Mike, nice adaption of the cutter grinder! How much travel do you get from the table?

Ralph

On Sun, Jul 25, 2021 at 3:21 PM Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

Here are the pics showing how I adapted a tool and cutter grinder to a surface grinder. I would like to replace the x handle with something better than what you see, but it actually works well enough that I have not worried about it too much. Ideally, an auto-feed would be desirable because it gets a little boring doing it manually. I have no drawings or plans. It was a trial and error job. I had to make an adapter to move the motor forward about 4" to reach across the table with a straight wheel. Added shields, mag chuck, and cooling. The round column lacks rigidity so you have to take it easy.

The spindle will hold a 1 1/2" ID wheel, so I am using an 8" x 1/2" x 1 1/2". That size easily clears the bottom of the motor and is relatively easy to find in various grits. A 7" or smaller wheel would work, but you would potentially run into motor clearance issues that might limit y motion. I would not recommend a thicker wheel because the motor is not that powerful. Even with a 1/2" thick wheel, .002" is about max to avoid stalling, but .001 works much better.

On 7/24/2021 11:25 PM, Mike Poore via groups.io wrote:

Here is a pic from the manual to illustrate the original configuration. I will post the changes I made tomorrow. You might be able to guess from this pic. No changes are permanent, but it would take a while to revert to original. I save all of my dull cutting tools, so maybe one day I will put it back and sharpen everything at once.

On 7/24/2021 11:07 PM, Bill in OKC too via groups.io wrote:

If you ever find yourself too bored, and can't  find anything else to do, I'd be interested in seeing photos of your grinder. One of many projects I plan on doing is a Bonelle tool & cutter, which is a Quorn variant made from bar stock instead of castings. Seeing how your t&c ginder was adapted to surface grinding might give me some more ideas.

I'm  having trouble fitting in all the machines I already have, and getting multiple uses out of a machine would be nice. 

Bill in OKC 

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)

On Saturday, July 24, 2021, 09:24:28 PM CDT, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

Thanks, Bill. My "surface grinder" is actually an old Taiwanese bench top tool and cutter grinder that I reconfigured for surface grinding. It isn't beefy enough, so it leaves a pattern. I could probably do better, but it grinds to within 5 tenths as is with the pattern. Mirror finishes can be obtained with a few passes over SiC sandpaper on an old surface plate. The bottom line is it fits in my garage and exceeds 99% of my tolerances.

On 7/24/2021 9:57 PM, Bill in OKC too via groups.io wrote:

Personally, I think it looks great, and I'd LOVE to have a surface grinder. Even if it left zebra stripes! ;)

If you get tired of that, you could always bead blast it or something similar. And if you don't, you don't!

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)

On Saturday, July 24, 2021, 08:38:16 PM CDT, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

Thanks for the input everyone. I decided make my own MF compatible version of M1-116B, which normally requires a slightly longer screw (or extension). Since I am making it out of steel rather than zamak, my version is 1/4" thick allowing the original screw to be used as is. I still need to scribe a line for the dial and install the bushing. Clausing does not have the bushings, but they are easily recreated with cut down local hardware store bushings. If you make one for yourself, make sure you ream the bushing hole to get a press fit. The addition of this part will prevent the MF version from crashing in auto feed mode as Ray explained and was apparently used on later models.

For the haters out there, I know the finish has zebra stripes. That has to do with my surface grinder and I like the look, so you will not hurt my feelings pointing it out.

All the videos I've watched recently, and the stuff I learned in my class say that .0005 is a pretty big bite for a surface grinder. Somewhere in the .0001" to .0002" is supposedly more suited to machines like the 6x18s they have at my school. I'm not sure the Quorn/Bonelle would work like that, but IF I ever get mine going, I may find out. I have seen the 6x12 models for around $500 used, a couple of times, but not when I had $500 to spare. Pretty much the story of my life, there! ;)

I picked up an ER25 CNC tool holder from Amazon a week or so ago, as a possible addition to the planned Bonelle. I've got a set of the rods, and a couple of the smaller castings a friend had a surplus off a few years ago, too. Got my big drill press moved a couple of days ago, been working on organization of the house and shop since. Got way too many projects. Started building the stand for my 128lb London-pattern anvil today. It's been dry out for a bit over a week, thought I should get the lumber cut while it's as close to dry as I'm likely to see. Getting the stand that anvil is currently occupying might give me a place for the Bonelle. Though it's gotten too hot outside. Weather report says it's only 92, and 40% humidity, but my car thermometer says it's 98 already. Even in the shade of my back yard, it's too hot and humid to be out there anymore.

