7000 but never used , getting it going


David's Gmail
 

Hi guys , I have a new ( well it was in 2005) 7000 , still in the box 

want to get it up and running

 Can someone suggest the upgrades that I might usefully do , firmware , hardware etc. 

ive lost track of what has happened to the radio 

thAsks 

Dave 



Mark Schoonover
 

Dave, 

There isn't a way to upgrade firmware on the 7K - what's in the box is what you get. I've had mine pretty much when they were first introduced and I'm pretty sure I had to mod mine to access the expanded 60m frequencies. 

Great rig good luck with it! 

73! Mark KA6WKE

Website: https://www.ka6wke.net


On Sat, Oct 24, 2020, 16:48 <davidchristophermccabe@...> wrote:

Hi guys , I have a new ( well it was in 2005) 7000 , still in the box 

want to get it up and running

 Can someone suggest the upgrades that I might usefully do , firmware , hardware etc. 

ive lost track of what has happened to the radio 

thAsks 

Dave 



wb0m
 

Hi Dave,

Sorry no firmware or software updates. It is now as it was when sold. They have been many who have update some hardware such as new fuses, cords, etc.

That being said, I have a “stock” 7K that I’ve used mobile, camping, at home and now, mostly for Radio Scouting activities about eight-time-a-year.. It works just as well as when it was new.

Get it on the air and have fun.

73,
Jeff/wb0m 

On Oct 24, 2020, at 12:22, davidchristophermccabe@... wrote:

Hi guys , I have a new ( well it was in 2005) 7000 , still in the box 

want to get it up and running

 Can someone suggest the upgrades that I might usefully do , firmware , hardware etc. 

ive lost track of what has happened to the radio 

thAsks 

Dave 




Helmut Wabnig
 

On Sat, 24 Oct 2020 10:22:57 -0700, you wrote:

Hi guys , I have a new ( well it was in 2005) 7000 , still in the box

want to get it up and running

Can someone suggest the upgrades that I might usefully do , firmware , hardware etc.

ive lost track of what has happened to the radio

thAsks

Dave
All the new radios have a common problem:
The power cord.
I remove both fuses when working with a power supply
and have only 1 fuse when working from battery.
Run for 3 minutes full power on a dummy load and then check
where the power cable gets warm, if it does, that's the losses.
I add a 450 Ohm potentiometer from 12 to the red of the fan
having it run permanently even on standby.
This cools the unit good enough and it does not run hot.
FT8 approved full power 100 Watt 50% duty cycle.


OE8UWW


David's Gmail
 

Thanks guys

I’m setting it up on a boat ( which was why I bought it originally ). But for various reasons never installed it till now

Dave


EI-2GMB

"Sent from my iPhone (with a touch screen and mind of its own, so sorry for the typos!)"

On 25 Oct 2020, at 07:57, Helmut Wabnig <hwabnig@aon.at> wrote:

On Sat, 24 Oct 2020 10:22:57 -0700, you wrote:

Hi guys , I have a new ( well it was in 2005) 7000 , still in the box

want to get it up and running

Can someone suggest the upgrades that I might usefully do , firmware , hardware etc.

ive lost track of what has happened to the radio

thAsks

Dave
All the new radios have a common problem:
The power cord.
I remove both fuses when working with a power supply
and have only 1 fuse when working from battery.
Run for 3 minutes full power on a dummy load and then check
where the power cable gets warm, if it does, that's the losses.
I add a 450 Ohm potentiometer from 12 to the red of the fan
having it run permanently even on standby.
This cools the unit good enough and it does not run hot.
FT8 approved full power 100 Watt 50% duty cycle.


OE8UWW


David's Gmail
 

I should add it will in a warm climate mounted in the boats panel , so the advice re keeping it cool is well understood. I’m  may have to add additional cooling as cabin ambients can climb towards 40 degree C ! 


Pedro S - EA3FNM
 

Hi Dave,
The improvments you can do are:
* Permanent fan running. to avoid increase of temperature
* Improvement at the microphone for better audio
* Fuse contact problem
* The most important, the first units had problems with the driver unit. Icom has one Service Note about how to solve this problem
* Open rx/tx band

About all their you can find information and also the SN at internet. Mods.dk

http://n6ha.blogspot.com/2011/11/ic-7000-driver-board-replacement-how-to.html


Dallas N4DDM
 

Dave,
I don't remember you saying what kind of boat or what your power (battery capacity) is...

If you are using this in a sailboat and don't run the engine or generator while you operate the radio you have to watch for things that drain your battery, like a fan that stays on all the time...

Also, when the voltage on the battery drops down to 10 volts or so or the losses due to long battery leads, poor fuse holders, etc add up the radio craps out...  Consider getting a Battery Voltage Booster that takes 8-12VDC and boost it to 13.8VDC...

