Topics

IC 7000 Quit

Doug VO1DWN
 

Hello
My 7000 is used mobile, I hadn't usedthe car in over a week and car battery went flat, when I got in the radio was making a clicking noise, seemed to be from the Spkr.
There was no display, and could not turn the radio off, I had to pull 30A fuse to shut radio down.
When the battery was charged, I put the fuse back and powered up the rig, It came to life, dispay worked, everything seemed Ok, Then it went dead a couple of minutes later (Rx only)
The next time I looked down, No display and clicking noise breifly, then completely dead. Since then t has not powered up, Have checked the 30- amp fuse and the
13.6 volts is present at the power connector, (but without any load, I saw this in another post today). will try 30 amp fuse holder, but I did wiggle the fuse and nothing
happened at the radio. I have checked a few caps in the unit and the head but they seem ok, I read somewhere that this could be the problem, also checked the 5 amp fuse inside.
at the board contacts seem Ok as well, I really don't want to start disassenbling the radio as it is quite compact. Wondering if anyone here has any ideas about
what the issue might be. I'm not happy as this will be the first time I've ever contemplated sending a radio for service. But I feel it's just to small, I've replaced some surface mount chips
before but not as complex as the stuff inside this radio.
Help, please.
Doug

Roger Taylor
 

I had a problem with my IC7100, which uses the same power cable, today.

It turned out that the 0 V fuse/holder combination had a high resistance and I was getting ABOUT a 2 V drop across it.

Worth a look at both the fuses in the power lead.

Roger, GW4HZA

On 12/07/2019 21:06, Doug VO1DWN wrote:
Hello
My 7000 is used mobile, I hadn't usedthe car in over a week and car battery went flat, when I got in the radio was making a clicking noise, seemed to be from the Spkr.
There was no display, and could not turn the radio off, I had to pull 30A fuse to shut radio down.
When the battery was charged, I put the fuse back and powered up the rig, It came to life, dispay worked, everything seemed Ok, Then it went dead a couple of minutes later (Rx only)
The next time I looked down, No display and clicking noise breifly, then completely dead. Since then t has not powered up, Have checked the 30- amp fuse and the
13.6 volts is present at the power connector, (but without any load, I saw this in another post today). will try 30 amp fuse holder, but I did wiggle the fuse and nothing
happened at the radio. I have checked a few caps in the unit and the head but they seem ok, I read somewhere that this could be the problem, also checked the 5 amp fuse inside.
at the board contacts seem Ok as well, I really don't want to start disassenbling the radio as it is quite compact. Wondering if anyone here has any ideas about
what the issue might be. I'm not happy as this will be the first time I've ever contemplated sending a radio for service. But I feel it's just to small, I've replaced some surface mount chips
before but not as complex as the stuff inside this radio.
Help, please.
Doug

J.D. Barron
 

There is a common problem where the radio will click the power relay on for a brief time and ten click off, the so called click - click failure where the front panel get power but does not send the data back to the logic board and the logic board opens the relay (for the second  click).
Is this what you are getting now?

Geoff
 

Doug, might try cleaning the front panel pins with some isopropyl. Also measure the volts at the antenna tuner jack to be sure the full 13.8v is actually getting into the radio.

Cheers
Geoff

.

On 13 Jul 2019, at 06:06, Doug VO1DWN <dneal@...> wrote:

Hello
My 7000 is used mobile, I hadn't usedthe car in over a week and car battery went flat, when I got in the radio was making a clicking noise, seemed to be from the Spkr.
There was no display, and could not turn the radio off, I had to pull 30A fuse to shut radio down.
When the battery was charged, I put the fuse back and powered up the rig, It came to life, dispay worked, everything seemed Ok, Then it went dead a couple of minutes later (Rx only)
The next time I looked down, No display and clicking noise breifly, then completely dead. Since then t has not powered up, Have checked the 30- amp fuse and the
13.6 volts is present at the power connector, (but without any load, I saw this in another post today). will try 30 amp fuse holder, but I did wiggle the fuse and nothing
happened at the radio. I have checked a few caps in the unit and the head but they seem ok, I read somewhere that this could be the problem, also checked the 5 amp fuse inside.
at the board contacts seem Ok as well, I really don't want to start disassenbling the radio as it is quite compact. Wondering if anyone here has any ideas about
what the issue might be. I'm not happy as this will be the first time I've ever contemplated sending a radio for service. But I feel it's just to small, I've replaced some surface mount chips
before but not as complex as the stuff inside this radio.
Help, please.
Doug