Thanks a bunch for the photos. I'll be looking for something like that, too. Never can tell what will turn up between Craigslist, ebay, and the local auctions. Was reading, I think in TMBR, that one guy built a small hand-fed surface grinder with a small surface plate, a gantry sort of thing for the spindle, and a motor and small grinding wheel, and did 123 blocks and that sort of thing pushing the parts through the grinder by hand, without a vise at all. Guy was a wizard old tool and die maker, and maybe if I live for another hundred years or so that might become true of me, but not just yet...

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)

On Sunday, July 25, 2021, 02:21:32 PM CDT, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

Here are the pics showing how I adapted a tool and cutter grinder to a surface grinder. I would like to replace the x handle with something better than what you see, but it actually works well enough that I have not worried about it too much. Ideally, an auto-feed would be desirable because it gets a little boring doing it manually. I have no drawings or plans. It was a trial and error job. I had to make an adapter to move the motor forward about 4" to reach across the table with a straight wheel. Added shields, mag chuck, and cooling. The round column lacks rigidity so you have to take it easy.

The spindle will hold a 1 1/2" ID wheel, so I am using an 8" x 1/2" x 1 1/2". That size easily clears the bottom of the motor and is relatively easy to find in various grits. A 7" or smaller wheel would work, but you would potentially run into motor clearance issues that might limit y motion. I would not recommend a thicker wheel because the motor is not that powerful. Even with a 1/2" thick wheel, .002" is about max to avoid stalling, but .001 works much better.

On 7/24/2021 11:25 PM, Mike Poore via groups.io wrote:

Here is a pic from the manual to illustrate the original configuration. I will post the changes I made tomorrow. You might be able to guess from this pic. No changes are permanent, but it would take a while to revert to original. I save all of my dull cutting tools, so maybe one day I will put it back and sharpen everything at once.

On 7/24/2021 11:07 PM, Bill in OKC too via groups.io wrote:

If you ever find yourself too bored, and can't  find anything else to do, I'd be interested in seeing photos of your grinder. One of many projects I plan on doing is a Bonelle tool & cutter, which is a Quorn variant made from bar stock instead of castings. Seeing how your t&c ginder was adapted to surface grinding might give me some more ideas.

I'm  having trouble fitting in all the machines I already have, and getting multiple uses out of a machine would be nice. 

Bill in OKC 

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)

On Saturday, July 24, 2021, 09:24:28 PM CDT, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

Thanks, Bill. My "surface grinder" is actually an old Taiwanese bench top tool and cutter grinder that I reconfigured for surface grinding. It isn't beefy enough, so it leaves a pattern. I could probably do better, but it grinds to within 5 tenths as is with the pattern. Mirror finishes can be obtained with a few passes over SiC sandpaper on an old surface plate. The bottom line is it fits in my garage and exceeds 99% of my tolerances.

On 7/24/2021 9:57 PM, Bill in OKC too via groups.io wrote:

Personally, I think it looks great, and I'd LOVE to have a surface grinder. Even if it left zebra stripes! ;)

If you get tired of that, you could always bead blast it or something similar. And if you don't, you don't!

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)

On Saturday, July 24, 2021, 08:38:16 PM CDT, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

Thanks for the input everyone. I decided make my own MF compatible version of M1-116B, which normally requires a slightly longer screw (or extension). Since I am making it out of steel rather than zamak, my version is 1/4" thick allowing the original screw to be used as is. I still need to scribe a line for the dial and install the bushing. Clausing does not have the bushings, but they are easily recreated with cut down local hardware store bushings. If you make one for yourself, make sure you ream the bushing hole to get a press fit. The addition of this part will prevent the MF version from crashing in auto feed mode as Ray explained and was apparently used on later models.

For the haters out there, I know the finish has zebra stripes. That has to do with my surface grinder and I like the look, so you will not hurt my feelings pointing it out.

On Jul 25, 2021, at 4:33 PM, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:



All the videos I've watched recently, and the stuff I learned in my class say that .0005 is a pretty big bite for a surface grinder. Somewhere in the .0001" to .0002" is supposedly more suited to machines like the 6x18s they have at my school. I'm not sure the Quorn/Bonelle would work like that, but IF I ever get mine going, I may find out. I have seen the 6x12 models for around $500 used, a couple of times, but not when I had $500 to spare. Pretty much the story of my life, there! ;)

I picked up an ER25 CNC tool holder from Amazon a week or so ago, as a possible addition to the planned Bonelle. I've got a set of the rods, and a couple of the smaller castings a friend had a surplus off a few years ago, too. Got my big drill press moved a couple of days ago, been working on organization of the house and shop since. Got way too many projects. Started building the stand for my 128lb London-pattern anvil today. It's been dry out for a bit over a week, thought I should get the lumber cut while it's as close to dry as I'm likely to see. Getting the stand that anvil is currently occupying might give me a place for the Bonelle. Though it's gotten too hot outside. Weather report says it's only 92, and 40% humidity, but my car thermometer says it's 98 already. Even in the shade of my back yard, it's too hot and humid to be out there anymore.

