Date   

Re: No TX - Correction TXing now

Adam Rong
 

Voltage is not that critical as far as I know. Around 12V should be good.

Thanks,
Adam

在 2021年7月1日,下午8:38,craig.jump via groups.io <craig.jump@...> 写道:

Cheers,

I cant remember. the voltage. at work at the moment.. but think there was a 0.25 volt of a difference..  I tried a few different 12v stabillised bricks.. they all varied quite a bit in voltage... 

Will post the voltage that is working this evening..


Re: No TX - Correction TXing now

craig.jump@...
 

Cheers,

I cant remember. the voltage. at work at the moment.. but think there was a 0.25 volt of a difference..  I tried a few different 12v stabillised bricks.. they all varied quite a bit in voltage... 

Will post the voltage that is working this evening..


Re: No TX

Carl Weiberg
 

I did and do appreciate all the support from the group. I no longer have these assemblies. 

iPhone Aloha

On Jul 1, 2021, at 6:49 AM, craig.jump via groups.io <craig.jump@...> wrote:

Finally got a response on PSK reporter..     after changing my power supply..      slightly higher voltage input 

Oh well proves it works..   brill as can now take it on my holidays which is what I wanted it for..     

<Screenshot 2021-07-01 124508.png>

--
CW


Re: No TX - Correction TXing now

Peter LB0K
 

Congrats Craig

What was the initial supply voltage, and the new increased voltage?

 

Remember that power out is related the square of the applied voltage.

 

Peter – LB0K

 

From: crkits@groups.io [mailto:crkits@groups.io] On Behalf Of craig.jump via groups.io
Sent: 01 July 2021 13:49
To: crkits@groups.io
Subject: Re: [crkits] No TX

 

Finally got a response on PSK reporter..     after changing my power supply..      slightly higher voltage input 

Oh well proves it works..   brill as can now take it on my holidays which is what I wanted it for..     


Re: No TX

craig.jump@...
 

Finally got a response on PSK reporter..     after changing my power supply..      slightly higher voltage input 

Oh well proves it works..   brill as can now take it on my holidays which is what I wanted it for..     


Re: No TX

Peter LB0K
 

Craig er .jump!

You are a little mistaken about the effect YOUR local noise can have in drowning out your transmitted signal. It doesn’t work quite like that, it is the local noise at the receiving point that can overwhelm an incoming signal there.

 

It can be a challenge to confirm a small TX is working properly and maybe correct a few issues before going on to the first contact(s).
Using a local RX is a good move and an even better one, in terms of building confidence, is to have a dummy load with a TX power indicator.

This can just consist of –

A bank of resistors connected in parallel and giving a total resistance of about 50, or 75 Ohms. Rated dissipation need be only 4-5W.

A diode (1N914) and a filter/smoothing capacitor (10nF) connected across the resistor bank.

A suitable indicating device (LED?) or a meter connected from the diode-capacitor junction and down to the ground. Each will NEED a suitable series resistor to set the scaling.

 

Or, one can use a testmeter / voltmeter connected to the same points on the dummy load and use this as an indicator.
Do be aware that you can easily get unwanted pick-up on the voltmeter test leads, so the internal meter is a better long term choice..

 

AA5TB shows his version at - http://www.aa5tb.com/qrpmeter.html, and VK3YE has published his version at https://vk3ye.com/projects/projpwr.htm. Or also http://www.gqrp.com/technical15.htm.

 

And there are many others. Try looking at the GQRP club publications for even more ideas.

 

There are also many kits available for building such a simple small piece of test equipment, look e.g. at QRP-Labs http://qrp-labs.com/dummy.html or K1DJV(I think it is)

 

You don’t need milliWatt accuracy but it is nice to see that a signal of a given level is present and coming out.  
As you have an IC-7300 (nice) you can easily check your TX frequency, so now you have two important variables covered.

 

Connect your new dummy load (not the antenna) to the small TX, and monitor the output frequency with a small piece of wire placed NEAR to the TX and into your 7300. Voila! You have an uncalibrated receiver /voltmeter/analyser and you can vary the input signal by changing the position and length of the piece of wire to the antenna of the 7300.

