Solder Sucker Recommendation?


Philip McIntosh
 

I have been using an old Soldapullt solder sucker I refurbished to work on boards. It has been working pretty well up until recently. It just doesn't seem to have enough umph to really pull the solder out of the holes. I end up getting most of it out but not enough to free the lead. I then heat it up some more and pull on the device from the other side. Then I put some solder on the land with the device removed and then the solder sucker will usually clean it out.

Is this as good as can be hoped for on these old boards and solder or is there a better way? Does any one have a recommendation for a good solder sucker or other desoldering method than I have described for removing components while preserving the integrity of the board and lands?

Thanks,

Phil...


teamlarryohio
 

What are you using for an iron?
-ls-

"Philip" <ndpmcintosh@mac.com> wrote:

I have been using an old Soldapullt solder sucker I refurbished to
work on boards. It has been working pretty well up until recently. It
just doesn't seem to have enough umph to really pull the solder out of
the holes. I end up getting most of it out but not enough to free the
lead. I then heat it up some more and pull on the device from the
other side. Then I put some solder on the land with the device removed
and then the solder sucker will usually clean it out.

Is this as good as can be hoped for on these old boards and solder or
is there a better way? Does any one have a recommendation for a good
solder sucker or other desoldering method than I have described for
removing components while preserving the integrity of the board and
lands?

Thanks,

Phil...



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Abdul Nizar
 

While the Hakko 808 is not cheap, it works like a charm, and makes the process almost fun.

 

http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_808.html

 

 

From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf Of Philip
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 4:28 PM
To: TekScopes@...
Subject: [TekScopes] Solder Sucker Recommendation?

 

 

I have been using an old Soldapullt solder sucker I refurbished to work on boards. It has been working pretty well up until recently. It just doesn't seem to have enough umph to really pull the solder out of the holes. I end up getting most of it out but not enough to free the lead. I then heat it up some more and pull on the device from the other side. Then I put some solder on the land with the device removed and then the solder sucker will usually clean it out.

Is this as good as can be hoped for on these old boards and solder or is there a better way? Does any one have a recommendation for a good solder sucker or other desoldering method than I have described for removing components while preserving the integrity of the board and lands?

Thanks,

Phil...


 

Maybe it is time to refurbish the vacuum source or the heating
capacity is low. I have been using a Weller DS227 vacuum desoldering
head to great effect. It takes 3 to 4 seconds per pin on any size DIP
part which just falls out when I am done.

On Tue, 07 May 2013 23:28:05 -0000, "Philip" <ndpmcintosh@mac.com>
wrote:

I have been using an old Soldapullt solder sucker I refurbished to work on boards. It has been working pretty well up until recently. It just doesn't seem to have enough umph to really pull the solder out of the holes. I end up getting most of it out but not enough to free the lead. I then heat it up some more and pull on the device from the other side. Then I put some solder on the land with the device removed and then the solder sucker will usually clean it out.

Is this as good as can be hoped for on these old boards and solder or is there a better way? Does any one have a recommendation for a good solder sucker or other desoldering method than I have described for removing components while preserving the integrity of the board and lands?

Thanks,

Phil...


Ken, WA2LBI
 

Phil,

You say you refurbished the 'sucker.  Did you clean the chamber, the metal rod, "piston", and spring?  How about replacing the rubber compression ring?  Did you lube the piston/compression ring?  Replace the tip?  I have done all of those steps on mine that I have had since the 1970s and it still works fine.

I recently acquired a Hakko 808 vacuum desoldering tool and several tips as a birthday present (MUCH more useful than a neck tie!!!) .  It is not inexpensive but it is well worth the money if you do a lot of repair work.  It has the advantage of requiring only one hand to heat and remove the solder and, in most cases, completely clean the through hole on both sides of a PCB.  Also, the barrel and tip of the '808 is about the same size as a soldering iron so it can get into small spaces that would not accommodate both a solder sucker AND a soldering iron side by side.  I wish I got the Hakko years ago...

Ken
WA2LBI


On Tue, May 7, 2013 at 7:28 PM, Philip <ndpmcintosh@mac.com> wrote:
I have been using an old Soldapullt solder sucker I refurbished to work on boards. It has been working pretty well up until recently. It just doesn't seem to have enough umph to really pull the solder out of the holes. I end up getting most of it out but not enough to free the lead. I then heat it up some more and pull on the device from the other side. Then I put some solder on the land with the device removed and then the solder sucker will usually clean it out.

Is this as good as can be hoped for on these old boards and solder or is there a better way? Does any one have a recommendation for a good solder sucker or other desoldering method than I have described for removing components while preserving the integrity of the board and lands?

Thanks,

Phil...


