Topics

IC 7000 Quit - Now alive and well!

Doug Neal
 

Hi Everybody:
Thanks for all your input on this matter.
Sherlock Holmes once said: "when you've eliminated all other factors, the one that remains must be the truth" This is the case.here!
The battery terminals looked oK but that's where the problem lay.. If I had considered the
problem more, I might have concluded that since work was recently done on the car for an airbag safety recall the battery connections had been disturbed  It was a short time after that that the problem occurred. Meanwhile,  I now have nice clean fuse holders and corrections to the remote head. I even soldered the crimps inside the fuse holders, I didn't think anything was wrong with the way the crimp lugs were under the the bolts on the  battery clips, but when I finally took them off, what a mess underneath those nuts, it was something else. A quick cleaning did the trick. I'm surprised the car functioned at all, but it must have gotten connection on the underside of the metal plate, in my Toyota the battery has a clip around the post that comes out to a flat piece of metal, with a nut and bolt on it, there are three metal plates, stacked with various wires leaving them, while the top part is where the radio was connected it was not making connection there. Back up and running as of yesterday.
73 to all de Doug, Vo1DWN
   

Jim Szalajeski
 

You might want to go to your electrical store, Lowe's and maybe Home Depot to see if they carry a grease used in the electrical field called Penetrox, made by Burndy.  It is sort of a copper black or so color.  If you get any on your fingers, it is hard to get it off.  It comes in a 4 oz. white squeeze container. 

I put it on any electrical connection that may get moisture on it.  it is also a good anti seize compound.  So it works just fine for battery connections. 

Jim 




On Friday, July 19, 2019, 8:58:05 AM CDT, Doug Neal <vo1.dwn@...> wrote:


Hi Everybody:
Thanks for all your input on this matter.
Sherlock Holmes once said: "when you've eliminated all other factors, the one that remains must be the truth" This is the case.here!
The battery terminals looked oK but that's where the problem lay.. If I had considered the
problem more, I might have concluded that since work was recently done on the car for an airbag safety recall the battery connections had been disturbed  It was a short time after that that the problem occurred. Meanwhile,  I now have nice clean fuse holders and corrections to the remote head. I even soldered the crimps inside the fuse holders, I didn't think anything was wrong with the way the crimp lugs were under the the bolts on the  battery clips, but when I finally took them off, what a mess underneath those nuts, it was something else. A quick cleaning did the trick. I'm surprised the car functioned at all, but it must have gotten connection on the underside of the metal plate, in my Toyota the battery has a clip around the post that comes out to a flat piece of metal, with a nut and bolt on it, there are three metal plates, stacked with various wires leaving them, while the top part is where the radio was connected it was not making connection there. Back up and running as of yesterday.
73 to all de Doug, Vo1DWN
   

D C *Mac* Macdonald
 

I am reasonably sure that DX Engineering also carries it or at least a substitute.  You can also get it from Mosley antennas as they specify it for their antennas.
 
73 de Mac, K2GKK/5​
Since 30 Nov 1953​
Oklahoma City, OK​
USAF, Retired ('61-'81)​
FAA, Retired ('94-'10)


From: ic7000@groups.io <ic7000@groups.io> on behalf of Jim Szalajeski via Groups.Io <jimszal@...>
Sent: Friday, August 2, 2019 20:48
To: ic7000@groups.io <ic7000@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [ic7000] IC 7000 Quit - Now alive and well!
 
You might want to go to your electrical store, Lowe's and maybe Home Depot to see if they carry a grease used in the electrical field called Penetrox, made by Burndy.  It is sort of a copper black or so color.  If you get any on your fingers, it is hard to get it off.  It comes in a 4 oz. white squeeze container. 

I put it on any electrical connection that may get moisture on it.  it is also a good anti seize compound.  So it works just fine for battery connections. 

Jim 




On Friday, July 19, 2019, 8:58:05 AM CDT, Doug Neal <vo1.dwn@...> wrote:


Hi Everybody:
Thanks for all your input on this matter.
Sherlock Holmes once said: "when you've eliminated all other factors, the one that remains must be the truth" This is the case.here!
The battery terminals looked oK but that's where the problem lay.. If I had considered the
problem more, I might have concluded that since work was recently done on the car for an airbag safety recall the battery connections had been disturbed  It was a short time after that that the problem occurred. Meanwhile,  I now have nice clean fuse holders and corrections to the remote head. I even soldered the crimps inside the fuse holders, I didn't think anything was wrong with the way the crimp lugs were under the the bolts on the  battery clips, but when I finally took them off, what a mess underneath those nuts, it was something else. A quick cleaning did the trick. I'm surprised the car functioned at all, but it must have gotten connection on the underside of the metal plate, in my Toyota the battery has a clip around the post that comes out to a flat piece of metal, with a nut and bolt on it, there are three metal plates, stacked with various wires leaving them, while the top part is where the radio was connected it was not making connection there. Back up and running as of yesterday.
73 to all de Doug, Vo1DWN
 