Doug VO1DWN
 

Hi J.D.
This is not what's happening, the radio is completely dead. No action at all when pwr button is pushed.
The clicks I heard when definitely from the Spkr. I use the radio mobile and have the extension cable and a spkr 
up front, while the actual radio is under the drivers seat. This is why I know the clicking sound is not from the relay.
I radio always made a click or pop sound from the spkr when turning on, the sound I heard was like ity was attempting to turn on.
But that stopped and now it's completely dead. I will have top conduct further tests today.
Doug

Branko
 

Hi Doug !

Please read the manual and check the fuse underneath the front panel.
Get it out, test and clean up contacts! Then return it or replace it.
The contacts may be corroded, especially if it is in the car !!

vy 73 de Branko 9A2MW

sub, 13. srp 2019. u 12:57 Doug VO1DWN <dneal@...> napisao je:

Hi J.D.
This is not what's happening, the radio is completely dead. No action at all when pwr button is pushed.
The clicks I heard when definitely from the Spkr. I use the radio mobile and have the extension cable and a spkr 
up front, while the actual radio is under the drivers seat. This is why I know the clicking sound is not from the relay.
I radio always made a click or pop sound from the spkr when turning on, the sound I heard was like ity was attempting to turn on.
But that stopped and now it's completely dead. I will have top conduct further tests today.
Doug

Doug VO1DWN
 

Thanks Roger,
My cable only has one fuse holder in it, As I mentioned, I'm surprised that disturbing the fuse by removing it and then wigging it did not
yield some result at the radio if  a bad connection was the case, especially when the radio is only drawing less than 2A on Rx. Further tests
will have to be made today. 
Doug

Doug VO1DWN
 

Hi Geoff:
Will try to find out what voltage is at the Acc. jack.
At least then I'll know if the radio is actually getting power.
Doug

Doug VO1DWN
 

Thanks to everyone for their input,
I decided to take the radio in and bench it
I came on OK, so the problem is in the car.
either power or extender cable. I don't know why I didn't do this before,
maybe because it's confusing here with much pounding and hammering,
As we are getting new roof, working on radio on the roadside as I can't park 
in my drive way. MUCH CONFUSION!

Rory Sena
 

I have my 7000 in my work van and if the engine isn't running the radio will do the same thing. The 7000's are very sensitive too low input voltage.

Rory
N6OIL

On Sat, Jul 13, 2019 at 8:37 AM Doug VO1DWN <dneal@...> wrote:
Thanks to everyone for their input,
I decided to take the radio in and bench it
I came on OK, so the problem is in the car.
either power or extender cable. I don't know why I didn't do this before,
maybe because it's confusing here with much pounding and hammering,
As we are getting new roof, working on radio on the roadside as I can't park 
in my drive way. MUCH CONFUSION!

Max White
 

I agree on this, or run it off a separate battery / 73 Max M0VNG


From: ic7000@groups.io <ic7000@groups.io> on behalf of Rory Sena <amsoiltek@...>
Sent: 13 July 2019 17:02
To: ic7000@groups.io
Subject: Re: [ic7000] IC 7000 Quit
 
I have my 7000 in my work van and if the engine isn't running the radio will do the same thing. The 7000's are very sensitive too low input voltage.

Rory
N6OIL

On Sat, Jul 13, 2019 at 8:37 AM Doug VO1DWN <dneal@...> wrote:
Thanks to everyone for their input,
I decided to take the radio in and bench it
I came on OK, so the problem is in the car.
either power or extender cable. I don't know why I didn't do this before,
maybe because it's confusing here with much pounding and hammering,
As we are getting new roof, working on radio on the roadside as I can't park 
in my drive way. MUCH CONFUSION!

Doug Neal
 

I have mine in a Toyota 4 runner, which has been nothing but trouble.
Going back to Jeeps next time. Never had a problem with them.


