Date   
Re: Sound Bars: Can I Really Get A Good-Sounding One Without Spending Way over A Hundred Dollars?

pete gurney
 

hi Tom,

the Soundcore Infini Pro soundbar i gave the link for on amazon has
built in sub woofer, from the description i think it has two 3 inch
sub woofers.
the impressive thing about this one is that i haven't seen any other soundbar at this price that has dolby atmos along with HDMI ARC, blutooth 5.0 and the ability to be controlled by an Iphone app.
personally after having a soundbar that is capable of dolby atmos for 8 months now i wouldn't want to have a soundbar without it again.

pete.

--
pete gurney <pete@...>

Re: Sound Bars: Can I Really Get A Good-Sounding One Without Spending Way over A Hundred Dollars?

Tom Kaufman
 

Hello Pete and list: Thanks for the info; since the TV I'd be hooking the
sound bar up to is a Sony, that one model you described might work the best
with that TV; the other thing is...I need something that isn't too
complicated for me to operate! Thinking back, the sound bar that the tech
from Dish Network brought in didn't seem to have any ways of changing the
tone; at least he didn't offer that there was any way of making it sound any
better! I got the idea that when he plugged it in, it kind of "was what it
was" and that's all there was! Perhaps I should have inquired more as to if
there were any buttons I needed to know about, although it seems to me that
if there had been, he would have shown these to me! Now these sound bars
that you're talking about: are the sub woofers built right into the ssound
bar itself? Or is it like you get the sound bar; then a bitg sub-woofer
that you set someplace, much like my speakers I have hooked to my computer?

Thanks,
Tom Kaufman

-----Original Message-----
From: all-audio@groups.io [mailto:all-audio@groups.io] On Behalf Of pete
gurney
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2019 4:41 AM
To: all-audio@groups.io
Subject: Re: [all-audio] Sound Bars: Can I Really Get A Good-Sounding One
Without Spending Way over A Hundred Dollars?

hi Tom,

in the price range your looking for it's worth taking a look at:

Soundcore Infini Pro Integrated 2.1 Channel Soundbar with Dolby Atmos and
Built-in Subwoofers, TV Surround Sound System with 4K HDR Pass-Through,
HDMI Arc, Bluetooth 5 Wireless Music Streaming:
https://www.amazon.com/Soundcore-Integrated-Subwoofers-Pass-Through-Bluetoot
h/dp/B07MXD513F/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=sony+ht-x8500&qid=1568962098&sr=8-1

it's regular price is $249.99 but from what i read there's sometimes a
voucher available for up to $50 which you can just tick the check box to
receive.

this soundbar has dolby atmos, 120w sound output, HDMI and HDMI
ARC,DIGITAL OPTICAL, AND BLUETOOTH 5.0 connectivity.
there's even a IOS app that you can use for controlling the soundbar.
and depending on wether you have any usable sight people reviewed saying
there are easy to see white lights on the soundbar that illuminate to
indicate which function you are controlling when making changes with the
remote control.
it's made by Anker.
hope this helps.

pete.

Re: Sound Bars: Can I Really Get A Good-Sounding One Without Spending Way over A Hundred Dollars?

pete gurney
 

hi Tom,

in the price range your looking for it's worth taking a look at:

Soundcore Infini Pro Integrated 2.1 Channel Soundbar with Dolby Atmos and Built-in Subwoofers, TV Surround Sound System with 4K HDR Pass-Through,
HDMI Arc, Bluetooth 5 Wireless Music Streaming:
https://www.amazon.com/Soundcore-Integrated-Subwoofers-Pass-Through-Bluetooth/dp/B07MXD513F/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=sony+ht-x8500&qid=1568962098&sr=8-1

it's regular price is $249.99 but from what i read there's sometimes a
voucher available for up to $50 which you can just tick the check box to
receive.

this soundbar has dolby atmos, 120w sound output, HDMI and HDMI
ARC,DIGITAL OPTICAL, AND BLUETOOTH 5.0 connectivity.
there's even a IOS app that you can use for controlling the soundbar.
and depending on wether you have any usable sight people reviewed saying
there are easy to see white lights on the soundbar that illuminate to
indicate which function you are controlling when making changes with the
remote control.
it's made by Anker.
hope this helps.

pete.

Join the GoldWave Audio Editor beta - TestFlight - Apple

Dane Trethowan <grtdane@...>
 

Now being Beta tested for IOS
https://testflight.apple.com/join/U79sV1RQ

Re: Sound Bars: Can I Really Get A Good-Sounding One Without Spending Way over A Hundred Dollars?

Dane Trethowan <grtdane@...>
 

Hi,
2 things I would suggest.
Firstly consider what you want in a soundbar as soundbars these days come in
all shapes and sizes with all manner of bells and whistles.
A $200 Soundbar can sound quite reasonable but do remember that you get what
you pay for so - if its good surround-sound you're looking for in a soundbar
- then you'll most likely be disappointed as $200 won't most likely won't
get you that kind of system, for that money you'll probably end up with a
2.1 channel stereo bar which might be good enough for you if you can get
something that sounds reasonable.
Then many soundbars have "add-ons" that you can add in the form of extra
speakers to enhance the effect of the bar, add surround-sound and so on so
my second suggestion is to do some research, hear as many soundbars as you
can if at all possible and take your time before making that final decision.
I have various Polk speakers here ahdn they're not too bad.
It very well might be that you have to add an additional sub-woofer to that
Soundbar you heard to enhance the bass.
Okay so once you've sorted out the sound you then have to sort out the
connectivity and - as Soundbars progress - the more the connectivity seems
to become more of a nightmare.
Many soundbar models these days connect to other speakers and components
such as Televisions wirelessly but the problem with that system is that a
Television or speaker from the same company who made the Soundbar has to be
used thus limiting your options and the versatility of your system.
Then Soundbars come with a limited range of connection ports, say 1 HDMI, 1
Digital input or - in a lot of cases - no connecting ports at all.
You're going to need at least 1 HDMI port and possibly a Digital Audio in
port for the Soundbar to connect to your Television.
I will be getting a Soundbar for my Den later on this year.
I've made my decision on the Denon Heosbar as it would fit in nicely to my
network, isn't too expensive - around $800 - and can be added to but that's
just me and Soundbars these days are made to fit all shapes and sizes, all
budgets etc.

-----Original Message-----
From: all-audio@groups.io <all-audio@groups.io> On Behalf Of Tom Kaufman
Sent: Friday, 20 September 2019 6:59 AM
To: all-audio@groups.io
Subject: [all-audio] Sound Bars: Can I Really Get A Good-Sounding One
Without Spending Way over A Hundred Dollars?

