Date   

Re: Heatshrink

John Lemay
 

Hello all

Thanks for your helpful comments about heatshrink, on and off list.

Turns out, after some experimentation today, that it is pilot error -
although I'd prefer to blame my tools; My two setting heat gun has turned
itself into a single setting - the low one of course - and it is man enough
to shrink the material but not enough to get the glue flowing nicely.

Time for a bit of retail therapy !

John G4ZTR

-----Original Message-----
From: UKMicrowaves@groups.io [mailto:UKMicrowaves@groups.io] On Behalf Of
Conrad, PA5Y
Sent: 07 April 2021 09:57
To: UKMicrowaves@groups.io
Subject: Re: [UKMicrowaves] Heatshrink

Hi Frank I use Raychem heatshrink with overlapped 3M self-amalgamating tape
and finally Denso tape. I also have bright shiny connectors after a good
number of years. Don't forget to wind the tape so that when it tries to
unravel it tightens the connector. I am sure I'm not the only one who has
seen that if you do it wrong it can unscrew the connectors. Not seen this
happen for years but I have heard from other installers that it is quite
common.

Denso tape is really the best thing for the job.

73

Conrad PA5Y

-----Original Message-----
From: UKMicrowaves@groups.io <UKMicrowaves@groups.io> On Behalf Of frank
evans via groups.io
Sent: 07 April 2021 00:51
To: UKMicrowaves@groups.io
Subject: Re: [UKMicrowaves] Heatshrink

John

As someone who spent his working life installing professional communications
aerials can I recommend you to Denso tape, It's the absolute best. A light
Hessian tape seriously impregnated with a heavy wax. Inexpensive, and
available in a range of widths from your local plumber's merchants or on
line

Frank GW8AWM

-----Original Message-----
From: UKMicrowaves@groups.io [mailto:UKMicrowaves@groups.io] On Behalf Of
John Lemay
Sent: 06 April 2021 19:38
To: UKMicrowaves@groups.io
Subject: [UKMicrowaves] Heatshrink


I've spent part of today tidying up cables and repositioning masthead boxes
on 23, 13 and 9cms. While doing this it became clear that I could make a
better job of it by changing an angle N type to a straight one.

When I stripped back the glued heatshrink I discovered that it had not
adhered to the cable (LDF4-50) at all, and it wasn't much better on the plug
body. It wasn't an eBay cheapo buy, but it wasn't from Andrews/Commscope
either.

Any recommendations for decent quality sticky heatshrink please ?

Thanks

John G4ZTR


low ESR caps on 4351

militaryoperator
 

Following on from recent posting about fitting LSR caps across the regulator filter caps on 4351 boards, I fitted two 1000uf across the two regulator o/ps. Seems to have helped I think?
Ben

Before                                                                                and after.
cap.jpg
  


Re: Heatshrink

Conrad, PA5Y
 

Hi Frank I use Raychem heatshrink with overlapped 3M self-amalgamating tape and finally Denso tape. I also have bright shiny connectors after a good number of years. Don't forget to wind the tape so that when it tries to unravel it tightens the connector. I am sure I'm not the only one who has seen that if you do it wrong it can unscrew the connectors. Not seen this happen for years but I have heard from other installers that it is quite common.

Denso tape is really the best thing for the job.

73

Conrad PA5Y

-----Original Message-----
From: UKMicrowaves@groups.io <UKMicrowaves@groups.io> On Behalf Of frank evans via groups.io
Sent: 07 April 2021 00:51
To: UKMicrowaves@groups.io
Subject: Re: [UKMicrowaves] Heatshrink

John

As someone who spent his working life installing professional communications aerials can I recommend you to Denso tape, It's the absolute best. A light Hessian tape seriously impregnated with a heavy wax. Inexpensive, and available in a range of widths from your local plumber's merchants or on line

Frank GW8AWM

-----Original Message-----
From: UKMicrowaves@groups.io [mailto:UKMicrowaves@groups.io] On Behalf Of John Lemay
Sent: 06 April 2021 19:38
To: UKMicrowaves@groups.io
Subject: [UKMicrowaves] Heatshrink


I've spent part of today tidying up cables and repositioning masthead boxes on 23, 13 and 9cms. While doing this it became clear that I could make a better job of it by changing an angle N type to a straight one.