On Sat, Jul 13, 2019 at 1:32 PM Rory Sena <amsoiltek@...> wrote:
I have my 7000 in my work van and if the engine isn't running the radio will do the same thing. The 7000's are very sensitive too low input voltage.

Rory
N6OIL

On Sat, Jul 13, 2019 at 8:37 AM Doug VO1DWN <dneal@...> wrote:
Thanks to everyone for their input,
I decided to take the radio in and bench it
I came on OK, so the problem is in the car.
either power or extender cable. I don't know why I didn't do this before,
maybe because it's confusing here with much pounding and hammering,
As we are getting new roof, working on radio on the roadside as I can't park 
in my drive way. MUCH CONFUSION!

don ---------
 

I tore my fuse connectors apart and soldered the crimps 
That cured my radio not having 100 watt output 





Sent via the Samsung Galaxy, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Doug VO1DWN <dneal@...>
Date: 7/13/19 4:18 AM (GMT-08:00)
To: ic7000@groups.io
Subject: Re: [ic7000] IC 7000 Quit

Thanks Roger,
My cable only has one fuse holder in it, As I mentioned, I'm surprised that disturbing the fuse by removing it and then wigging it did not
yield some result at the radio if  a bad connection was the case, especially when the radio is only drawing less than 2A on Rx. Further tests
will have to be made today. 
Doug

Doug Neal
 


AH yes....., how many Power supplies have I fixed with just that problem, Hi current does not like
poor solder joints or loose stake-ons.
Doug.


On Sat, Jul 13, 2019 at 4:02 PM don --------- <ka7qqv@...> wrote:
I tore my fuse connectors apart and soldered the crimps 
That cured my radio not having 100 watt output 





Sent via the Samsung Galaxy, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Doug VO1DWN <dneal@...>
Date: 7/13/19 4:18 AM (GMT-08:00)
Subject: Re: [ic7000] IC 7000 Quit

Thanks Roger,
My cable only has one fuse holder in it, As I mentioned, I'm surprised that disturbing the fuse by removing it and then wigging it did not
yield some result at the radio if  a bad connection was the case, especially when the radio is only drawing less than 2A on Rx. Further tests
will have to be made today. 
Doug

Paul Filardi
 

Plug the head directly into the radio.  I had trouble with my 706 because of the cable 


On Jul 13, 2019, at 12:02, Rory Sena <amsoiltek@...> wrote:

I have my 7000 in my work van and if the engine isn't running the radio will do the same thing. The 7000's are very sensitive too low input voltage.

Rory
N6OIL

On Sat, Jul 13, 2019 at 8:37 AM Doug VO1DWN <dneal@...> wrote:
Thanks to everyone for their input,
I decided to take the radio in and bench it
I came on OK, so the problem is in the car.
either power or extender cable. I don't know why I didn't do this before,
maybe because it's confusing here with much pounding and hammering,
As we are getting new roof, working on radio on the roadside as I can't park 
in my drive way. MUCH CONFUSION!

Charles & Sandra Cohen
 

I'll be the third person:

. . . Clean the contacts for the remote-cable _really well_, on the faceplate, the cable, and the body.  They are prone to getting dirty, and the contact force is low.

. . . Isopropyl or methyl alcohol seems to work well.

It doesn't take much dirt to cause trouble.

.   Charles / VA7CPC

jadief@reagan.com
 

Contacts on today's electronics & communications equipment are gold-plated. Therefore, when 'cleaning' them, one must observe caution.
Gold is one of the metals used in plating that does NOT corrode, as opposed to silver & copper.

 

Use a spray-type contact cleaner that is recommended for the afore-mentioned equipment, and wipe w/a Q-Tip or cotton cloth. 

 

NEVER, EVER, ATTEMPT TO USE AN ERASER OF ANY TYPE ON ELECTRICAL CONTACTS; REMOVAL OF THE GOLD-PLATING INTRODUCES CORROSION TO THOSE CONTACTS.

The late comedian Paul Lynde once mentioned the extreme thinness of a piece of meat: "It's So Thin it Has Only One Side". That correctly describes gold-plating on electrical/electronics contacts. Take good care of it!

