Date   

Re: 7000 but never used , getting it going

David's Gmail
 

I need a buck boost “ booster “ because at times the solar array will have the batteries at 14.4 or even a bit more 

so a simple boost only converter is going to run out of operating headroom imho 

dave 


Re: High SWR on all HF Bands

William Kerker
 

I'm wondering if you need a common mode choke on the coax. Sounds like RF on the coax. 

On Tue, Oct 27, 2020 at 8:13 PM Max via groups.io <kg4pid=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello everyone. I have an Icom 7000 that now shows a high SWR (2:1 - 3:1) depending on band into a dummy load (2 different ones). Here's the catch, I can change the SWR by using different lengths of coax between the radio and my external power/SWR meter. My external meter shows my dummy loads to be a good match but the radio doesn't agree. For a few months now I've had to use a 25Ft RG-58 jumper just to keep the SWR around 2:1 on the radio.

Is this just some failed part in the SWR detection circuitry or do I have bigger problems. I know its just guessing but what are the chances of it being an easy repair and are the parts available?

I'd hate to send it in just to be told the parts are unobtainium.

Max KG4PID



--
Bill,  KMØF

Radio Amateurs must be tough, it's a 'Contact Sport'


Re: 7000 but never used , getting it going

Brent Hawks
 

Looks like the N8XJK booster is making a comeback:
http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=battery-boost&navcode=/fpBoost

Bought a used 20amp unit nearly a decade ago, then purchased and modified with the thermal switch kit from TG Electronics, giving it a 40amp capacity.
Nothing to compare it to, and only relatively light use, but it's done me no wrong thus far.

-Brent, KG6KPD
     ~~~ ~~~ ~ ~ ~   ~ ~ ~ ~~~  ~~~


On Tue, Oct 27, 2020 at 7:12 PM Mark Schoonover via groups.io <mark=ka6wke.net@groups.io> wrote:
This booster looks interesting but it can only use a fixed input voltage. As the battery is being drained the terminal voltage will decrease and so will the output of the booster. I guess you could manually compensate for this drop but the MFJ unit can automatically compensate. Of course the latter is ten times the cost! 

On Tue, Oct 27, 2020, 17:07 Mike Binder <na6mb.info@...> wrote:
I totally agree with this !

I ran my IC-7000 mobile last summer on a 4400+ mile road trip.

It was installed in a 2019 Toyota Highlander that stops the engine when you are stopped at a light etc. (to save gas) and restarts when you let off the brake.
Without my battery booster the IC-7000 "rebooted" every time. Works just fine with the booster in line.

My booster was less than $30 on eBay.   
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1500W-30A-DC-Converter-Boost-Power-Supply-Module-10-60V-12v-Step-up-12-90V/201621692626?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

The IC-7000 and on my old IC-706 are both quite voltage sensitive.
It is a good idea to switch off the booster if not used for a while, but it only draws 25-35 ma and the radio draws 10x that for receive.
That said, a friend rigged up a relay to kick in a booster on Tx and off (after a short delay)  on Rx.

Mike
NA6MB



On 10/25/2020 4:27 AM, Dallas KD4HNX via groups.io wrote:
Dave,
I don't remember you saying what kind of boat or what your power (battery capacity) is...

If you are using this in a sailboat and don't run the engine or generator while you operate the radio you have to watch for things that drain your battery, like a fan that stays on all the time...

Also, when the voltage on the battery drops down to 10 volts or so or the losses due to long battery leads, poor fuse holders, etc add up the radio craps out...  Consider getting a Battery Voltage Booster that takes 8-12VDC and boost it to 13.8VDC...

Also, this radio uses what is called "soft on" meaning a small part of the radio is on draining your battery all the time...  Consider a mechanical ON/OFF switch...

Make sure you have an ON/OFF switch to the Battery Voltage Booster so it doesn't drain your battery...