When I stripped back the glued heatshrink I discovered that it had not adhered to the cable (LDF4-50) at all, and it wasn't much better on the plug body. It wasn't an eBay cheapo buy, but it wasn't from Andrews/Commscope either.

Any recommendations for decent quality sticky heatshrink please ?

Thanks

John G4ZTR


Re: Heatshrink

Conrad, PA5Y
 

Hello John, the Raychem stuff is perfect.

https://awbroadcast.com/produkt/raychem-mwt-m-25-8-schrumpfschlauch-1000mm/

You must be able to find a UK source I would have thought.

73

Conrad PA5Y

-----Original Message-----
From: UKMicrowaves@groups.io <UKMicrowaves@groups.io> On Behalf Of John Lemay via groups.io
Sent: 06 April 2021 20:38
To: UKMicrowaves@groups.io
Subject: [UKMicrowaves] Heatshrink

I've spent part of today tidying up cables and repositioning masthead boxes on 23, 13 and 9cms. While doing this it became clear that I could make a better job of it by changing an angle N type to a straight one.

When I stripped back the glued heatshrink I discovered that it had not adhered to the cable (LDF4-50) at all, and it wasn't much better on the plug body. It wasn't an eBay cheapo buy, but it wasn't from Andrews/Commscope either.

Any recommendations for decent quality sticky heatshrink please ?

Thanks

John G4ZTR


Re: Heatshrink

frank evans
 

John

As someone who spent his working life installing professional
communications aerials can I recommend you to Denso tape, It's the
absolute best. A light Hessian tape seriously impregnated with a heavy
wax. Inexpensive, and available in a range of widths from your local
plumber's merchants or on line

Frank GW8AWM

-----Original Message-----
From: UKMicrowaves@groups.io [mailto:UKMicrowaves@groups.io] On Behalf
Of John Lemay
Sent: 06 April 2021 19:38
To: UKMicrowaves@groups.io
Subject: [UKMicrowaves] Heatshrink


I've spent part of today tidying up cables and repositioning masthead
boxes on 23, 13 and 9cms. While doing this it became clear that I could
make a better job of it by changing an angle N type to a straight one.

When I stripped back the glued heatshrink I discovered that it had not
adhered to the cable (LDF4-50) at all, and it wasn't much better on the
plug body. It wasn't an eBay cheapo buy, but it wasn't from
Andrews/Commscope either.

Any recommendations for decent quality sticky heatshrink please ?

Thanks

John G4ZTR


Re: Heatshrink

Paul G8AQA
 

Hi John,

eBay item number: 282357541289

 works ok for me. Plenty of glue oozes out. Various sizes available.

Paul G8AQA

On 06/04/2021 19:37, John Lemay wrote:
I've spent part of today tidying up cables and repositioning masthead boxes
on 23, 13 and 9cms. While doing this it became clear that I could make a
better job of it by changing an angle N type to a straight one.

When I stripped back the glued heatshrink I discovered that it had not
adhered to the cable (LDF4-50) at all, and it wasn't much better on the plug
body. It wasn't an eBay cheapo buy, but it wasn't from Andrews/Commscope
either.

Any recommendations for decent quality sticky heatshrink please ?

Thanks

John G4ZTR





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This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com


Re: Heatshrink

Alan Melia
 

Hi John I have a fair length of adhesive heatshrink in stock. It came from Rapid a couple of years back and is big enough to fit over an N-type connection. I can send you a bit to try if it would help.

I tend to use adhesive tape and self-amalgamating tape as was demo'd to me by some professional riggers when the company I was with ran a few common base PMR (repeater) stations on TV sites.

Either way the glue adhesion to the jacket is vital to stop moisture creeping into the connection.

Alan
G3NYK

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Lemay" <john@carltonhouse.eclipse.co.uk>
To: <UKMicrowaves@groups.io>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2021 7:37 PM
Subject: [UKMicrowaves] Heatshrink


I've spent part of today tidying up cables and repositioning masthead boxes
on 23, 13 and 9cms. While doing this it became clear that I could make a
better job of it by changing an angle N type to a straight one.

When I stripped back the glued heatshrink I discovered that it had not
adhered to the cable (LDF4-50) at all, and it wasn't much better on the plug
body. It wasn't an eBay cheapo buy, but it wasn't from Andrews/Commscope
either.

Any recommendations for decent quality sticky heatshrink please ?