Also, this radio uses what is called "soft on" meaning a small part of the radio is on draining your battery all the time...  Consider a mechanical ON/OFF switch...

Make sure you have an ON/OFF switch to the Battery Voltage Booster so it doesn't drain your battery...




73 Dallas, KD4HNX
Whatever you do, don’t fall victim to “paralysis by
analysis.” Go ahead and buy/build one and start 
tinkering with it. This is a learn by doing hobby.

No politician or scholar assured your freedoms.
A Soldier, Sailor, Marine, or Airman did!


On Sunday, October 25, 2020, 04:57:51 AM EDT, Pedro S - EA3FNM <pedro.segurar@...> wrote:


Hi Dave,
The improvments you can do are:
* Permanent fan running. to avoid increase of temperature
* Improvement at the microphone for better audio
* Fuse contact problem
* The most important, the first units had problems with the driver unit. Icom has one Service Note about how to solve this problem
* Open rx/tx band

About all their you can find information and also the SN at internet. Mods.dk

http://n6ha.blogspot.com/2011/11/ic-7000-driver-board-replacement-how-to.html


David's Gmail
 

That’s for that , I’m an electronics engineer so the electrical side is good to go 

"(with a touch screen and mind of its own, so sorry for the typos!)"

On 25 Oct 2020, at 13:28, Dallas KD4HNX via groups.io <mylastname@...> wrote:


Dave,
I don't remember you saying what kind of boat or what your power (battery capacity) is...

If you are using this in a sailboat and don't run the engine or generator while you operate the radio you have to watch for things that drain your battery, like a fan that stays on all the time...

Also, when the voltage on the battery drops down to 10 volts or so or the losses due to long battery leads, poor fuse holders, etc add up the radio craps out...  Consider getting a Battery Voltage Booster that takes 8-12VDC and boost it to 13.8VDC...

Also, this radio uses what is called "soft on" meaning a small part of the radio is on draining your battery all the time...  Consider a mechanical ON/OFF switch...

Make sure you have an ON/OFF switch to the Battery Voltage Booster so it doesn't drain your battery...




73 Dallas, KD4HNX
Whatever you do, don’t fall victim to “paralysis by
analysis.” Go ahead and buy/build one and start 
tinkering with it. This is a learn by doing hobby.

No politician or scholar assured your freedoms.
A Soldier, Sailor, Marine, or Airman did!


On Sunday, October 25, 2020, 04:57:51 AM EDT, Pedro S - EA3FNM <pedro.segurar@...> wrote:


Hi Dave,
The improvments you can do are:
* Permanent fan running. to avoid increase of temperature
* Improvement at the microphone for better audio
* Fuse contact problem
* The most important, the first units had problems with the driver unit. Icom has one Service Note about how to solve this problem
* Open rx/tx band

About all their you can find information and also the SN at internet. Mods.dk

http://n6ha.blogspot.com/2011/11/ic-7000-driver-board-replacement-how-to.html


Romain Kieffer
 

Helmut, I am wondering about the 100W FT8 you mentioned, I would like to try that since my SDR1000 is only rated for 30W in that mode. Is there any reference in the manual showing permissible power output?

Take care
rom. OE1RKS

On Oct 25, 2020, at 6:57 AM, Helmut Wabnig <hwabnig@aon.at> wrote:

On Sat, 24 Oct 2020 10:22:57 -0700, you wrote:

Hi guys , I have a new ( well it was in 2005) 7000 , still in the box

want to get it up and running

Can someone suggest the upgrades that I might usefully do , firmware , hardware etc.

ive lost track of what has happened to the radio

thAsks

Dave
All the new radios have a common problem:
The power cord.
I remove both fuses when working with a power supply
and have only 1 fuse when working from battery.
Run for 3 minutes full power on a dummy load and then check
where the power cable gets warm, if it does, that's the losses.
I add a 450 Ohm potentiometer from 12 to the red of the fan
having it run permanently even on standby.
This cools the unit good enough and it does not run hot.
FT8 approved full power 100 Watt 50% duty cycle.


OE8UWW







 

I believe that 100 watts of ft8 will leave you with a hot radio. Personally I feel that limiting to 30 - 40 watts is safer for the radio. They tend to run a little warm anyway. 
At least the transmit time is only 15 seconds, but relentless when the band is hot.
I added a small set of fans on the rear heat sink to keep the little red heat line from going too far over the the right


Ken Goddard
 

Using 100 watts on FT8 is a no no and a bad way to win friends.
30 watts is good enough. :)
73
Ken W5CGP

On 10/25/2020 9:22 AM, Romain Kieffer wrote:
Helmut, I am wondering about the 100W FT8 you mentioned, I would like to try that since my SDR1000 is only rated for 30W in that mode.  Is there any reference in the manual showing permissible power output?

