Temperature question

Juliean Galak

Hello all!

I'm a new ham and just bought an IC-7000 off ebay for use in the car. I'm wondering - how hot does the rig get, and how much airflow does it need? Is it safe to install in a small, fully enclosed compartment, or does it need good airflow? I anticipate using it primarily for HF-SSB and VHF-FM.


Rodney Baker

It depends on your duty cycle and whether or not you're running it at full power, but I would not be installing it in a small sealed compartment without reasonable airflow. I have mine remotely installed in the boot - I guess that's the trunk in the USA (on the back of the fold-down rear seat) and I've had no problems, even with the boot full of luggage (but I do make sure the heat-sink and fan are kept clear).


It is a great mobile radio - you'll get lots of enjoyment from it!





Rodney Baker VK5ZTV



Alan M. Maslin

Hi...best not to enclose the rig. It does need airflow. In my

car I have the control head near me mounted on the

dash and the radio itself under the driver's seat. So, it's

not enclosed and gets A/C in the hot weather and actually

gets just a little heat if the wx gets cool (I live in Florida

so the A/C is most important as the car can get really

hot before the A/C kicks in).  If you use the rig and

just listen it won't get very warm at all but once you start

transmitting it will get quite warm. Just make sure it gets

some air.


Al, N3EA

Nigel Lemaire

I would definitely NOT put this radio in a small unventilated compartment.  It runs fairly warm (to the touch) and restricting air movement would probably be fatal to the radio.
Consider mounting under a seat and use a remote head.

Dan Nelson

"Different installations have different needs.... It's 17' from the battery to where the radios are in my SUV.  I often have 3 radios, a Pactor modem for Winlink and a roof-mounted APRS tracker installed, plus a laptop.  and I need to operate with the engine off. 
Every millivolt counts! "

If every millivolt counts then instead of running directly off batteries as most amateurs do maybe you should consider a more professional approach by employing a DC to DC switching regulating power supply which will provide a stable 13.8 volts to the load regardless of source battery voltage. 

There are quite a few professional  quality products available and can be found in every price rangeing from expensive ruggedized units designed to sail the world withstanding the harsh marine environment. There are less expensive commercial units designed for public safety applications and then there is the ultra low end products designed for ham radio use.

I've evaluated quite a few of these products and while I'm partial to the marine grade products because of their superior design, durability and build quality I also understand that very few hams can afford that level of quality or for that matter even understand why they need it in the first place.  Anyhow DX engineering carries some of the better units marketed for the ham radio and amature comunications market. There was another unit targeting the ham radio market which I evaluated a few years back that looked very promising unfortunately I can't remember the name off the top of my head. If you're interested I'll dig around my files and see if I can find the name.