Thanks a bunch for the photos. I'll be looking for something like that, too. Never can tell what will turn up between Craigslist, ebay, and the local auctions. Was reading, I think in TMBR, that one guy built a small hand-fed surface grinder with a small surface plate, a gantry sort of thing for the spindle, and a motor and small grinding wheel, and did 123 blocks and that sort of thing pushing the parts through the grinder by hand, without a vise at all. Guy was a wizard old tool and die maker, and maybe if I live for another hundred years or so that might become true of me, but not just yet...

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)

On Sunday, July 25, 2021, 02:21:32 PM CDT, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

Here are the pics showing how I adapted a tool and cutter grinder to a surface grinder. I would like to replace the x handle with something better than what you see, but it actually works well enough that I have not worried about it too much. Ideally, an auto-feed would be desirable because it gets a little boring doing it manually. I have no drawings or plans. It was a trial and error job. I had to make an adapter to move the motor forward about 4" to reach across the table with a straight wheel. Added shields, mag chuck, and cooling. The round column lacks rigidity so you have to take it easy.

The spindle will hold a 1 1/2" ID wheel, so I am using an 8" x 1/2" x 1 1/2". That size easily clears the bottom of the motor and is relatively easy to find in various grits. A 7" or smaller wheel would work, but you would potentially run into motor clearance issues that might limit y motion. I would not recommend a thicker wheel because the motor is not that powerful. Even with a 1/2" thick wheel, .002" is about max to avoid stalling, but .001 works much better.

<nkobgbpmncpgibdf.png>

<conklmlpbbijkolk.png>

On 7/24/2021 11:25 PM, Mike Poore via groups.io wrote:

Here is a pic from the manual to illustrate the original configuration. I will post the changes I made tomorrow. You might be able to guess from this pic. No changes are permanent, but it would take a while to revert to original. I save all of my dull cutting tools, so maybe one day I will put it back and sharpen everything at once.

<gbpojagoeboijenj.png>

On 7/24/2021 11:07 PM, Bill in OKC too via groups.io wrote:

If you ever find yourself too bored, and can't  find anything else to do, I'd be interested in seeing photos of your grinder. One of many projects I plan on doing is a Bonelle tool & cutter, which is a Quorn variant made from bar stock instead of castings. Seeing how your t&c ginder was adapted to surface grinding might give me some more ideas.

I'm  having trouble fitting in all the machines I already have, and getting multiple uses out of a machine would be nice. 

Bill in OKC 

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)

On Saturday, July 24, 2021, 09:24:28 PM CDT, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

Thanks, Bill. My "surface grinder" is actually an old Taiwanese bench top tool and cutter grinder that I reconfigured for surface grinding. It isn't beefy enough, so it leaves a pattern. I could probably do better, but it grinds to within 5 tenths as is with the pattern. Mirror finishes can be obtained with a few passes over SiC sandpaper on an old surface plate. The bottom line is it fits in my garage and exceeds 99% of my tolerances.

On 7/24/2021 9:57 PM, Bill in OKC too via groups.io wrote:

Personally, I think it looks great, and I'd LOVE to have a surface grinder. Even if it left zebra stripes! ;)

If you get tired of that, you could always bead blast it or something similar. And if you don't, you don't!

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)

On Saturday, July 24, 2021, 08:38:16 PM CDT, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

Thanks for the input everyone. I decided make my own MF compatible version of M1-116B, which normally requires a slightly longer screw (or extension). Since I am making it out of steel rather than zamak, my version is 1/4" thick allowing the original screw to be used as is. I still need to scribe a line for the dial and install the bushing. Clausing does not have the bushings, but they are easily recreated with cut down local hardware store bushings. If you make one for yourself, make sure you ream the bushing hole to get a press fit. The addition of this part will prevent the MF version from crashing in auto feed mode as Ray explained and was apparently used on later models.

For the haters out there, I know the finish has zebra stripes. That has to do with my surface grinder and I like the look, so you will not hurt my feelings pointing it out.