Thanks

John G4ZTR






Re: Retuning a 23cm duplexer, any hints please?

Alan Beard
 

Hi all,

Thomas Eddison 'tinkered' until the breakthrough...

The figure of 8 loop did the trick.


Where are the 'tinkerers' out there????

I've achieved a super steep slope on the high side of a pass, now
to see if I can get another super steep slope on the lower frequency 
side of the high pass. 

Come on guys, where's your imagination?

Alan VK2ZIW

On Tue, 6 Apr 2021 07:44:42 +1000, Alan Beard via groups.io wrote
> Hi all,
> Here are my mods to this 1800 MHz duplexer so far:
>
> > www.unixservice.com.au/hamradio/repeaters/duplexers/23CMpix/
> IMG_3809c.JPG
> Tuning is now much easier with the M3 screws further out, out from the 4mm ID tube.
>
> My next question is:
>
> Can the inter-digital filter be made BandPass and BandReject?
>
> (as we do for 2m repeaters) (photos, drawings please)
>
> Our 20 MHz split for 23cm repeaters is pretty tight.
>
> I see nothing on the web.
>
> Alan VK2ZIW
>
>

>
>

> On Sun, 4 Apr 2021 22:05:14 +0000 (UTC), KENT BRITAIN wrote
> > Interestingly the 3rd harmonic is not exactly 3X the 430 MHz frequency, but close.
> > Often easier to do the first tuning at the 430 MHz frequency,m then fine tune at the 23 cm frequency.
> >
> > Quite often we see the 450 MHz filters from commercial mobile radios surplus.  Most of those tune 23 cm as well.   Good luck with your project,  Kent WA5VJB/G8EMY
> >
> > On Sunday, April 4, 2021, 4:43:42 PM CDT, Alan Beard via groups.io <beardal@...> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Kent,
> >

> > We have a "parrot" 23cm repeater over in the Wollongong area and changing it to Full duplex will require
> > cavity filters. I acquired this one, at a good price a few years ago. Perhaps spares never used.
> > Using 70cm cavities in 3rd overtone is a great idea. 
> >

>
> ---------------------------------------------------
> Alan VK2ZIW
> Before the Big Bang, God, Sela.
> OpenWebMail 2.53, nothing in the cloud.
>
>

---------------------------------------------------
Alan VK2ZIW
Before the Big Bang, God, Sela.
OpenWebMail 2.53, nothing in the cloud.


Re: Heatshrink

Lou Blasco
 

Hi John,

Rather than heat shrink, I use amalgamating Butyl tape which forms an excellent weatherproof barrier that is not sticky to the touch. Even after more than 10 years out in the weather, silver RF connectors are still bright and shiny without a hint of tarnish. To remove, just cut away with a sharp blade. It might be an alternate solution to your non sticky heat shrink.

image.png

Regards

Lou
VK3ALB


On Wed, Apr 7, 2021 at 5:03 AM ian hope (2E0IJH) <ian@...> wrote:
John I use the 3M stuff I also use for work splicing cables, decent amount of glue seems to come out ends and never had a issue with it
 
 
Ian
M5IJH
 
 
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2021 at 7:37 PM
From: "John Lemay" <john@...>
To: UKMicrowaves@groups.io
Subject: [UKMicrowaves] Heatshrink
I've spent part of today tidying up cables and repositioning masthead boxes
on 23, 13 and 9cms. While doing this it became clear that I could make a
better job of it by changing an angle N type to a straight one.

When I stripped back the glued heatshrink I discovered that it had not
adhered to the cable (LDF4-50) at all, and it wasn't much better on the plug
body. It wasn't an eBay cheapo buy, but it wasn't from Andrews/Commscope
either.

Any recommendations for decent quality sticky heatshrink please ?

Thanks

John G4ZTR






 


Re: Heatshrink

ian hope (2E0IJH)
 

John I use the 3M stuff I also use for work splicing cables, decent amount of glue seems to come out ends and never had a issue with it
 
https://www.3m.co.uk/3M/en_GB/electrical-construction-maintenance-uk/solutions/heat-shrink-technology/
 
Ian
M5IJH

 
 
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2021 at 7:37 PM
From: "John Lemay" <john@...>
To: UKMicrowaves@groups.io
Subject: [UKMicrowaves] Heatshrink
I've spent part of today tidying up cables and repositioning masthead boxes
on 23, 13 and 9cms. While doing this it became clear that I could make a
better job of it by changing an angle N type to a straight one.

