layer of fiberglass
resin to stiffen it up. That could be applied to the
cardboard box. Although this is the wrong time of year to be
mixing fiberglass resin for a lot of people since you want to
do that outside.
73, Steve KD1JV
Just finished the
build for 40m. Didn't hit any more snags that weren't my
For winding the coils, 12" of wire should be long enough for
though there's plenty of wire left that longer should be
I don't have a case picked out yet, so I mounted the display
at the very tip of the
header. Same for the PCB side that way I can clip in the
middle and remove each
pin when I'm ready. I'm looking at some enclosures from
They're not cheap, but they have an impressive variety
including waterproof and
RF sealed enclosures. I'm thinking of the CF11-11BB or
EXP12- 4-13, but I'll probably
just design another case. In the meantime, I think I'll put
it in one of the AllPCB
delivery boxes that seem to be accumulating...
I found that actually putting the uC in the socket helps
things run a little better.
The display showed an image until I moved the encoder when
the radio asked me
to select the operating band.
I power cycled it and now the display is not coming up.
Actually I had decided to sleep,
but just had to try to hear my function generator. Should
have just gone to sleep.
Audio's working fine. First guess is that communications
with the SiLabs chip isn't working, but that
will have to wait until tonight.
On 2/8/2019 1:34 PM, Steven Weber wrote:
You should know
by now that if I decide to change a value, sometimes that
change doesn’t make to the schematic. If this is the only
case, I did real good this time. Surprised I missed
changing it on the location diagram, but updating those
files is a bit more work.
I think I was
originally going to use ORG/BLK for the 3.3’s but then
decided ORG/ORG made more sense.
I wasn’t sure
if R44 was going to be needed or not, turns out it wasn’t.
Apparently forgot to note that.
73, Steve KD1JV
I hit a few
documentation and parts issues that I'll need to resolve:
1. R43 is
listed as 470 Ohms on the value/location table. The
location diagram shows it as 1K. I have a left over 470
so I'm pretty sure that's the one.
2. R52 isn't
colored in the location diagram (non issue really)
missing the 3.3 pF caps. Oh, just noticed the overall BOM
marked as ORG/BLK as opposed to ORG/ORG in the capacitor
4. R44 is