Topics

Tek 2215

Jay
 

The issue comes as that most of the caps are used in the origional ps and the preregulator setup has alot less caps and parts ..The service manual has the schematic and parts list but trying to figure out if it's worth buy all the parts for the upgrade or just rebuild ??? Also what is the difference between a service manual and Operations instruction manual ???

Jay
 

I found this and what to know if this possible and safe to scope ??http://www.hakanh.com/dl/docs/troubleshooting_tips_on_2200_ps.pdf

Tothwolf
 

On Tue, 2 Feb 2016, David @DWH [TekScopes] wrote:
On Mon, 1 Feb 2016 21:40:50 -0600 (CST), you wrote:

Because of the different power supply, some of the parts for your 2215 are going to be different from what I sourced for my 2213 scopes. About 2/3 of it will be the same so I'll see about compiling a list from my various spreadsheets. When I repaired my 2213 scopes, I used Nichicon HE series parts for the secondary filter capacitors. If I were going to source parts today, I might consider using PM series instead for some of them since the physically larger PM parts would probably have a higher ripple current rating.
When using a physically smaller series of aluminum electrolytic capacitors, some or all of the size difference contributing to a lower ripple current rating can be made up for by using a higher voltage part which will be physically larger. This works up to about 100 volts because at about 160 volts, the electrolyte will be different and there is a jump to a higher ESR and lower ripple current rating.
Right, this is what I found when researching replacement parts for the power supply for my 2465B project scope. Tektronix used a variety of capacitors for that power supply based on what seems to have been market availability from several manufacturers but they were all low ESR type parts. I eventually settled on Nichicon PM series parts which are low ESR and also met or exceeded the ripple current rating of the original parts. I couldn't find parts in the more common PW, HE, or HD series which would meet all the specs.

Tothwolf
 

On Tue, 2 Feb 2016, jasontucker70@... [TekScopes] wrote:

I understand the evolment in the power supply upgrade.. Does anyone know the output voltages and current of the power supply upgrade pcb cause I was was thinking about maybe making my very own ps pcb... I have read tgey both have their problems and my ps have alot of caps in the stock configuration and not sure whether to leave stock and install the transitor and trigger mods or upgrade everything????
What do you guys think ??
Personally, I wouldn't bother trying to swap a current limiter setup over to a preregulator. I would rebuild/repair the scope as-is and if I specifically wanted a preregulator scope, I'd look for one already configured that way. To date I've actively avoided 2213/2215 scopes which use the current limiter setup, even when they have been really cheap. You can tell them from the later preregulator versions based on the serial number and if they have a permanently attached power cord. I'm starting to think I probably should have bought one though just so I could have worked up a parts list.

 

That document applies if you ignore the first part about the
preregulator circuit and start at the paragraph which discusses the
inverter.

On 02 Feb 2016 18:06:17 -0800, you wrote:

I found this and what to know if this possible and safe to scope ??http://www.hakanh.com/dl/docs/troubleshooting_tips_on_2200_ps.pdf

Brian <brianclarke01@...>
 

Malcolm Hunter
 

It looks like links to 3 different photos sent in 3 emails. In the 2nd and
3rd emails, Yahoo has done its magic and doubled up the URLs.

Malcolm

On 3 February 2016 at 04:52, 'Brian' brianclarke01@...
[TekScopes] <TekScopes@...> wrote:



Hello Jason,
Perhaps you are unaware that you have sent the link for each photo four
times in each of two identical messages.
I’ve left one of your messages attached so you can see.
73 de Brian, VK2GCE.

On Wednesday, February 03, 2016 3:33 AM, you sent:

Here are the pics of the scope as requested

http://s87.photobucket.com/user/nucklehead_2006/media/20160201_135820_zps1bizbipb.jpg.html
http://s87.photobucket.com/user/nucklehead_2006/media/20160201_135820_zps1bizbipb.jpg.html
http://s87.photobucket.com/user/nucklehead_2006/media/20160201_135820_zps1bizbipb.jpg.html
http://s87.photobucket.com/user/nucklehead_2006/media/20160201_135820_zps1bizbipb.jpg.html

http://s87.photobucket.com/user/nucklehead_2006/media/20160201_135837_zpsewy2peij.jpg.html
http://s87.photobucket.com/user/nucklehead_2006/media/20160201_135837_zpsewy2peij.jpg.html
http://s87.photobucket.com/user/nucklehead_2006/media/20160201_135837_zpsewy2peij.jpg.html
http://s87.photobucket.com/user/nucklehead_2006/media/20160201_135837_zpsewy2peij.jpg.html

http://s87.photobucket.com/user/nucklehead_2006/media/20160201_135828_zpsgscrxoml.jpg.html
http://s87.photobucket.com/user/nucklehead_2006/media/20160201_135828_zpsgscrxoml.jpg.html
http://s87.photobucket.com/user/nucklehead_2006/media/20160201_135828_zpsgscrxoml.jpg.html
http://s87.photobucket.com/user/nucklehead_2006/media/20160201_135828_zpsgscrxoml.jpg.html

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jay
 

My unit doesn't have the mounted cord but has the current limited ps .. The plan was to figure out what the preregulator does and how it works so I can make a copy in order to preform the upgrade.. But I might just rebuild the stock current limit setup.. I have a couple issues with certain caps ,,One is pcb mounted 1800uf 75v cap ..