73 Dallas, KD4HNX
Whatever you do, don’t fall victim to “paralysis by
analysis.” Go ahead and buy/build one and start 
tinkering with it. This is a learn by doing hobby.

No politician or scholar assured your freedoms.
A Soldier, Sailor, Marine, or Airman did!


On Sunday, October 25, 2020, 04:57:51 AM EDT, Pedro S - EA3FNM <pedro.segurar@...> wrote:


Hi Dave,
The improvments you can do are:
* Permanent fan running. to avoid increase of temperature
* Improvement at the microphone for better audio
* Fuse contact problem
* The most important, the first units had problems with the driver unit. Icom has one Service Note about how to solve this problem
* Open rx/tx band

About all their you can find information and also the SN at internet. Mods.dk

http://n6ha.blogspot.com/2011/11/ic-7000-driver-board-replacement-how-to.html


Re: 7000 but never used , getting it going

Mark Schoonover
 

This booster looks interesting but it can only use a fixed input voltage. As the battery is being drained the terminal voltage will decrease and so will the output of the booster. I guess you could manually compensate for this drop but the MFJ unit can automatically compensate. Of course the latter is ten times the cost! 


On Tue, Oct 27, 2020, 17:07 Mike Binder <na6mb.info@...> wrote:
I totally agree with this !

I ran my IC-7000 mobile last summer on a 4400+ mile road trip.

It was installed in a 2019 Toyota Highlander that stops the engine when you are stopped at a light etc. (to save gas) and restarts when you let off the brake.
Without my battery booster the IC-7000 "rebooted" every time. Works just fine with the booster in line.

My booster was less than $30 on eBay.   
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1500W-30A-DC-Converter-Boost-Power-Supply-Module-10-60V-12v-Step-up-12-90V/201621692626?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

The IC-7000 and on my old IC-706 are both quite voltage sensitive.
It is a good idea to switch off the booster if not used for a while, but it only draws 25-35 ma and the radio draws 10x that for receive.
That said, a friend rigged up a relay to kick in a booster on Tx and off (after a short delay)  on Rx.

Mike
NA6MB



On 10/25/2020 4:27 AM, Dallas KD4HNX via groups.io wrote:
Dave,
I don't remember you saying what kind of boat or what your power (battery capacity) is...

If you are using this in a sailboat and don't run the engine or generator while you operate the radio you have to watch for things that drain your battery, like a fan that stays on all the time...

Also, when the voltage on the battery drops down to 10 volts or so or the losses due to long battery leads, poor fuse holders, etc add up the radio craps out...  Consider getting a Battery Voltage Booster that takes 8-12VDC and boost it to 13.8VDC...

Also, this radio uses what is called "soft on" meaning a small part of the radio is on draining your battery all the time...  Consider a mechanical ON/OFF switch...

Make sure you have an ON/OFF switch to the Battery Voltage Booster so it doesn't drain your battery...




73 Dallas, KD4HNX
Whatever you do, don’t fall victim to “paralysis by
analysis.” Go ahead and buy/build one and start 
tinkering with it. This is a learn by doing hobby.

No politician or scholar assured your freedoms.
A Soldier, Sailor, Marine, or Airman did!


On Sunday, October 25, 2020, 04:57:51 AM EDT, Pedro S - EA3FNM <pedro.segurar@...> wrote:


Hi Dave,
The improvments you can do are:
* Permanent fan running. to avoid increase of temperature
* Improvement at the microphone for better audio
* Fuse contact problem
* The most important, the first units had problems with the driver unit. Icom has one Service Note about how to solve this problem
* Open rx/tx band

About all their you can find information and also the SN at internet. Mods.dk

http://n6ha.blogspot.com/2011/11/ic-7000-driver-board-replacement-how-to.html


High SWR on all HF Bands

Max
 

Hello everyone. I have an Icom 7000 that now shows a high SWR (2:1 - 3:1) depending on band into a dummy load (2 different ones). Here's the catch, I can change the SWR by using different lengths of coax between the radio and my external power/SWR meter. My external meter shows my dummy loads to be a good match but the radio doesn't agree. For a few months now I've had to use a 25Ft RG-58 jumper just to keep the SWR around 2:1 on the radio.