Doug Neal
 

Hi Jim and Mac.:
I will look for this as I can see many uses. I live right by the sea it's always difficult keeping connections or anything else
clean from corrosion. I did not mention it, but, I also coated the battery terminals and those plate assemblies
with petroleum gelly. once they were cleaned and reassembled. The problem was looking at the battery terminals and
the associated plate assemblies there was no evidence of any corrosion until the assembly was taken apart.
Thanks
Doug 

Rick Robinson
 

If you are near an auto parts store you can buy copper based Felpro anti seize. basically the same stuff but less cost and very versatile. i compared the MSDS sheets and both list copper powder and aluminum powder as the top ingredients and the fel Pro also has zinc powder. The fel pro has a much higher percentage of copper and aluminum powders. I have used this on antenna joints, ground systems, car batterys and more. It has never washed off my 5 ground rod system in many years. As mentioned, a little will spread a long way and require some through washing. 

On 8/2/2019 9:48 PM, Jim Szalajeski via Groups.Io wrote:
You might want to go to your electrical store, Lowe's and maybe Home Depot to see if they carry a grease used in the electrical field called Penetrox, made by Burndy.  It is sort of a copper black or so color.  If you get any on your fingers, it is hard to get it off.  It comes in a 4 oz. white squeeze container. 

I put it on any electrical connection that may get moisture on it.  it is also a good anti seize compound.  So it works just fine for battery connections. 

Jim 




On Friday, July 19, 2019, 8:58:05 AM CDT, Doug Neal <vo1.dwn@...> wrote:


Hi Everybody:
Thanks for all your input on this matter.
Sherlock Holmes once said: "when you've eliminated all other factors, the one that remains must be the truth" This is the case.here!
The battery terminals looked oK but that's where the problem lay.. If I had considered the
problem more, I might have concluded that since work was recently done on the car for an airbag safety recall the battery connections had been disturbed  It was a short time after that that the problem occurred. Meanwhile,  I now have nice clean fuse holders and corrections to the remote head. I even soldered the crimps inside the fuse holders, I didn't think anything was wrong with the way the crimp lugs were under the the bolts on the  battery clips, but when I finally took them off, what a mess underneath those nuts, it was something else. A quick cleaning did the trick. I'm surprised the car functioned at all, but it must have gotten connection on the underside of the metal plate, in my Toyota the battery has a clip around the post that comes out to a flat piece of metal, with a nut and bolt on it, there are three metal plates, stacked with various wires leaving them, while the top part is where the radio was connected it was not making connection there. Back up and running as of yesterday.
73 to all de Doug, Vo1DWN
   
-- 
Rick, W8ZT
WVDXA

Virus-free. www.avast.com

Doug Neal
 

Thanks Rick:
I'll look for it and ask some people I know in the automotive parts business.
Felpro sounds good, antennas are particularly hard to maintain in this environment.
Everything corrodes or rusts. While it's nice to look out the window and see the ocean, you pay the price, with everything from house repairs to antennas, and rusting cars. After a wind storm my windows are just coated with salt. 
Doug 

Doug Neal
 



On Sat, Aug 3, 2019 at 12:14 PM Rick Robinson <w8zt@...> wrote:

If you are near an auto parts store you can buy copper based Felpro anti seize. basically the same stuff but less cost and very versatile. i compared the MSDS sheets and both list copper powder and aluminum powder as the top ingredients and the fel Pro also has zinc powder. The fel pro has a much higher percentage of copper and aluminum powders. I have used this on antenna joints, ground systems, car batterys and more. It has never washed off my 5 ground rod system in many years. As mentioned, a little will spread a long way and require some through washing. 

On 8/2/2019 9:48 PM, Jim Szalajeski via Groups.Io wrote:
You might want to go to your electrical store, Lowe's and maybe Home Depot to see if they carry a grease used in the electrical field called Penetrox, made by Burndy.  It is sort of a copper black or so color.  If you get any on your fingers, it is hard to get it off.  It comes in a 4 oz. white squeeze container. 

I put it on any electrical connection that may get moisture on it.  it is also a good anti seize compound.  So it works just fine for battery connections. 

