Anything to look for


Helmut Wabnig
 

On Sat, 02 May 2020 06:25:40 -0700, you wrote:

Hi all , new here .

Maybe just maybe i'll be getting one , secondhand of course .

Anything obvious to look for that might be a common issue ?

Not like power out/rx sensitivity and the like as they be real obvious , but anything else that might be a common problem , also going by the interweb the firmware does not get up-graded yes?.

Downloaded the manual (this radio also comes with it) , also grabbed the service manual .

Last question and thanks , a SWL here , how is the radio on the HF shortwave broadcasts , the AM filter good enough?

It'll be installed in the vehicle eventually .

Cheers Paul
Temperature is the only problem.
Install the fan mod if you put the rig in the car.
I used SSB on the AM broadcasts, select the better sideband.

OE8UWW


Mark Schoonover
 

I ran mine mobile for years in Southern California summer heat and the rig never had temp problems. I'd suggest replacing the stock blade fuses with regular barrel types but other than that my 7000 has been bullet proof. 

73! Mark KA6WKE

Website: https://www.ka6wke.net

On Sat, May 2, 2020, 11:33 Helmut Wabnig <hwabnig@...> wrote:
On Sat, 02 May 2020 06:25:40 -0700, you wrote:

>Hi all , new here .
>
>Maybe just maybe i'll be getting one , secondhand of course .
>
>Anything obvious to look for that might be a common issue ?
>
>Not like power out/rx sensitivity and the like as they be real obvious , but anything else that might be a common problem , also going by the interweb the firmware does not get up-graded yes?.
>
>Downloaded the manual (this radio also comes with it) , also grabbed the service manual .
>
>Last question and thanks , a SWL here , how is the radio on the HF shortwave broadcasts , the AM filter good enough?
>
>It'll be installed in the vehicle eventually .
>
>Cheers Paul
>

Temperature is the only problem.
Install the fan mod if you put the rig in the car.
I used SSB on the AM broadcasts, select the better sideband.

OE8UWW




Mark Schoonover
 

Paul, 

I wonder after what serial number this fix was applied? I think I bought my 7000 around the second year they were available for purchase. 


--
Mark Schoonover KA6WKE
Website: http://www.ka6wke.net


On Sat, May 2, 2020, 18:03 Paul <pg321@...> wrote:
Ok , thanks all , done deal here and on it's way next week i hope (post slow because of corona) , Waiting now  .
@Mark the fellow mentions it had a heat modification done years ago by ICOM itself .
 
Eventually the radio will live under the passenger seat i think .

@OE8UWW , whats wrong with the AM filter? too Narrow? , i'll look into it as those 9KHz wide ceramic filters are cheap enough (if that is what they use in it) , i do heaps of SWL .

cheers Paul


Bill M
 

I bought mine used 7 years ago and used it mobile for a couple of years on HF as well as for 2 meter repeaters. It is now my backup radio in the shack and still performing perfectly. Judging by how often I've had to repair my primary radio it is used a lot hi. It is set up for FT8 which I seen to use often. I chase DX with it on SSB and CW.

Some one suggested changing the fuses and while I have not don't that it is a good idea.

Going Mobile the only issue was it shutting down on transmit. RF getting into it was causing the problem. I added ferrites to the coax and that stopped that problem. If your s works in the mobile right off the bat, just use it and enjoy it.
Bill W2CQ


 

To help keep my IC-7000 cool I added two 1" fans to the rear of the heatsinks using some hot glue. I powered them from the +12 volt available at the tuner 4 pin plug on the rear. I spliced it in between a plug that goes into the radio and a second jack that an auto tuner would plug into with a small switch to turn them on and off. 
This setup helped keep the radio cooler when operating digital on FT8.
I also added a set of Anderson Power Poles to power another small (very)12 volt load.


 

Since I have sold my IC-7000s I would part with this rig for $15 plus shipping. OBO.


Paul Filardi
 

When you hook up two batteries in parallel on a vehicle the weaker battery will always discharge the stronger battery to the point where it sucks both to zero the only way to do this properly is to separate them.   You can do that using a continuous duty solenoid so they are separated when the ignition is not on.  Wire the solenoid to any circuit that comes on with the ignition switch and your problem is solved you will not take out your good battery with a weaker battery


On May 25, 2020, at 05:53, Paul <pg321@...> wrote:



[Edited Message Follows]
[Reason: add]

80M mono right
2m/70cm left

Extra copper earth strap (unpainted atm) on left , there is one on the right also (painted) , they moved resonance the up by 10KHz .

73 , Paul .
ps- so far mobile 80m ssb to ZL2 4155klm / 2100 miles, VK4 450klm up north a f call using 10w and 1 local 20klm :-)
Sigs were ZL2 him S9 me S5 , VK4 him 10 over me 9 to 10 , local him 30+ me 25+ .

<80M.jpg>


Paul Filardi
 

Also remember if use it at both ends


On May 25, 2020, at 09:24, Paul Filardi via groups.io <Raritan36@...> wrote:

When you hook up two batteries in parallel on a vehicle the weaker battery will always discharge the stronger battery to the point where it sucks both to zero the only way to do this properly is to separate them.   You can do that using a continuous duty solenoid so they are separated when the ignition is not on.  Wire the solenoid to any circuit that comes on with the ignition switch and your problem is solved you will not take out your good battery with a weaker battery


On May 25, 2020, at 05:53, Paul <pg321@...> wrote:



[Edited Message Follows]
[Reason: add]

80M mono right
2m/70cm left

Extra copper earth strap (unpainted atm) on left , there is one on the right also (painted) , they moved resonance the up by 10KHz .

73 , Paul .
ps- so far mobile 80m ssb to ZL2 4155klm / 2100 miles, VK4 450klm up north a f call using 10w and 1 local 20klm :-)
Sigs were ZL2 him S9 me S5 , VK4 him 10 over me 9 to 10 , local him 30+ me 25+ .

<80M.jpg>


Paul Filardi
 

Fuse


On May 25, 2020, at 10:43, Paul Filardi via groups.io <Raritan36@...> wrote:

Also remember if use it at both ends


On May 25, 2020, at 09:24, Paul Filardi via groups.io <Raritan36@...> wrote:

When you hook up two batteries in parallel on a vehicle the weaker battery will always discharge the stronger battery to the point where it sucks both to zero the only way to do this properly is to separate them.   You can do that using a continuous duty solenoid so they are separated when the ignition is not on.  Wire the solenoid to any circuit that comes on with the ignition switch and your problem is solved you will not take out your good battery with a weaker battery


On May 25, 2020, at 05:53, Paul <pg321@...> wrote:



[Edited Message Follows]
[Reason: add]

80M mono right
2m/70cm left

Extra copper earth strap (unpainted atm) on left , there is one on the right also (painted) , they moved resonance the up by 10KHz .

73 , Paul .
ps- so far mobile 80m ssb to ZL2 4155klm / 2100 miles, VK4 450klm up north a f call using 10w and 1 local 20klm :-)
Sigs were ZL2 him S9 me S5 , VK4 him 10 over me 9 to 10 , local him 30+ me 25+ .

<80M.jpg>