Date
1 - 20 of 21
2% Silver
|
John Griessen
On 6/21/20 10:35 AM, sdturne@q.com wrote:
Wow, that's a great price too. I hope it's not counterfeit...as Mouser is selling the stuff for over $100/lb.Specifications Brand: Kester Series: 245 Core Type: Activated Rosin Flux Core Wire Diameter: 0.031 in Lead Content: 36 % Elemental Composition: Sn/Pb/Ag Flux Percent: 1.1% Total Composition: Sn62/Pb36/Ag02 Solder Weight: 1 lb https://www.rshughes.com/p/Kester-245-Lead-Solder-Wire-1-Lb-0-031-In-Wire-Diameter-Sn-Pb-Ag-Compound-36-Lead-Content-24-7150-8800/24_7150_8800/ -- John
|
|
|
|
snapdiode <snapdiode@...>
Boy am I happy I have my spools of Radio Shack Silver Solder!
Hoarding pays off, kids!
|
|
|
|
stevenhorii
I have heard that the major reason that the small spool of solder in the
500-series Tek scopes was usually gone because of its silver content. A scrapper once told me that the ceramic terminal strips that Tek used had silver fused to the grooves and was a reason that some scrappers would buy up the older Tek scopes. I'm not sure the labor to retrieve that silver would be worth it, but some scrappers went through the trouble. The couple of spools of silver-bearing solder that I have I purchased surplus years ago. I don't recall if Kester or Multicore had the silver content listed or if you needed to know the Kester product number to figure it out. Steve H. On Sun, Jun 21, 2020 at 3:39 PM snapdiode via groups.io <snapdiode= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Boy am I happy I have my spools of Radio Shack Silver Solder!
|
|
|
|
The Radio Shack silver-bearing solder is back! You can order it from
radioshack.com. Not cheap, but most of us won't need a huge amount of it. On Sun, Jun 21, 2020 at 3:39 PM snapdiode via groups.io <snapdiode= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Boy am I happy I have my spools of Radio Shack Silver Solder!
|
|
|
|
J Mcvein
Just like the clipped in tuning tools, extender cards and Allen wrenches, the
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
little solder spools end up in the toolbox of the first tech who works on it. The scrap value of a Tek item is that the wiring strips away from the Al chassis so easily. Ooh..And all those audio triodes! JimMc
-----Original Message-----
From: "stevenhorii" <sonodocsch@...> Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2020 4:00pm To: TekScopes@groups.io Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2% Silver I have heard that the major reason that the small spool of solder in the 500-series Tek scopes was usually gone because of its silver content. A scrapper once told me that the ceramic terminal strips that Tek used had silver fused to the grooves and was a reason that some scrappers would buy up the older Tek scopes. I'm not sure the labor to retrieve that silver would be worth it, but some scrappers went through the trouble. The couple of spools of silver-bearing solder that I have I purchased surplus years ago. I don't recall if Kester or Multicore had the silver content listed or if you needed to know the Kester product number to figure it out. Steve H. On Sun, Jun 21, 2020 at 3:39 PM snapdiode via groups.io <snapdiode= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Boy am I happy I have my spools of Radio Shack Silver Solder!
|
|
|
|
Reginald Beardsley
I bought a spool of 2% silver solder in preparation for reviving a 545, but the 545 went away during a move from Dallas to Houston.
I still have the solder, so if anyone needs a few feet, email me with an address and I'll stick some in an envelope. While it seems highly unlikely I'll need the solder myself, I'm not very good at predicting the future. So I don't want to get rid of the whole roll. But for anyone other than someone with an OCD complex about restoring old tube era Tek gear 3 ft should be enough solder. Have Fun! Reg
|
|
|
|
John Ferguson
Those spools of solder are funny - in our sort of use they last a lifetime. I still have at least 80% of the spool I bought in 2005 to build my Elecraft K2-100 and the antenna tuner. All the projects since then have been little - using a foot or two each.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
john ferguson
On 6/21/20 5:27 PM, Reginald Beardsley via groups.io wrote:
I bought a spool of 2% silver solder in preparation for reviving a 545, but the 545 went away during a move from Dallas to Houston.
|
|
|
|
I purchased a 1 lb roll of Multicore 2% at of all things a farm equipment
show 4-5 years ago for $3.00! No one wanted because it was too thin. You just never know where stuff like this is going to show up. I will probably bite the bullet and buy a new roll when I need it. It makes some of the prettiest joints you've ever seen. I use it on everything. On the other end of the spectrum is lead free and unless I have to work on something that is already lead free I'm just not buying it or using it. Awful awful stuff. randy.ab9go@... This message sent to you from my mobile device via speech-to-text technology.
