Can you remember how many times those small set screws with the internal hex have aggravated you on your Tektronix and other equipment? Recently I was trying to take a 576 curve tracer apart without ruining anything. Someone else had already made a mess of the screws, including some failed "drilling" attempts on two screws. In the course of getting everything apart, I thought about how awful the ordinary hex wrenches were with their rounded tips on the somewhat soft steel hex, and what a mess it made of the screws when they spun in the hex hole of the screw. I thought... I need to find some high quality hex wrenches, but where could I get them? Then I remembered some people I used to work with that were into radio control scale model cars that were of very high quality and mostly held together with internal hex set screws. These people worked on their cars a lot, and surely they didn't not put up with those normal junk hex wrenches. So I found a good radio control model car shop within an hour's driving distance and went to see what they had to sell. They had several brands of higher quality hex wrenches, all of which were made like a screw driver with the handle in line with the hex tip. The ones I liked the best were made by the "Losi" radio control model company and this store sold them in individual sizes as well as sets of four(?). The set screws that are most common and give me the most grief use .050" and 1/16 (.0625") hex wrenches, so I bought one each of them. Replacement bits are sold for these tools, and these bits are ground from solid heat treated tool steel and have very sharp corners on the hex. These hex wrenches work great, and it came out that the radio control car companies sell high quality set screws too. Some of these set screws are available in a hardened condition, and all of this stuff is available on eBay. I bought some hardened Losi brand 4-40 screws on eBay and they arrived today, very nice! When you tighten any of the new screws with a better wrench, they feel very positive with no hint of it "stripping" the hex. These hex wrenches were a bit pricey but in hindsight worth every penny. Do any of you have any knowledge of the radio control model world? I've lost contact with those people I used to work with and I don't know anyone else to ask. Perhaps there are better hex tools and fasteners available? tom jobe... PS I was hoping that the smaller size screws were available as "Torx" spline drive screws, but it does not look like anyone makes them. These high quality hex tools are also available in metric sizes.
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Bondhus and Wiha are quality hex key brands available worldwide. A lot of damage happens (even in my US lab) from folks trying to use the nearest metric size rather than the intended .050 or 1/16 inch . You can get good setscrews in the US from McMaster-Carr, Grainger or MSC for example. Don't be temptedto change to stainless (say, because originals rusted). It's intrinsically softer. Stick with hardened black steel, e.g., http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-set-screws/=8lc0q1There are some special places where what is actually called for is a "spline" key, a tiny forerunner of Torx. These can be harder to find, in the old days they were supplied with counting pot dials (which is where you usually find you need one, say on the delay time 10-turn).
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--- In TekScopes@..., "tom jobe" <tomjobe@...> wrote: Can you remember how many times those small set screws with the internal hex have aggravated you on your Tektronix and other equipment? Recently I was trying to take a 576 curve tracer apart without ruining anything. Someone else had already made a mess of the screws, including some failed "drilling" attempts on two screws. In the course of getting everything apart, I thought about how awful the ordinary hex wrenches were with their rounded tips on the somewhat soft steel hex, and what a mess it made of the screws when they spun in the hex hole of the screw. I thought... I need to find some high quality hex wrenches, but where could I get them? Then I remembered some people I used to work with that were into radio control scale model cars that were of very high quality and mostly held together with internal hex set screws. These people worked on their cars a lot, and surely they didn't not put up with those normal junk hex wrenches. So I found a good radio control model car shop within an hour's driving distance and went to see what they had to sell. They had several brands of higher quality hex wrenches, all of which were made like a screw driver with the handle in line with the hex tip. The ones I liked the best were made by the "Losi" radio control model company and this store sold them in individual sizes as well as sets of four(?). The set screws that are most common and give me the most grief use .050" and 1/16 (.0625") hex wrenches, so I bought one each of them. Replacement bits are sold for these tools, and these bits are ground from solid heat treated tool steel and have very sharp corners on the hex. These hex wrenches work great, and it came out that the radio control car companies sell high quality set screws too. Some of these set screws are available in a hardened condition, and all of this stuff is available on eBay. I bought some hardened Losi brand 4-40 screws on eBay and they arrived today, very nice! When you tighten any of the new screws with a better wrench, they feel very positive with no hint of it "stripping" the hex. These hex wrenches were a bit pricey but in hindsight worth every penny. Do any of you have any knowledge of the radio control model world? I've lost contact with those people I used to work with and I don't know anyone else to ask. Perhaps there are better hex tools and fasteners available? tom jobe... PS I was hoping that the smaller size screws were available as "Torx" spline drive screws, but it does not look like anyone makes them. These high quality hex tools are also available in metric sizes.
