Topics

Bringing up to snuff a Tek 465M


eliya gwetta
 

Hi all,

A few months back I asked about which analog scope to get (my first one).
One post resonated with me and it said that if the display is bright, then
get it, because all old scopes would need some work.

I finally pulled the trigger on a 465m ($115 shipped!). I didn't realize
that the enclosure is made of plastic, but oh well. It survived this long
so it's probably fine.

It seems to work fine, but honestly, I haven't had a chance to really go
through it with the manual. A few quick questions:

1) The knobs are all a little loose. They turn fine, but they're not held
tightly against the front panel. Since they're all loose by the same
amount, and there's no why to tighten them against the front panel, I think
this might have been by design. Was it? Is this how the other scopes in the
465 series are?

2) The handle is immobilized. Is there something that locks it in place?
Right now it's facing the the back of the scope and it will not move down.
I don't want to exert too much force for fear of breaking it.

3) It stinks. I know, that's a weird one, but it kind of smell like a
portable toilet. I don't know if the plastic it's made of just gets funky
with age or if it was left in a stinky environment, but any advice to get
rid of the smell would be highly appreciated!

I will update this thread soon with some more technical, calibration and
operation questions.


Thank you!


John Clark
 

On the other 400 series scopes you push both the round handle mounts inward and then move the handle to the desired position where it will lock into place.

John


2) The handle is immobilized. Is there something that locks it in place?
Right now it's facing the the back of the scope and it will not move down.

I don't want to exert too much force for fear of breaking it.





















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Malcolm Hunter
 

On 13 February 2016 at 20:36, John Clark johnclark05@outlook.com
[TekScopes] <TekScopes@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

On the other 400 series scopes you push both the round handle mounts
inward and then move the handle to the desired position where it will lock
into place.

John
‚ÄčThis is also the case with the 465M.

This was a ruggedized scope for field service, which is why it has an
abundance of rod extensions for the controls rather than having the pots
mounted on the front panel. This does make them feel a bit wobbly. You can
find the exploded diagrams of the mechanical parts in the service manual,
which also shows how the handle is constructed:
http://www.ko4bb.com/manuals/81.104.84.124/Tek_465M_Service_Manual.pdf

Malcolm


Bert Haskins
 

On 2/13/2016 3:32 PM, eliya gwetta eliyag@gmail.com [TekScopes] wrote:

Hi all,

A few months back I asked about which analog scope to get (my first one).
One post resonated with me and it said that if the display is bright, then
get it, because all old scopes would need some work.

I finally pulled the trigger on a 465m ($115 shipped!). I didn't realize
that the enclosure is made of plastic, but oh well. It survived this long
so it's probably fine.

It seems to work fine, but honestly, I haven't had a chance to really go
through it with the manual. A few quick questions:

1) The knobs are all a little loose. They turn fine, but they're not held
tightly against the front panel. Since they're all loose by the same
amount, and there's no why to tighten them against the front panel, I
think
this might have been by design. Was it? Is this how the other scopes
in the
465 series are?

2) The handle is immobilized. Is there something that locks it in place?
Right now it's facing the the back of the scope and it will not move down.
I don't want to exert too much force for fear of breaking it.

3) It stinks. I know, that's a weird one, but it kind of smell like a
portable toilet. I don't know if the plastic it's made of just gets funky
with age or if it was left in a stinky environment, but any advice to get
rid of the smell would be highly appreciated!
FWIW I have had several 465Ms.
I have never noticed any odor and have never heard any comments from
others about any odor.
The reasons I favored the 465M was that it did not have or need a fan
and at that time I was working with large grinding machines.
Scopes with fans would suck in the ever present coolant from the air and
end up with a real mess inside.
There are several entries in the archives about two ecaps... 2.0, 2.2 in
the horizontal power supply that can cause problems.
I replaced these two caps in every one of my 465Ms.

.. Bert


I will update this thread soon with some more technical, calibration and
operation questions.

Thank you!




magnustoelle
 

Good Day,

First off, congratulations to your 465M. I am sure you will enjoy it and it will give you many good years of service soon...

On your question #3):
We recently had a discussion on how to remove tobacco smoke odor. Other users recommended roasted coffee powder.