<gbpojagoeboijenj.png>

<conklmlpbbijkolk.png>

<nkobgbpmncpgibdf.png>

On Jul 25, 2021, at 4:33 PM, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:



All the videos I've watched recently, and the stuff I learned in my class say that .0005 is a pretty big bite for a surface grinder. Somewhere in the .0001" to .0002" is supposedly more suited to machines like the 6x18s they have at my school. I'm not sure the Quorn/Bonelle would work like that, but IF I ever get mine going, I may find out. I have seen the 6x12 models for around $500 used, a couple of times, but not when I had $500 to spare. Pretty much the story of my life, there! ;)

I picked up an ER25 CNC tool holder from Amazon a week or so ago, as a possible addition to the planned Bonelle. I've got a set of the rods, and a couple of the smaller castings a friend had a surplus off a few years ago, too. Got my big drill press moved a couple of days ago, been working on organization of the house and shop since. Got way too many projects. Started building the stand for my 128lb London-pattern anvil today. It's been dry out for a bit over a week, thought I should get the lumber cut while it's as close to dry as I'm likely to see. Getting the stand that anvil is currently occupying might give me a place for the Bonelle. Though it's gotten too hot outside. Weather report says it's only 92, and 40% humidity, but my car thermometer says it's 98 already. Even in the shade of my back yard, it's too hot and humid to be out there anymore.

Thanks a bunch for the photos. I'll be looking for something like that, too. Never can tell what will turn up between Craigslist, ebay, and the local auctions. Was reading, I think in TMBR, that one guy built a small hand-fed surface grinder with a small surface plate, a gantry sort of thing for the spindle, and a motor and small grinding wheel, and did 123 blocks and that sort of thing pushing the parts through the grinder by hand, without a vise at all. Guy was a wizard old tool and die maker, and maybe if I live for another hundred years or so that might become true of me, but not just yet...

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)

On Sunday, July 25, 2021, 02:21:32 PM CDT, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

Here are the pics showing how I adapted a tool and cutter grinder to a surface grinder. I would like to replace the x handle with something better than what you see, but it actually works well enough that I have not worried about it too much. Ideally, an auto-feed would be desirable because it gets a little boring doing it manually. I have no drawings or plans. It was a trial and error job. I had to make an adapter to move the motor forward about 4" to reach across the table with a straight wheel. Added shields, mag chuck, and cooling. The round column lacks rigidity so you have to take it easy.

The spindle will hold a 1 1/2" ID wheel, so I am using an 8" x 1/2" x 1 1/2". That size easily clears the bottom of the motor and is relatively easy to find in various grits. A 7" or smaller wheel would work, but you would potentially run into motor clearance issues that might limit y motion. I would not recommend a thicker wheel because the motor is not that powerful. Even with a 1/2" thick wheel, .002" is about max to avoid stalling, but .001 works much better.

<nkobgbpmncpgibdf.png>

<conklmlpbbijkolk.png>

On 7/24/2021 11:25 PM, Mike Poore via groups.io wrote:

Here is a pic from the manual to illustrate the original configuration. I will post the changes I made tomorrow. You might be able to guess from this pic. No changes are permanent, but it would take a while to revert to original. I save all of my dull cutting tools, so maybe one day I will put it back and sharpen everything at once.

<gbpojagoeboijenj.png>

On 7/24/2021 11:07 PM, Bill in OKC too via groups.io wrote:

If you ever find yourself too bored, and can't  find anything else to do, I'd be interested in seeing photos of your grinder. One of many projects I plan on doing is a Bonelle tool & cutter, which is a Quorn variant made from bar stock instead of castings. Seeing how your t&c ginder was adapted to surface grinding might give me some more ideas.

I'm  having trouble fitting in all the machines I already have, and getting multiple uses out of a machine would be nice. 

Bill in OKC 

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)

On Saturday, July 24, 2021, 09:24:28 PM CDT, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

Thanks, Bill. My "surface grinder" is actually an old Taiwanese bench top tool and cutter grinder that I reconfigured for surface grinding. It isn't beefy enough, so it leaves a pattern. I could probably do better, but it grinds to within 5 tenths as is with the pattern. Mirror finishes can be obtained with a few passes over SiC sandpaper on an old surface plate. The bottom line is it fits in my garage and exceeds 99% of my tolerances.

On 7/24/2021 9:57 PM, Bill in OKC too via groups.io wrote:

Personally, I think it looks great, and I'd LOVE to have a surface grinder. Even if it left zebra stripes! ;)

If you get tired of that, you could always bead blast it or something similar. And if you don't, you don't!