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Dave Brown <tractorb@...>
Xcelite PS-89. I see there's one on the bay just now for $50.
DaveB, NZ
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----- Original Message ----- From: "tom jobe" <tomjobe@...> To: "TekScopes" <TekScopes@...> Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 12:18 PM Subject: [TekScopes] Set screw/grub screw thoughts Can you remember how many times those small set screws with the internal hex have aggravated you on your Tektronix and other equipment? Recently I was trying to take a 576 curve tracer apart without ruining anything. Someone else had already made a mess of the screws, including some failed "drilling" attempts on two screws. In the course of getting everything apart, I thought about how awful the ordinary hex wrenches were with their rounded tips on the somewhat soft steel hex, and what a mess it made of the screws when they spun in the hex hole of the screw. I thought... I need to find some high quality hex wrenches, but where could I get them? Then I remembered some people I used to work with that were into radio control scale model cars that were of very high quality and mostly held together with internal hex set screws. These people worked on their cars a lot, and surely they didn't not put up with those normal junk hex wrenches. So I found a good radio control model car shop within an hour's driving distance and went to see what they had to sell. They had several brands of higher quality hex wrenches, all of which were made like a screw driver with the handle in line with the hex tip. The ones I liked the best were made by the "Losi" radio control model company and this store sold them in individual sizes as well as sets of four(?). The set screws that are most common and give me the most grief use .050" and 1/16 (.0625") hex wrenches, so I bought one each of them. Replacement bits are sold for these tools, and these bits are ground from solid heat treated tool steel and have very sharp corners on the hex. These hex wrenches work great, and it came out that the radio control car companies sell high quality set screws too. Some of these set screws are available in a hardened condition, and all of this stuff is available on eBay. I bought some hardened Losi brand 4-40 screws on eBay and they arrived today, very nice! When you tighten any of the new screws with a better wrench, they feel very positive with no hint of it "stripping" the hex. These hex wrenches were a bit pricey but in hindsight worth every penny. Do any of you have any knowledge of the radio control model world? I've lost contact with those people I used to work with and I don't know anyone else to ask. Perhaps there are better hex tools and fasteners available? tom jobe... PS I was hoping that the smaller size screws were available as "Torx" spline drive screws, but it does not look like anyone makes them. These high quality hex tools are also available in metric sizes.
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Yahoo! Groups Links
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Sears sells a small package containing two hex wrenches, 1/16 and 0.50. They do not have a ball end. It is black hardened steel and Craftsman, so guaranteed for life. Around $5.
I purchased a few sets and the first set is still in fine shape after loosening thousands of Tek set screws. I have never stripped one hex yet.
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It's a bit over priced then, as test equipment depot has that set for $30.
Regards, David Partridge
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-----Original Message----- From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf Of Dave Brown Sent: 28 August 2010 01:55 To: TekScopes@... Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Set screw/grub screw thoughts
Xcelite PS-89. I see there's one on the bay just now for $50.
DaveB, NZ
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Dave Brown <tractorb@...>
I bought mine quite some years ago - so no idea of what current price is- just mentioned the ebay listing as I had a quick look there when I posted the info. Ebay is generally a 'place of last resort' as far as I'm concerned!! $30 sounds OK to me.
Regards DaveB, NZ
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----- Original Message ----- From: "David C. Partridge" <david.partridge@...> To: <TekScopes@...> Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 6:49 PM Subject: RE: [TekScopes] Set screw/grub screw thoughts It's a bit over priced then, as test equipment depot has that set for $30.
Regards, David Partridge -----Original Message----- From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf Of Dave Brown Sent: 28 August 2010 01:55 To: TekScopes@... Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Set screw/grub screw thoughts
Xcelite PS-89. I see there's one on the bay just now for $50.
