Date   

Re: Low Input Voltage in Mobile

Mark Brueggemann
 

From: Bob Rodgers <kc4tvo@oakcreekcorp.com>


I agree on diodes failing.
What is the failure mode? This is the first I've heard of it. It certainly isn't due to the tepid draw of a mobile radio.


Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM


Re: Low Input Voltage in Mobile

Bob Rodgers <kc4tvo@...>
 

I agree on diodes failing. 

 

I run two IC-7000s, they are designed to operate at 13.8V to output full power.  Try dropping your output power a bit and the turning itself off should go away.  I dropped mine to 50% and then worked my way back up.  I found with a good battery, I could consistently run 75+ watts! If you have to have the full 100W, then either run the engine or install a batter booster (MFJ-4416C)  They are a little pricey though.

 

For a dual battery setup, I found the West Mountain Radio ISOpwr+ to be just the ticket. It charges both batteries from the alternator, but isolates them for operation.

 

The above works for me.  YMMV.

 

Bob

KC4TVO

 

 

From: ic7000@groups.io [mailto:ic7000@groups.io] On Behalf Of Richard
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2019 9:14 PM
To: ic7000@groups.io
Subject: Re: [ic7000] Low Input Voltage in Mobile

 

In newer vehicles that will cause the diodes to fail.

 

73, 

Rich W6ABJ

 

On Wed, Feb 13, 2019 at 5:25 PM Mark Schoonover <mark@...> wrote:

Once the vehicle is running and the output of the alternator is
greater than 12 volts, the alternator is supplying 100% of the rig's
power. Adding a second battery has no impact when the engine is
running but it does if you like to park and operate. Test it, start
your vehicle, disconnect the negative lead of the battery and your rig
& vehicle will run just fine. Now if your alternator has low output
I'd get that checked just to be sure it's good before investing in one
of those power boosters.

73! Mark KA6WKE

Website: https://www.ka6wke.net
Live Stream: https://www.ka6wke.net/live-stream
YouTube: http://bit.ly/ka6wke-live-stream
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ka6wke
Twitter: https://www.twitter.com/ka6wke
EMail Announcement: ka6wke-announce+subscribe@groups.io
Author: 4NEC2 The Definitive Guide
EMail List:: 4nec2defguide@groups.io

On Wed, Feb 13, 2019 at 4:17 PM Glenn Corrie <glenn.corrie@...> wrote:
>
> Install a dual battery system for your truck!
>
> Make sure you have a DC-DC charger too!
>
> Kind Regards
> Glenn Corrie
> Senior Product Manager
> T: +61 3 9900 9542  M: +61 414 445 597  E: glenn.corrie@...
> NEC Australia Pty Ltd: Level 9 720 Bourke St. Docklands, Victoria 3008
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ic7000@groups.io <ic7000@groups.io> On Behalf Of Tom Bohacek
> Sent: Monday, 11 February 2019 6:43 AM
> To: ic7000@groups.io
> Subject: Re: [ic7000] Low Input Voltage in Mobile
>
> I did the exact same thing with the 1960 Chevy.  Installed a second battery, but connected both of them to the alternator when the car was running.  No Diode drop.  I had purchased a 100 AMP alternator from the junk yard to charge both batteries.  When the engine was off, I could use the accessory battery as much as I wanted, and still be able to start the car.  I also had a heavy duty starting relay, that I could energize connecting both batteries together to start the car on very cold mornings.  I remember it being 26 below zero in Iowa and my car was the only one that ould start.  I spent the rest of the day, giving people jump starts.
>
> On 2/10/2019 2:30 PM, r norris via Groups.Io wrote:
> > Even when you find a power conditioner, consider….
> >
> > Back in the 90’s, a couple Ford Bronco’s had room for a second battery tray, under the hood.
> > I have also done a battery in the truck bed toolbox.
> > Charge both while driving, tap the fuse block for a source that the ignition key drops a relay to disconnect the “radio” battery, when stopped.
> > There are also automatic diode wigits for not letting current flow from the “truck” battery to the radio.
> > Run the radio until the second battery dies, always start the truck and drive away.
> >
> > Been there, done it. (Don’t ask why)…….
> >
> >> On Feb 10, 2019, at 12:27, Dan Fisher AI4GK <ai4gk@...> wrote:
> >>
> >> Undoubtedly, everyone is aware of the IC-7K's dependence on input voltage. In my 2016 F-150, the computer decides how much power the alternator puts out. Gone are the days of constant 13.7 Volts. The problem is, I can't rely on the input voltage from one transmission to the next. Has anyone resolved this problem? I've been looking at a constant-voltage DC power conditioner, but can't find anything. Any ideas?
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> --
> Thank You
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>