When I stripped back the glued heatshrink I discovered that it had not
adhered to the cable (LDF4-50) at all, and it wasn't much better on the plug
body. It wasn't an eBay cheapo buy, but it wasn't from Andrews/Commscope
either.

Any recommendations for decent quality sticky heatshrink please ?

Thanks

John G4ZTR






 


Re: Drive level

militaryoperator
 

Depends where you put the resistor in the chain, whether you make the inbuilt attenator greater or smaller.
 


Yes, guess its a matter of adding a resistor or actually, as in this case, reducing a resistor. 
All in the way its phrased obviously. English, a great language. 

BN


Heatshrink

John Lemay
 

I've spent part of today tidying up cables and repositioning masthead boxes
on 23, 13 and 9cms. While doing this it became clear that I could make a
better job of it by changing an angle N type to a straight one.

When I stripped back the glued heatshrink I discovered that it had not
adhered to the cable (LDF4-50) at all, and it wasn't much better on the plug
body. It wasn't an eBay cheapo buy, but it wasn't from Andrews/Commscope
either.

Any recommendations for decent quality sticky heatshrink please ?

Thanks

John G4ZTR


Re: Drive level

ian hope (2E0IJH)
 

Depends where you put the resistor in the chain, whether you make the inbuilt attenator greater or smaller.
 
Ian
M5IJH

 
 
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2021 at 4:17 PM
From: "militaryoperator via groups.io" <Military1944@...>
To: "UKMicrowaves@groups.io" <UKMicrowaves@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [UKMicrowaves] Drive level
 
 
 
 
idea of a simple resistor addition to the attenuator chain.     Many thanks for that idea John.
 
This means I can knock back the 250mW I presently have and also add a TOKO filter for better spectral purity.
 
Regards to all de G8LBS.
 
 
 
Will not add a R mean you need more drive power. I thought you didn't have enough in the first place hence amp Colin?
I find I can't turn my 817 down low enough, bottoms out at about 250mw but seems ok on the 23, 13 and 9 SGL I use. 
 
Ben 
G4BXD
 
 
 
 
 


Re: Drive level

SAM JEWELL
 

Works well with the 50mW from the Iceni 70cm transverter....

73 de Sam, G4DDK



On 6 Apr 2021, at 16:44, Neil Smith G4DBN <neil@...> wrote:



The usual trick, as John mentioned, is to solder a lower-value resistor on top of the existing one that is in series with the variable pot.  Typically in a Kuhne or F6BVA there is a 56 or 68 ohm dummy load resistor across the IF transmit input, then a 470 ohm fixed resistor and a 100 ohm pot.  The wiper of the pot goes to the transmit port of the mixer.

Soldering a 100 ohm resistor on top of the 470 means you can get full output at about 20 mW input instead of 250-500 mW wiht the pot at max gain.

<ejljehaocjblomle.png>

This is the 100 ohm 0805 on top of the 470R

<dimhnalbkmcmjneb.png>

Neil G4DBN

On 06/04/2021 16:17, militaryoperator via groups.io wrote:
idea of a simple resistor addition to the attenuator chain.     Many thanks for that idea John.
 
This means I can knock back the 250mW I presently have and also add a TOKO filter for better spectral purity.
 
Regards to all de G8LBS.
 


Will not add a R mean you need more drive power. I thought you didn't have enough in the first place hence amp Colin?
I find I can't turn my 817 down low enough, bottoms out at about 250mw but seems ok on the 23, 13 and 9 SGL I use. 

Ben 
G4BXD
_.


Re: Drive level

Neil Smith G4DBN
 

The usual trick, as John mentioned, is to solder a lower-value resistor on top of the existing one that is in series with the variable pot.  Typically in a Kuhne or F6BVA there is a 56 or 68 ohm dummy load resistor across the IF transmit input, then a 470 ohm fixed resistor and a 100 ohm pot.  The wiper of the pot goes to the transmit port of the mixer.

Soldering a 100 ohm resistor on top of the 470 means you can get full output at about 20 mW input instead of 250-500 mW wiht the pot at max gain.