Philip McIntosh
 

I completely cleaned it inside and out (I do that before every major job), replaced the o-ring and use silicone grease. I'll look into the Hakko stuff. Thanks.

--- In TekScopes@yahoogroups.com, Ken Winterling <wa2lbi@...> wrote:

Phil,

You say you refurbished the 'sucker. Did you clean the chamber, the metal
rod, "piston", and spring? How about replacing the rubber compression
ring? Did you lube the piston/compression ring? Replace the tip? I have
done all of those steps on mine that I have had since the 1970s and it
still works fine.

I recently acquired a Hakko 808 vacuum desoldering tool and several tips as
a birthday present (MUCH more useful than a neck tie!!!) . It is not
inexpensive but it is well worth the money if you do a lot of repair work.
It has the advantage of requiring only one hand to heat and remove the
solder and, in most cases, completely clean the through hole on both sides
of a PCB. Also, the barrel and tip of the '808 is about the same size as a
soldering iron so it can get into small spaces that would not accommodate
both a solder sucker AND a soldering iron side by side. I wish I got the
Hakko years ago...

Ken
WA2LBI


On Tue, May 7, 2013 at 7:28 PM, Philip <ndpmcintosh@...> wrote:

I have been using an old Soldapullt solder sucker I refurbished to work on
boards. It has been working pretty well up until recently. It just doesn't
seem to have enough umph to really pull the solder out of the holes. I end
up getting most of it out but not enough to free the lead. I then heat it
up some more and pull on the device from the other side. Then I put some
solder on the land with the device removed and then the solder sucker will
usually clean it out.

Is this as good as can be hoped for on these old boards and solder or is
there a better way? Does any one have a recommendation for a good solder
sucker or other desoldering method than I have described for removing
components while preserving the integrity of the board and lands?

Thanks,

Phil...


Larry McDavid
 

It is difficult to beat the performance of a Hakko 808 De-Soldering Gun, available even on Amazon. With the vacuum pump located in the gun, there is no air flow restriction within a long hose to a bench-mounted vacuum source. Frankly, the Hakko 808 gun has *serious* suck! I've not found anything better for through-hole de-soldering.

Larry


On 5/7/2013 4:28 PM, Philip wrote:
I have been using an old Soldapullt solder sucker I refurbished to work
on boards. It has been working pretty well up until recently. It just
doesn't seem to have enough umph to really pull the solder out of the
holes. I end up getting most of it out but not enough to free the lead.
I then heat it up some more and pull on the device from the other side.
Then I put some solder on the land with the device removed and then the
solder sucker will usually clean it out.

Is this as good as can be hoped for on these old boards and solder or is
there a better way? Does any one have a recommendation for a good solder
sucker or other desoldering method than I have described for removing
components while preserving the integrity of the board and lands?
...

--
Best wishes,

Larry McDavid W6FUB
Anaheim, California (SE of Los Angeles, near Disneyland)


Paul Kraemer <elespe@...>
 

Ditto my comments
One of the most useful de-solder devices ever made and one heck uv a big iron if you ever need one for serious heavy soldering
I've had mine for several years. Love it!
Paul K0UYA

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 7:20 PM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Solder Sucker Recommendation?

 

It is difficult to beat the performance of a Hakko 808 De-Soldering Gun,
available even on Amazon. With the vacuum pump located in the gun, there
is no air flow restriction within a long hose to a bench-mounted vacuum
source. Frankly, the Hakko 808 gun has *serious* suck! I've not found
anything better for through-hole de-soldering.

Larry

On 5/7/2013 4:28 PM, Philip wrote:
> I have been using an old Soldapullt solder sucker I refurbished to work
> on boards. It has been working pretty well up until recently. It just
> doesn't seem to have enough umph to really pull the solder out of the
> holes. I end up getting most of it out but not enough to free the lead.
> I then heat it up some more and pull on the device from the other side.
> Then I put some solder on the land with the device removed and then the
> solder sucker will usually clean it out.
>
> Is this as good as can be hoped for on these old boards and solder or is
> there a better way? Does any one have a recommendation for a good solder
> sucker or other desoldering method than I have described for removing
> components while preserving the integrity of the board and lands?
...

--
Best wishes,

Larry McDavid W6FUB
Anaheim, California (SE of Los Angeles, near Disneyland)


Philip McIntosh
 

I recently bought an X-Tronic 9020-XTS rework station and that is what I have been using. I generally like it.

When I got it, I experimented on an old scrap board (not a Tek though) with the temperature and have been running it at about 352°C with a fairly large wedge tip. What temperatures are other people using?

Anything less than that and it does not seem to liquify the solder very well. I note that the solder on these 25-30 year old boards does not seem to melt as easily as it does on newer boards. I also touch up the joint with a little fresh solder before attempting to desolder. Maybe I need different solder. Recommendations on that would be welcome too.