Jim 




On Friday, July 19, 2019, 8:58:05 AM CDT, Doug Neal <vo1.dwn@...> wrote:


Hi Everybody:
Thanks for all your input on this matter.
Sherlock Holmes once said: "when you've eliminated all other factors, the one that remains must be the truth" This is the case.here!
The battery terminals looked oK but that's where the problem lay.. If I had considered the
problem more, I might have concluded that since work was recently done on the car for an airbag safety recall the battery connections had been disturbed  It was a short time after that that the problem occurred. Meanwhile,  I now have nice clean fuse holders and corrections to the remote head. I even soldered the crimps inside the fuse holders, I didn't think anything was wrong with the way the crimp lugs were under the the bolts on the  battery clips, but when I finally took them off, what a mess underneath those nuts, it was something else. A quick cleaning did the trick. I'm surprised the car functioned at all, but it must have gotten connection on the underside of the metal plate, in my Toyota the battery has a clip around the post that comes out to a flat piece of metal, with a nut and bolt on it, there are three metal plates, stacked with various wires leaving them, while the top part is where the radio was connected it was not making connection there. Back up and running as of yesterday.
73 to all de Doug, Vo1DWN
   
-- 
Rick, W8ZT
WVDXA

Virus-free. www.avast.com

Bill M
 

I live near the ocean in South Florida on a salt water canal. All in our local DX Club the SFDXA have long ago solved the aluminum corrosion issue. We use NOALUX. Check your local Grainger or buy it online. Power company uses it on their ground connections.  
Bill W2CQ

Helmut Wabnig <hwabnig@...>
 

On Sun, 04 Aug 2019 06:57:30 -0700, you wrote:

I live near the ocean in South Florida on a salt water canal. All in our local DX Club the SFDXA have long ago solved the aluminum corrosion issue. We use NOALUX. Check your local Grainger or buy it online. Power company uses it on their ground connections.
Bill W2CQ

It's NOALOX, right?
That one is on Amazon.

W.

Helmut Wabnig <hwabnig@...>
 

On Sun, 04 Aug 2019 06:57:30 -0700, you wrote:

NOALUX
Bill W2CQ

It's NOALOX, right?
That one is on Amazon.


Meanwhile I searched for it. Did not know this product before.
Is based on petroleum oil,
added some organic oil with hardener I suppose
(Like some ordinary laque) or is it rather like a grease?
and contains fine zinc powder they say.

Very interesting thing. Normally zinc and copper eat each other
electrolytically, but the laque encapsulates the contact points.
I wonder ablout that.

I will order one and try it out,
thank you for the information.

OE8UWW

J.D. Barron
 

I use a similar product to when assembling antennas here in Florida.
Often you have to take everything apart, clean, brighten, slather messy stuff on, reassemble.
Repeat as necessary.
I brought two DX77A verticals back to life doing this.
I bought two from a ham who did not do this and sold them for scrap at a hamfest!
$10.00 for them and an AV12AVQ vertical as well.
I tunes one for the CW and digital end of the bands and the other for the phone.
They work well with my IC7000s 

jadief@reagan.com
 

"NOALOX" - No Aluminum Oxide

 

Originally designed for Al-Cu (aluminum-copper) electrical outlets, etc., that were used with aluminum electrical wire & copper-plated electrical outlets & wall switches (etc.) to prevent oxide-created issues.

 

jd, K1TLV

 

 

-----Original Message-----

From: "Helmut Wabnig" <hwabnig@...>
Sent: Sunday, August 4, 2019 9:21am
To: ic7000@groups.io
Subject: Re: [ic7000] IC 7000 Quit - Now alive and well!

On Sun, 04 Aug 2019 06:57:30 -0700, you wrote:

>NOALUX
>Bill W2CQ
>


It's NOALOX, right?
That one is on Amazon.


Meanwhile I searched for it. Did not know this product before.
Is based on petroleum oil,
added some organic oil with hardener I suppose
(Like some ordinary laque) or is it rather like a grease?
and contains fine zinc powder they say.

Very interesting thing. Normally zinc and copper eat each other
electrolytically, but the laque encapsulates the contact points.
I wonder ablout that.

I will order one and try it out,
thank you for the information.

OE8UWW



Doug Neal
 

Hi Bill:
Lots of great and useful info going via this group. I will look for that Noalux product
Thanks
73 de Doug

D C *Mac* Macdonald
 

No Aluminum Oxidation!

I've assembled Mosley (and other) antennas using the Noalox and Penetrox for years (since 1963).  They disassemble and reassemble easily, even after many years in the air!  I believe the stuff is basically powdered aluminum in a petroleum jelly base.  And yes, it is a pain to get it off your fingers, hands, and clothes!

DX Engineering sells a similar product that seems to substitute powdered copper for the powdered aluminum.  That will also do the job.
 
73 de Mac, K2GKK/5​
Since 30 Nov 1953​
Oklahoma City, OK​
USAF, Retired ('61-'81)​
FAA, Retired ('94-'10)​
 



From: ic7000@groups.io <ic7000@groups.io> on behalf of jadief@... via Groups.Io <jadief@...>
Sent: Sunday, August 4, 2019 09:36
To: ic7000@groups.io <ic7000@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [ic7000] IC 7000 Quit - Now alive and well!
 