Re: Low Input Voltage in Mobile

Richard
 

In newer vehicles that will cause the diodes to fail.

73, 
Rich W6ABJ

On Wed, Feb 13, 2019 at 5:25 PM Mark Schoonover <mark@...> wrote:
Once the vehicle is running and the output of the alternator is
greater than 12 volts, the alternator is supplying 100% of the rig's
power. Adding a second battery has no impact when the engine is
running but it does if you like to park and operate. Test it, start
your vehicle, disconnect the negative lead of the battery and your rig
& vehicle will run just fine. Now if your alternator has low output
I'd get that checked just to be sure it's good before investing in one
of those power boosters.

73! Mark KA6WKE

Website: https://www.ka6wke.net
Live Stream: https://www.ka6wke.net/live-stream
YouTube: http://bit.ly/ka6wke-live-stream
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ka6wke
Twitter: https://www.twitter.com/ka6wke
EMail Announcement: ka6wke-announce+subscribe@groups.io
Author: 4NEC2 The Definitive Guide
EMail List:: 4nec2defguide@groups.io

On Wed, Feb 13, 2019 at 4:17 PM Glenn Corrie <glenn.corrie@...> wrote:
>
> Install a dual battery system for your truck!
>
> Make sure you have a DC-DC charger too!
>
> Kind Regards
> Glenn Corrie
> Senior Product Manager
> T: +61 3 9900 9542  M: +61 414 445 597  E: glenn.corrie@...
> NEC Australia Pty Ltd: Level 9 720 Bourke St. Docklands, Victoria 3008
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ic7000@groups.io <ic7000@groups.io> On Behalf Of Tom Bohacek
> Sent: Monday, 11 February 2019 6:43 AM
> To: ic7000@groups.io
> Subject: Re: [ic7000] Low Input Voltage in Mobile
>
> I did the exact same thing with the 1960 Chevy.  Installed a second battery, but connected both of them to the alternator when the car was running.  No Diode drop.  I had purchased a 100 AMP alternator from the junk yard to charge both batteries.  When the engine was off, I could use the accessory battery as much as I wanted, and still be able to start the car.  I also had a heavy duty starting relay, that I could energize connecting both batteries together to start the car on very cold mornings.  I remember it being 26 below zero in Iowa and my car was the only one that ould start.  I spent the rest of the day, giving people jump starts.
>
> On 2/10/2019 2:30 PM, r norris via Groups.Io wrote:
> > Even when you find a power conditioner, consider….
> >
> > Back in the 90’s, a couple Ford Bronco’s had room for a second battery tray, under the hood.
> > I have also done a battery in the truck bed toolbox.
> > Charge both while driving, tap the fuse block for a source that the ignition key drops a relay to disconnect the “radio” battery, when stopped.
> > There are also automatic diode wigits for not letting current flow from the “truck” battery to the radio.
> > Run the radio until the second battery dies, always start the truck and drive away.
> >
> > Been there, done it. (Don’t ask why)…….
> >
> >> On Feb 10, 2019, at 12:27, Dan Fisher AI4GK <ai4gk@...> wrote:
> >>
> >> Undoubtedly, everyone is aware of the IC-7K's dependence on input voltage. In my 2016 F-150, the computer decides how much power the alternator puts out. Gone are the days of constant 13.7 Volts. The problem is, I can't rely on the input voltage from one transmission to the next. Has anyone resolved this problem? I've been looking at a constant-voltage DC power conditioner, but can't find anything. Any ideas?
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> --
> Thank You
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>




Re: Low Input Voltage in Mobile

Mark Schoonover
 

Once the vehicle is running and the output of the alternator is
greater than 12 volts, the alternator is supplying 100% of the rig's
power. Adding a second battery has no impact when the engine is
running but it does if you like to park and operate. Test it, start
your vehicle, disconnect the negative lead of the battery and your rig
& vehicle will run just fine. Now if your alternator has low output
I'd get that checked just to be sure it's good before investing in one
of those power boosters.