Hello to all: I've toyed with the idea with getting a sound bar for the TV
in my living room. Until this past weekend, I had never even seen one or
heard one! But last Saturday, I had some new Satellite equipment put in
from Dish Network. The tech told me that he had this sound bar along with
him that they sold; he said I could have it for $200; he even said he'd
bring it in and let me listen to it! After hearing him describing it to me,
I kind of was expecting that it would just blow me away! Well he brought it
in and hooked it up and then.when he turned it on, I thought , 'is that all
there is?" I was expecting to hear a nice big full sound with some fairly
deep base! He (the tech) explained that he liked "loud".well it was
louder.but to my ear, that was about all it was! Now to be fair, I was
sitting a little ways away from it, so I walked over to where he had it set
up (in front of the TV) it didn't sound all that bad, but for two hundred
bucks, I was expecting more! So I guess my question is, for two hundred
dollars, what kind of sound bar can I expect to find? This one was a Polk
(I hear they're supposed to be one of the best) now maybe it had some
adjustments to make it have more "highs" or more "base"".but he didn't
indicate this to me; it seemed like what I was hearing was exactly what it
was! So I passed! But am thinking that I ought to be able to get a pretty
decent sound bar for somewhere within the 100 to 3200 dollar range! I know
we have some people on here who know a lot more about these things than I
do; there are some who really know what sounds good and what doesn't! So
what brands should I be looking at and what brands do I need to stay away
from? BTW-and this surprised me: he told me to stay away from Viezeo! I
had been under the impression that Visio made good quality products; the TV
in the kitchen is a VidZeo! While it's okay 9just a 19-inch portable, it
does what I need it to do and has been in there since probably 2010 (mom had
gotten it to play while she was out there cooking supper or otherwise
working in the kitchen! So will be interested in what you all think are
good sound bars and what I should even be looking for in a sound bar!

Thanks,

Tom Kaufman

Sound Bars: Can I Really Get A Good-Sounding One Without Spending Way over A Hundred Dollars?

Tom Kaufman
 

Hello to all: I've toyed with the idea with getting a sound bar for the TV
in my living room. Until this past weekend, I had never even seen one or
heard one! But last Saturday, I had some new Satellite equipment put in
from Dish Network. The tech told me that he had this sound bar along with
him that they sold; he said I could have it for $200; he even said he'd
bring it in and let me listen to it! After hearing him describing it to me,
I kind of was expecting that it would just blow me away! Well he brought it
in and hooked it up and then.when he turned it on, I thought , 'is that all
there is?" I was expecting to hear a nice big full sound with some fairly
deep base! He (the tech) explained that he liked "loud".well it was
louder.but to my ear, that was about all it was! Now to be fair, I was
sitting a little ways away from it, so I walked over to where he had it set
up (in front of the TV) it didn't sound all that bad, but for two hundred
bucks, I was expecting more! So I guess my question is, for two hundred
dollars, what kind of sound bar can I expect to find? This one was a Polk
(I hear they're supposed to be one of the best) now maybe it had some
adjustments to make it have more "highs" or more "base"".but he didn't
indicate this to me; it seemed like what I was hearing was exactly what it
was! So I passed! But am thinking that I ought to be able to get a pretty
decent sound bar for somewhere within the 100 to 3200 dollar range! I know
we have some people on here who know a lot more about these things than I
do; there are some who really know what sounds good and what doesn't! So
what brands should I be looking at and what brands do I need to stay away
from? BTW-and this surprised me: he told me to stay away from Viezeo! I
had been under the impression that Visio made good quality products; the TV
in the kitchen is a VidZeo! While it's okay 9just a 19-inch portable, it
does what I need it to do and has been in there since probably 2010 (mom had
gotten it to play while she was out there cooking supper or otherwise
working in the kitchen! So will be interested in what you all think are
good sound bars and what I should even be looking for in a sound bar!

Thanks,

Tom Kaufman

Re: airfoil

Dane Trethowan <grtdane@...>
 

I can't remember when I started using Airfoil, must be at least 10 years ago.
I've seen the App progress from being totally unusable with Windows to the present day.
The functionality of Airfoil has changed considerably and the name is perhaps now a little miss-leading as the App can stream to Bluetooth devices, Chromecast devices etc.
I hope that DLNA devices will be supported in the future.
The companion App to Airfoil. is the Satellite App which is installed alongside Airfoil.
Initially Satellite turned your computer into a receiver for streamed audio from AirPlay compatible devices but now Satellite does much more than that.
You can for example remote control Airfoil from computers or other devices with Satellite so you can launch Satellite from your computer and set Satelitte to launch streaming from another computer etc to a Google Chromecast, Apple TV or whatever takes your fancy.
Airfoil and its Satellite are a real store of streaming power.

-----Original Message-----
From: all-audio@groups.io <all-audio@groups.io> On Behalf Of Joe Paton via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, 19 September 2019 5:43 AM
To: all-audio@groups.io
Subject: Re: [all-audio] airfoil

Thanks dane.
This is useful.

Joe
Joe Paton
telephone: 01702 543624
Mobile: 0 7 9 6 7 3 8 2 9 6 4
web site: http://www.apart.org


On Wed, 18 Sep 2019 21:00:30 +1000
"Dane Trethowan" <grtdane@...> wrote:

Hi,
Stick with the most up-to-date version of Airfoil as its the most accessible.
The interface isn’t as tricky as it looks once you get used to it.
Use the tab key to get around the interface.
There are various things that happen when you use the space bar to press the buttons.
One button brings up the source menu - where you set the source where Airfoil streams from on your computer.
This source can be anything from an App on your PC to a physical input or output on a sound device.
Other buttons in the Interface let you mute the volume, minimise the Interface, a slider to control the volume etc.
Press the Alt key to get into the menu system.
Go to the speakers menu to see a list of compatible devices you can stream to and select one to start streaming your source to that device.
You can also use alt-numbers on the top row as hotkey to start streaming to target devices.
That’s pretty much all there is to it.
I use both Airfoil for Windows and Mac.
Oh and one other thing you may wish to bare in mind.
Your firewall may whine about Airfoil so grant Airfoil access if required.


On 18 Sep 2019, at 8:52 pm, Joe Paton via Groups.Io <joe=vi-ability.org.uk@groups.io> wrote:

Good Afternoon good people.

I am looking to use airfoil for airplay to an homepod.

The interface looks a little tricky to access, I'm wondering if a
previous version may be easier to access, and which players airfoil
supports. any tips on accessing this software with either Jaws or
narrator would be welcome, or an alternative software option to
utilise airplay I'd be keen to hear about.