"NOALOX" - No Aluminum Oxide

 

Originally designed for Al-Cu (aluminum-copper) electrical outlets, etc., that were used with aluminum electrical wire & copper-plated electrical outlets & wall switches (etc.) to prevent oxide-created issues.

 

jd, K1TLV

 

 

-----Original Message-----

From: "Helmut Wabnig" <hwabnig@...>
Sent: Sunday, August 4, 2019 9:21am
To: ic7000@groups.io
Subject: Re: [ic7000] IC 7000 Quit - Now alive and well!

On Sun, 04 Aug 2019 06:57:30 -0700, you wrote:

>NOALUX
>Bill W2CQ
>


It's NOALOX, right?
That one is on Amazon.


Meanwhile I searched for it. Did not know this product before.
Is based on petroleum oil,
added some organic oil with hardener I suppose
(Like some ordinary laque) or is it rather like a grease?
and contains fine zinc powder they say.

Very interesting thing. Normally zinc and copper eat each other
electrolytically, but the laque encapsulates the contact points.
I wonder ablout that.

I will order one and try it out,
thank you for the information.

OE8UWW



Doug Neal
 

Mac:
Sounds like what I looking for the antennas, I will seek some out before the bad weather starts and my antenna exploits
are ended for the year.
73 de doug


On Sun, Aug 4, 2019 at 2:11 PM D C *Mac* Macdonald <k2gkk@...> wrote:
No Aluminum Oxidation!

I've assembled Mosley (and other) antennas using the Noalox and Penetrox for years (since 1963).  They disassemble and reassemble easily, even after many years in the air!  I believe the stuff is basically powdered aluminum in a petroleum jelly base.  And yes, it is a pain to get it off your fingers, hands, and clothes!

DX Engineering sells a similar product that seems to substitute powdered copper for the powdered aluminum.  That will also do the job.
 
73 de Mac, K2GKK/5​
Since 30 Nov 1953​
Oklahoma City, OK​
USAF, Retired ('61-'81)​
FAA, Retired ('94-'10)​
 



From: ic7000@groups.io <ic7000@groups.io> on behalf of jadief@... via Groups.Io <jadief=reagan.com@groups.io>
Sent: Sunday, August 4, 2019 09:36
To: ic7000@groups.io <ic7000@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [ic7000] IC 7000 Quit - Now alive and well!
 

"NOALOX" - No Aluminum Oxide

 

Originally designed for Al-Cu (aluminum-copper) electrical outlets, etc., that were used with aluminum electrical wire & copper-plated electrical outlets & wall switches (etc.) to prevent oxide-created issues.

 

jd, K1TLV

 

 

-----Original Message-----

From: "Helmut Wabnig" <hwabnig@...>
Sent: Sunday, August 4, 2019 9:21am
To: ic7000@groups.io
Subject: Re: [ic7000] IC 7000 Quit - Now alive and well!

On Sun, 04 Aug 2019 06:57:30 -0700, you wrote:

>NOALUX
>Bill W2CQ
>


It's NOALOX, right?
That one is on Amazon.


Meanwhile I searched for it. Did not know this product before.
Is based on petroleum oil,
added some organic oil with hardener I suppose
(Like some ordinary laque) or is it rather like a grease?
and contains fine zinc powder they say.

Very interesting thing. Normally zinc and copper eat each other
electrolytically, but the laque encapsulates the contact points.
I wonder ablout that.

I will order one and try it out,
thank you for the information.

OE8UWW



Bill M
 

Yes it’s NOALOX. I’m traveling and using my iPhone to respond. Spell check played havoc with it and I had to retype it several times hi. 

 And yes it gets on everything. But it works to perfection on joints. I recently disassembled some elements over 25 years old and they slid apart easily. 

I looked at what Amazon is selling and the branded product seems to be very expensive. I’m sure someone can come up with a less expensive version to buy. My small pint is 30 years old and haven’t bought it in a while hi.
73,

Rick Robinson
 

Fel Pro copper based anti seize, sold on amazon for around 10-15, depending on size. tubing,battery's ,ground rods. Anything you want to prevent from oxidizing.

On 8/5/2019 10:20 AM, Bill M wrote:
Yes it’s NOALOX. I’m traveling and using my iPhone to respond. Spell check played havoc with it and I had to retype it several times hi. 

 And yes it gets on everything. But it works to perfection on joints. I recently disassembled some elements over 25 years old and they slid apart easily. 

I looked at what Amazon is selling and the branded product seems to be very expensive. I’m sure someone can come up with a less expensive version to buy. My small pint is 30 years old and haven’t bought it in a while hi.
73,
-- 
Rick, W8ZT
WVDXA

Virus-free. www.avast.com

Bill M
 

By now this is well off topic...but I must say the packages I saw will do many antennas. A little goes a long way. 
Bill W2CQ