73! Mark KA6WKE

Website: https://www.ka6wke.net
Live Stream: https://www.ka6wke.net/live-stream
YouTube: http://bit.ly/ka6wke-live-stream
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ka6wke
Twitter: https://www.twitter.com/ka6wke
EMail Announcement: ka6wke-announce+subscribe@groups.io
Author: 4NEC2 The Definitive Guide
EMail List:: 4nec2defguide@groups.io

On Wed, Feb 13, 2019 at 4:17 PM Glenn Corrie <glenn.corrie@nec.com.au> wrote:

Install a dual battery system for your truck!

Make sure you have a DC-DC charger too!

Kind Regards
Glenn Corrie
Senior Product Manager
T: +61 3 9900 9542 M: +61 414 445 597 E: glenn.corrie@nec.com.au
NEC Australia Pty Ltd: Level 9 720 Bourke St. Docklands, Victoria 3008



-----Original Message-----
From: ic7000@groups.io <ic7000@groups.io> On Behalf Of Tom Bohacek
Sent: Monday, 11 February 2019 6:43 AM
To: ic7000@groups.io
Subject: Re: [ic7000] Low Input Voltage in Mobile

I did the exact same thing with the 1960 Chevy. Installed a second battery, but connected both of them to the alternator when the car was running. No Diode drop. I had purchased a 100 AMP alternator from the junk yard to charge both batteries. When the engine was off, I could use the accessory battery as much as I wanted, and still be able to start the car. I also had a heavy duty starting relay, that I could energize connecting both batteries together to start the car on very cold mornings. I remember it being 26 below zero in Iowa and my car was the only one that ould start. I spent the rest of the day, giving people jump starts.

On 2/10/2019 2:30 PM, r norris via Groups.Io wrote:
Even when you find a power conditioner, consider….

Back in the 90’s, a couple Ford Bronco’s had room for a second battery tray, under the hood.
I have also done a battery in the truck bed toolbox.
Charge both while driving, tap the fuse block for a source that the ignition key drops a relay to disconnect the “radio” battery, when stopped.
There are also automatic diode wigits for not letting current flow from the “truck” battery to the radio.
Run the radio until the second battery dies, always start the truck and drive away.

Been there, done it. (Don’t ask why)…….

On Feb 10, 2019, at 12:27, Dan Fisher AI4GK <ai4gk@cfl.rr.com> wrote:

Undoubtedly, everyone is aware of the IC-7K's dependence on input voltage. In my 2016 F-150, the computer decides how much power the alternator puts out. Gone are the days of constant 13.7 Volts. The problem is, I can't rely on the input voltage from one transmission to the next. Has anyone resolved this problem? I've been looking at a constant-voltage DC power conditioner, but can't find anything. Any ideas?



--
Thank You
Tom








Re: Low Input Voltage in Mobile

Glenn Corrie
 

Install a dual battery system for your truck!

Make sure you have a DC-DC charger too!

Kind Regards
Glenn Corrie
Senior Product Manager
T: +61 3 9900 9542 M: +61 414 445 597 E: glenn.corrie@nec.com.au
NEC Australia Pty Ltd: Level 9 720 Bourke St. Docklands, Victoria 3008

-----Original Message-----
From: ic7000@groups.io <ic7000@groups.io> On Behalf Of Tom Bohacek
Sent: Monday, 11 February 2019 6:43 AM
To: ic7000@groups.io
Subject: Re: [ic7000] Low Input Voltage in Mobile

I did the exact same thing with the 1960 Chevy.  Installed a second battery, but connected both of them to the alternator when the car was running.  No Diode drop.  I had purchased a 100 AMP alternator from the junk yard to charge both batteries.  When the engine was off, I could use the accessory battery as much as I wanted, and still be able to start the car.  I also had a heavy duty starting relay, that I could energize connecting both batteries together to start the car on very cold mornings.  I remember it being 26 below zero in Iowa and my car was the only one that ould start.  I spent the rest of the day, giving people jump starts.

