Chris Murphy <lists@...>
Short ofYou can use selective color, or replace color to fix these areas.
Alternatively, the camera can be profiled. The resulting profile for the
digital camera isn't just based on curves, but is actually a table. This
table is capable of allowing conversions from cameraRGB to some other
space (either Adobe RGB or your preferred CMYK space) with color-in-color
moves similar to what selective color uses. That is magenta would be
reduced in skin tones and increased in wood (or whatever the issue is
with your specific digital camera).
The results I've had with Kodak Input Profile Builder are quite good, and
I think Andrew has had very good results with Gretag Macbeth's solution
for making digital camera profiles. While you can use a regular Color
Checker for making a good profile, I've seen anywhere from 5% to 30%
improvements (camera dependent) using the new Color Checker DC which was
specifically designed for profiling digital cameras.
Now what this is going to do is balance the image and get it as close to
the original scene as possible. It's not going to fix bad exposures, and
won't do color correction, sharpening or image enhancement. It'll just
significantly reduce the amount of "hassle color correction" that you use
to solve weird camera behavior problems mentioned as examples in two
previous posts on this subject.
I understand Pictographics has a new product called inCamera
Professional. I haven't had a chance to use it yet. Praxisoft also has a
digital camera product as well. Andrew?