My personal recommendation is basic window or glass cleaner. Use the foam spray bottle version, as its soaking time is better than the standard version.
I usually apply the cleaner more generously on the housing, and wipe it off with kitchen paper after 10 min. or so. Be careful that the cleaner does not get into any vent holes or similar.
My preferred method is to remove and thoroughly clean the housing/cabinet in a wash basin. Sounds more work in the first place, but it is not, as it also allows you some initial visual inspection and easier cleaning.
A dish brush helps to remove any dirt from the coated cabinet. Rinse with plenty of water, and repeat the process if necessary.
Some "Armor All" spray works nicely on the coated cabinet parts after cleaning and drying.

I would be *very cautious* with knobs and front panels, as the cleaner may dissolve labels or prints - so test it before feeling sorry afterwards.

Some of my o'scopes had some brownish, smelly smear before the cleaning, but they were nice and odor-free afterwards.
I find the repair work a lot more fun when I am working on a device with a clean cabinet.

Good luck,

Magnus


Hi all,

A few months back I asked about which analog scope to get (my first one).
One post resonated with me and it said that if the display is bright, then
get it, because all old scopes would need some work.

I finally pulled the trigger on a 465m ($115 shipped!). I didn't realize
that the enclosure is made of plastic, but oh well. It survived this long
so it's probably fine.

It seems to work fine, but honestly, I haven't had a chance to really go
through it with the manual. A few quick questions:

1) The knobs are all a little loose. They turn fine, but they're not held
tightly against the front panel. Since they're all loose by the same
amount, and there's no why to tighten them against the front panel, I think
this might have been by design. Was it? Is this how the other scopes in the
465 series are?

2) The handle is immobilized. Is there something that locks it in place?
Right now it's facing the the back of the scope and it will not move down.
I don't want to exert too much force for fear of breaking it.

3) It stinks. I know, that's a weird one, but it kind of smell like a
portable toilet. I don't know if the plastic it's made of just gets funky
with age or if it was left in a stinky environment, but any advice to get
rid of the smell would be highly appreciated!

I will update this thread soon with some more technical, calibration and
operation questions.

Thank you!


 

It may be that the input line filter capacitors have blown. Are you in 230 volt land? If so, that is a pretty common failure.

They do stink when they blow and the potting burns.

Regards,
Tom

----- Original Message -----
From: eliya gwetta eliyag@gmail.com [TekScopes]
To: TekScopes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2016 3:32 PM
Subject: [TekScopes] Bringing up to snuff a Tek 465M



Hi all,

A few months back I asked about which analog scope to get (my first one).
One post resonated with me and it said that if the display is bright, then
get it, because all old scopes would need some work.

I finally pulled the trigger on a 465m ($115 shipped!). I didn't realize
that the enclosure is made of plastic, but oh well. It survived this long
so it's probably fine.

It seems to work fine, but honestly, I haven't had a chance to really go
through it with the manual. A few quick questions:

1) The knobs are all a little loose. They turn fine, but they're not held
tightly against the front panel. Since they're all loose by the same
amount, and there's no why to tighten them against the front panel, I think
this might have been by design. Was it? Is this how the other scopes in the
465 series are?

2) The handle is immobilized. Is there something that locks it in place?
Right now it's facing the the back of the scope and it will not move down.
I don't want to exert too much force for fear of breaking it.

3) It stinks. I know, that's a weird one, but it kind of smell like a
portable toilet. I don't know if the plastic it's made of just gets funky
with age or if it was left in a stinky environment, but any advice to get
rid of the smell would be highly appreciated!

I will update this thread soon with some more technical, calibration and
operation questions.

Thank you!


eliya gwetta
 

Thank you for the advice! I will replace those caps in the power supply.

I took the top cover off and washed it, and I think it smells a little better. The bottom is more intricate to remove, so I'll do that when I figure it out.

I'm in the US and the scope turns on and seems to operate correctly (waiting on my probes, so maybe it'll reveal issues later). Also, not seeing any blown caps so far. It looks pretty clean on the inside!


 

The RFI filter is the assembly that the power cord plugs into. Sometimes there is no evidence they have failed that you can see.

----- Original Message -----
From: eliyag@gmail.com [TekScopes]
To: TekScopes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2016 5:10 PM
Subject: [TekScopes] Re: Bringing up to snuff a Tek 465M



Thank you for the advice! I will replace those caps in the power supply.

I took the top cover off and washed it, and I think it smells a little better. The bottom is more intricate to remove, so I'll do that when I figure it out.

I'm in the US and the scope turns on and seems to operate correctly (waiting on my probes, so maybe it'll reveal issues later). Also, not seeing any blown caps so far. It looks pretty clean on the inside!