On 2/10/2019 2:30 PM, r norris via Groups.Io wrote:
Even when you find a power conditioner, consider….

Back in the 90’s, a couple Ford Bronco’s had room for a second battery tray, under the hood.
I have also done a battery in the truck bed toolbox.
Charge both while driving, tap the fuse block for a source that the ignition key drops a relay to disconnect the “radio” battery, when stopped.
There are also automatic diode wigits for not letting current flow from the “truck” battery to the radio.
Run the radio until the second battery dies, always start the truck and drive away.

Been there, done it. (Don’t ask why)…….

On Feb 10, 2019, at 12:27, Dan Fisher AI4GK <ai4gk@cfl.rr.com> wrote:

Undoubtedly, everyone is aware of the IC-7K's dependence on input voltage. In my 2016 F-150, the computer decides how much power the alternator puts out. Gone are the days of constant 13.7 Volts. The problem is, I can't rely on the input voltage from one transmission to the next. Has anyone resolved this problem? I've been looking at a constant-voltage DC power conditioner, but can't find anything. Any ideas?



--
Thank You
Tom


Re: Separation cable

Ahmad Eddie Mobasheri
 

Hi to all!
I am wondering how can I get hands on one separation cable ( Icom Ic-opc-1443, 3.5m). Even a working second hand will do me!
I am in Auckland, New Zealand.
Kind regards
Eddie Mobasheri 
ZL1AEm
***********************
Ahmad E Mobasheri
46 Bollard Avenue
New Windsor 0600
Auckland, NZ
Ph: +64 0212 (Persia) 737 742
**************************************

--
Eddie Mobasheri
Auckland, New Zealand
ZL1AEM


Re: Low Input Voltage in Mobile

N1GBE
 

https://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-4416C

Is the link to the MFJ product...


-------------------------------------------

On Sun, 2/10/19, Dan Fisher AI4GK <ai4gk@cfl.rr.com> wrote:

Subject: [ic7000] Low Input Voltage in Mobile
To: ic7000@groups.io
Date: Sunday, February 10, 2019, 12:27 PM

Undoubtedly, everyone is aware of
the IC-7K's dependence on input voltage. In my 2016
F-150, the computer decides how much power the alternator
puts out. Gone are the days of constant 13.7 Volts. The
problem is, I can't rely on the input voltage from one
transmission to the next. Has anyone resolved this problem?
I've been looking at a constant-voltage DC power
conditioner, but can't find anything. Any ideas?


Thanks in advance,

Dan AI4GK


Re: Low Input Voltage in Mobile

Tom Bohacek
 

I did the exact same thing with the 1960 Chevy.  Installed a second battery, but connected both of them to the alternator when the car was running.  No Diode drop.  I had purchased a 100 AMP alternator from the junk yard to charge both batteries.  When the engine was off, I could use the accessory battery as much as I wanted, and still be able to start the car.  I also had a heavy duty starting relay, that I could energize connecting both batteries together to start the car on very cold mornings.  I remember it being 26 below zero in Iowa and my car was the only one that ould start.  I spent the rest of the day, giving people jump starts.

On 2/10/2019 2:30 PM, r norris via Groups.Io wrote:
Even when you find a power conditioner, consider….

Back in the 90’s, a couple Ford Bronco’s had room for a second battery tray, under the hood.
I have also done a battery in the truck bed toolbox.
Charge both while driving, tap the fuse block for a source that the ignition key drops a relay to disconnect the “radio” battery, when stopped.
There are also automatic diode wigits for not letting current flow from the “truck” battery to the radio.
Run the radio until the second battery dies, always start the truck and drive away.

Been there, done it. (Don’t ask why)…….