Jay
 

What did you guys use to replace the 840mf 12 caps ???
Oh I saw they use a a filter on the input and I have a couple laying around and was wondering if that would help the power supply .. Are there any improvements to current limited supply ??

Tothwolf
 

On Wed, 3 Feb 2016, jasontucker70@... [TekScopes] wrote:

What did you guys use to replace the 840mf 12 caps ???
Oh I saw they use a a filter on the input and I have a couple laying around and was wondering if that would help the power supply .. Are there any improvements to current limited supply ??
I believe I used 1000uF in place of the 840uF. I'll post a list once I get a chance to finish compiling it into a single spreadsheet. I've been working on my 2213 scopes in stages for about a year now. When I started, I couldn't find all that much on them and there hasn't been just a whole lot of interest in the original non-A model 2213/2215 scopes.

An EMI/RFI filter won't gain you anything. It was added for FCC compliance for scopes with the preregulator board. IIRC there are already some EMI/RFI filter components on the main board for the current limiter versions of these scopes.

 

The preregulator is just a fancy switching buck converter. It accepts
340 volts DC and converts it to 42.5 volts DC for the inverter. This
voltage is not critical since the inverter itself linearly regulates
the secondary side outputs. Any 42.5 volt power supply can replace
the preregulator.

The earlier design uses a phase controlled TRIAC based preregulator
and the current limit board was necessary for controlled startup and
fault protection.

I agree with Tothwolf; it would be better to repair the oscilloscope
as it is.

On 03 Feb 2016 10:58:54 -0800, you wrote:

My unit doesn't have the mounted cord but has the current limited ps .. The plan was to figure out what the preregulator does and how it works so I can make a copy in order to preform the upgrade.. But I might just rebuild the stock current limit setup.. I have a couple issues with certain caps ,,One is pcb mounted 1800uf 75v cap ..

Jay
 

I know the unit power ons and show a signal but will have to continue further testing to see the unit has any other issues that need to be addressed..My main goal to replace all the cap and do the trigger mod and transformer mod in order to save the CRT.. After some reading I found the Qmod(050-2242-03 http://www.hakanh.com/dl/docs/kitinstructions/050-2242-03.pdf) doesn't apply to me cause I don't have the preregulator pcb but are there any upgrades I can do with my current limited supply unit ?? I know there where some other upgrades posted above that I need to find and write down and make sure if it applies ..

 

I looked at the trigger modifications and found two areas of
improvement:

1. One change involves the automatic peak-to-peak level circuit. This
uses a premade printed circuit board included with the kit but with
care I think you could do this modification by air wiring the circuit.

2. The second change involves how the sweep integration capacitors are
reset.

The kit includes saturated switching transistors like the NPN 2N5769
and PNP MPS3640 which are not going to be easy to find or substitute
for so some experimentation may be required. I would try adding baker
clamps to the sweep reset circuit so that slower transistors can be
used.

I doubt the changes to the trigger and sweep circuits are worth the
trouble but maybe someone in the forum can comment about how much of
an improvement they make.

If there was a modification for the current limiter board, I think
Hakanh would list it so I would not worry about this.

On 04 Feb 2016 06:45:54 -0800, you wrote:

I know the unit power ons and show a signal but will have to continue further testing to see the unit has any other issues that need to be addressed..My main goal to replace all the cap and do the trigger mod and transformer mod in order to save the CRT.. After some reading I found the Qmod(050-2242-03 http://www.hakanh.com/dl/docs/kitinstructions/050-2242-03.pdf) doesn't apply to me cause I don't have the preregulator pcb but are there any upgrades I can do with my current limited supply unit ?? I know there where some other upgrades posted above that I need to find and write down and make sure if it applies ..

Jay
 

Yeah I am not sure on the performance of the trigger upgrade but figured it was needed unless someone has some input . I know there was no mod for current limit supply cause instead of modding they just upgraded to the preregulator supply instead .. My problem is that most of the parts are not available any more to even built the prereg pcb or even replacement parts ..

Jay
 

I got chance to work on the scope today .. The power button is stuck on position and I have it removed from the pcb with no damage but just a little clean up .. I cleaned but I am still trying to a suitable lube for the switch unless someone has a suggestion ?? Then I noticed the bnc resistors are completely charred on both channels.. Will any resistor work or am I better with a precision resistor ?? Should I check any other parts if those resistors are shot ??