|
|
|
|
Chuck Harris <cfharris@...>
The tektronix solder is definitely not lead free, and you definitely
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
do not want to be using lead free solder on the terminal strips in a tektronix 500 series scope. The Kester Sn62 solder makes beautiful joints, though. -Chuck Harris Randy.AB9GO wrote:
I purchased a 1 lb roll of Multicore 2% at of all things a farm equipment
|
|
|
|
Monty Montgomery
On Sun, Jun 21, 2020 at 6:29 PM Randy.AB9GO <randy.ab9go@...> wrote:
On the otherThere's a million different kinds. Some are good enough I don't miss lead, though time will tell if the joints hold up. Currently trying out the new germanium doped varieties. Anyone else tried those? And then, of course, there's bismuth.... Collect a few different types and you can do four complete hands-off reflow passes to assemble boards with components on both sides! Useful for hybrid attenuator assemblies. Still shouldn't mix any of it though, especially not with leaded joints. Monty
|
|
|
|
Bismuth + lead is definitely a no-fly zone. Such an alloy can have a VERY
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
low melting point, well below 100C, possibly low enough that solder joints will melt in normal use. On the other hand, keeping some bismuth solder paste around is very handy if you ever do rework of modern RoHS boards. SAC305 and similar alloys can be challenging to rework because of their high melting points. Add a bit of bismuth and you now have a joint that is easier and safer to rework and where you can do it without disturbing other nearby solder joints. Bismuth-based solder doesn't normally contain copper but the presence of copper in joints is not a problem. The most common alloy is Sn42Bi58; there are also versions where a small amount of silver is included. I haven't tried the germanium-doped solder yet. I have been using a lead-free solder with a bit of antimony for a long time, and I find it a bit easier to work with than standard SAC305. Mine was a hamfest find years ago; SparkFun now sells a similar solder.
On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 1:21 AM Monty Montgomery <xiphmont@...> wrote:
On Sun, Jun 21, 2020 at 6:29 PM Randy.AB9GO <randy.ab9go@...> wrote:On the otherawful
|
|
|
|
David Kuhn
"The tektronix solder is definitely not lead free, and you definitely
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
do not want to be using lead free solder on the terminal strips in a tektronix 500 series scope. " Hello Chuck. I thought they used "silver" solder on those? Is that not lead free? If not, what does "Silver" solder mean? Sorry, just curious. Dave
On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 12:07 AM Chuck Harris <cfharris@...> wrote:
The tektronix solder is definitely not lead free, and you definitely
|
|
|
|
Roy Morgan <k1lky68@...>
Reg,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I have a 545B and a 547, and would very much appreciate Getting a bit of the solder. Thank you for the offer. Roy Morgan PO Box 101 Bernardston MA. 01337
On Jun 21, 2020, at 5:27 PM, Reginald Beardsley via groups.io <pulaskite@...> wrote:
|
|
|
|
Colin Herbert
"Silver Solder" is a hard solder used in making mechanical joints such as in jewellery. It melts at a relatively high temperature and is akin to brazing, i.e. "hard soldering". It contains silver, copper and zinc and maybe a little cadmium to get a lower melting-point. The "silver bearing" solder is akin to soft solder (used in making electrical joints) and contains a relatively low proportion of silver.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Colin.
-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of David Kuhn Sent: 22 June 2020 12:32 To: TekScopes@groups.io Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2% Silver "The tektronix solder is definitely not lead free, and you definitely do not want to be using lead free solder on the terminal strips in a tektronix 500 series scope. " Hello Chuck. I thought they used "silver" solder on those? Is that not lead free? If not, what does "Silver" solder mean? Sorry, just curious. Dave On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 12:07 AM Chuck Harris <cfharris@...> wrote: The tektronix solder is definitely not lead free, and you definitely
|
|
|
|
David Kuhn
" The "silver bearing" solder is akin to soft solder (used in making
electrical joints) and contains a relatively low proportion of silver." Is that the type that was included inside the old 500 series scopes for repairs? I understand that regular lead solder was not good for those ceramic component strips in the scopes? Did it keep the plating from unbounding to the ceramic? If that roll of solder is missing from the scopes (and most likely is), what solder should be used for repairs? I always thought it was some sort of silver solder? It must still contain lead. On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 7:52 AM Colin Herbert via groups.io <colingherbert= blueyonder.co.uk@groups.io> wrote: "Silver Solder" is a hard solder used in making mechanical joints such as
|
|
|
|
Matt
Reg,
I would like to take you up on your generous offer. I could not figure out your e-mail address so I couldn't PM you. Thanks! Matt
|
|
|
|
David Holland
Yes, It is "leaded" (soft) silver solder.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