Is this just some failed part in the SWR detection circuitry or do I have bigger problems. I know its just guessing but what are the chances of it being an easy repair and are the parts available?

I'd hate to send it in just to be told the parts are unobtainium.

Max KG4PID


Re: 7000 but never used , getting it going

WA8Y Steven
 

Separated control head is the way to go mobile.   The radio runs cooler.
I place mine in the center console,  heat sink up, with mic plugged in the back of the radio instead of at the control head.
Steven WA8Y


Re: 7000 but never used , getting it going

wb0m
 

Hello All:

I have to agree with MIke on the voltage booster: I tried using my 7K off batteries (for the first time) last weekend furing JOTA and just could not make it work.
I hooked up the PS (Samlex 1223) to the A/C mains and had no problem. I knew the 7K was voltage sensitive, but thought I’d give it a try anyway.

BTW: Still love my 7K. Perfect radio for working with Scouts USA. Easy to switch bands (using an AH-4) and also switching to VHF/UHF.
Are there some idiosyncrasies? Yes. But, much like my wife having to put up with mine… I just work around them (hi).

GL, Enjoy, Stay Safe & 73,

Jeff/wb0m


Re: 7000 but never used , getting it going

Mike Binder - NA6MB
 

Separation is a must for mobile !
I have the radio under the seat and the remote head on a shelf on the dash.

NA6MB
Mike


On 10/26/2020 8:56 AM, David's Gmail wrote:
I wasn’t aware of the separation cable. That would make my installation simpler if I can seperate the control head from the main body. 


Re: 7000 but never used , getting it going

Mike Binder - NA6MB
 

On 10/25/2020 6:31 PM, David's Gmail wrote:
I notice there are some 28A Chinese dc dc buck boost converters. ( usual caveats ). Might be one or two to test 


Re: 7000 but never used , getting it going

Mike Binder - NA6MB
 

I totally agree with this !

I ran my IC-7000 mobile last summer on a 4400+ mile road trip.

It was installed in a 2019 Toyota Highlander that stops the engine when you are stopped at a light etc. (to save gas) and restarts when you let off the brake.
Without my battery booster the IC-7000 "rebooted" every time. Works just fine with the booster in line.

My booster was less than $30 on eBay.   
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1500W-30A-DC-Converter-Boost-Power-Supply-Module-10-60V-12v-Step-up-12-90V/201621692626?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

The IC-7000 and on my old IC-706 are both quite voltage sensitive.
It is a good idea to switch off the booster if not used for a while, but it only draws 25-35 ma and the radio draws 10x that for receive.
That said, a friend rigged up a relay to kick in a booster on Tx and off (after a short delay)  on Rx.

Mike
NA6MB



On 10/25/2020 4:27 AM, Dallas KD4HNX via groups.io wrote:
Dave,
I don't remember you saying what kind of boat or what your power (battery capacity) is...

If you are using this in a sailboat and don't run the engine or generator while you operate the radio you have to watch for things that drain your battery, like a fan that stays on all the time...

Also, when the voltage on the battery drops down to 10 volts or so or the losses due to long battery leads, poor fuse holders, etc add up the radio craps out...  Consider getting a Battery Voltage Booster that takes 8-12VDC and boost it to 13.8VDC...

Also, this radio uses what is called "soft on" meaning a small part of the radio is on draining your battery all the time...  Consider a mechanical ON/OFF switch...

Make sure you have an ON/OFF switch to the Battery Voltage Booster so it doesn't drain your battery...




73 Dallas, KD4HNX
Whatever you do, don’t fall victim to “paralysis by
analysis.” Go ahead and buy/build one and start 
tinkering with it. This is a learn by doing hobby.

No politician or scholar assured your freedoms.
A Soldier, Sailor, Marine, or Airman did!