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)

On Saturday, July 24, 2021, 08:38:16 PM CDT, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

Thanks for the input everyone. I decided make my own MF compatible version of M1-116B, which normally requires a slightly longer screw (or extension). Since I am making it out of steel rather than zamak, my version is 1/4" thick allowing the original screw to be used as is. I still need to scribe a line for the dial and install the bushing. Clausing does not have the bushings, but they are easily recreated with cut down local hardware store bushings. If you make one for yourself, make sure you ream the bushing hole to get a press fit. The addition of this part will prevent the MF version from crashing in auto feed mode as Ray explained and was apparently used on later models.

For the haters out there, I know the finish has zebra stripes. That has to do with my surface grinder and I like the look, so you will not hurt my feelings pointing it out.

<gbpojagoeboijenj.png>

<conklmlpbbijkolk.png>

<nkobgbpmncpgibdf.png>

Robert,

Thank you for the info. My MF mill had a M1-116A and a homemade plate. I could not find a parts diagram for the MF. Using the drawings for the M1-116(A-C) was the way I used to determine the correct parts used on the MF as each drawing includes a list of applicable models. The M1-116A uses a 1/2" ID bushing, which fits on the right end of the table. I did not care for the quality of the plate made by a previous owner, so I decided to make my own. While I was at it, I added the tab found on the M1-116B to install a bolt that will force the auto feed to stop if the table moves to the extreme right end. Essentially, I made a M1-116 with the M1-116B tab.

I did not find MMB-5 Revision 9 in the downloads, but I did find another manual that shows a single page parts diagram that is a bit difficult to read compared to the multiple page parts breakdowns of various components used in other manuals. I think this is what you referenced as it included a list of parts that are MF specific.

Mike

Mike, et al,

 

First, many\of the drawings for parts on the Atlas built lathes, shapers  and mills are in Files as PDF’s and available for download.  If I forgot to upload some of them, let me know. 

 

The original three mill models made by Atlas were the M1(that is a numeral one, not a capital “eye”), MF and MH.  The MH does not have a cross feed screw so the following does not apply.  The M1, M1A, MF and MFA used one M1-116 and one M1-116A and the appropriate bushings M1-90 and M1-91.   (Why they did not call M1-116A instead  M1-117 I do not know, but they didn’t).  The M1B, M1C, MFB and MFC used one M1-116B and one M1-116C.  Or the M1B and M1C could use two M1-116C’s.

 

What was found installed in your mill I don’t actually know but that’s what should have been there.  In the Group’s Files section on the Groups,io web site, see MMB-5 Revision 9 (or current revision) for the Owner’s and Parts Manual for parts lists of all Mill models.  Note that the parts section is mostly in reverse order, starting with M1C, MFC and MHC plus the parts of the B models that are the same as the C, all as an exploded view or illustrated type parts list.  Then the A models followed by the base models as section view drawings plus mostly Alpha-numerical parts lists and ending with an exploded view page of what was different in the B models from the C models..  The front half of the manual contains the operating instructions, including lubrication instructions.

 

In Files you will also find similar manuals on all of the Atlas built  lathes (except nothing but the spindle drawing on the 101.07300) and shapers.  We don’t have nearly as much information on the shapers.  There is also a short section on the AA lathes and some other Atlas-built machines that we have accumulated over the last two decades.

 

Robert Downs

Co-Owner

 

From: atlas-craftsman@groups.io [mailto:atlas-craftsman@groups.io] On Behalf Of Mike Poore
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2021 21:07
To: atlas-craftsman@groups.io
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas HM X Screw Bushings

 

My recently purchased MF mill had excessive X play that I discovered was due to a strange combination of a homemade thrust plate and cobbled bushings. It does not seem possible for what I have to ever work properly, so I am going to try to get it back to as close to stock as possible.

The Atlas thrust plate I have is a M1-116A with a bushing installed. The homemade plate has a 1/2" hole with no bushing and is 1/4" thick. The parts list that I found shows M1-116B and M1-116C thrust plates, but suspect the parts list is for a later mill. The M1-116B has a 5/16" threaded boss below and to the right of the lead screw hole. I do not see a use for that on my mill, so I am questioning if the M1-116B is the right part for my mill.

One of my issues is figuring out what exactly are the thrust surfaces to manage backlash. Is it the inside of the thrust plates, outside of the thrust plates, or a combination? I am guessing the screw does not ride against the bushing for backlash control, which would mean that the nuts on the screw are tightened from each end and the thrust surfaces are on the outside of the thrust plates. Can anyone confirm the proper setup of the X screw?

I emailed Clausing for availability of the bushings or drawings. Either way I have a feeling I will have to do a little finessing with the homemade plate or end up making a new one.