576 Curve Tracer FET Adapter Differences


Mlynch001
 

Can anyone explain why the 013-0099-02 FET adapter only has 5 pins on the back while the 013-0099-00 has 6 pins? Looking for instructions and cannot find them. I cannot make the right side of -02 work on my 576 or 577. While -00 connects to all 6 jacks of the tracer; the 02 does not connect the right side of the adapter (S - source) to the right side emitter jack of the curve tracer. Please help my feeble mind understand. What am I missing?

Thanks!
--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, AR


Dan G
 

013-0098-02 is the same: only five pins. The emitter sockets on the curve tracer
should be permanently tied together (regardless of the position of the selector
switch), so two emitter pins are not needed on the adapter.

Perhaps there is a wiring fault in your 576 standard test fixture? Or there may
be a wiring fault in your -02 adapter. I have a 577/177, and can confirm that the
emitter sockets are shorted.

I don't have a 576, but the service manual shows the two sockets being shorted
there as well.


dan


Michael W. Lynch
 

Dan,

Thanks for the quick reply! I did not think to look at the service manual. The curve tracer is working properly as it will test transistors and diodes perfectly on both left and right sides. I have since found that the right side Fixture Drain pin connection is open, so the fault it is in the adapter. Is there any way to open this adapter? It appears to be sealed and non-serviceable. I appreciate you getting back to me as I was having problems making the pieces of the puzzle fit together.

Sincerely,

--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, AR


Dan G
 

On Tue, Jun 8, 2021 at 10:00 PM, Michael W. Lynch wrote:

Is there any way to open this adapter? It appears to be sealed and
non-serviceable.
That is odd. Every adapter I've seen (both 013-0098 and 013-0099) has
a set of six 5/64" hex head screws accessible from the bottom of the
adapter. Perhaps Tektronix switched to a snap-in design at some
late stage without changing the part number? If so, I wouldn't hazard
a guess on how to open the enclosure without damage.

If you do manage to open the plastic enclosure, I do have one word
of warning: the PCB inside is probably sitting on a set of six very thin
pins that protrude from the rear ends of the banana plugs. If you need to
remove the PCB, lift it very carefully and evenly upwards, so as to avoid
tilting the PCB and breaking the pins. I find that one end of an IC puller
works well to slowly work around the edges of the PCB as it is
gradually pulled up.

Best of luck,
dan


Michael W. Lynch
 

Dan,

You are correct! Upon closer examination, what first looked like small rivets were actually shallow headed hex screws. I was able to get it apart. Upon opening the unit, it was then possible to gently push the PC board down and the little ferrule would make connection while you held slight down pressure. So I knew something was amiss. After carefully pulling the PC board, I found that one of those little pins that you were speaking of had been previously broken off and was already completely missing. So there was no connection at one pin. I was able to rig up a suitable repair and make the thing work. Now it operates as it should. THANK YOU for the good advice.

Sincerely,

--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, AR