On Feb 10, 2019, at 12:27, Dan Fisher AI4GK <ai4gk@cfl.rr.com> wrote:

Undoubtedly, everyone is aware of the IC-7K's dependence on input voltage. In my 2016 F-150, the computer decides how much power the alternator puts out. Gone are the days of constant 13.7 Volts. The problem is, I can't rely on the input voltage from one transmission to the next. Has anyone resolved this problem? I've been looking at a constant-voltage DC power conditioner, but can't find anything. Any ideas?


--
Thank You
Tom


Re: Low Input Voltage in Mobile

r norris
 

Even when you find a power conditioner, consider….

Back in the 90’s, a couple Ford Bronco’s had room for a second battery tray, under the hood.
I have also done a battery in the truck bed toolbox.
Charge both while driving, tap the fuse block for a source that the ignition key drops a relay to disconnect the “radio” battery, when stopped.
There are also automatic diode wigits for not letting current flow from the “truck” battery to the radio.
Run the radio until the second battery dies, always start the truck and drive away.

Been there, done it. (Don’t ask why)…….

On Feb 10, 2019, at 12:27, Dan Fisher AI4GK <ai4gk@cfl.rr.com> wrote:

Undoubtedly, everyone is aware of the IC-7K's dependence on input voltage. In my 2016 F-150, the computer decides how much power the alternator puts out. Gone are the days of constant 13.7 Volts. The problem is, I can't rely on the input voltage from one transmission to the next. Has anyone resolved this problem? I've been looking at a constant-voltage DC power conditioner, but can't find anything. Any ideas?


Re: Low Input Voltage in Mobile

davebb123456
 

Hi Dan
I am selling a W4RRY voltage booster for this problem,
I have it on ebay number , 
303034056371

Thanks Dave 2E0DMB




On 10 Feb 2019 17:27, Dan Fisher AI4GK <ai4gk@...> wrote:
Undoubtedly, everyone is aware of the IC-7K's dependence on input voltage. In my 2016 F-150, the computer decides how much power the alternator puts out. Gone are the days of constant 13.7 Volts. The problem is, I can't rely on the input voltage from one transmission to the next. Has anyone resolved this problem? I've been looking at a constant-voltage DC power conditioner, but can't find anything. Any ideas?


Thanks in advance,

Dan AI4GK


ALC pegs on SSB but no output, too high power output on others

 

My "fixed" IC7000 has a transmit problem. 
It seems to be OK on receive but on SSB the ALC pegs with even the least audio and it puts out no RF power.
On RTTY, CW, etc it seems to put out too mucheap power.
Any thoughts as to where to start looking?
I have replaced the ribbon cables from the main board to the PA board as the old ones cracked while working on the "Click Click" problem. 


Re: IC7000 Intermittently Deaf on 80 Meters when Cold

 

I will check when I get back to the QTH but I believe that the CPU turns on different "lines" from the main board to the PA board and they are routed through the ribbon cables in the back. 
Sometimes these are temperature sensitive. 
I will look when I get a chance to see if this could be the case.


Re: Low Input Voltage in Mobile

bobsayers2000 <bobsayers2000@...>
 

I've got an MFJ unit which maintains a supply at a constant 13.6. I can't remember the model number at the moment as I'm not at home, but it works well. 

Bob, G8IYK


On Sun, 10 Feb 2019 at 17:27, Dan Fisher AI4GK
<ai4gk@...> wrote:
Undoubtedly, everyone is aware of the IC-7K's dependence on input voltage. In my 2016 F-150, the computer decides how much power the alternator puts out. Gone are the days of constant 13.7 Volts. The problem is, I can't rely on the input voltage from one transmission to the next. Has anyone resolved this problem? I've been looking at a constant-voltage DC power conditioner, but can't find anything. Any ideas?


Thanks in advance,

Dan AI4GK


Low Input Voltage in Mobile

Dan Fisher AI4GK
 

Undoubtedly, everyone is aware of the IC-7K's dependence on input voltage. In my 2016 F-150, the computer decides how much power the alternator puts out. Gone are the days of constant 13.7 Volts. The problem is, I can't rely on the input voltage from one transmission to the next. Has anyone resolved this problem? I've been looking at a constant-voltage DC power conditioner, but can't find anything. Any ideas?