Thanks indeed.


For 30 dollars, if we can get it to work, that would be a small
investment for a positive outcome for us.






Re: airfoil

Joe Paton
 

Thanks dane.
This is useful.

Joe
Joe Paton
telephone: 01702 543624
Mobile: 0 7 9 6 7 3 8 2 9 6 4
web site: http://www.apart.org


On Wed, 18 Sep 2019 21:00:30 +1000
"Dane Trethowan" <grtdane@...> wrote:

Hi,
Stick with the most up-to-date version of Airfoil as its the most accessible.
The interface isn’t as tricky as it looks once you get used to it.
Use the tab key to get around the interface.
There are various things that happen when you use the space bar to press the buttons.
One button brings up the source menu - where you set the source where Airfoil streams from on your computer.
This source can be anything from an App on your PC to a physical input or output on a sound device.
Other buttons in the Interface let you mute the volume, minimise the Interface, a slider to control the volume etc.
Press the Alt key to get into the menu system.
Go to the speakers menu to see a list of compatible devices you can stream to and select one to start streaming your source to that device.
You can also use alt-numbers on the top row as hotkey to start streaming to target devices.
That’s pretty much all there is to it.
I use both Airfoil for Windows and Mac.
Oh and one other thing you may wish to bare in mind.
Your firewall may whine about Airfoil so grant Airfoil access if required.


On 18 Sep 2019, at 8:52 pm, Joe Paton via Groups.Io <joe=vi-ability.org.uk@groups.io> wrote:

Good Afternoon good people.

I am looking to use airfoil for airplay to an homepod.

The interface looks a little tricky to access, I'm wondering if a
previous version may be easier to access, and which players airfoil
supports. any tips on accessing this software with either Jaws or
narrator would be welcome, or an alternative software option to utilise
airplay I'd be keen to hear about.


Thanks indeed.


For 30 dollars, if we can get it to work, that would be a small
investment for a positive outcome for us.






Re: airfoil

Dane Trethowan <grtdane@...>
 

Hi,
Stick with the most up-to-date version of Airfoil as its the most accessible.
The interface isn’t as tricky as it looks once you get used to it.
Use the tab key to get around the interface.
There are various things that happen when you use the space bar to press the buttons.
One button brings up the source menu - where you set the source where Airfoil streams from on your computer.
This source can be anything from an App on your PC to a physical input or output on a sound device.
Other buttons in the Interface let you mute the volume, minimise the Interface, a slider to control the volume etc.
Press the Alt key to get into the menu system.
Go to the speakers menu to see a list of compatible devices you can stream to and select one to start streaming your source to that device.
You can also use alt-numbers on the top row as hotkey to start streaming to target devices.
That’s pretty much all there is to it.
I use both Airfoil for Windows and Mac.
Oh and one other thing you may wish to bare in mind.
Your firewall may whine about Airfoil so grant Airfoil access if required.

On 18 Sep 2019, at 8:52 pm, Joe Paton via Groups.Io <joe=vi-ability.org.uk@groups.io> wrote:

Good Afternoon good people.

I am looking to use airfoil for airplay to an homepod.

The interface looks a little tricky to access, I'm wondering if a
previous version may be easier to access, and which players airfoil
supports. any tips on accessing this software with either Jaws or
narrator would be welcome, or an alternative software option to utilise
airplay I'd be keen to hear about.


Thanks indeed.


For 30 dollars, if we can get it to work, that would be a small
investment for a positive outcome for us.





airfoil

Joe Paton
 

Good Afternoon good people.

I am looking to use airfoil for airplay to an homepod.

The interface looks a little tricky to access, I'm wondering if a
previous version may be easier to access, and which players airfoil
supports. any tips on accessing this software with either Jaws or
narrator would be welcome, or an alternative software option to utilise
airplay I'd be keen to hear about.


Thanks indeed.


For 30 dollars, if we can get it to work, that would be a small
investment for a positive outcome for us.

Re: h1n furder findings not discussed yet by anyone

Dane Trethowan <grtdane@...>
 

Its not hard to find the size you require.
I shop for the Gutman Windscreens on eBay and I just type in "Gutman Zoom H1N" for example which turns up the appropriate windscreen size.

-----Original Message-----
From: all-audio@groups.io <all-audio@groups.io> On Behalf Of Aidan
Sent: Thursday, 12 September 2019 9:58 PM
To: all-audio@groups.io
Subject: Re: [all-audio] h1n furder findings not discussed yet by anyone

Good idea, seems they make different sizes.

On 9/12/19, Dane Trethowan <grtdane@...> wrote:
I got a Windscreen with my recorder though I’m going to see if a
Gutman type is available which are far better.


On 12 Sep 2019, at 6:48 pm, Aidan <aidan.smarttalk@...> wrote:

Really, great. The mikes is very sensitive, and I don't no wich wind
screen to use, I only have those of the h4n but when I used it with
GoldWave I had very good results. Stil need to do a few other tests
outside. I don't like the auto gain much, there olympus does better,
and the limiter have some noise so don't want to use it much, but the
rest is up to standard. I cannot get it to work on ios, so need to
maybe call zoom for that one.

On 9/12/19, Dane Trethowan <grtdane@...> wrote:
So how are you finding the recorder thus far?


On 9 Sep 2019, at 8:25 pm, Aidan <aidan.smarttalk@...> wrote:

Ok, I got one of these for a few days now, and now hope to answer
stuff that were still remained unclear.
When working with the four buttons, audio format, LowCut, limiter,
and auto gain, its best to give each to quick presses to ensure
that you actually toggle a setting, because the first press only
give status as to the current setting value.
The formats in sequence, are to my knoledge:
wave 44.1/16bit. Wave 48/16bit, wave 48/24bit, wave 96/24bit, mp3
128kbps, mp3 192 kbps, mp3 256kbps, mp3 320kbps.
You can here the LowCut and limiter when they on/off when having
headphones connected.
To access the extra recording features, there is no menu button.
You must hold down the stop button, then while holding down, the
for buttons become the following from left to rite.
Auto record, pre record, self timer, and sound marker.