Take care
 rom. OE1RKS

On Oct 25, 2020, at 6:57 AM, Helmut Wabnig <hwabnig@...> wrote:

On Sat, 24 Oct 2020 10:22:57 -0700, you wrote:

Hi guys , I have a new ( well it was in 2005) 7000 , still in the box

want to get it up and running

Can someone suggest the upgrades that I might usefully do , firmware , hardware etc.

ive lost track of what has happened to the radio

thAsks

Dave

All the new radios have a common problem:
The power cord.
I remove both fuses when working with a power supply
and have only 1 fuse when working from battery.
Run for 3 minutes full power on a dummy load and then check
where the power cable gets warm, if it does, that's the losses.
I add a 450 Ohm potentiometer from 12 to the red of the fan
having it run permanently even on standby.
This cools the unit good enough and it does not run hot.
FT8 approved full power 100 Watt 50% duty cycle.


OE8UWW













Helmut Wabnig
 

On Sun, 25 Oct 2020 15:22:42 +0100, you wrote:

Helmut, I am wondering about the 100W FT8 you mentioned, I would like to try that since my SDR1000 is only rated for 30W in that mode. Is there any reference in the manual showing permissible power output?

Take care
rom. OE1RKS
Manual? Who reads a manual :-)

Shortwave FT8:
With the fan mod it is perfect. During receive the fan continues
cooling the heat exchanger which is sufficient for the next
full power cycle. Never gets too hot.
I have done it, no need for a manual.

Small transceivers tend to run hot on standby /receive and actually
they are cooler during transmit when the fan comes on.
Had the same with my YAESU FT100.

Put a 450 Ohm poti inside the rear cooler slots,
at the right rear edge
the longitudinal pot type, not a round one.
Then you can adjust it from outside.
Fix it with glue.

On 2 m FM do not run full power,
limit FM and FT8 to 30 Watts. The 50 Watts are only for SSB peak.

I did modifications around the PIN diodes, to run full 50 Watt on
2meter, but that is too complicated to describe. Have to add thermal
improvements to the printed board, e.g. a thick layer of solder,
but not too much. Requires SMD skills and watchmaker patience.

OE8UWW


Helmut Wabnig
 

On Sun, 25 Oct 2020 09:36:23 -0500, you wrote:

*Using 100 watts on FT8 is a no no and a bad way to win friends.
30 watts is good enough. :)
73
Ken W5CGP
Opinions don't count, you know.

OE8UWW


Robert Seastream
 

Dave:

I lived aboard a 36' sailing catamaran for about 5 years, traveling around New England, the Carribean, and parts in between.  I had a 7K with dual inverted vees for 20 & 40, an LDG tuner, and a 2/440 whip at (60') masttop.  I had an 800 AH house battery bank.  A voltage booster such as the one by N8XKJ, at the radio, is a MUST.  The 7K is very fussy about voltage and would die on key down with anything less than 12.5 at the radio, and I never saw anywhere near full output with less than 13.8 VDC.  Yes, toss those stock fuses and get the ATC style. 

73, Bob, WB2DWD

On Sun, Oct 25, 2020 at 7:28 AM Dallas KD4HNX via groups.io <mylastname=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Dave,
I don't remember you saying what kind of boat or what your power (battery capacity) is...

If you are using this in a sailboat and don't run the engine or generator while you operate the radio you have to watch for things that drain your battery, like a fan that stays on all the time...

Also, when the voltage on the battery drops down to 10 volts or so or the losses due to long battery leads, poor fuse holders, etc add up the radio craps out...  Consider getting a Battery Voltage Booster that takes 8-12VDC and boost it to 13.8VDC...

Also, this radio uses what is called "soft on" meaning a small part of the radio is on draining your battery all the time...  Consider a mechanical ON/OFF switch...

Make sure you have an ON/OFF switch to the Battery Voltage Booster so it doesn't drain your battery...




73 Dallas, KD4HNX
Whatever you do, don’t fall victim to “paralysis by
analysis.” Go ahead and buy/build one and start 
tinkering with it. This is a learn by doing hobby.

No politician or scholar assured your freedoms.
A Soldier, Sailor, Marine, or Airman did!