Thanks in advance,

Dan AI4GK


Re: IC7000 Intermittently Deaf on 80 Meters when Cold

N1GBE
 

Any thoughts????

On Saturday, January 26, 2019, 5:01:17 PM EST, N1GBE <ralph.celone@...> wrote:


I have my 7000 mounted in my car. I have noticed that when the temperature is below freezing, my 7000 is deaf on 80 meters when I first turn it on. I have also noticed that the receive kicks right in with normal sensitivity at 4.000.000 MHz. If I tune one step lower, receive cuts out. If I tune back up to 4.000.000 MHz receive pops back in. This condition goes away once the interior of the car warms up a bit.

My question to the group is: Is there something in the receive chain that switches right at 4.000.000 MHz? Perhaps a sealed BPF relay that has become unsealed and gotten moisture inside of it???

Thanks,
N1GBE


Re: IC-7000/Navigator and IC-7800 to PW-1 Hookup

k4pwo <k4pwo@...>
 

The data port on the 7000 is the one you want to use. The other connector keeps the mike hot while the data port mutes the mike.

Perry



Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S7 edge.

-------- Original message --------
From: Bill M <bmarx@...>
Date: 2/9/19 4:25 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: ic7000@groups.io
Subject: Re: [ic7000] IC-7000/Navigator and IC-7800 to PW-1 Hookup

In speaking to Randy at Timewave they also have a cable using the data port and not the ACC. Since no one has answered me on three reflectors, I am guessing no one is using the Navigator/7000 and PW-1 at the same time the IC-7800 is hooked to the PW-1?
Bill W2CQ


Re: IC-7000 and IC-7800 to PW-1 Cable

k4pwo <k4pwo@...>
 

Bill,
You'll need to make a splitter cable to get the amp keying output from the IC-7000.

Perry



Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S7 edge.

-------- Original message --------
From: Bill M <bmarx@...>
Date: 2/9/19 7:43 AM (GMT-06:00)
To: ic7000@groups.io
Subject: Re: [ic7000] IC-7000 and IC-7800 to PW-1 Cable

Hi Steve,
Thanks and maybe you can help further. I have the Navigator hooked to my IC-7000. My 7800 is hooked to the PW-1. I want to add the PW-1 to the 7000 but the ACC port is used by the Navigator. I see no diagrams or drawings to help. It appears to be a 7000 question because I received no replies on the Navigator group hi.
Bill


Re: IC-7000 and IC-7800 to PW-1 Cable

Steve Draper
 

Hi Bill,

then it could be a little tough. You would need a CIV splitter. The lines on the ACC cable would also need to be split and in some cases you may not be able to tie them all directly together without a buffer.

Steve VE7FM


On Sat, Feb 9, 2019 at 3:15 PM Bill M <bmarx@...> wrote:
Hi Steve,
Thanks and maybe you can help further. I have the Navigator hooked to my IC-7000. My 7800 is hooked to the PW-1. I want to add the PW-1 to the 7000 but the ACC port is used by the Navigator. I see no diagrams or drawings to help. It appears to be a 7000 question because I received no replies on the Navigator group hi.
Bill


Re: IC-7000/Navigator and IC-7800 to PW-1 Hookup

Bill M
 

In speaking to Randy at Timewave they also have a cable using the data port and not the ACC. Since no one has answered me on three reflectors, I am guessing no one is using the Navigator/7000 and PW-1 at the same time the IC-7800 is hooked to the PW-1?
Bill W2CQ


Re: IC-7000 and IC-7800 to PW-1 Cable

Bill M
 

Hi Steve,
Thanks and maybe you can help further. I have the Navigator hooked to my IC-7000. My 7800 is hooked to the PW-1. I want to add the PW-1 to the 7000 but the ACC port is used by the Navigator. I see no diagrams or drawings to help. It appears to be a 7000 question because I received no replies on the Navigator group hi.
Bill

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