On Sunday, October 25, 2020, 04:57:51 AM EDT, Pedro S - EA3FNM <pedro.segurar@...> wrote:


Hi Dave,
The improvments you can do are:
* Permanent fan running. to avoid increase of temperature
* Improvement at the microphone for better audio
* Fuse contact problem
* The most important, the first units had problems with the driver unit. Icom has one Service Note about how to solve this problem
* Open rx/tx band

About all their you can find information and also the SN at internet. Mods.dk

http://n6ha.blogspot.com/2011/11/ic-7000-driver-board-replacement-how-to.html


Re: 7000 but never used , getting it going

David's Gmail
 

I wasn’t aware of the separation cable. That would make my installation simpler if I can seperate the control head from the main body. 


Re: 7000 but never used , getting it going

Mark Schoonover
 

One of the other QTCs mentioned the mic mod. I DIY mine, here's the link:


On Sat, Oct 24, 2020, 17:59 Mark Schoonover <mark@...> wrote:
Dave, 

There isn't a way to upgrade firmware on the 7K - what's in the box is what you get. I've had mine pretty much when they were first introduced and I'm pretty sure I had to mod mine to access the expanded 60m frequencies. 

Great rig good luck with it! 

73! Mark KA6WKE

Website: https://www.ka6wke.net

On Sat, Oct 24, 2020, 16:48 <davidchristophermccabe@...> wrote:

Hi guys , I have a new ( well it was in 2005) 7000 , still in the box 

want to get it up and running

 Can someone suggest the upgrades that I might usefully do , firmware , hardware etc. 

ive lost track of what has happened to the radio 

thAsks 

Dave 



Re: 7000 but never used , getting it going

David's Gmail
 

I notice there are some 28A Chinese dc dc buck boost converters. ( usual caveats ). Might be one or two to test 


Re: 7000 but never used , getting it going

David's Gmail
 
Edited

I’ve been looking at battery boosters Victron Energie do a simple 25A continuous dc dc converter that can be set to upto 15V , half the price of MFJ  and Victron stuff is usually very good 

simple no smarts , has a remote off , which is useful lower standby at 15mA. 

 

https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/orion-dc-dc-converters-12v-24v-48v-110v


winner winner chicken dinner 

edit : Damm , these are just buck converters so no use 


Re: 7000 but never used , getting it going

David's Gmail
 

Bruce. Thanks for the pointers I’ll follow up those mods over the winter 

I’ll add two computer fans behind the mounting panel. This is the boats instrument panel but there good space behind so I can direct extra airflow 

as for HF power , I fully agree.  My solar PC keeping the batteries going will agree with you as will my neighbours in the marina !! 


im only interested in HF so I won’t be working up the higher frequency  antenna ( well I might , the boat already looks like a spy ship anyways !! ) 


Re: 7000 but never used , getting it going

David's Gmail
 

I’ve looked at the battery booster , it’s pricy enough !, that was $200 i wasn’t planning on : glup , I’ll keep an eye out for a second have unit 


Re: 7000 but never used , getting it going

David's Gmail
 

What precisely has to happen with the fuses. It’s just removing /bypassing them?

My feed to the radio is electronically controlled anyway as a have a custom system generating feeds that can set to “ fuse at whatever current I choose )

Dave

"Sent from my iPhone (with a touch screen and mind of its own, so sorry for the typos!)"


Re: 7000 but never used , getting it going

WA8Y Steven
 

I use a MFJ battery booster, the fuse holders seem to be the biggest issue.
Mine is about your vintage and I've used it a lot without any other problems.


Re: 7000 but never used , getting it going

David's Gmail
 

Thanks for that , I have 300AH of battery   So we will see how we go 

"(with a touch screen and mind of its own, so sorry for the typos!)"

