Re: Low Input Voltage in Mobile


Glenn Corrie
 

Install a dual battery system for your truck!

Make sure you have a DC-DC charger too!

Kind Regards
Glenn Corrie
Senior Product Manager
T: +61 3 9900 9542 M: +61 414 445 597 E: glenn.corrie@nec.com.au
NEC Australia Pty Ltd: Level 9 720 Bourke St. Docklands, Victoria 3008

-----Original Message-----
From: ic7000@groups.io <ic7000@groups.io> On Behalf Of Tom Bohacek
Sent: Monday, 11 February 2019 6:43 AM
To: ic7000@groups.io
Subject: Re: [ic7000] Low Input Voltage in Mobile

I did the exact same thing with the 1960 Chevy.  Installed a second battery, but connected both of them to the alternator when the car was running.  No Diode drop.  I had purchased a 100 AMP alternator from the junk yard to charge both batteries.  When the engine was off, I could use the accessory battery as much as I wanted, and still be able to start the car.  I also had a heavy duty starting relay, that I could energize connecting both batteries together to start the car on very cold mornings.  I remember it being 26 below zero in Iowa and my car was the only one that ould start.  I spent the rest of the day, giving people jump starts.

On 2/10/2019 2:30 PM, r norris via Groups.Io wrote:
Even when you find a power conditioner, consider….

Back in the 90’s, a couple Ford Bronco’s had room for a second battery tray, under the hood.
I have also done a battery in the truck bed toolbox.
Charge both while driving, tap the fuse block for a source that the ignition key drops a relay to disconnect the “radio” battery, when stopped.
There are also automatic diode wigits for not letting current flow from the “truck” battery to the radio.
Run the radio until the second battery dies, always start the truck and drive away.

Been there, done it. (Don’t ask why)…….

On Feb 10, 2019, at 12:27, Dan Fisher AI4GK <ai4gk@cfl.rr.com> wrote:

Undoubtedly, everyone is aware of the IC-7K's dependence on input voltage. In my 2016 F-150, the computer decides how much power the alternator puts out. Gone are the days of constant 13.7 Volts. The problem is, I can't rely on the input voltage from one transmission to the next. Has anyone resolved this problem? I've been looking at a constant-voltage DC power conditioner, but can't find anything. Any ideas?



--
Thank You
Tom

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