 

Now try poking around in and examining your D4D module to see where and how it should be improved or cured. You are looking for significant improvements of output level it seems, and connections to-from the output transformer can be a good place to start.

One correspondent has already mentioned the lacquer on transformer wire, it can be a pain to remove just by heating so I try to scrape off some of the enamel anyway before soldering. This very often speeds up the wetting process.

 

IF the output device has an internal short or open, measuring the circuit voltages there, is unlikely to show this, unless one uses a ‘scope and can see the dynamic - AC signals.

 

Note also that tiny crystals can be easily damaged with soldering temperatures we earlier found as normal, frequency jumps or errors would be the first symptoms. Your 7300 will help find this.

 

I hope you’re not using lead-free solder!

 

 

Using a QRP rig will not get you to the front in any pile-up, it will give you a greater feeling of achievement with the other contacts. That is the motivation for many of us.

I hope these words can get you back on the rails to sort out your rig, and I’ll go back to improving my uBITX.

 

 

Peter – LB0K

 


Re: No TX

Adam Rong
 

Guys,

The design is okay and I have built near 10 kits at the beginning, all good. I do have many happy customers worldwide. However I understand there are a few examples of not working, no TX or even frustration.

Larry complained to me about his direct customer. He said the customer could not get any of his 40m or 20m transmitting properly and he refunded. And I refunded Larry.

Take it easy and build with care.

Thanks,
Adam

在 2021年7月1日,下午12:22,Larry Lovell <larry.lovell76@...> 写道:


I like to think that I know a bit about electronics.  I have been building kits for over 50 years.  This D4D/FT8 goes together very well.  It is a nice looking kit and set-up.  However, a couple of the radios that I have looked at do not operate properly and I am at a loss as to why.  Both the 20 M and 40 M receive like champs but I did not get any contacts from either of these two.  They were assembled well, and should operate.  The software seems to activate the units at the appropriate times.  I have set these two radios aside until I can verify that I understand better this mode of operation.  But as far as I can tell all individual components are working.  The 20 Meter rig is only putting out 200 mW!, that is milliwatts.  The 40 Meter was putting out a nice sine wave but not at the proper frequency.  
Things happen even with the best design.  I will eventually get to the bottom of the problem but I don't have access to the nice equipment that I had when I was working full time.
This is not to bash the kit only to say that things can and do happen.

On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 9:26 PM Carl Weiberg via groups.io <carlweiberg=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Nigel, I appreciated your help, and did your recommendations. Unfortunately without success. I installed NOS Philips BD139, no change. Checked all transformers, no change. It wasn’t a matter of being unskilled in building, I been building homebrews and kits since the 1970’s. The 2 D4D rigs simply did not reliably function. I gave one away, and that ham could not resolve the issues with TX as well. Yes, the rigs were inexpensive. I purchased them for the fun of building and the cost. I didn’t expect to reach the end of the universe on sub watt kits. I did expect reasonable performance. I am not saying it’s the design, as it could be other factors. But since others have similar experiences, I doubt it’s the assembly process. If yours works that is great. I don’t believe your great results should be assumed to indicate all others should have the same performance. They may, or should, but from what is reported they don’t. I spent countless hours troubleshooting. I spent additional money on new parts. In the end, the frustration replaced fun of building and operating. I felt it best to move on, donate the rig to someone, and return to using a rig that puts out a reliable and true watt. It may be a bit larger, but it does the job.

Again, if the rig meets your expectations, that’s all that matters. I don’t believe any comments to be a design attack, but rather objective reporting on an individuals opinion and experience. 20 parts or 200, doesn’t matter as long as it functions as intended. 

iPhone Aloha

On Jun 30, 2021, at 9:16 PM, Nigel Young <multilec@...> wrote:


Oh my, such negative results from such a simple kit. Come on guys, did you overstep your abilities? There are like 20 parts. There have been many thousands built and they work. Yes it's ONE watt if you are lucky, You try and get 5 watts from an FT817 at 20m good luck.
I've said it before and definitely won't say it again, when you look at a design, look at the finals, examine the data sheet, know the limitations. The BUY NOW button doesn't factor in some how. I wonder why?
This is a low power mode. I would hate to live next door to someone running 100w FT8, really? Why?
You can hear and see them on the scope, and oh man it does not look pretty.
From NZ with this exact rig I have worked all the US, the Caribbean, and the top half of Europe, I don't mention the South pacific as that's a given. What do you want with a Watt? Well it's not quite a Watt, it's a BD139 look at the specs, a guy earlier stated 200mW on 20m, I'd say on a good day. But that's what attracted you to buy it right? Or was it the price?
My point is here that it's an experimental platform for you to cut your teeth and carry on. 
Adams design is no different to the the other offerings out there. But he made it, it works and we all move on. I'm sure it's as very popular kit for him.
Your falure to get it to work at all says a lot to me. The guy that asked for help don't need people like you to knock him down.
I replied to him at 3.3AM and I will stick with him till it's resolved.
Shame on you.
De ZL1NAY


Kia Kaha

On Thu, Jul 1, 2021, 1:06 PM Adam Rong <rongxh@...> wrote:
All,

If you don’t see any output at all, please double check the wiring of the transformer T1. Some people make mistakes there.

Thanks,
Adam

2021年6月30日 下午7:23,craig.jump via groups.io <craig.jump@...> 写道:

I have just built  D4D 20m kit..

Receiving well, but just not getting any replies.. 

Relay clicks ok..     have changed the output transistor. (BD139). and voltages on it on TX are as follows..

B - 0.892v
C - 11.82v
E - 0.291v

I dont have a scope to test, but kinda looks like its tx'ing...   but not sure

 

Anything else I should check ?

Many Thanks
craig
2M0JUM



--
CW



--
Larry Lovell
73's N7RGW
http://QRVTronics.com
Cell: 214-697-1729


Re: No TX

Nigel Young ZL1NAY
 

Carl, I was not aiming my point at you in particular, more to the people that build and forget because it didn't fit they're pro forma. They are quick to damn something but neither do they share anything good.
So, Carl, where are you up to? I replied very early this morning assuming you had receive working.
I put on this website many months ago a voltage chart based on my own measurements. Maybe look for that under my name ofcourse.

I suggest you take a look at that first before commenting any further. These were the readings on 40m as I recall. Not scientific but but trying to help someone else out with issues. The final toroid seems to be the main issue since everything else is cut and paste..
Check you have continuety across all the windings and, that it's the right way around. Sometimes in a rush we make these mistakes but never admit to them. Most all of the other parts are common to the receiver, so I'd start there. Also check the orientation of the pre driver transistor and the buffer before it.
If you have a Watt meter that will go down low enough to qrpp you can check with that, otherwise a broadcast receiver will do a makeshift job.
We are all willing to help you through the process to get it up and running. And, when you do, you will find 100w FT8 is definitely not the way for this mode. It's also a great way to find your antenna performance without using whisper which is painfully slow but thorough.

Nigel

Kia Kaha


On Thu, Jul 1, 2021, 3:26 PM Carl Weiberg via groups.io <carlweiberg=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Nigel, I appreciated your help, and did your recommendations. Unfortunately without success. I installed NOS Philips BD139, no change. Checked all transformers, no change. It wasn’t a matter of being unskilled in building, I been building homebrews and kits since the 1970’s. The 2 D4D rigs simply did not reliably function. I gave one away, and that ham could not resolve the issues with TX as well. Yes, the rigs were inexpensive. I purchased them for the fun of building and the cost. I didn’t expect to reach the end of the universe on sub watt kits. I did expect reasonable performance. I am not saying it’s the design, as it could be other factors. But since others have similar experiences, I doubt it’s the assembly process. If yours works that is great. I don’t believe your great results should be assumed to indicate all others should have the same performance. They may, or should, but from what is reported they don’t. I spent countless hours troubleshooting. I spent additional money on new parts. In the end, the frustration replaced fun of building and operating. I felt it best to move on, donate the rig to someone, and return to using a rig that puts out a reliable and true watt. It may be a bit larger, but it does the job.