I have some repair jobs coming up and don't want to dive in until I am sure of my method and materials.

Phil...
*****

--- In TekScopes@yahoogroups.com, larrys@... wrote:

What are you using for an iron?
-ls-


Don Black <donald_black@...>
 

I'm intrigued by how small they can now make a 420 watt power supply now. eBay item 280783317481.

Don Black.

On 08-May-13 10:20 AM, Larry McDavid wrote:
 

It is difficult to beat the performance of a Hakko 808 De-Soldering Gun,
available even on Amazon. With the vacuum pump located in the gun, there
is no air flow restriction within a long hose to a bench-mounted vacuum
source. Frankly, the Hakko 808 gun has *serious* suck! I've not found
anything better for through-hole de-soldering.

Larry

On 5/7/2013 4:28 PM, Philip wrote:
> I have been using an old Soldapullt solder sucker I refurbished to work
> on boards. It has been working pretty well up until recently. It just
> doesn't seem to have enough umph to really pull the solder out of the
> holes. I end up getting most of it out but not enough to free the lead.
> I then heat it up some more and pull on the device from the other side.
> Then I put some solder on the land with the device removed and then the
> solder sucker will usually clean it out.
>
> Is this as good as can be hoped for on these old boards and solder or is
> there a better way? Does any one have a recommendation for a good solder
> sucker or other desoldering method than I have described for removing
> components while preserving the integrity of the board and lands?
...

--
Best wishes,

Larry McDavid W6FUB
Anaheim, California (SE of Los Angeles, near Disneyland)



stefan_trethan
 

They just need a few watts at low voltage for the fan and control circuit, the heater voltage is fed straight through.

ST


On Wed, May 8, 2013 at 6:35 AM, Don Black <donald_black@...> wrote:


I'm intrigued by how small they can now make a 420 watt power supply now. eBay item 280783317481.

Don Black.


 

A triac can control many watts and does not take up much space. Plus, it is a 240 volt unit so the current is not that high. Just look at the size of a lamp dimmer.
 
-Tom
 
 

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2013 12:50 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Solder Sucker Recommendation?

 

They just need a few watts at low voltage for the fan and control circuit, the heater voltage is fed straight through.

ST

On Wed, May 8, 2013 at 6:35 AM, Don Black <donald_black@...> wrote:


I'm intrigued by how small they can now make a 420 watt power supply now. eBay item 280783317481.

Don Black.


Dave C <davec2468@...>
 

Phil,
Throw out (or into a drawer -- they're always useful in some situation) the hand solder sucker. Get a Hakko (or Chinese knock-off) vacuum desolder iron. You'll curse yourself that you didn't do it much sooner.

This is the type Hakko I have (with the pencil-type iron, not the pistol grip, but that's a personal preference):

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=hakko+%28472%2C473%29+-%28tip%2Cnozzle%2Cfilter%29&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=hakko+%28472%2C473%29+-%28tip%2Cnozzle%2Cfilter%2Chose%29&_sacat=0

I got mine for around US$100 on ebay.

It is so fast and simple to use it's ALMOST -- as someone else said -- fun!

Cheers,
Dave

-=-=-=-

On May 7, 2013, at 4:28 PM, Philip wrote:

Is this as good as can be hoped for on these old boards and solder or is there a better way? Does any one have a recommendation for a good solder sucker or other desoldering method than I have described for removing components while preserving the integrity of the board and lands?

Thanks,

Phil...


John Miles
 

ROFLMAO!  They should raise our fire insurance premiums just for visiting that page!

 

-- john, KE5FX

 

From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf Of Don Black
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 9:35 PM
To: TekScopes@...
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Solder Sucker Recommendation?

 

 

I'm intrigued by how small they can now make a 420 watt power supply now. eBay item 280783317481.

Don Black.

On 08-May-13 10:20 AM, Larry McDavid wrote:

 

It is difficult to beat the performance of a Hakko 808 De-Soldering Gun,
available even on Amazon. With the vacuum pump located in the gun, there
is no air flow restriction within a long hose to a bench-mounted vacuum
source. Frankly, the Hakko 808 gun has *serious* suck! I've not found
anything better for through-hole de-soldering.

Larry

On 5/7/2013 4:28 PM, Philip wrote:
> I have been using an old Soldapullt solder sucker I refurbished to work
> on boards. It has been working pretty well up until recently. It just
> doesn't seem to have enough umph to really pull the solder out of the
> holes. I end up getting most of it out but not enough to free the lead.
> I then heat it up some more and pull on the device from the other side.
> Then I put some solder on the land with the device removed and then the
> solder sucker will usually clean it out.
>
> Is this as good as can be hoped for on these old boards and solder or is
> there a better way? Does any one have a recommendation for a good solder
> sucker or other desoldering method than I have described for removing
> components while preserving the integrity of the board and lands?
...