DaveB, NZ
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Jerry Massengale <jmassen418@...>
Hi,
I just ordered a set from amazon for $28 with shipping.
jerry
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--- On Sat, 8/28/10, David C. Partridge wrote:
From: David C. Partridge Subject: RE: [TekScopes] Set screw/grub screw thoughts To: TekScopes@... Date: Saturday, August 28, 2010, 1:49 AM
It's a bit over priced then, as test equipment depot has that set for $30. Regards, David Partridge -----Original Message----- From: TekScopes@... [mailto: TekScopes@...] On Behalf Of Dave Brown Sent: 28 August 2010 01:55 To: TekScopes@...Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Set screw/grub screw thoughts Xcelite PS-89. I see there's one on the bay just now for $50. DaveB,
NZ
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ROLYNN PRECHTL K7DFW
I just ordered a set from amazon for $28 with shipping. =====================
Why that's one of them thar new fangled compact versions marketed under Xcelite PS-89 or PS-89V. Maybe it's supposed to be the "green" version of the real tool.
The original long reach version, Xcelite 99PS40, is still available.
Like with many things, size does make a difference especially when it's something like a flexible coupling buried so deep it can hardly be seen. Make up your own horror story and ask yourself which one you want, the short or the long version.
K7DFW
..._._
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Peter Gottlieb <hpnpilot@...>
I doubt "green" has anything to do with it. Ideally you should have both long and short as they have different uses. The long is good for getting into deep places like you mentioned, but the short is less springy so you can apply more torque and thus better chance of loosening tight screws.
Peter
ROLYNN PRECHTL K7DFW wrote:
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I just ordered a set from amazon for $28 with shipping. =====================
Why that's one of them thar new fangled compact versions marketed under Xcelite PS-89 or PS-89V. Maybe it's supposed to be the "green" version of the real tool.
The original long reach version, Xcelite 99PS40, is still available.
Like with many things, size does make a difference especially when it's something like a flexible coupling buried so deep it can hardly be seen. Make up your own horror story and ask yourself which one you want, the short or the long version.
K7DFW
..._._
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Good tools are always worth some spending, given the time it takes to remove only a single ruined screw.
European and US quality tool brands are quite different, but snap-on is another international brand which springs to mind. I have also worked with Xcelite tools in the past and always found them nice quality...
I have also invested some Euros for a SAE/non-metric set of hench wrenches from Wiha. A good set of these is a must-have for anyone into Tek scopes (and other US-made T&M equipment).
Cheers,
Magnus
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--- In TekScopes@..., "tom jobe" <tomjobe@...> wrote: Can you remember how many times those small set screws with the internal hex have aggravated you on your Tektronix and other equipment? Recently I was trying to take a 576 curve tracer apart without ruining anything. Someone else had already made a mess of the screws, including some failed "drilling" attempts on two screws. In the course of getting everything apart, I thought about how awful the ordinary hex wrenches were with their rounded tips on the somewhat soft steel hex, and what a mess it made of the screws when they spun in the hex hole of the screw. I thought... I need to find some high quality hex wrenches, but where could I get them? Then I remembered some people I used to work with that were into radio control scale model cars that were of very high quality and mostly held together with internal hex set screws. These people worked on their cars a lot, and surely they didn't not put up with those normal junk hex wrenches. So I found a good radio control model car shop within an hour's driving distance and went to see what they had to sell. They had several brands of higher quality hex wrenches, all of which were made like a screw driver with the handle in line with the hex tip. The ones I liked the best were made by the "Losi" radio control model company and this store sold them in individual sizes as well as sets of four(?). The set screws that are most common and give me the most grief use .050" and 1/16 (.0625") hex wrenches, so I bought one each of them. Replacement bits are sold for these tools, and these bits are ground from solid heat treated tool steel and have very sharp corners on the hex. These hex wrenches work great, and it came out that the radio control car companies sell high quality set screws too. Some of these set screws are available in a hardened condition, and all of this stuff is available on eBay. I bought some hardened Losi brand 4-40 screws on eBay and they arrived today, very nice! When you tighten any of the new screws with a better wrench, they feel very positive with no hint of it "stripping" the hex. These hex wrenches were a bit pricey but in hindsight worth every penny. Do any of you have any knowledge of the radio control model world? I've lost contact with those people I used to work with and I don't know anyone else to ask. Perhaps there are better hex tools and fasteners available? tom jobe... PS I was hoping that the smaller size screws were available as "Torx" spline drive screws, but it does not look like anyone makes them. These high quality hex tools are also available in metric sizes.