Dave Daniel
 

About a year ago, I started brewing ales again after a very long hiatus, and was amazed to find out about the advancements made in cleaning and sterilization. One of the products that I discovered, now commonly used, is named "Professional Brewer's Wash", or PBW. I have since discovered that PBW will remove tobacco residue like nothing else. I have soaked many covers and knobs in it with success (the one exception seems to be that the paint used on Heathkit SB-line front panels is made brittle by PBW - that experiment went bad). For large surfaces that are not easily submerged in a sink, I heat up some water in a beaker, add PBW and soak some of those blue industrial-strength paper towels in the hot water, I then put the soaked paper towels on the surface to be cleaned (I pat them down so that there are no air bubbles) and leave them for several hours. It works very well. I can usually rinse the dissolved tobacco grime off with water. Once in a while I have to do this twice, but in the end I always get clean surfaces.

DaveD

On 2/13/2016 2:24 PM, 'Toelle, Magnus' magnustoelle@yahoo.com [TekScopes] wrote:
Good Day,

First off, congratulations to your 465M. I am sure you will enjoy it and
it will give you many good years of service soon...

On your question #3):
We recently had a discussion on how to remove tobacco smoke odor. Other
users recommended roasted coffee powder.

My personal recommendation is basic window or glass cleaner. Use the
foam spray bottle version, as its soaking time is better than the
standard version.
I usually apply the cleaner more generously on the housing, and wipe it
off with kitchen paper after 10 min. or so. Be careful that the cleaner
does not get into any vent holes or similar.
My preferred method is to remove and thoroughly clean the
housing/cabinet in a wash basin. Sounds more work in the first place,
but it is not, as it also allows you some initial visual inspection and
easier cleaning.
A dish brush helps to remove any dirt from the coated cabinet. Rinse
with plenty of water, and repeat the process if necessary.
Some "Armor All" spray works nicely on the coated cabinet parts after
cleaning and drying.

I would be *very cautious* with knobs and front panels, as the cleaner
may dissolve labels or prints - so test it before feeling sorry afterwards.

Some of my o'scopes had some brownish, smelly smear before the cleaning,
but they were nice and odor-free afterwards.
I find the repair work a lot more fun when I am working on a device with
a clean cabinet.

Good luck,

Magnus
Hi all,

A few months back I asked about which analog scope to get (my first one).
One post resonated with me and it said that if the display is bright, then
get it, because all old scopes would need some work.

I finally pulled the trigger on a 465m ($115 shipped!). I didn't realize
that the enclosure is made of plastic, but oh well. It survived this long
so it's probably fine.

It seems to work fine, but honestly, I haven't had a chance to really go
through it with the manual. A few quick questions:

1) The knobs are all a little loose. They turn fine, but they're not held
tightly against the front panel. Since they're all loose by the same
amount, and there's no why to tighten them against the front panel, I
think
this might have been by design. Was it? Is this how the other scopes
in the
465 series are?

2) The handle is immobilized. Is there something that locks it in place?
Right now it's facing the the back of the scope and it will not move down.
I don't want to exert too much force for fear of breaking it.

3) It stinks. I know, that's a weird one, but it kind of smell like a
portable toilet. I don't know if the plastic it's made of just gets funky
with age or if it was left in a stinky environment, but any advice to get
rid of the smell would be highly appreciated!

I will update this thread soon with some more technical, calibration and
operation questions.

Thank you!

------------------------------------

------------------------------------


------------------------------------

Yahoo Groups Links



Ed Breya
 

Regarding de-stinking chemicals, see message #124530 for a simple cheap solution. Ed


eliya gwetta
 

Thanks, Tom. I smelled around the filter, and it doesn't seem like the smell is coming from there. However, that's not an accurate way of testing if the caps failed. How should i test it? Doesn't seem like you could take the filter apart.

I will look into Professional Brewer's Wash, Dave. Also, is there a way to search for a message by its number? I was trying to find the post Ed was referring to, but couldn't.

Lastly, I got my probes and ran some signals into the scope. I fed one channel a sine and I was getting some "bleed" on the screen. It's minimal and I don't think it's something I'll be able to see from across the room, but it'll be nice to get it fixed. Is that more likely to be a CRT issue or an electrical problem?

Thanks!


eliya gwetta
 

Thank you, Tom. I couldn't smell anything coming from the filter. However, that's not a very accurate way of seeing if the caps inside went. How can I test it? Doesn't seem like it's possible to take it apart.

I look into Professional Brewer's Wash, Dave. Thanks!

