Cyanotype/Cuprotype


Jim Patterson,
 

Hi All,
Here is a combo Cyanotype/Cuprotype I did a few years ago at Penland School of Craft.
Jim


Niranjan Patel
 

That is very nice, Jim.  If you can do a green layer independently, you can make a full color print. 

Can you give us some details on the process?

:Niranjan.


Jim Patterson,
 

Hi Niranjan,
Thanks for the interest.  I posted my Cuprotype process several years ago on this list.  You can get details at my website:  www.darkroomdoc.com.

The print is from a digital camera, negative filtered in Photoshop with a red/orange filter and a blue/green filter for the 2 colors, sort of like the old 2 color Technicolor.  Printed in traditional Cyanotype first, then Cuprotype last.  Cuprotype is Hatchett’s Brown (Copper II Ferrocyanide).  This print is 8 yrs old and both pigments seem quite stable.

Jim


On May 30, 2021, at 11:19 AM, Niranjan Patel via groups.io <nirpat89@...> wrote:

That is very nice, Jim.  If you can do a green layer independently, you can make a full color print. 

Can you give us some details on the process?

:Niranjan.


Niranjan Patel
 

Thanks for some more "color."

Nice website...

:Niranjan.


Bruce McCaughey
 

Hi Niranjan
I did some cuprotype a few years ago but got frustrated because the print would get a blue stain after a few days to a week. The actual brown tone was great and I have been thinking about trying again so I would love to see how you do. I tried several ways to clear the blue but nothing seemed to work for me.

Bruce


Niranjan Patel
 

Hi, Bruce:

I am afraid a cuprotype is probably not in the cards for me imminently but when and if I try it, I will be sure to share here. 

Blue staining is probably something to do with not being able to clean out the residual irons, I am guessing but Jim would be the one to ask.

:Niranjan.


Alberto Novo
 

Did you try a weak ammonia bath?
It clears the blue and enhances the red (which I prefer to the original brown)
Don't insist too long otherwise it will clear also the red image. 

Alberto 

(copper print from curved plane pinhole camera) 

 

> Hi Niranjan
> I did some cuprotype a few years ago but got frustrated because the print would get a blue stain after a few days to a week. The actual brown tone was great and I have been thinking about trying again so I would love to see how you do. I tried several ways to clear the blue but nothing seemed to work for me.
>
> Bruce
>
>
>
>
>
>


Jim Patterson,
 

Hi All, 
I have several Cuprotypes several years old with no blue stains.
If any iron is left in the paper, a Cyanotype blue stain will result.  After developing in the thiocyanate/citric acid solution, wash well in at least 3 trays of citric acid water (1/2 tsp/liter) to remove all residual iron.  Then tone with the potassium Ferricyanide.  You can skip the Ferricyanide toner and use the Selenium/Sulfide toner at this point for a dark brown.

If printing a Cyanotype/Cuprotype combo, print the Cyanotype first to avoid changing the Cuprotype to a Cyanotype.

You can selectively change parts of a Cuprotype to a Cyanotype by using a small brush with Ferric Ammonium Sulfate solution.
Jim




On Jun 1, 2021, at 7:22 AM, Niranjan Patel via groups.io <nirpat89@...> wrote:

Hi, Bruce:

I am afraid a cuprotype is probably not in the cards for me imminently but when and if I try it, I will be sure to share here. 

Blue staining is probably something to do with not being able to clean out the residual irons, I am guessing but Jim would be the one to ask.

:Niranjan.


Niranjan Patel
 

Hi, Jim:  When you say Se/S toning, does it have to be both selenium and sulfide?  Can you use the selenium toner or a polysulfide toner by themselves?

:Niranjan


Bruce McCaughey
 

Hi Jim
As I recall I  was trying to wash it out with long washes that did not work. I will need to try with citric acid. I did enjoy results so I will have have to revisit the process. 
Thanks
Bruce


On Jun 1, 2021, at 6:01 AM, Jim Patterson, <jimbobnola@...> wrote:

Hi All, 
I have several Cuprotypes several years old with no blue stains.
If any iron is left in the paper, a Cyanotype blue stain will result.  After developing in the thiocyanate/citric acid solution, wash well in at least 3 trays of citric acid water (1/2 tsp/liter) to remove all residual iron.  Then tone with the potassium Ferricyanide.  You can skip the Ferricyanide toner and use the Selenium/Sulfide toner at this point for a dark brown.

If printing a Cyanotype/Cuprotype combo, print the Cyanotype first to avoid changing the Cuprotype to a Cyanotype.

You can selectively change parts of a Cuprotype to a Cyanotype by using a small brush with Ferric Ammonium Sulfate solution.
Jim




On Jun 1, 2021, at 7:22 AM, Niranjan Patel via groups.io <nirpat89@...> wrote:

Hi, Bruce:

I am afraid a cuprotype is probably not in the cards for me imminently but when and if I try it, I will be sure to share here. 

Blue staining is probably something to do with not being able to clean out the residual irons, I am guessing but Jim would be the one to ask.

:Niranjan.


Jim Patterson,
 

Hi Niranjan,
The Se/S toner is my favorite.  It is Selenium powder dissolved in Sodium Sulfide solution.  It is listed in Anchel’s Darkroom Cookbook, 3rd Ed, p 296.  I dilute 1:20 for use.  Low odor.

Selenium powder dissolved in sodium sulfite works.  Selenium powder is very toxic by inhalation.  CAUTION.

2 % Sodium Sulfide solution works.
2% Liver of Sulfur (sodium polysulfide) works.
Both of these offgas Hydrogen Sulfide (toxic).

Thiourea sulfide toner does NOT work.
Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner does NOT work.

Some old developers (0.25% solution) bind to the Copper Ferrocyanide and air oxidize to a final color:
Amidol = purple brown
Rodinal = sepia
PPD + Catechol 1:2 = black.

Many of these are toxic.  Fume hood, outdoor ventilation, etc.  Don’t try these in the kitchen or bathroom.
Jim


On Jun 1, 2021, at 11:24 AM, Bruce McCaughey <steelbar@...> wrote:

Hi Jim
As I recall I  was trying to wash it out with long washes that did not work. I will need to try with citric acid. I did enjoy results so I will have have to revisit the process. 
Thanks
Bruce


On Jun 1, 2021, at 6:01 AM, Jim Patterson, <jimbobnola@...> wrote:

Hi All, 
I have several Cuprotypes several years old with no blue stains.
If any iron is left in the paper, a Cyanotype blue stain will result.  After developing in the thiocyanate/citric acid solution, wash well in at least 3 trays of citric acid water (1/2 tsp/liter) to remove all residual iron.  Then tone with the potassium Ferricyanide.  You can skip the Ferricyanide toner and use the Selenium/Sulfide toner at this point for a dark brown.

If printing a Cyanotype/Cuprotype combo, print the Cyanotype first to avoid changing the Cuprotype to a Cyanotype.

You can selectively change parts of a Cuprotype to a Cyanotype by using a small brush with Ferric Ammonium Sulfate solution.
Jim




On Jun 1, 2021, at 7:22 AM, Niranjan Patel via groups.io <nirpat89@...> wrote:

Hi, Bruce:

I am afraid a cuprotype is probably not in the cards for me imminently but when and if I try it, I will be sure to share here. 

Blue staining is probably something to do with not being able to clean out the residual irons, I am guessing but Jim would be the one to ask.

:Niranjan.