Again, if the rig meets your expectations, that’s all that matters. I don’t believe any comments to be a design attack, but rather objective reporting on an individuals opinion and experience. 20 parts or 200, doesn’t matter as long as it functions as intended. 

iPhone Aloha

On Jun 30, 2021, at 9:16 PM, Nigel Young <multilec@...> wrote:


Oh my, such negative results from such a simple kit. Come on guys, did you overstep your abilities? There are like 20 parts. There have been many thousands built and they work. Yes it's ONE watt if you are lucky, You try and get 5 watts from an FT817 at 20m good luck.
I've said it before and definitely won't say it again, when you look at a design, look at the finals, examine the data sheet, know the limitations. The BUY NOW button doesn't factor in some how. I wonder why?
This is a low power mode. I would hate to live next door to someone running 100w FT8, really? Why?
You can hear and see them on the scope, and oh man it does not look pretty.
From NZ with this exact rig I have worked all the US, the Caribbean, and the top half of Europe, I don't mention the South pacific as that's a given. What do you want with a Watt? Well it's not quite a Watt, it's a BD139 look at the specs, a guy earlier stated 200mW on 20m, I'd say on a good day. But that's what attracted you to buy it right? Or was it the price?
My point is here that it's an experimental platform for you to cut your teeth and carry on. 
Adams design is no different to the the other offerings out there. But he made it, it works and we all move on. I'm sure it's as very popular kit for him.
Your falure to get it to work at all says a lot to me. The guy that asked for help don't need people like you to knock him down.
I replied to him at 3.3AM and I will stick with him till it's resolved.
Shame on you.
De ZL1NAY


Kia Kaha

On Thu, Jul 1, 2021, 1:06 PM Adam Rong <rongxh@...> wrote:
All,

If you don’t see any output at all, please double check the wiring of the transformer T1. Some people make mistakes there.

Thanks,
Adam

2021年6月30日 下午7:23,craig.jump via groups.io <craig.jump@...> 写道:

I have just built  D4D 20m kit..

Receiving well, but just not getting any replies.. 

Relay clicks ok..     have changed the output transistor. (BD139). and voltages on it on TX are as follows..

B - 0.892v
C - 11.82v
E - 0.291v

I dont have a scope to test, but kinda looks like its tx'ing...   but not sure

 

Anything else I should check ?

Many Thanks
craig
2M0JUM



--
CW


Re: Standard CS-40V SSB -> CS-40V + Sandwich II

Larry Lovell
 

The original "Sandwich" removed the same components needed for the Digital VFO with OLED display.  Checkout: http://www.crkits.com/sandwichkitassemblymanual.pdf on page 5 and 6 should help.
If that is not good enough, email me separately and I will see what I can send.  This photo shows what is removed for the VFO.

On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 10:33 PM Erick <EDAHAN@...> wrote:
Hello,

I built a standard (regular VFO) CS-40V SSB kit. Works.

Due to the limited frequency range, I decided to get the QRVTronics Sandwich II kit AFTER I built the radio. Built it.

In attempting to retrofit the new VFO into the CS-40V I was wondering
1) has anyone documented a step-by-step removal guide (what components to remove, which ones must be removed gently vs broken off) - the sequence from the csmanual, the old/vs new sandwich are a bit confusing to me.
2) having trouble removing DIY coil DIY7-7# and would prefer not damaging the board. The based on my understanding is no longer needed (because alternate VFO). Would leaving it in the circuit impair functionality?
Should I just break off soldered legs and break it off?

Thanks for any hints!

--
Erick Dahan (VE2LRZ) 



--
Larry Lovell
73's N7RGW
http://QRVTronics.com
Cell: 214-697-1729


Standard CS-40V SSB -> CS-40V + Sandwich II

Erick (VE2LRZ)
 

Hello,

I built a standard (regular VFO) CS-40V SSB kit. Works.

Due to the limited frequency range, I decided to get the QRVTronics Sandwich II kit AFTER I built the radio. Built it.

In attempting to retrofit the new VFO into the CS-40V I was wondering
1) has anyone documented a step-by-step removal guide (what components to remove, which ones must be removed gently vs broken off) - the sequence from the csmanual, the old/vs new sandwich are a bit confusing to me.
2) having trouble removing DIY coil DIY7-7# and would prefer not damaging the board. The based on my understanding is no longer needed (because alternate VFO). Would leaving it in the circuit impair functionality?
Should I just break off soldered legs and break it off?