This makes it very easy to change settings.
So while holding down stop, you press the auto gain button for
example, twice, and it will turn on/off the sound marker.
When doing playback, this is what happens.
After pressing play, the back and forward buttons will skip files,
and to forward/rewind you must hold them down.
But dearing playback the four buttons shows the following.
from left to rite:
Mark, info, repeat, and moad.
And the marks you create when pressing the mark button only once
per time, will be usable in goldwave/soundforge.
I don't manage to see the marks in total recorder.
When pressing the LowCut wich become info dearing playbac, you
enter a file info screen wich you must navigate, and don't have
much use to us normally, so I didn't play there really.
Repeat also is working by pressing the button twice quickly to
change between, repeat one, repeat all, and off.
When pressing the auto gain button wich became moad dearing
playback, a new screen appears.
Then you find that the buttons from left to rite become:
Speed, Sound/EQ a - b repeat, and return to previous screen.
As the file play you will here as you change speed with the audio
format button, or the EQ with the LowCut button.
Same with A B repeat. And also while in that screen, the forward
and back buttons will move more rapitly fru the file when pressed
and let go as suppose to holding them down.
If you stop playback you can exit that screen or just press the
auto gain button wich will take you to the first playback screen
you get when pressing play, wich contain mark, info, repeat, and mode.
When connecting to pc this is what you get, the USB screen each
time a cable is connected, will lands on audio interface mode or
whatever they call it.
You then need to press the limiter once to move to card reader and
then press the auto gain button wich will act as enter, and mass
storage will connect.
When disconnecting from pc, and this was never discussed, I guess
there could be more than one way to do it, I don't no, but this is
what I found.
I press and hold down the stop button, then the format button
becomes direct monitor on/off, and the auto gain button becomes exit.
So while holding stop I press auto gain once, then the exit screen
comes up, then I press LowCut wich is up arrow, and auto gain for
enter, then it will return to the main screen and you will here pc
disconnect.
If you don't interact with it after removing the cable it won't
return to your file list or recording screen.

As for sound card mode, this is what you get.
When inserting the cable, it will move to audio interface mode each
time.
Now you press auto gain to enter, then you can choose between
pc/mac or ios.
It will land on pc/mac each time you press enter on the audio
interface option.
So you can just press enter again, then it will ask for wich sorce
you want to use for power, Buss power or batteries?
It lands on buss power each time that promt is accessed, so you can
just press enter again. Only then your inputs and outputs will
appear in windows/mac.
I stil have to figure out ios mode.
When deleting a file you press delete, then LowCut for up arrow,
then enter/auto gain to except/confirm.
I stil have to figure out how to delete marks on the recorder.
Currently I delete them from GoldWave.
Lastly, to access the setting screen, (sited help is well needed
here) you hold down delete while powering on.
to update the firmware after copyed the bin file to the SD card,
you hold down the play/pause button while powering on.

And to overdub, you hold play/pause and then press record.
Just keep format set to wave.

Hope this can help as only some things were breethly mentioned and
the manual not well rittin.

Aidan









Re: h1n furder findings not discussed yet by anyone

Dane Trethowan <grtdane@...>
 

I haven't managed to work out how to overdub yet though to be fair I just haven't had all that much time with the H1N recorder lately so - when I finally get around to the recorder - I'm probably going to have to drag out all my notes on the recorder and familiarise myself with the machine all over again <smile>, makes life worth living you know.

-----Original Message-----
From: all-audio@groups.io <all-audio@groups.io> On Behalf Of Aidan
Sent: Thursday, 12 September 2019 6:48 PM
To: all-audio@groups.io
Subject: Re: [all-audio] h1n furder findings not discussed yet by anyone

Really, great. The mikes is very sensitive, and I don't no wich wind screen to use, I only have those of the h4n but when I used it with GoldWave I had very good results. Stil need to do a few other tests outside. I don't like the auto gain much, there olympus does better, and the limiter have some noise so don't want to use it much, but the rest is up to standard. I cannot get it to work on ios, so need to maybe call zoom for that one.

On 9/12/19, Dane Trethowan <grtdane@...> wrote:
So how are you finding the recorder thus far?


On 9 Sep 2019, at 8:25 pm, Aidan <aidan.smarttalk@...> wrote:

Ok, I got one of these for a few days now, and now hope to answer
stuff that were still remained unclear.
When working with the four buttons, audio format, LowCut, limiter,
and auto gain, its best to give each to quick presses to ensure that
you actually toggle a setting, because the first press only give
status as to the current setting value.
The formats in sequence, are to my knoledge:
wave 44.1/16bit. Wave 48/16bit, wave 48/24bit, wave 96/24bit, mp3
128kbps, mp3 192 kbps, mp3 256kbps, mp3 320kbps.
You can here the LowCut and limiter when they on/off when having
headphones connected.
To access the extra recording features, there is no menu button.
You must hold down the stop button, then while holding down, the for
buttons become the following from left to rite.
Auto record, pre record, self timer, and sound marker.

This makes it very easy to change settings.
So while holding down stop, you press the auto gain button for
example, twice, and it will turn on/off the sound marker.
When doing playback, this is what happens.
After pressing play, the back and forward buttons will skip files,
and to forward/rewind you must hold them down.
But dearing playback the four buttons shows the following.
from left to rite:
Mark, info, repeat, and moad.
And the marks you create when pressing the mark button only once per
time, will be usable in goldwave/soundforge.
I don't manage to see the marks in total recorder.
When pressing the LowCut wich become info dearing playbac, you enter
a file info screen wich you must navigate, and don't have much use to
us normally, so I didn't play there really.
Repeat also is working by pressing the button twice quickly to change
between, repeat one, repeat all, and off.
When pressing the auto gain button wich became moad dearing playback,
a new screen appears.
Then you find that the buttons from left to rite become:
Speed, Sound/EQ a - b repeat, and return to previous screen.
As the file play you will here as you change speed with the audio
format button, or the EQ with the LowCut button.
Same with A B repeat. And also while in that screen, the forward and
back buttons will move more rapitly fru the file when pressed and let
go as suppose to holding them down.
If you stop playback you can exit that screen or just press the auto
gain button wich will take you to the first playback screen you get
when pressing play, wich contain mark, info, repeat, and mode.
When connecting to pc this is what you get, the USB screen each time
a cable is connected, will lands on audio interface mode or whatever
they call it.
You then need to press the limiter once to move to card reader and
then press the auto gain button wich will act as enter, and mass
storage will connect.
When disconnecting from pc, and this was never discussed, I guess
there could be more than one way to do it, I don't no, but this is
what I found.
I press and hold down the stop button, then the format button becomes
direct monitor on/off, and the auto gain button becomes exit.
So while holding stop I press auto gain once, then the exit screen
comes up, then I press LowCut wich is up arrow, and auto gain for
enter, then it will return to the main screen and you will here pc
disconnect.
If you don't interact with it after removing the cable it won't
return to your file list or recording screen.