This is the 100 ohm 0805 on top of the 470R

Neil G4DBN

On 06/04/2021 16:17, militaryoperator via groups.io wrote:
idea of a simple resistor addition to the attenuator chain.     Many thanks for that idea John.
 
This means I can knock back the 250mW I presently have and also add a TOKO filter for better spectral purity.
 
Regards to all de G8LBS.
 


Will not add a R mean you need more drive power. I thought you didn't have enough in the first place hence amp Colin?
I find I can't turn my 817 down low enough, bottoms out at about 250mw but seems ok on the 23, 13 and 9 SGL I use. 

Ben 
G4BXD
_.


Re: Drive level

militaryoperator
 

idea of a simple resistor addition to the attenuator chain.     Many thanks for that idea John.
 
This means I can knock back the 250mW I presently have and also add a TOKO filter for better spectral purity.
 
Regards to all de G8LBS.
 


Will not add a R mean you need more drive power. I thought you didn't have enough in the first place hence amp Colin?
I find I can't turn my 817 down low enough, bottoms out at about 250mw but seems ok on the 23, 13 and 9 SGL I use. 

Ben 
G4BXD


Re: Drive level

Colin Ranson
 

Will do !

 

 

Colin de G8LBS.

 

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Neil Smith G4DBN
Sent: 06 April 2021 13:39
To: UKMicrowaves@groups.io
Subject: Re: [UKMicrowaves] Drive level

 

...and if it works out nicely, can you take a pic and write a short note so the info can be added to the UKuG wiki on microwavers.org.

 

Neil G4DBN

 

On 6 Apr 2021 13:22, "Gordon REASON via groups.io" <gordonj.reason@...> wrote:

yes , keep it simple , and let us know how you get on   !

On 06 April 2021 at 12:56 Colin Ranson <g8lbs@...> wrote:

Morning all,

 

Thanks for all your suggestions reference 432MHz drive level into my 13/9cm SG-Lab transverters using the available low power from my home brew 28MHz transverter.

 

I did find a 10mW – 3w amplifier in my ‘RF modules’ box but I have now decided to go very simplistic and take up John Lemay’s (G4ZTR) idea of a simple resistor addition to the attenuator chain.     Many thanks for that idea John.

 

This means I can knock back the 250mW I presently have and also add a TOKO filter for better spectral purity.

 

Regards to all de G8LBS.

 

 

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 


 


 

 

 


Re: Snow scatter in IO93

R Hopkins
 

I receive GB3KBQ on a regular basis on my QO100 dish (elevation 25degrees) even if it's not raining
here. Reflections off cumulonimbus-nimbus clouds I reckon. KBQ is strong here at the moment.

Roger GW4NOS

On Tue, 6 Apr 2021 14:18:53 +0100, you wrote:

Sharp snow showers here, so I pointed my 3cm dish upwards and I'm seeing
nice scatter from GB3LEX (normally nil here). Nice bit of scatter
doppler from GB3FNY, 40 degrees off axis and 15 degrees elevated.

Neil G4DBN

http://g4dbn.uk





Snow scatter in IO93

Neil Smith G4DBN
 

Sharp snow showers here, so I pointed my 3cm dish upwards and I'm seeing nice scatter from GB3LEX (normally nil here). Nice bit of scatter doppler from GB3FNY, 40 degrees off axis and 15 degrees elevated.

Neil G4DBN

http://g4dbn.uk


Re: Drive level

Neil Smith G4DBN
 

...and if it works out nicely, can you take a pic and write a short note so the info can be added to the UKuG wiki on microwavers.org.

Neil G4DBN

On 6 Apr 2021 13:22, "Gordon REASON via groups.io" <gordonj.reason@...> wrote:

yes , keep it simple , and let us know how you get on   !

On 06 April 2021 at 12:56 Colin Ranson <g8lbs@...> wrote:

Morning all,

 

Thanks for all your suggestions reference 432MHz drive level into my 13/9cm SG-Lab transverters using the available low power from my home brew 28MHz transverter.

 

I did find a 10mW – 3w amplifier in my ‘RF modules’ box but I have now decided to go very simplistic and take up John Lemay’s (G4ZTR) idea of a simple resistor addition to the attenuator chain.     Many thanks for that idea John.

 

This means I can knock back the 250mW I presently have and also add a TOKO filter for better spectral purity.

 

Regards to all de G8LBS.

 

 

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 


 


 


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