Thanks for any hints!

--
Erick Dahan (VE2LRZ) 


Re: No TX

Larry Lovell
 

I like to think that I know a bit about electronics.  I have been building kits for over 50 years.  This D4D/FT8 goes together very well.  It is a nice looking kit and set-up.  However, a couple of the radios that I have looked at do not operate properly and I am at a loss as to why.  Both the 20 M and 40 M receive like champs but I did not get any contacts from either of these two.  They were assembled well, and should operate.  The software seems to activate the units at the appropriate times.  I have set these two radios aside until I can verify that I understand better this mode of operation.  But as far as I can tell all individual components are working.  The 20 Meter rig is only putting out 200 mW!, that is milliwatts.  The 40 Meter was putting out a nice sine wave but not at the proper frequency.  
Things happen even with the best design.  I will eventually get to the bottom of the problem but I don't have access to the nice equipment that I had when I was working full time.
This is not to bash the kit only to say that things can and do happen.

On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 9:26 PM Carl Weiberg via groups.io <carlweiberg=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Nigel, I appreciated your help, and did your recommendations. Unfortunately without success. I installed NOS Philips BD139, no change. Checked all transformers, no change. It wasn’t a matter of being unskilled in building, I been building homebrews and kits since the 1970’s. The 2 D4D rigs simply did not reliably function. I gave one away, and that ham could not resolve the issues with TX as well. Yes, the rigs were inexpensive. I purchased them for the fun of building and the cost. I didn’t expect to reach the end of the universe on sub watt kits. I did expect reasonable performance. I am not saying it’s the design, as it could be other factors. But since others have similar experiences, I doubt it’s the assembly process. If yours works that is great. I don’t believe your great results should be assumed to indicate all others should have the same performance. They may, or should, but from what is reported they don’t. I spent countless hours troubleshooting. I spent additional money on new parts. In the end, the frustration replaced fun of building and operating. I felt it best to move on, donate the rig to someone, and return to using a rig that puts out a reliable and true watt. It may be a bit larger, but it does the job.

Again, if the rig meets your expectations, that’s all that matters. I don’t believe any comments to be a design attack, but rather objective reporting on an individuals opinion and experience. 20 parts or 200, doesn’t matter as long as it functions as intended. 

iPhone Aloha

On Jun 30, 2021, at 9:16 PM, Nigel Young <multilec@...> wrote:


Oh my, such negative results from such a simple kit. Come on guys, did you overstep your abilities? There are like 20 parts. There have been many thousands built and they work. Yes it's ONE watt if you are lucky, You try and get 5 watts from an FT817 at 20m good luck.
I've said it before and definitely won't say it again, when you look at a design, look at the finals, examine the data sheet, know the limitations. The BUY NOW button doesn't factor in some how. I wonder why?
This is a low power mode. I would hate to live next door to someone running 100w FT8, really? Why?
You can hear and see them on the scope, and oh man it does not look pretty.
From NZ with this exact rig I have worked all the US, the Caribbean, and the top half of Europe, I don't mention the South pacific as that's a given. What do you want with a Watt? Well it's not quite a Watt, it's a BD139 look at the specs, a guy earlier stated 200mW on 20m, I'd say on a good day. But that's what attracted you to buy it right? Or was it the price?
My point is here that it's an experimental platform for you to cut your teeth and carry on. 
Adams design is no different to the the other offerings out there. But he made it, it works and we all move on. I'm sure it's as very popular kit for him.
Your falure to get it to work at all says a lot to me. The guy that asked for help don't need people like you to knock him down.
I replied to him at 3.3AM and I will stick with him till it's resolved.
Shame on you.
De ZL1NAY


Kia Kaha

On Thu, Jul 1, 2021, 1:06 PM Adam Rong <rongxh@...> wrote:
All,

If you don’t see any output at all, please double check the wiring of the transformer T1. Some people make mistakes there.

Thanks,
Adam

2021年6月30日 下午7:23,craig.jump via groups.io <craig.jump@...> 写道:

I have just built  D4D 20m kit..

Receiving well, but just not getting any replies.. 