As for sound card mode, this is what you get.
When inserting the cable, it will move to audio interface mode each time.
Now you press auto gain to enter, then you can choose between pc/mac
or ios.
It will land on pc/mac each time you press enter on the audio
interface option.
So you can just press enter again, then it will ask for wich sorce
you want to use for power, Buss power or batteries?
It lands on buss power each time that promt is accessed, so you can
just press enter again. Only then your inputs and outputs will appear
in windows/mac.
I stil have to figure out ios mode.
When deleting a file you press delete, then LowCut for up arrow, then
enter/auto gain to except/confirm.
I stil have to figure out how to delete marks on the recorder.
Currently I delete them from GoldWave.
Lastly, to access the setting screen, (sited help is well needed
here) you hold down delete while powering on.
to update the firmware after copyed the bin file to the SD card, you
hold down the play/pause button while powering on.

And to overdub, you hold play/pause and then press record.
Just keep format set to wave.

Hope this can help as only some things were breethly mentioned and
the manual not well rittin.

Aidan





Re: Olympus DM-720 Voice recorder, I like it

Mike Busboom
 

Glad you are pleased with your DM720, Dane. I use mine to record meetings and interviews pretty frequently.

Though it is not intended as a music recorder, I have used mine to record outdoor piano concerts as well as one house concert for piano and chello.

Take care,

Mike

On 12.09.2019, at 03:07, Dane Trethowan <grtdane@...> wrote:

The recorder looks very similar to the LS-P4 except for the microphones
which are indented into the case and have openings on the top, front and
back of the machine - similar to the DM-4 I once owned but on a smaller
scale-.

Many of the practical features for a Voice Recorder have been retained over
the DM-4 including the "Timer Recording" which many people may find
invaluable.

The DM-720 doesn't record to the quality of the LS-P4 and was never intended
to given the DM-720 is a voice recorder whereas the LS-P4 is designed for
more versatile recording tasks such as recording live music etc.

Nevertheless the user can take full advantage of the "Look ahead" bugger
that is enabled when "Auto" level, use manual recording level and everything
inbetween.

The DM-720 uses 1 AAA battery as does the Olympus LS-P4 and you can choose
what battery type you will be using, rechargeable or standard alkaline
battery types are supported.

Only 2 recording formats are supported on the DM-720, PCM and MP3 but again
the DM-720 is a voice recorder and the fact that PCM is still supported is
to me a added bonus in a recorder of this type.

Internal memory is only 4GB and this should be enough for most voice
recording applications. The memory can be expanded further by the use of a
memory card.

Voice Guidance is part of the Dm-720 and a person without sight can set the
clock and timers though folder listings are not read.

My Dm-720 didn't come with any carrying case or windscreen though I'm sure
the Gutman Windscreen I purchased for the Olympus LS-P4 will fit the DM-720
withotu a problem.





Re: h1n furder findings not discussed yet by anyone

Aidan
 

Good idea, seems they make different sizes.

On 9/12/19, Dane Trethowan <grtdane@...> wrote:
I got a Windscreen with my recorder though I’m going to see if a Gutman type
is available which are far better.


On 12 Sep 2019, at 6:48 pm, Aidan <aidan.smarttalk@...> wrote:

Really, great. The mikes is very sensitive, and I don't no wich wind
screen to use, I only have those of the h4n but when I used it with
GoldWave I had very good results. Stil need to do a few other tests
outside. I don't like the auto gain much, there olympus does better,
and the limiter have some noise so don't want to use it much, but the
rest is up to standard. I cannot get it to work on ios, so need to
maybe call zoom for that one.

On 9/12/19, Dane Trethowan <grtdane@...> wrote:
So how are you finding the recorder thus far?


On 9 Sep 2019, at 8:25 pm, Aidan <aidan.smarttalk@...> wrote:

Ok, I got one of these for a few days now, and now hope to answer
stuff that were still remained unclear.
When working with the four buttons, audio format, LowCut, limiter, and
auto gain, its best to give each to quick presses to ensure that you
actually toggle a setting, because the first press only give status as
to the current setting value.
The formats in sequence, are to my knoledge:
wave 44.1/16bit. Wave 48/16bit, wave 48/24bit, wave 96/24bit, mp3
128kbps, mp3 192 kbps, mp3 256kbps, mp3 320kbps.
You can here the LowCut and limiter when they on/off when having
headphones connected.
To access the extra recording features, there is no menu button.
You must hold down the stop button, then while holding down, the for
buttons become the following from left to rite.
Auto record, pre record, self timer, and sound marker.

This makes it very easy to change settings.
So while holding down stop, you press the auto gain button for
example, twice, and it will turn on/off the sound marker.
When doing playback, this is what happens.
After pressing play, the back and forward buttons will skip files, and
to forward/rewind you must hold them down.
But dearing playback the four buttons shows the following.
from left to rite:
Mark, info, repeat, and moad.
And the marks you create when pressing the mark button only once per
time, will be usable in goldwave/soundforge.
I don't manage to see the marks in total recorder.
When pressing the LowCut wich become info dearing playbac, you enter a
file info screen wich you must navigate, and don't have much use to us
normally, so I didn't play there really.
Repeat also is working by pressing the button twice quickly to change
between, repeat one, repeat all, and off.
When pressing the auto gain button wich became moad dearing playback,
a new screen appears.
Then you find that the buttons from left to rite become:
Speed, Sound/EQ a - b repeat, and return to previous screen.
As the file play you will here as you change speed with the audio
format button, or the EQ with the LowCut button.
Same with A B repeat. And also while in that screen, the forward and
back buttons will move more rapitly fru the file when pressed and let
go as suppose to holding them down.
If you stop playback you can exit that screen or just press the auto
gain button wich will take you to the first playback screen you get
when pressing play, wich contain mark, info, repeat, and mode.
When connecting to pc this is what you get,
the USB screen each time a cable is connected, will lands on audio
interface mode or whatever they call it.
You then need to press the limiter once to move to card reader and
then press the auto gain button wich will act as enter, and mass
storage will connect.
When disconnecting from pc, and this was never discussed, I guess
there could be more than one way to do it, I don't no, but this is
what I found.
I press and hold down the stop button, then the format button becomes
direct monitor on/off, and the auto gain button becomes exit.
So while holding stop I press auto gain once, then the exit screen
comes up, then I press LowCut wich is up arrow, and auto gain for
enter, then it will return to the main screen and you will here pc
disconnect.
If you don't interact with it after removing the cable it won't return
to your file list or recording screen.