On Sunday, October 25, 2020, 04:57:51 AM EDT, Pedro S - EA3FNM <pedro.segurar@...> wrote:


Hi Dave,
The improvments you can do are:
* Permanent fan running. to avoid increase of temperature
* Improvement at the microphone for better audio
* Fuse contact problem
* The most important, the first units had problems with the driver unit. Icom has one Service Note about how to solve this problem
* Open rx/tx band

About all their you can find information and also the SN at internet. Mods.dk

http://n6ha.blogspot.com/2011/11/ic-7000-driver-board-replacement-how-to.html


g4abx
 

Evening Dave
To give you my perspective on the 7k:
The biggest problem is it gets HOT! 
It gets hot on the bench with nothing around it -- so don't even think about enclosing the rig in a console or packing other equipment around it. Give it lots of air.
In order to reduce the tendency to 'fry eggs' on the top:
1) You need to do the mod that runs the internal fan on RX otherwise you will burn your fingers on the case! The simplest mod is detailed in 'mods.dk' and adds a single resistor to tap some volts to the fan on RX, so go take a look.
2) The weakest part of the TX section appears to be the driver. Many IC7K's left the factory with no thermal paste between the driver device and its heat sink! -- but it's a horrible job to get at it 'just to check'
One mod you can do -- which doesn't seem to hurt overall linearity, is to reduce the driver standing current from 1A to -- say 650mA. This can be done from the Service menu -- so go and find yourself a copy of the Service handbook to tell you all about that. Several folks have detailed how to achieve this -- so go and Google that mod.
3) The TX audio quality is generally 'lacking.' Again there are several mods you can do to the Mike itself without having to take the lid of the rig. again Google will tell you where and what.
4) For digital modes, stick to 30 watts MAX. You can work the world on 30 watts FT8. I know. I do!
5) Given that this rig is now a bit 'old' I would suggest you limit power output on the HF bands to 50 watts anyway. Just preset the power output to 50% and you are good to go. No one is going to tell the difference between 50 watts and 100 watts -- but your 7K will love you for doing that. (This is how I have my rig set up.)
6) If you are going to put it in a console or close pack it on your bench with other stuff, then add an external fan to the top -- on top of the existing fan grill. A cheap $2 silent computer fan with a homemade foam ring to stop the rattle will do the job.

It's a great little rig if you treat it with respect.
Some folks have done the exact opposite and tweaked the power output 'UP TO 11' from the Service menu -- and wonder why it packs up after 3 months?! They must have more money that I do!

Have fun
73
Bruce G4ABX


David's Gmail
 

Thanks for that , I have 300AH of battery   So we will see how we go 

"(with a touch screen and mind of its own, so sorry for the typos!)"

On 25 Oct 2020, at 17:57, g4abx <brucemacb@...> wrote:

Evening Dave
To give you my perspective on the 7k:
The biggest problem is it gets HOT! 
It gets hot on the bench with nothing around it -- so don't even think about enclosing the rig in a console or packing other equipment around it. Give it lots of air.
In order to reduce the tendency to 'fry eggs' on the top:
1) You need to do the mod that runs the internal fan on RX otherwise you will burn your fingers on the case! The simplest mod is detailed in 'mods.dk' and adds a single resistor to tap some volts to the fan on RX, so go take a look.
2) The weakest part of the TX section appears to be the driver. Many IC7K's left the factory with no thermal paste between the driver device and its heat sink! -- but it's a horrible job to get at it 'just to check'
One mod you can do -- which doesn't seem to hurt overall linearity, is to reduce the driver standing current from 1A to -- say 650mA. This can be done from the Service menu -- so go and find yourself a copy of the Service handbook to tell you all about that. Several folks have detailed how to achieve this -- so go and Google that mod.
3) The TX audio quality is generally 'lacking.' Again there are several mods you can do to the Mike itself without having to take the lid of the rig. again Google will tell you where and what.
4) For digital modes, stick to 30 watts MAX. You can work the world on 30 watts FT8. I know. I do!
5) Given that this rig is now a bit 'old' I would suggest you limit power output on the HF bands to 50 watts anyway. Just preset the power output to 50% and you are good to go. No one is going to tell the difference between 50 watts and 100 watts -- but your 7K will love you for doing that. (This is how I have my rig set up.)
6) If you are going to put it in a console or close pack it on your bench with other stuff, then add an external fan to the top -- on top of the existing fan grill. A cheap $2 silent computer fan with a homemade foam ring to stop the rattle will do the job.

It's a great little rig if you treat it with respect.
Some folks have done the exact opposite and tweaked the power output 'UP TO 11' from the Service menu -- and wonder why it packs up after 3 months?! They must have more money that I do!

Have fun
73
Bruce G4ABX


WA8Y Steven
 

I use a MFJ battery booster, the fuse holders seem to be the biggest issue.
Mine is about your vintage and I've used it a lot without any other problems.


David's Gmail
 

What precisely has to happen with the fuses. It’s just removing /bypassing them?

My feed to the radio is electronically controlled anyway as a have a custom system generating feeds that can set to “ fuse at whatever current I choose )

Dave

"Sent from my iPhone (with a touch screen and mind of its own, so sorry for the typos!)"


David's Gmail
 

I’ve looked at the battery booster , it’s pricy enough !, that was $200 i wasn’t planning on : glup , I’ll keep an eye out for a second have unit