Relay clicks ok..     have changed the output transistor. (BD139). and voltages on it on TX are as follows..

B - 0.892v
C - 11.82v
E - 0.291v

I dont have a scope to test, but kinda looks like its tx'ing...   but not sure

 

Anything else I should check ?

Many Thanks
craig
2M0JUM



--
CW



--
Larry Lovell
73's N7RGW
http://QRVTronics.com
Cell: 214-697-1729


Re: No TX

Carl Weiberg
 

Nigel, I appreciated your help, and did your recommendations. Unfortunately without success. I installed NOS Philips BD139, no change. Checked all transformers, no change. It wasn’t a matter of being unskilled in building, I been building homebrews and kits since the 1970’s. The 2 D4D rigs simply did not reliably function. I gave one away, and that ham could not resolve the issues with TX as well. Yes, the rigs were inexpensive. I purchased them for the fun of building and the cost. I didn’t expect to reach the end of the universe on sub watt kits. I did expect reasonable performance. I am not saying it’s the design, as it could be other factors. But since others have similar experiences, I doubt it’s the assembly process. If yours works that is great. I don’t believe your great results should be assumed to indicate all others should have the same performance. They may, or should, but from what is reported they don’t. I spent countless hours troubleshooting. I spent additional money on new parts. In the end, the frustration replaced fun of building and operating. I felt it best to move on, donate the rig to someone, and return to using a rig that puts out a reliable and true watt. It may be a bit larger, but it does the job.

Again, if the rig meets your expectations, that’s all that matters. I don’t believe any comments to be a design attack, but rather objective reporting on an individuals opinion and experience. 20 parts or 200, doesn’t matter as long as it functions as intended. 

iPhone Aloha

On Jun 30, 2021, at 9:16 PM, Nigel Young <multilec@...> wrote:


Oh my, such negative results from such a simple kit. Come on guys, did you overstep your abilities? There are like 20 parts. There have been many thousands built and they work. Yes it's ONE watt if you are lucky, You try and get 5 watts from an FT817 at 20m good luck.
I've said it before and definitely won't say it again, when you look at a design, look at the finals, examine the data sheet, know the limitations. The BUY NOW button doesn't factor in some how. I wonder why?
This is a low power mode. I would hate to live next door to someone running 100w FT8, really? Why?
You can hear and see them on the scope, and oh man it does not look pretty.
From NZ with this exact rig I have worked all the US, the Caribbean, and the top half of Europe, I don't mention the South pacific as that's a given. What do you want with a Watt? Well it's not quite a Watt, it's a BD139 look at the specs, a guy earlier stated 200mW on 20m, I'd say on a good day. But that's what attracted you to buy it right? Or was it the price?
My point is here that it's an experimental platform for you to cut your teeth and carry on. 
Adams design is no different to the the other offerings out there. But he made it, it works and we all move on. I'm sure it's as very popular kit for him.
Your falure to get it to work at all says a lot to me. The guy that asked for help don't need people like you to knock him down.
I replied to him at 3.3AM and I will stick with him till it's resolved.
Shame on you.
De ZL1NAY


Kia Kaha

On Thu, Jul 1, 2021, 1:06 PM Adam Rong <rongxh@...> wrote:
All,

If you don’t see any output at all, please double check the wiring of the transformer T1. Some people make mistakes there.

Thanks,
Adam

2021年6月30日 下午7:23,craig.jump via groups.io <craig.jump@...> 写道:

I have just built  D4D 20m kit..

Receiving well, but just not getting any replies.. 

Relay clicks ok..     have changed the output transistor. (BD139). and voltages on it on TX are as follows..

B - 0.892v
C - 11.82v
E - 0.291v

I dont have a scope to test, but kinda looks like its tx'ing...   but not sure

 

Anything else I should check ?