On 25 Oct 2020, at 17:57, g4abx <brucemacb@...> wrote:

Evening Dave
To give you my perspective on the 7k:
The biggest problem is it gets HOT! 
It gets hot on the bench with nothing around it -- so don't even think about enclosing the rig in a console or packing other equipment around it. Give it lots of air.
In order to reduce the tendency to 'fry eggs' on the top:
1) You need to do the mod that runs the internal fan on RX otherwise you will burn your fingers on the case! The simplest mod is detailed in 'mods.dk' and adds a single resistor to tap some volts to the fan on RX, so go take a look.
2) The weakest part of the TX section appears to be the driver. Many IC7K's left the factory with no thermal paste between the driver device and its heat sink! -- but it's a horrible job to get at it 'just to check'
One mod you can do -- which doesn't seem to hurt overall linearity, is to reduce the driver standing current from 1A to -- say 650mA. This can be done from the Service menu -- so go and find yourself a copy of the Service handbook to tell you all about that. Several folks have detailed how to achieve this -- so go and Google that mod.
3) The TX audio quality is generally 'lacking.' Again there are several mods you can do to the Mike itself without having to take the lid of the rig. again Google will tell you where and what.
4) For digital modes, stick to 30 watts MAX. You can work the world on 30 watts FT8. I know. I do!
5) Given that this rig is now a bit 'old' I would suggest you limit power output on the HF bands to 50 watts anyway. Just preset the power output to 50% and you are good to go. No one is going to tell the difference between 50 watts and 100 watts -- but your 7K will love you for doing that. (This is how I have my rig set up.)
6) If you are going to put it in a console or close pack it on your bench with other stuff, then add an external fan to the top -- on top of the existing fan grill. A cheap $2 silent computer fan with a homemade foam ring to stop the rattle will do the job.

It's a great little rig if you treat it with respect.
Some folks have done the exact opposite and tweaked the power output 'UP TO 11' from the Service menu -- and wonder why it packs up after 3 months?! They must have more money that I do!

Have fun
73
Bruce G4ABX


Re: 7000 but never used , getting it going

g4abx
 

Evening Dave
To give you my perspective on the 7k:
The biggest problem is it gets HOT! 
It gets hot on the bench with nothing around it -- so don't even think about enclosing the rig in a console or packing other equipment around it. Give it lots of air.
In order to reduce the tendency to 'fry eggs' on the top:
1) You need to do the mod that runs the internal fan on RX otherwise you will burn your fingers on the case! The simplest mod is detailed in 'mods.dk' and adds a single resistor to tap some volts to the fan on RX, so go take a look.
2) The weakest part of the TX section appears to be the driver. Many IC7K's left the factory with no thermal paste between the driver device and its heat sink! -- but it's a horrible job to get at it 'just to check'
One mod you can do -- which doesn't seem to hurt overall linearity, is to reduce the driver standing current from 1A to -- say 650mA. This can be done from the Service menu -- so go and find yourself a copy of the Service handbook to tell you all about that. Several folks have detailed how to achieve this -- so go and Google that mod.
3) The TX audio quality is generally 'lacking.' Again there are several mods you can do to the Mike itself without having to take the lid of the rig. again Google will tell you where and what.
4) For digital modes, stick to 30 watts MAX. You can work the world on 30 watts FT8. I know. I do!
5) Given that this rig is now a bit 'old' I would suggest you limit power output on the HF bands to 50 watts anyway. Just preset the power output to 50% and you are good to go. No one is going to tell the difference between 50 watts and 100 watts -- but your 7K will love you for doing that. (This is how I have my rig set up.)
6) If you are going to put it in a console or close pack it on your bench with other stuff, then add an external fan to the top -- on top of the existing fan grill. A cheap $2 silent computer fan with a homemade foam ring to stop the rattle will do the job.

It's a great little rig if you treat it with respect.
Some folks have done the exact opposite and tweaked the power output 'UP TO 11' from the Service menu -- and wonder why it packs up after 3 months?! They must have more money that I do!

Have fun
73
Bruce G4ABX

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