As for sound card mode, this is what you get.
When inserting the cable, it will move to audio interface mode each
time.
Now you press auto gain to enter, then you can choose between pc/mac or
ios.
It will land on pc/mac each time you press enter on the audio interface
option.
So you can just press enter again, then it will ask for wich sorce you
want to use for power, Buss power or batteries?
It lands on buss power each time that promt is accessed, so you can
just press enter again. Only then your inputs and outputs will appear
in windows/mac.
I stil have to figure out ios mode.
When deleting a file you press delete, then LowCut for up arrow, then
enter/auto gain to except/confirm.
I stil have to figure out how to delete marks on the recorder.
Currently I delete them from GoldWave.
Lastly, to access the setting screen, (sited help is well needed here)
you hold down delete while powering on.
to update the firmware after copyed the bin file to the SD card, you
hold down the play/pause button while powering on.

And to overdub, you hold play/pause and then press record.
Just keep format set to wave.

Hope this can help as only some things were breethly mentioned and the
manual not well rittin.

Aidan









Re: h1n furder findings not discussed yet by anyone

Dane Trethowan <grtdane@...>
 

I got a Windscreen with my recorder though I’m going to see if a Gutman type is available which are far better.

On 12 Sep 2019, at 6:48 pm, Aidan <aidan.smarttalk@...> wrote:

Really, great. The mikes is very sensitive, and I don't no wich wind
screen to use, I only have those of the h4n but when I used it with
GoldWave I had very good results. Stil need to do a few other tests
outside. I don't like the auto gain much, there olympus does better,
and the limiter have some noise so don't want to use it much, but the
rest is up to standard. I cannot get it to work on ios, so need to
maybe call zoom for that one.

On 9/12/19, Dane Trethowan <grtdane@...> wrote:
So how are you finding the recorder thus far?


On 9 Sep 2019, at 8:25 pm, Aidan <aidan.smarttalk@...> wrote:

Ok, I got one of these for a few days now, and now hope to answer
stuff that were still remained unclear.
When working with the four buttons, audio format, LowCut, limiter, and
auto gain, its best to give each to quick presses to ensure that you
actually toggle a setting, because the first press only give status as
to the current setting value.
The formats in sequence, are to my knoledge:
wave 44.1/16bit. Wave 48/16bit, wave 48/24bit, wave 96/24bit, mp3
128kbps, mp3 192 kbps, mp3 256kbps, mp3 320kbps.
You can here the LowCut and limiter when they on/off when having
headphones connected.
To access the extra recording features, there is no menu button.
You must hold down the stop button, then while holding down, the for
buttons become the following from left to rite.
Auto record, pre record, self timer, and sound marker.

This makes it very easy to change settings.
So while holding down stop, you press the auto gain button for
example, twice, and it will turn on/off the sound marker.
When doing playback, this is what happens.
After pressing play, the back and forward buttons will skip files, and
to forward/rewind you must hold them down.
But dearing playback the four buttons shows the following.
from left to rite:
Mark, info, repeat, and moad.
And the marks you create when pressing the mark button only once per
time, will be usable in goldwave/soundforge.
I don't manage to see the marks in total recorder.
When pressing the LowCut wich become info dearing playbac, you enter a
file info screen wich you must navigate, and don't have much use to us
normally, so I didn't play there really.
Repeat also is working by pressing the button twice quickly to change
between, repeat one, repeat all, and off.
When pressing the auto gain button wich became moad dearing playback,
a new screen appears.
Then you find that the buttons from left to rite become:
Speed, Sound/EQ a - b repeat, and return to previous screen.
As the file play you will here as you change speed with the audio
format button, or the EQ with the LowCut button.
Same with A B repeat. And also while in that screen, the forward and
back buttons will move more rapitly fru the file when pressed and let
go as suppose to holding them down.
If you stop playback you can exit that screen or just press the auto
gain button wich will take you to the first playback screen you get
when pressing play, wich contain mark, info, repeat, and mode.
When connecting to pc this is what you get,
the USB screen each time a cable is connected, will lands on audio
interface mode or whatever they call it.
You then need to press the limiter once to move to card reader and
then press the auto gain button wich will act as enter, and mass
storage will connect.
When disconnecting from pc, and this was never discussed, I guess
there could be more than one way to do it, I don't no, but this is
what I found.
I press and hold down the stop button, then the format button becomes
direct monitor on/off, and the auto gain button becomes exit.
So while holding stop I press auto gain once, then the exit screen
comes up, then I press LowCut wich is up arrow, and auto gain for
enter, then it will return to the main screen and you will here pc
disconnect.
If you don't interact with it after removing the cable it won't return
to your file list or recording screen.

As for sound card mode, this is what you get.
When inserting the cable, it will move to audio interface mode each time.
Now you press auto gain to enter, then you can choose between pc/mac or
ios.
It will land on pc/mac each time you press enter on the audio interface
option.
So you can just press enter again, then it will ask for wich sorce you
want to use for power, Buss power or batteries?
It lands on buss power each time that promt is accessed, so you can
just press enter again. Only then your inputs and outputs will appear
in windows/mac.
I stil have to figure out ios mode.
When deleting a file you press delete, then LowCut for up arrow, then
enter/auto gain to except/confirm.
I stil have to figure out how to delete marks on the recorder.
Currently I delete them from GoldWave.
Lastly, to access the setting screen, (sited help is well needed here)
you hold down delete while powering on.
to update the firmware after copyed the bin file to the SD card, you
hold down the play/pause button while powering on.

And to overdub, you hold play/pause and then press record.
Just keep format set to wave.

Hope this can help as only some things were breethly mentioned and the
manual not well rittin.

Aidan






Re: h1n furder findings not discussed yet by anyone

Aidan
 

Really, great. The mikes is very sensitive, and I don't no wich wind
screen to use, I only have those of the h4n but when I used it with
GoldWave I had very good results. Stil need to do a few other tests
outside. I don't like the auto gain much, there olympus does better,
and the limiter have some noise so don't want to use it much, but the
rest is up to standard. I cannot get it to work on ios, so need to
maybe call zoom for that one.

On 9/12/19, Dane Trethowan <grtdane@...> wrote:
So how are you finding the recorder thus far?


On 9 Sep 2019, at 8:25 pm, Aidan <aidan.smarttalk@...> wrote:

Ok, I got one of these for a few days now, and now hope to answer
stuff that were still remained unclear.
When working with the four buttons, audio format, LowCut, limiter, and
auto gain, its best to give each to quick presses to ensure that you
actually toggle a setting, because the first press only give status as
to the current setting value.
The formats in sequence, are to my knoledge:
wave 44.1/16bit. Wave 48/16bit, wave 48/24bit, wave 96/24bit, mp3
128kbps, mp3 192 kbps, mp3 256kbps, mp3 320kbps.
You can here the LowCut and limiter when they on/off when having
headphones connected.
To access the extra recording features, there is no menu button.
You must hold down the stop button, then while holding down, the for
buttons become the following from left to rite.
Auto record, pre record, self timer, and sound marker.