Many Thanks
craig
2M0JUM



--
CW


Re: No TX

Nigel Young ZL1NAY
 

Oh my, such negative results from such a simple kit. Come on guys, did you overstep your abilities? There are like 20 parts. There have been many thousands built and they work. Yes it's ONE watt if you are lucky, You try and get 5 watts from an FT817 at 20m good luck.
I've said it before and definitely won't say it again, when you look at a design, look at the finals, examine the data sheet, know the limitations. The BUY NOW button doesn't factor in some how. I wonder why?
This is a low power mode. I would hate to live next door to someone running 100w FT8, really? Why?
You can hear and see them on the scope, and oh man it does not look pretty.
From NZ with this exact rig I have worked all the US, the Caribbean, and the top half of Europe, I don't mention the South pacific as that's a given. What do you want with a Watt? Well it's not quite a Watt, it's a BD139 look at the specs, a guy earlier stated 200mW on 20m, I'd say on a good day. But that's what attracted you to buy it right? Or was it the price?
My point is here that it's an experimental platform for you to cut your teeth and carry on. 
Adams design is no different to the the other offerings out there. But he made it, it works and we all move on. I'm sure it's as very popular kit for him.
Your falure to get it to work at all says a lot to me. The guy that asked for help don't need people like you to knock him down.
I replied to him at 3.3AM and I will stick with him till it's resolved.
Shame on you.
De ZL1NAY


Kia Kaha


On Thu, Jul 1, 2021, 1:06 PM Adam Rong <rongxh@...> wrote:
All,

If you don’t see any output at all, please double check the wiring of the transformer T1. Some people make mistakes there.

Thanks,
Adam

2021年6月30日 下午7:23,craig.jump via groups.io <craig.jump@...> 写道:

I have just built  D4D 20m kit..

Receiving well, but just not getting any replies.. 

Relay clicks ok..     have changed the output transistor. (BD139). and voltages on it on TX are as follows..

B - 0.892v
C - 11.82v
E - 0.291v

I dont have a scope to test, but kinda looks like its tx'ing...   but not sure

 

Anything else I should check ?

Many Thanks
craig
2M0JUM



Re: No TX

Adam Rong
 

All,

If you don’t see any output at all, please double check the wiring of the transformer T1. Some people make mistakes there.

Thanks,
Adam

2021年6月30日 下午7:23,craig.jump via groups.io <craig.jump@...> 写道:

I have just built  D4D 20m kit..

Receiving well, but just not getting any replies.. 

Relay clicks ok..     have changed the output transistor. (BD139). and voltages on it on TX are as follows..

B - 0.892v
C - 11.82v
E - 0.291v

I dont have a scope to test, but kinda looks like its tx'ing...   but not sure

 

Anything else I should check ?

Many Thanks
craig
2M0JUM



Re: No TX

Conor Farrell
 

It would definitely be worth checking the solder joints on your kit. The coils, for example, caused me issues with TX when I first built the kit, due to the presence of the enamel on the wire: I simply wasn't forming a good joint. So, I resoldered these to ensure the enamel boiled off and, lo and behold, I was making contacts immediately.

Conor


On Wed 30 Jun 2021, 19:01 craig.jump via groups.io, <craig.jump=btinternet.com@groups.io> wrote:
Timing is fine as I use the same PC with dimension on my 7300..

No reports showing on PSK Reporter..   

Also using same end fed antenna as my 7300..  so I know the antenna is good

Can only assume power is that low its not getting out due to my noisy location..


Re: No TX

Carl Weiberg
 

I had no timing issues running  with Dimension 4. My antenna had no issues. I get to Australia, Antarctica, Africa, and Europe with 200 mw on my Zack WSPR. Understand FT8 is much different than WSPR, but the D4D rigs simply in my case did not work well. I had better results running my SG-2020 on a watt with FT8. Bottom line, if you are pleased with the performance, that’s what matters. As for me, I moved on, sending CQ’s into a black hole was not fun.

 iPad Mahalo


On Jun 30, 2021, at 12:34 PM, tem494@... wrote:

I also built both the 20 and 40 meter versions and yes the 20 meter version has a lower output probably less then a half watt I was able to work Europe and Africa. The little rig got me started in FT8 having since moved up to different rigs. 
With a good antenna and a good timing syncing program good results are achievable.

73’s

On Wednesday, June 30, 2021, Carl Weiberg via groups.io <carlweiberg=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I build both the D4D 20 and 40 meter rigs. Both did not work well at all. The 20 meter tx had 200 mw output. Pretty useless in my opinion. The 40 worked a couple times then replaced relay and transistors. I could not fix it. I decided to give up on the rigs. Fun to build but not functional on TX. RX was ok.