Also, how can I search for a specific message? I was trying to find the topic Ed referred to, but couldn't.

Lastly, I was quickly testing it by feeding it some signals. I was getting some "bleed" on the screen. That is, I fed one channel with a sine, and I was getting a bit of a bleed. It's not that big a deal, I think, because I won't see it from across the room. Also, it doesn't bother me much. But is this an electrical issue or a CRT issue?

Thanks again!


Ed Breya
 

Searching by message number is very easy. There is a box on the page to search by # shown whenever all the group messages are listed - like when you click "see all." It's the easiest way I know of for referring back to old stuff.

Ed
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/TekScopes/conversations/messages/124530


 

Do you mean "cross talk" between two channels? Check the tightness of all the screws.
If not, take a video and post on youtube.

Tom

----- Original Message -----
From: eliyag@gmail.com [TekScopes]
To: TekScopes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2016 7:37 PM
Subject: [TekScopes] Re: Bringing up to snuff a Tek 465M



Thank you, Tom. I couldn't smell anything coming from the filter. However, that's not a very accurate way of seeing if the caps inside went. How can I test it? Doesn't seem like it's possible to take it apart.

I look into Professional Brewer's Wash, Dave. Thanks!

Also, how can I search for a specific message? I was trying to find the topic Ed referred to, but couldn't.

Lastly, I was quickly testing it by feeding it some signals. I was getting some "bleed" on the screen. That is, I fed one channel with a sine, and I was getting a bit of a bleed. It's not that big a deal, I think, because I won't see it from across the room. Also, it doesn't bother me much. But is this an electrical issue or a CRT issue?

Thanks again!


eliya gwetta
 

My apologies for sending the same message twice. I didn't think it went the first time.

Tom, here's a video of the screen as I turn the intensity. The probe is inserted into the calibration "port":
https://youtu.be/0qielKd25RE https://youtu.be/0qielKd25RE

Ed, is hydrogen peroxide safe to use on plastic? Is it safe to use on the front panel of the 465M or will it ruin the lettering?

One more question: Under "vert mode" there's the button for "20Mhz bw" and "trig view". How many position does this switch have? On mine, it seems like two position. One is when I pull it out to cut the bandwidth. Then I can push it back and I assume that this restores the full bandwidth. Then I can push it further in but it won't latch. In other words, it's more like a momentary switch at that position. Is this normal?

Thanks again!


 

If you have the front panel protective cover, you can stand the scope in its face & then slide the cabinet straight up & off.
 HankC, Boston WA1HOS


 

Yes. Push in to see the trigger view. It is a momentary switch.

----- Original Message -----
From: eliyag@gmail.com [TekScopes]
To: TekScopes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2016 3:47 PM
Subject: [TekScopes] Re: Bringing up to snuff a Tek 465M



My apologies for sending the same message twice. I didn't think it went the first time.

Tom, here's a video of the screen as I turn the intensity. The probe is inserted into the calibration "port":
https://youtu.be/0qielKd25RE https://youtu.be/0qielKd25RE

Ed, is hydrogen peroxide safe to use on plastic? Is it safe to use on the front panel of the 465M or will it ruin the lettering?

One more question: Under "vert mode" there's the button for "20Mhz bw" and "trig view". How many position does this switch have? On mine, it seems like two position. One is when I pull it out to cut the bandwidth. Then I can push it back and I assume that this restores the full bandwidth. Then I can push it further in but it won't latch. In other words, it's more like a momentary switch at that position. Is this normal?

Thanks again!


eliya gwetta
 

Thank you, Tom!

Hank, unfortunately no front cover, but even so, I don't see how the plastic cabinet would slide off easily!


Bill (Doc) Courtright
 

Hank, Tom, the 465M has a clamshel cover and the motherboard is fastened directly to the bottom half.
Bill,
KB3DKS

-----Original Message-----

Thank you, Tom!

Hank, unfortunately no front cover, but even so, I don't see how the plastic cabinet would slide off easily!


Bert Haskins
 

On 2/15/2016 10:32 PM, Doxemf doxemf@aol.com [TekScopes] wrote:

Hank, Tom, the 465M has a clamshel cover and the motherboard is
fastened directly to the bottom half.
Bill,
KB3DKS

-----Original Message-----

Thank you, Tom!

Hank, unfortunately no front cover, but even so, I don't see how the
plastic cabinet would slide off easily!
Slide!.. you rotate the four plastic buttons to release and then lift
the cover off.
I wipe a tiny bit of Dove into the button thread before putting the
cover back on.