Sharpie bubbles are an indication the board was not clean, I found scrubbing with
power cleanser (comet) until it was bright solved that.
There are several photo transfer. The one I used required a special very
yellow looking florescent tube that was fairly easy to get in 12/24/36 inch
lengths. The material could be put on from a can in low light (red light
was often used). To get it even on the board, the board was mounted
in a spinner in a box and a bit was poured in the center and the board
spun to get it to the edges and even. Worked well. The resist was only
require to be opaque to visible light so clear plastic with drafting tape or
any tape and hand laid or even done with a paint brush and black enamel
(especially for larger areas).
For front panels that wanted a distinctive look resist on aluminum then
etch it. There are several materials that work, ferric chloride was good.
The copier/toner was terrible but it helped me once to get something
however poor. Making the positives for the earlier photo method on
a copier worked well.
As as common trick for VHF G10/GR4 board bare is easy to get
and apply copper adhesive backed tape. An Xacto knife to get
the desired pattern. If your willing to pay up to 12 inch wide can
he had (not cheap!). Used that to develop antenna prototypes
on various material (plastics, and even plywood. I keep .25",
.5", 1" and 2" wide rolls for that. Amazon as its common for arts
and crafts. I've used that to 2ghz with acceptable results.
Note the .25" and .5" are really useful for computer hardware to do
DC buses that have low inductance.