This makes it very easy to change settings.
So while holding down stop, you press the auto gain button for
example, twice, and it will turn on/off the sound marker.
When doing playback, this is what happens.
After pressing play, the back and forward buttons will skip files, and
to forward/rewind you must hold them down.
But dearing playback the four buttons shows the following.
from left to rite:
Mark, info, repeat, and moad.
And the marks you create when pressing the mark button only once per
time, will be usable in goldwave/soundforge.
I don't manage to see the marks in total recorder.
When pressing the LowCut wich become info dearing playbac, you enter a
file info screen wich you must navigate, and don't have much use to us
normally, so I didn't play there really.
Repeat also is working by pressing the button twice quickly to change
between, repeat one, repeat all, and off.
When pressing the auto gain button wich became moad dearing playback,
a new screen appears.
Then you find that the buttons from left to rite become:
Speed, Sound/EQ a - b repeat, and return to previous screen.
As the file play you will here as you change speed with the audio
format button, or the EQ with the LowCut button.
Same with A B repeat. And also while in that screen, the forward and
back buttons will move more rapitly fru the file when pressed and let
go as suppose to holding them down.
If you stop playback you can exit that screen or just press the auto
gain button wich will take you to the first playback screen you get
when pressing play, wich contain mark, info, repeat, and mode.
When connecting to pc this is what you get,
the USB screen each time a cable is connected, will lands on audio
interface mode or whatever they call it.
You then need to press the limiter once to move to card reader and
then press the auto gain button wich will act as enter, and mass
storage will connect.
When disconnecting from pc, and this was never discussed, I guess
there could be more than one way to do it, I don't no, but this is
what I found.
I press and hold down the stop button, then the format button becomes
direct monitor on/off, and the auto gain button becomes exit.
So while holding stop I press auto gain once, then the exit screen
comes up, then I press LowCut wich is up arrow, and auto gain for
enter, then it will return to the main screen and you will here pc
disconnect.
If you don't interact with it after removing the cable it won't return
to your file list or recording screen.

As for sound card mode, this is what you get.
When inserting the cable, it will move to audio interface mode each time.
Now you press auto gain to enter, then you can choose between pc/mac or
ios.
It will land on pc/mac each time you press enter on the audio interface
option.
So you can just press enter again, then it will ask for wich sorce you
want to use for power, Buss power or batteries?
It lands on buss power each time that promt is accessed, so you can
just press enter again. Only then your inputs and outputs will appear
in windows/mac.
I stil have to figure out ios mode.
When deleting a file you press delete, then LowCut for up arrow, then
enter/auto gain to except/confirm.
I stil have to figure out how to delete marks on the recorder.
Currently I delete them from GoldWave.
Lastly, to access the setting screen, (sited help is well needed here)
you hold down delete while powering on.
to update the firmware after copyed the bin file to the SD card, you
hold down the play/pause button while powering on.

And to overdub, you hold play/pause and then press record.
Just keep format set to wave.

Hope this can help as only some things were breethly mentioned and the
manual not well rittin.

Aidan





Re: h1n furder findings not discussed yet by anyone

Dane Trethowan <grtdane@...>
 

So how are you finding the recorder thus far?

On 9 Sep 2019, at 8:25 pm, Aidan <aidan.smarttalk@...> wrote:

Ok, I got one of these for a few days now, and now hope to answer
stuff that were still remained unclear.
When working with the four buttons, audio format, LowCut, limiter, and
auto gain, its best to give each to quick presses to ensure that you
actually toggle a setting, because the first press only give status as
to the current setting value.
The formats in sequence, are to my knoledge:
wave 44.1/16bit. Wave 48/16bit, wave 48/24bit, wave 96/24bit, mp3
128kbps, mp3 192 kbps, mp3 256kbps, mp3 320kbps.
You can here the LowCut and limiter when they on/off when having
headphones connected.
To access the extra recording features, there is no menu button.
You must hold down the stop button, then while holding down, the for
buttons become the following from left to rite.
Auto record, pre record, self timer, and sound marker.

This makes it very easy to change settings.
So while holding down stop, you press the auto gain button for
example, twice, and it will turn on/off the sound marker.
When doing playback, this is what happens.
After pressing play, the back and forward buttons will skip files, and
to forward/rewind you must hold them down.
But dearing playback the four buttons shows the following.
from left to rite:
Mark, info, repeat, and moad.
And the marks you create when pressing the mark button only once per
time, will be usable in goldwave/soundforge.
I don't manage to see the marks in total recorder.
When pressing the LowCut wich become info dearing playbac, you enter a
file info screen wich you must navigate, and don't have much use to us
normally, so I didn't play there really.
Repeat also is working by pressing the button twice quickly to change
between, repeat one, repeat all, and off.
When pressing the auto gain button wich became moad dearing playback,
a new screen appears.
Then you find that the buttons from left to rite become:
Speed, Sound/EQ a - b repeat, and return to previous screen.
As the file play you will here as you change speed with the audio
format button, or the EQ with the LowCut button.
Same with A B repeat. And also while in that screen, the forward and
back buttons will move more rapitly fru the file when pressed and let
go as suppose to holding them down.
If you stop playback you can exit that screen or just press the auto
gain button wich will take you to the first playback screen you get
when pressing play, wich contain mark, info, repeat, and mode.
When connecting to pc this is what you get,
the USB screen each time a cable is connected, will lands on audio
interface mode or whatever they call it.
You then need to press the limiter once to move to card reader and
then press the auto gain button wich will act as enter, and mass
storage will connect.
When disconnecting from pc, and this was never discussed, I guess
there could be more than one way to do it, I don't no, but this is
what I found.
I press and hold down the stop button, then the format button becomes
direct monitor on/off, and the auto gain button becomes exit.
So while holding stop I press auto gain once, then the exit screen
comes up, then I press LowCut wich is up arrow, and auto gain for
enter, then it will return to the main screen and you will here pc
disconnect.
If you don't interact with it after removing the cable it won't return
to your file list or recording screen.

As for sound card mode, this is what you get.
When inserting the cable, it will move to audio interface mode each time.
Now you press auto gain to enter, then you can choose between pc/mac or ios.
It will land on pc/mac each time you press enter on the audio interface option.
So you can just press enter again, then it will ask for wich sorce you
want to use for power, Buss power or batteries?
It lands on buss power each time that promt is accessed, so you can
just press enter again. Only then your inputs and outputs will appear
in windows/mac.
I stil have to figure out ios mode.
When deleting a file you press delete, then LowCut for up arrow, then
enter/auto gain to except/confirm.
I stil have to figure out how to delete marks on the recorder.
Currently I delete them from GoldWave.
Lastly, to access the setting screen, (sited help is well needed here)
you hold down delete while powering on.
to update the firmware after copyed the bin file to the SD card, you
hold down the play/pause button while powering on.