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ROLYNN PRECHTL K7DFW
but the short is less springy so you can apply more torque and thus better chance of loosening tight screws. =========================== The advantage of the short hex key is recognized. What I don't understand is the reasoning behind spending $30, or more, on a Xcelite PS-89 set when a $7 to $8 Bondhus 10932 8 piece set will do the same thing. It's short vs. short at one quarter of the price. Rolynn
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Peter Gottlieb <hpnpilot@...>
*shrug*
I have simply used little L allen wrenches and haven't had a problem except for someone's already wrecked the screw.
Peter
ROLYNN PRECHTL K7DFW wrote:
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but the short is less springy so you can apply more torque and thus better chance of loosening tight screws. ===========================
The advantage of the short hex key is recognized.
What I don't understand is the reasoning behind spending $30, or more, on a Xcelite PS-89 set when a $7 to $8 Bondhus 10932 8 piece set will do the same thing. It's short vs. short at one quarter of the price.
Rolynn
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Peter Gottlieb <hpnpilot@...>
*shrug*
I have simply used little L allen wrenches and haven't had a problem except for someone's already wrecked the screw.
Peter
ROLYNN PRECHTL K7DFW wrote:
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but the short is less springy so you can apply more torque and thus better chance of loosening tight screws. ===========================
The advantage of the short hex key is recognized.
What I don't understand is the reasoning behind spending $30, or more, on a Xcelite PS-89 set when a $7 to $8 Bondhus 10932 8 piece set will do the same thing. It's short vs. short at one quarter of the price.
Rolynn
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Jerry Massengale <jmassen418@...>
Hi,
I have a long Xelite 1/16" that I have been using for at least 5 years and it is still better than some new junk I have bought since. It is long enough that I can file away the bad tip if it ever fails. I have no handle for the 1/16" tool and it is very good at hiding. This new kit(PS89) may be easier to find.
jerry
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--- On Sat, 8/28/10, Peter Gottlieb wrote:
From: Peter Gottlieb Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Set screw/grub screw thoughts To: TekScopes@... Date: Saturday, August 28, 2010, 11:44 AM
I doubt "green" has anything to do with it. Ideally you should have both long and short as they have different uses. The long is good for getting into deep places like you mentioned, but the short is less springy so you can apply more torque and thus better chance of loosening tight screws. Peter ROLYNN PRECHTL K7DFW wrote: > > > I just ordered a set from amazon for $28 with shipping. > ===================== > > Why that's one of them thar new fangled compact versions marketed under > Xcelite PS-89 or PS-89V. Maybe it's supposed to be the "green" version of > the real tool. > > The original long reach version, Xcelite 99PS40, is still available. > > Like with many things, size does make a difference especially when it's > something like a flexible coupling buried so deep it can hardly be seen. > Make up your own
horror story and ask yourself which one you want, the > short > or the long version. > > K7DFW > > ..._._ > > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TekScopes/<*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TekScopes/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: TekScopes-digest@...
TekScopes-fullfeatured@...<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: TekScopes-unsubscribe@...<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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Filing it is not a good idea, you'll need a new file. Instead grind it, keeping it cool with water or the temper is gone.
One more reason why I don't like ball ended allen screwdrivers, apart from the built in failure point, is that you can't shorten them to get a new tip. I feel there should be no need for ball ended screwdrivers since any engineer who designs a screw without straight access should have the screwdriver pushed up his you-know-what, and not one with a ball end either...
Generally I am not a big fan of allen screws, cross section of driver is too thin compared to thread and angle of force too high.