My understanding is the plating is silver based, and if you dilute the joint too much, by using un-silvered solder, then the plating will become unstuck. This is the stuff I bought for working on silver strips: (I bought mine from PE, they're local.) https://www.parts-express.com/wbt-0800-silver-solder-4-silver-content-1-8-lb--093-586 https://www.amazon.com/WBT-0800-Silver-Solder-Content/dp/B00125OCVU MSDS is here: https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/more-info/wbt-08-series-silver-solder-4-percent-silver-content-msds.pdf Its chock full of Tin, Lead, Silver, Bismuth, Antimony, and Induim. All the things,a growing ceramic strip needs.... :-) (Try to ignore the audio-phool verbiage on the PE page. Audio-Phools are PE's primary market, but I'd rather have them around, catering to them, than not here at all.) David
On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 9:00 AM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:
" The "silver bearing" solder is akin to soft solder (used in making
|
|
|
|
Glenn Little
Regular tin/lead solder will leach the silver out of the ceramic, over time.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
The silver is added to the alloy to prevent this leaching. IIRC Tektronix used an alloy with 3% silver. The common alloy that can be found today is 2% silver. Serves the same purpose. On the same note, ERSIN made a solder called save-a-bit when soldering irons had a copper tip. They added copper to the alloy to prevent the erosion of the tip from the normal lead/tin alloy. Glenn
On 6/22/2020 8:59 AM, David Kuhn wrote:
" The "silver bearing" solder is akin to soft solder (used in making --
----------------------------------------------------------------------- Glenn Little ARRL Technical Specialist QCWA LM 28417 Amateur Callsign: WB4UIV wb4uiv@... AMSAT LM 2178 QTH: Goose Creek, SC USA (EM92xx) USSVI LM NRA LM SBE ARRL TAPR "It is not the class of license that the Amateur holds but the class of the Amateur that holds the license"
|
|
|
|
Colin Herbert
"On the same note, ERSIN made a solder called save-a-bit when soldering irons had a copper tip.
They added copper to the alloy to prevent the erosion of the tip from the normal lead/tin alloy. Glenn" I think I remember it as Ersin "Savbit". Incidentally, soldering-iron tips are _still_ made from copper, it is just that they are now given a plating of iron, which prevents the copper from being dissolved by the molten solder (allegedly). Such bits should not be filed to renew the tip, because that removes the protective iron plating. The problem is, we all do it when our bits become pitted, but perhaps such filing is limited to the very end of the bit? I suspect that most common solder used in electronics still contains a little copper. Colin.
|
|
|
|
Chuck Harris <cfharris@...>
A little background information:
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Tektronix made its own ceramic terminal strips. Before they made them, they made their own micarta strips with riveted turret posts. I'm guessing that one of the workers, possibly one of the women on the assembly line, had some experience making ceramic pottery, and got the idea. It is an obvious thought progression: plastic insulates, but burns when soldered, need something that doesn't burn... wait! Ceramic doesn't burn... They found that they could with very little effort, mass produce the ceramic strips more quickly, and at a much lower cost than the riveted turret strips, so they economized. One of the interesting characteristics of silver metal is it will fuse with alumina ceramic at high temperature. Tektronix molded the terminal strips, and then painted each notch with a flaked silver metal paint. When they fired the ceramic, the binder in the paint burned away, and the silver metal "tinned" the ceramic, just like solder tins copper. Nature abhors a vacuum. When ordinary 60:40 tin/lead solder (the standard for electronics assembly at the time) is used to solder the strips, the molten solder dissolves a little of the silver into solution, forming a tin/silver/lead alloy that is very similar to the alloy of tin/silver/lead that tektronix used in their factory. If the tin/lead reaches the ceramic, the silver will instantly be rejected from the ceramic, and you lose your mechanical attachment of the parts to the terminal strip. You can use ordinary 60:40 tin lead solder to rework a joint on the terminal strips, but each time you heat the joint, and apply more tin/lead solder, more of the silver will alloy with the solder, and quicker than you would like, it will no longer stick to the ceramic, as tin/lead/silver can not "tin" alumina ceramic. The whole idea behind using tin/silver/lead alloy solder is that it already has quite a lot of silver in it, and will not leach away the silver on the ceramic terminals as quickly as it would if it had no silver already in the alloy. But mark my words, even if you do use the correct silver solder, if you dawdle with a hot iron on the joint, you can still destroy the bond of the silver to the ceramic. So, use a high wattage (50-70W), temperature regulated to 600-700F iron with a flat sided chisel tip, and get in, get done, and get out of the joint. And, do not ever put the chisel tip in the notch, trying to heat the lead that way, it will crack the ceramic every time. Put one of the flats of the chisel tip on the side of the terminal strip, and let the adjacent flat, or the tip, touch the lead, and heat the joint that way. Stay out of the notch! -Chuck Harris David Kuhn wrote:
"The tektronix solder is definitely not lead free, and you definitely
|
|
|