And to overdub, you hold play/pause and then press record.
Just keep format set to wave.

Hope this can help as only some things were breethly mentioned and the
manual not well rittin.

Aidan


Olympus DM-720 Voice recorder, I like it

Dane Trethowan <grtdane@...>
 

The recorder looks very similar to the LS-P4 except for the microphones
which are indented into the case and have openings on the top, front and
back of the machine - similar to the DM-4 I once owned but on a smaller
scale-.

Many of the practical features for a Voice Recorder have been retained over
the DM-4 including the "Timer Recording" which many people may find
invaluable.

The DM-720 doesn't record to the quality of the LS-P4 and was never intended
to given the DM-720 is a voice recorder whereas the LS-P4 is designed for
more versatile recording tasks such as recording live music etc.

Nevertheless the user can take full advantage of the "Look ahead" bugger
that is enabled when "Auto" level, use manual recording level and everything
inbetween.

The DM-720 uses 1 AAA battery as does the Olympus LS-P4 and you can choose
what battery type you will be using, rechargeable or standard alkaline
battery types are supported.

Only 2 recording formats are supported on the DM-720, PCM and MP3 but again
the DM-720 is a voice recorder and the fact that PCM is still supported is
to me a added bonus in a recorder of this type.

Internal memory is only 4GB and this should be enough for most voice
recording applications. The memory can be expanded further by the use of a
memory card.

Voice Guidance is part of the Dm-720 and a person without sight can set the
clock and timers though folder listings are not read.

My Dm-720 didn't come with any carrying case or windscreen though I'm sure
the Gutman Windscreen I purchased for the Olympus LS-P4 will fit the DM-720
withotu a problem.

Re: A rather strange sound problem

Yusuf Osman
 

Yes. With my old PC it worked without a problem.

Although I'm seriously thinking about moving from Bluetooth wireless to Wi-Fi wireless for headphones as in addition to this problem I'm also noticing a slight popping sound when using my Screenreader. I've read somewhere that this is due to the headphones going off when nothing is being transmitted and then back on again each time Jaws tries to say something. It is a little annoying.
Yusuf

-----Original Message-----
From: all-audio@groups.io <all-audio@groups.io> On Behalf Of Hamit Campos
Sent: 09 September 2019 14:07
To: all-audio@groups.io
Subject: Re: [all-audio] A rather strange sound problem

Ah than something is up there now. That's not good. Is this the only PC it does this with?

On 9/9/2019 9:02 AM, Yusuf Osman wrote:
Sorry, your right, we did and I completely forgot. The problem is the second USB port did the same thing as the first after the first removal.
Yusuf

-----Original Message-----
From: all-audio@groups.io <all-audio@groups.io> On Behalf Of Hamit
Campos
Sent: 09 September 2019 13:53
To: all-audio@groups.io
Subject: Re: [all-audio] A rather strange sound problem

Wait didn't we just figure this out a few days ago? Or was that someone else. But in any case. I'd suggest trying the dongle on another port.
Like I said that last time my H6 does a similar thing with laptops. I figure that in my case it's that the H6 doesn't like that USB port that is active so you can charge your phone and stuff.

On 9/9/2019 5:41 AM, Yusuf Osman wrote:
Hi all, please bear with me whilst I describe the situation.

My desktop has an in-built sound card (NVIDIA) and a separate sound card (Strix). The former is used for my Screenreader (Jaws or NVDA) and the latter for recording via the line-in from sounds coming from my Amp.

I often like to listen to what I am recording whilst I am cooking in the kitchen, and in order to do this I connect a pair of Plantronics headphones via a Bluetooth dongle.

When these are plugged in and turned on, all the sounds from my in-built sound card I.E. Jaws and Windows come via the headphones. If I go in to the recording tab sheet of the sounds dialogue in windows no sound is heard at all. This only happens in that tab sheet and in no other. Additionally it only happens when the Plantronics headphones are connected. Luckily I have a braille display and am able to select the line-in and via it's properties select the listen checkbox. Once I've left that dialogue and the recording tab sheet Jaws, windows and the sound from the line-in all start playing over the headphones without an issue.

If anyone is still reading thanks. Does anyone know why sounds disappear when in the recording tab sheet but nowhere else? I used to have a similar setup with my previous computer and this didn't happen. I'm running Windows10.
Thanks
Yusuf







Re: A rather strange sound problem

Hamit Campos
 

Ah than something is up there now. That's not good. Is this the only PC it does this with?

On 9/9/2019 9:02 AM, Yusuf Osman wrote:
Sorry, your right, we did and I completely forgot. The problem is the second USB port did the same thing as the first after the first removal.
Yusuf

-----Original Message-----
From: all-audio@groups.io <all-audio@groups.io> On Behalf Of Hamit Campos
Sent: 09 September 2019 13:53
To: all-audio@groups.io
Subject: Re: [all-audio] A rather strange sound problem

Wait didn't we just figure this out a few days ago? Or was that someone else. But in any case. I'd suggest trying the dongle on another port.
Like I said that last time my H6 does a similar thing with laptops. I figure that in my case it's that the H6 doesn't like that USB port that is active so you can charge your phone and stuff.

On 9/9/2019 5:41 AM, Yusuf Osman wrote:
Hi all, please bear with me whilst I describe the situation.

My desktop has an in-built sound card (NVIDIA) and a separate sound card (Strix). The former is used for my Screenreader (Jaws or NVDA) and the latter for recording via the line-in from sounds coming from my Amp.

I often like to listen to what I am recording whilst I am cooking in the kitchen, and in order to do this I connect a pair of Plantronics headphones via a Bluetooth dongle.

When these are plugged in and turned on, all the sounds from my in-built sound card I.E. Jaws and Windows come via the headphones. If I go in to the recording tab sheet of the sounds dialogue in windows no sound is heard at all. This only happens in that tab sheet and in no other. Additionally it only happens when the Plantronics headphones are connected. Luckily I have a braille display and am able to select the line-in and via it's properties select the listen checkbox. Once I've left that dialogue and the recording tab sheet Jaws, windows and the sound from the line-in all start playing over the headphones without an issue.

If anyone is still reading thanks. Does anyone know why sounds disappear when in the recording tab sheet but nowhere else? I used to have a similar setup with my previous computer and this didn't happen. I'm running Windows10.
Thanks
Yusuf