ST
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On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 8:54 PM, Jerry Massengale <jmassen418@...> wrote:
Hi,
I have a long Xelite 1/16" that I have been using for at least 5 years and it is still better than some new junk I have bought since. It is long enough that I can file away the bad tip if it ever fails. I have no handle for the 1/16" tool and it is very good at hiding. This new kit(PS89) may be easier to find.
jerry --- On Sat, 8/28/10, Peter Gottlieb <hpnpilot@...> wrote:
From: Peter Gottlieb <hpnpilot@...>
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Set screw/grub screw thoughts
To: TekScopes@... Date: Saturday, August 28, 2010, 11:44 AM
I doubt "green" has anything to do with it. Ideally you should have both long and short as they have different uses. The long is good for getting into deep places like you mentioned, but the short is less springy so
you can apply more torque and thus better chance of loosening tight screws. Peter ROLYNN PRECHTL K7DFW wrote: > > > I just ordered a set from amazon for $28 with shipping. > =====================
> > Why that's one of them thar new fangled compact versions marketed under > Xcelite PS-89 or PS-89V. Maybe it's supposed to be the "green" version of > the real tool. > > The original long reach version, Xcelite 99PS40, is still available.
> > Like with many things, size does make a difference especially when it's > something like a flexible coupling buried so deep it can hardly be seen. > Make up your own
horror story and ask yourself which one you want, the > short > or the long version. > > K7DFW > > ..._._ > > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TekScopes/<*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional
<*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TekScopes/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email:
TekScopes-digest@...
TekScopes-fullfeatured@...<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
TekScopes-unsubscribe@...<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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When working at Tek, I was introduced to the Air-Tuf brand of 1/4" hex bits. For six years, I used the same #1 and #2 Pozidriv bits with no wear at all. Same with the Phillips bits, which are predisposed to wear that the Pozidriv versions aren't.
I also have a set of Xcelite Allens and a set of Xcelite Bristol wrenches. Those of you who have worked on some Philco radios made in the 1940s or the Collins R-390 receiver know about the Bristol drive, which resembles teeny, tiny power take-off on tractors. Sometimes, you can get a Bristol to jam into a worn Allen and get it to turn.
Another trick is to get a next-size-larger Allen wrench and use a file or grinder to gently taper the faces to a "variable" size that can be jammed into a set screw as you turn.
Don't forget that you may find a Torx size that will nestle tighter into a worn Allen recess.
Dean
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Jerry Massengale <jmassen418@...>
Hi,
A new grinder is on my wish list. I used my dremel tool last time. There is one set screw on 7B53A's that is so small, I don't know what size it is. Luckily I have a tiny L wrench that fits it. I keep a piece of yellow heat shrink on it to find it better.
Jerry
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--- On Mon, 8/30/10, Stefan Trethan wrote:
From: Stefan Trethan Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Set screw/grub screw thoughts To: TekScopes@... Date: Monday, August 30, 2010, 3:27 PM
Filing it is not a good idea, you'll need a new file. Instead grind it, keeping it cool with water or the temper is gone. One more reason why I don't like ball ended allen screwdrivers, apart from the built in failure point, is that you can't shorten them to get a new tip. I feel there should be no need for ball ended screwdrivers since any engineer who designs a screw without straight access should have the screwdriver pushed up his you-know-what, and not one with a ball end either... Generally I am not a big fan of allen screws, cross section of driver is too thin compared to thread and angle of force too high. ST
On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 8:54 PM, Jerry Massengale <jmassen418@...> wrote:
Hi,
I have a long Xelite 1/16" that I have been using for at least 5 years and it is still better than some new junk I have bought since. It is long enough that I can file away the bad tip if it ever fails. I have no handle for the 1/16" tool and it is very good at hiding. This new kit(PS89) may be easier to find.
jerry --- On Sat, 8/28/10, Peter Gottlieb <hpnpilot@...> wrote:
From: Peter Gottlieb <hpnpilot@...>
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Set screw/grub screw thoughts
To: TekScopes@... Date: Saturday, August 28, 2010, 11:44 AM
I doubt "green" has anything to do with it. Ideally you should have both long and short as they have different uses. The long is good for getting into deep places like you mentioned, but the short is less springy so you can apply more torque and thus better chance of loosening tight screws. Peter ROLYNN PRECHTL K7DFW wrote: > > > I just ordered a set from amazon for $28 with shipping. > ===================== > > Why that's one of them thar new fangled compact versions marketed under > Xcelite PS-89 or PS-89V. Maybe it's supposed to be the "green" version of > the real tool. > > The original long reach version, Xcelite 99PS40, is still available. > > Like with many things, size does make a difference especially when it's > something like a flexible coupling buried so deep it can hardly be seen. > Make up your own horror story and ask
yourself which one you want, the > short > or the long version. > > K7DFW > > ..._._ > > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TekScopes/<*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TekScopes/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: TekScopes-digest@...