73’s

 iPad Mahalo


On Jun 30, 2021, at 10:33 AM, craig.jump via groups.io <craig.jump=btinternet.com@groups.io> wrote:



I have just built  D4D 20m kit..

Receiving well, but just not getting any replies.. 

Relay clicks ok..     have changed the output transistor. (BD139). and voltages on it on TX are as follows..

B - 0.892v
C - 11.82v
E - 0.291v

I dont have a scope to test, but kinda looks like its tx'ing...   but not sure

 

Anything else I should check ?

Many Thanks
craig
2M0JUM


--
CW


--
CW


Re: No TX

craig.jump@...
 

Timing is fine as I use the same PC with dimension on my 7300..

No reports showing on PSK Reporter..   

Also using same end fed antenna as my 7300..  so I know the antenna is good

Can only assume power is that low its not getting out due to my noisy location..


Re: No TX

tem494@...
 

I also built both the 20 and 40 meter versions and yes the 20 meter version has a lower output probably less then a half watt I was able to work Europe and Africa. The little rig got me started in FT8 having since moved up to different rigs. 
With a good antenna and a good timing syncing program good results are achievable.

73’s


On Wednesday, June 30, 2021, Carl Weiberg via groups.io <carlweiberg=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I build both the D4D 20 and 40 meter rigs. Both did not work well at all. The 20 meter tx had 200 mw output. Pretty useless in my opinion. The 40 worked a couple times then replaced relay and transistors. I could not fix it. I decided to give up on the rigs. Fun to build but not functional on TX. RX was ok.

73’s

 iPad Mahalo


On Jun 30, 2021, at 10:33 AM, craig.jump via groups.io <craig.jump=btinternet.com@groups.io> wrote:



I have just built  D4D 20m kit..

Receiving well, but just not getting any replies.. 

Relay clicks ok..     have changed the output transistor. (BD139). and voltages on it on TX are as follows..

B - 0.892v
C - 11.82v
E - 0.291v

I dont have a scope to test, but kinda looks like its tx'ing...   but not sure

 

Anything else I should check ?

Many Thanks
craig
2M0JUM


--
CW


Re: No TX

Carl Weiberg
 

I build both the D4D 20 and 40 meter rigs. Both did not work well at all. The 20 meter tx had 200 mw output. Pretty useless in my opinion. The 40 worked a couple times then replaced relay and transistors. I could not fix it. I decided to give up on the rigs. Fun to build but not functional on TX. RX was ok.

73’s

 iPad Mahalo


On Jun 30, 2021, at 10:33 AM, craig.jump via groups.io <craig.jump@...> wrote:



I have just built  D4D 20m kit..

Receiving well, but just not getting any replies.. 

Relay clicks ok..     have changed the output transistor. (BD139). and voltages on it on TX are as follows..

B - 0.892v
C - 11.82v
E - 0.291v

I dont have a scope to test, but kinda looks like its tx'ing...   but not sure

 

Anything else I should check ?

Many Thanks
craig
2M0JUM


--
CW


Re: No TX

Nigel Young ZL1NAY
 

Check ur timing, swap modes i.e the earlier or later part of the transmission. Don't forget FT8 is based on timing. There are little software widgets that will update your time on the PC a bit more frequently than windows would like. You really need this to sync the conversation. I'm sure your getting out but at the wrong time. You really can't rely on the PC clock to manage it. It needs to be internet or GPS based to work

Kia Kaha

On Thu, Jul 1, 2021, 3:33 AM craig.jump via groups.io <craig.jump=btinternet.com@groups.io> wrote:

I have just built  D4D 20m kit..

Receiving well, but just not getting any replies.. 

Relay clicks ok..     have changed the output transistor. (BD139). and voltages on it on TX are as follows..

B - 0.892v
C - 11.82v
E - 0.291v

I dont have a scope to test, but kinda looks like its tx'ing...   but not sure

 

Anything else I should check ?

Many Thanks
craig
2M0JUM

1 - 20 of 3574