--
Best wishes,

Larry McDavid W6FUB
Anaheim, California (SE of Los Angeles, near Disneyland)

 


Mark Wendt <mark.wendt@...>
 

On 05/07/2013 07:28 PM, Philip wrote:
I have been using an old Soldapullt solder sucker I refurbished to work on boards. It has been working pretty well up until recently. It just doesn't seem to have enough umph to really pull the solder out of the holes. I end up getting most of it out but not enough to free the lead. I then heat it up some more and pull on the device from the other side. Then I put some solder on the land with the device removed and then the solder sucker will usually clean it out.

Is this as good as can be hoped for on these old boards and solder or is there a better way? Does any one have a recommendation for a good solder sucker or other desoldering method than I have described for removing components while preserving the integrity of the board and lands?

Thanks,

Phil...
Phil,

A few folks have gotten their hands on a Hakko 808 and like it. I've got an older Hakko 472 desoldering station, and it works very well for me. Check out the Hakko stuff on Ebay and see if you might be interested.

Mark


Mark Wendt <mark.wendt@...>
 

On 05/07/2013 08:20 PM, Larry McDavid wrote:

<snippage>
Frankly, the Hakko 808 gun has *serious* suck! I've not found
anything better for through-hole de-soldering.

Larry
Larry,

Even better than the "Prince of Darkness" electronics? ;-)

Mark


Brad Thompson <brad.thompson@...>
 

On 5/8/2013 5:33 AM, John Miles wrote:
ROFLMAO! They should raise our fire insurance premiums just for
visiting that page!

-- john, KE5FX
Hello--

Nah... those are Chinese watts<g>.

73--

Brad AA1IP


Robert Simpson
 

Looks like part of the secret is 220V.
Bob

--- In TekScopes@yahoogroups.com, Don Black <donald_black@...> wrote:

I'm intrigued by how small they can now make a 420 watt power supply
now. eBay item 280783317481.

Don Black.

On 08-May-13 10:20 AM, Larry McDavid wrote:

It is difficult to beat the performance of a Hakko 808 De-Soldering Gun,
available even on Amazon. With the vacuum pump located in the gun, there
is no air flow restriction within a long hose to a bench-mounted vacuum
source. Frankly, the Hakko 808 gun has *serious* suck! I've not found
anything better for through-hole de-soldering.

Larry

On 5/7/2013 4:28 PM, Philip wrote:
I have been using an old Soldapullt solder sucker I refurbished to work
on boards. It has been working pretty well up until recently. It just
doesn't seem to have enough umph to really pull the solder out of the
holes. I end up getting most of it out but not enough to free the lead.
I then heat it up some more and pull on the device from the other side.
Then I put some solder on the land with the device removed and then the
solder sucker will usually clean it out.

Is this as good as can be hoped for on these old boards and solder or is
there a better way? Does any one have a recommendation for a good solder
sucker or other desoldering method than I have described for removing
components while preserving the integrity of the board and lands?
...

--
Best wishes,

Larry McDavid W6FUB
Anaheim, California (SE of Los Angeles, near Disneyland)


Dave C <davec2468@...>
 

On May 7, 2013, at 5:32 PM, Philip wrote:

I recently bought an X-Tronic 9020-XTS rework station and that is what I have been using. I generally like it.


mosaicmerc
 

Ok, Ok,I broke down and ordered the Hakko.Now I have a $180 sized hole in my CC.
I explained to the wife....about multilayer PCBs and vias and so forth. Then I pointed to the 5 HP printers and 3 AOC CRT monitors, a TASCAM DAT player and a Daewoo surround sound player which I have to scrap for useful bits.
Then we talked about the 2465A....and how it would be a shame to damage it while restoring it.

At least she's still making dinner....

;)

--- In TekScopes@yahoogroups.com, "Abdul Nizar" <abduln@...> wrote:

While the Hakko 808 is not cheap, it works like a charm, and makes the
process almost fun.



http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_808.html





From: TekScopes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:TekScopes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Philip
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 4:28 PM
To: TekScopes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [TekScopes] Solder Sucker Recommendation?





I have been using an old Soldapullt solder sucker I refurbished to work on
boards. It has been working pretty well up until recently. It just doesn't
seem to have enough umph to really pull the solder out of the holes. I end
up getting most of it out but not enough to free the lead. I then heat it up
some more and pull on the device from the other side. Then I put some solder
on the land with the device removed and then the solder sucker will usually
clean it out.

Is this as good as can be hoped for on these old boards and solder or is
there a better way? Does any one have a recommendation for a good solder
sucker or other desoldering method than I have described for removing
components while preserving the integrity of the board and lands?

Thanks,

Phil...