Jay
 

Also found a couple other resistors out of spec ..How hard is it to remove the front and pbc behind it for repair ? Is there anything else I should watch out or concerned with when tearing down ???

 

I use this for switches but there are similar products made by other
companies:

http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/cleaners/contact-cleaners/super-contact-cleaner-with-ppe-801b/

The input resistor tolerance is not important but it really should be
carbon composition because it also operates as a fuse. For now a 1/8
watt film resistor should work fine.

This was the closest modern match I found:

http://www.rcdcomponents.com/rcd/rcdpdf/BW-MBW-FA037.pdf

On 05 Feb 2016 12:57:22 -0800, you wrote:

I got chance to work on the scope today .. The power button is stuck on position and I have it removed from the pcb with no damage but just a little clean up .. I cleaned but I am still trying to a suitable lube for the switch unless someone has a suggestion ?? Then I noticed the bnc resistors are completely charred on both channels.. Will any resistor work or am I better with a precision resistor ?? Should I check any other parts if those resistors are shot ??

Tothwolf
 

On Fri, 5 Feb 2016, jasontucker70@... [TekScopes] wrote:

I got chance to work on the scope today .. The power button is stuck on position and I have it removed from the pcb with no damage but just a little clean up .. I cleaned but I am still trying to a suitable lube for the switch unless someone has a suggestion ?? Then I noticed the bnc resistors are completely charred on both channels.. Will any resistor work or am I better with a precision resistor ?? Should I check any other parts if those resistors are shot ??
Are you sure those resistors are bad? The remains of the resistor that was left attached to the junk front panel that I bought for the plastic bezel is molded in black plastic.

Tothwolf
 

On Fri, 5 Feb 2016, jasontucker70@... [TekScopes] wrote:

Also found a couple other resistors out of spec ..How hard is it to remove the front and pbc behind it for repair ? Is there anything else I should watch out or concerned with when tearing down ???
Removing the front panel is incredibly difficult. I removed the plastic bezel from one scope because the original was crushed but I did not remove the aluminum chassis that the board is attached to. I replaced the two electrolytic capacitors on the front panel board, cleaned, and lubricated the controls and switches with the board in place. In order to remove the portion of the aluminum frame that covers the board, you would have to remove the CRT, the knobs, and the plastic bezel (the screws are behind the self-stick control panel overlay).

Jay
 

From: jasontucker70@...


---In TekScopes@..., <tothwolf@...> wrote :

On Fri, 5 Feb 2016, jasontucker70@... mailto:jasontucker70@... [TekScopes] wrote:

> I got chance to work on the scope today .. The power button is stuck on
> position and I have it removed from the pcb with no damage but just a
> little clean up .. I cleaned but I am still trying to a suitable lube
> for the switch unless someone has a suggestion ?? Then I noticed the bnc
> resistors are completely charred on both channels.. Will any resistor
> work or am I better with a precision resistor ?? Should I check any
> other parts if those resistors are shot ??

Are you sure those resistors are bad? The remains of the resistor that was
left attached to the junk front panel that I bought for the plastic bezel
is molded in black plastic.


Yes I know the shot cause the resistor are destroyed and chard the pcb ..
The second 5.6ohm resistors are also out of spec too ..



---In TekScopes@..., <tothwolf@...> wrote :

On Fri, 5 Feb 2016, jasontucker70@... mailto:jasontucker70@... [TekScopes] wrote:

> Also found a couple other resistors out of spec ..How hard is it to
> remove the front and pbc behind it for repair ? Is there anything else
> I should watch out or concerned with when tearing down ???

Removing the front panel is incredibly difficult. I removed the plastic
bezel from one scope because the original was crushed but I did not remove
the aluminum chassis that the board is attached to. I replaced the two
electrolytic capacitors on the front panel board, cleaned, and lubricated
the controls and switches with the board in place. In order to remove the
portion of the aluminum frame that covers the board, you would have to
remove the CRT, the knobs, and the plastic bezel (the screws are behind
the self-stick control panel overlay).

Oh ok and I just wound up just removing knobs and screw and wound up desoldering the bottom pins and just removed the front .. Which wasn't bad since I have a bulb desoldering tool which works pretty good..I am not sure if I want to reuse the original pins again or make new ones from mag wire ..
Side note is it worth it to do the trigger mod while it's already apart ???

http://s87.photobucket.com/user/nucklehead_2006/media/20160207_193323_zpstdmzhss1.jpg.html
http://s87.photobucket.com/user/nucklehead_2006/media/20160207_193335_zps1mergsjp.jpg.html


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Oh with damage should I check any other parts ???