 

John Diefenbach, K1TLV

Mason, NH

 

-----Original Message-----
From: "Charles & Sandra Cohen via Groups.Io" <cpcohen1945@...>
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2019 1:29am
To: ic7000@groups.io
Subject: Re: [ic7000] IC 7000 Quit

I'll be the third person:

. . . Clean the contacts for the remote-cable _really well_, on the faceplate, the cable, and the body.  They are prone to getting dirty, and the contact force is low.

. . . Isopropyl or methyl alcohol seems to work well.

It doesn't take much dirt to cause trouble.

.   Charles / VA7CPC

k0fni k0fni
 

Dan/k0fni

the IC 7000 is very prone to low voltages upon start up and during operating. When this occurs it can cause the loss of components in the feedback stage to not function with the ALC circuitry. try and make sure the power output setting is as low as possible and only set with a power meter as the digital indicator is not correct. (Just a suggestion)

On July 15, 2019 at 2:29 AM "Charles & Sandra Cohen via Groups.Io" <cpcohen1945@...> wrote:

I'll be the third person:

. . . Clean the contacts for the remote-cable _really well_, on the faceplate, the cable, and the body.  They are prone to getting dirty, and the contact force is low.

. . . Isopropyl or methyl alcohol seems to work well.

It doesn't take much dirt to cause trouble.

.   Charles / VA7CPC


 

Ron Peak
 

Gosh — guess I’m the lucky guy.  I’ve had 2 IC7000s and an IC706, and the only problem I’ve had was with a noisy fan in the 706.  I’ve got a replacement fan, just haven’t installed it yet.  Only using one of the 7000s now on 2 mars, and have upgraded to an IC7300.  Guess I should sell the IC7000s and all the associated stuff.  Good luck es vy 73.  de Ron W5RRP

On Mon, Jul 15, 2019 at 6:59 PM k0fni k0fni <k0fni@...> wrote:
Dan/k0fni

the IC 7000 is very prone to low voltages upon start up and during operating. When this occurs it can cause the loss of components in the feedback stage to not function with the ALC circuitry. try and make sure the power output setting is as low as possible and only set with a power meter as the digital indicator is not correct. (Just a suggestion)

On July 15, 2019 at 2:29 AM "Charles & Sandra Cohen via Groups.Io" <cpcohen1945=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

I'll be the third person:

. . . Clean the contacts for the remote-cable _really well_, on the faceplate, the cable, and the body.  They are prone to getting dirty, and the contact force is low.

. . . Isopropyl or methyl alcohol seems to work well.

It doesn't take much dirt to cause trouble.

.   Charles / VA7CPC


 

--
Ron Peak
W5RRP
 
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  The information in this document may be privileged and confidential and protected from disclosure.  If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer.
 

Rick Robinson
 

Take the fuses out and polish them with scotch brite, steel wool, fine sand paper. They get an invisible oxidation which increases the resistance.

On 7/15/2019 7:51 PM, Ron Peak wrote:
Gosh — guess I’m the lucky guy.  I’ve had 2 IC7000s and an IC706, and the only problem I’ve had was with a noisy fan in the 706.  I’ve got a replacement fan, just haven’t installed it yet.  Only using one of the 7000s now on 2 mars, and have upgraded to an IC7300.  Guess I should sell the IC7000s and all the associated stuff.  Good luck es vy 73.  de Ron W5RRP

On Mon, Jul 15, 2019 at 6:59 PM k0fni k0fni <k0fni@...> wrote:
Dan/k0fni

the IC 7000 is very prone to low voltages upon start up and during operating. When this occurs it can cause the loss of components in the feedback stage to not function with the ALC circuitry. try and make sure the power output setting is as low as possible and only set with a power meter as the digital indicator is not correct. (Just a suggestion)

On July 15, 2019 at 2:29 AM "Charles & Sandra Cohen via Groups.Io" <cpcohen1945=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

I'll be the third person:

. . . Clean the contacts for the remote-cable _really well_, on the faceplate, the cable, and the body.  They are prone to getting dirty, and the contact force is low.

. . . Isopropyl or methyl alcohol seems to work well.

It doesn't take much dirt to cause trouble.

.   Charles / VA7CPC


 
--
Ron Peak
W5RRP
 
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  The information in this document may be privileged and confidential and protected from disclosure.  If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited.  If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer.
 
-- 
Rick, W8ZT
WVDXA

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