TekScopes-fullfeatured@...<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: TekScopes-unsubscribe@...<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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Stefan,
With a 3 INCH wrench.
Leon K5JLR
Political Correctness is a Political Disease. K5JLR
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--- On Mon, 8/30/10, Stefan Trethan wrote: From: Stefan Trethan Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Set screw/grub screw thoughts To: TekScopes@... Date: Monday, August 30, 2010, 3:27 PM
Filing it is not a good idea, you'll need a new file. Instead grind it, keeping it cool with water or the temper is gone.
One more reason why I don't like ball ended allen screwdrivers, apart from the built in failure point, is that you can't shorten them to get a new tip. I feel there should be no need for ball ended screwdrivers since any engineer who designs a screw without straight access should have the screwdriver pushed up his you-know-what, and not one with a ball end either...
Generally I am not a big fan of allen screws, cross section of driver is too thin compared to thread and angle of force too high.
ST
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Jerry,
My very small L hex for that set screw looks like a 3/64 size. These hex are from my father's collection. He worked in a machine shop so they ordered industrial grade tools. Wish I knew the brand.
Bob
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--- On Mon, 8/30/10, Jerry Massengale wrote:
From: Jerry Massengale Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Set screw/grub screw thoughts To: TekScopes@... Date: Monday, August 30, 2010, 3:34 PM
Hi,
A new grinder is on my wish list. I used my dremel tool last time. There is one set screw on 7B53A's that is so small, I don't know what size it is. Luckily I have a tiny L wrench that fits it. I keep a piece of yellow heat shrink on it to find it better.
Jerry
--- On Mon, 8/30/10, Stefan Trethan wrote:
From: Stefan Trethan Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Set screw/grub screw thoughts To: TekScopes@... Date: Monday, August 30, 2010, 3:27 PM
Filing it is not a good idea, you'll need a new file. Instead grind it, keeping it cool with water or the temper is gone. One more reason why I don't like ball ended allen screwdrivers, apart from the built in failure point, is that you can't shorten them to get a new tip. I feel there should be no need for ball ended screwdrivers since any engineer who designs a screw without straight access should have the screwdriver pushed up his you-know-what, and not one with a ball end either... Generally I am not a big fan of allen screws, cross section of driver is too thin compared to thread and angle of force too high. ST
On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 8:54 PM, Jerry Massengale <jmassen418@...> wrote:
Hi,
I have a long Xelite 1/16" that I have been using for at least 5 years and it is still better than some new junk I have bought since. It is long enough that I can file away the bad tip if it ever fails. I have no handle for the 1/16" tool and it is very good at hiding. This new kit(PS89) may be easier to find.
jerry --- On Sat, 8/28/10, Peter Gottlieb <hpnpilot@...> wrote:
From: Peter Gottlieb <hpnpilot@...>
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Set screw/grub screw thoughts
To: TekScopes@... Date: Saturday, August 28, 2010, 11:44 AM
I doubt "green" has anything to do with it. Ideally you should have both long and short as they have different uses. The long is good for getting into deep places like you mentioned, but the short is less springy so you can apply more torque and thus better chance of loosening tight screws. Peter ROLYNN PRECHTL K7DFW wrote: > > > I just ordered a set from amazon for $28 with shipping. > ===================== > > Why that's one of them thar new fangled compact versions marketed under > Xcelite PS-89 or PS-89V. Maybe it's supposed to be the "green" version of > the real tool. > > The original long reach version, Xcelite 99PS40, is still available. > > Like with many things, size does make a difference especially when it's > something like a flexible coupling buried so deep it can hardly be seen. > Make up your own horror story and ask
yourself which one you want, the > short > or the long version. > > K7DFW > > ..._._ > > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TekScopes/<*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TekScopes/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: TekScopes-digest@...
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