Topics

non-gumming oil


Richard Knoppow
 

I am not so sure about what additives there are in engine oil. One can get good quality SAE 20 machine oil at many hardware stores. 3-in-one puts it up in a blue can (red can is something else). Also as Kano Microil, very highly refined petroleum based oil, wax free, and does not gum. Most of these blower bearings are so called "life time lubricated" meaning it works until it doesn't. They are made from sintered bronze with oil held in the spongy metal. You can't really re-lubricate them in any easy way but they will hold oil for a reasonable time.
Hewlett-Packard used blowers with a rubber seal at one end. They could be re-lubricated using a syringe to poke through the seal and inject some oil. I have no idea if the Tek blowers are similar. Unfortunately, once the bearings run dry they will become galled and run rough despite having new lubricant.
I agree with you that mixing silicon oil or grease with petroleum lubricant is not a good idea.

On 8/13/2019 2:03 PM, Chuck Harris wrote:
Why?
Silicone oil isn't miscible with the original oil, and
you are not going to make the motor become maintenance
free, no matter what you do with oils.
Just give it some motor oil, thin like SAE5 or 10 is fine.
Detergent isn't like the stuff you wash your clothes in,
it will not cause any problems, in spite of its suggestive
name.
The synthetic doesn't oxidize as quickly as the old oil
did, but then any modern oil is much better in that regard.
The last time anyone lubed your scope fan was likely 40
years ago and yet, it still works. Give it a couple of
drops of oil, and move on... be happy!
-Chuck Harris
Stephen Hanselman wrote:
I've read some of the answers and wanted to add my two cents. We use marvel
mystery oil which seems ok so far. I was thinking about using silicon based
gun oil though

steve
--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
WB6KBL


Greg Muir
 

When looking for an answer on an item or problem I usually try to go to the source - the manufacturer. And if I can't find it on the web, I simply call them and talk to an engineer. After all, they usually know best.

http://www.bearing.co.il/OILITE.pdf
https://www.bowman.co.uk/bearings/oilite-bearings-self-lubricating-bearings

And there are others found by Googling.

Greg


Bob Albert
 

One can indeed relubricate a sintered 'lifetime' bearing. I have been successful doing it.
The preferred method, time intensive, is to remove the bearing and soak it in oil for a day or two.  It will eventually take in enough oil to allow it to operate for a very long time.
Another, less effective, method is to drizzle oil on the bearing repeatedly, like three times a day at first and then once a day.  When it doesn't dry up any more, it should be good to go.
Once you reinstall them, use urdinary lubricating procedure to make sure they are going well.  After having done that, you can leave them alone.
However, if they have been run dry for too long, the pores may have closed up and won't take on fresh oil.  When a bearing starts to make noise, it's wise to take it out of service.  And ignore the 'lifetime' appelation; oil them now and then.

On Tuesday, August 13, 2019, 02:22:15 PM PDT, Richard Knoppow <dickburk@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

    I am not so sure about what additives there are in engine
oil. One can get good quality SAE 20 machine oil at many hardware
stores. 3-in-one puts it up in a blue can (red can is something
else). Also as Kano Microil, very highly refined petroleum based
oil, wax free, and does not gum. Most of these blower bearings
are so called "life time lubricated" meaning it works until it
doesn't. They are made from sintered bronze with oil held in the
spongy metal. You can't really re-lubricate them in any easy way
but they will hold oil for a reasonable time.
    Hewlett-Packard used blowers with a rubber seal at one end.
They could be re-lubricated using a syringe to poke through the
seal and inject some oil. I have no idea if the Tek blowers are
similar.  Unfortunately, once the bearings run dry they will
become galled and run rough despite having new lubricant.
    I agree with you that mixing silicon oil or grease with
petroleum lubricant is not a good idea.

On 8/13/2019 2:03 PM, Chuck Harris wrote:
Why?

Silicone oil isn't miscible with the original oil, and
you are not going to make the motor become maintenance
free, no matter what you do with oils.

Just give it some motor oil, thin like SAE5 or 10 is fine.
Detergent isn't like the stuff you wash your clothes in,
it will not cause any problems, in spite of its suggestive
name.

The synthetic doesn't oxidize as quickly as the old oil
did, but then any modern oil is much better in that regard.

The last time anyone lubed your scope fan was likely 40
years ago and yet, it still works.  Give it a couple of
drops of oil, and move on... be happy!

-Chuck Harris

Stephen Hanselman wrote:
I've read some of the answers and wanted to add my two cents.  We use marvel
mystery oil which seems ok so far.  I was thinking about using silicon based
gun oil though

steve
--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
WB6KBL


Ken Eckert
 

I wonder if ultrasonic cleaning would help before relubricating, assuming
the bearing can be removed.....

On Tuesday, August 13, 2019, Bob Albert via Groups.Io <bob91343=
yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

One can indeed relubricate a sintered 'lifetime' bearing. I have been
successful doing it.
The preferred method, time intensive, is to remove the bearing and soak it
in oil for a day or two. It will eventually take in enough oil to allow it
to operate for a very long time.
Another, less effective, method is to drizzle oil on the bearing
repeatedly, like three times a day at first and then once a day. When it
doesn't dry up any more, it should be good to go.
Once you reinstall them, use urdinary lubricating procedure to make sure
they are going well. After having done that, you can leave them alone.
However, if they have been run dry for too long, the pores may have closed
up and won't take on fresh oil. When a bearing starts to make noise, it's
wise to take it out of service. And ignore the 'lifetime' appelation; oil
them now and then.
On Tuesday, August 13, 2019, 02:22:15 PM PDT, Richard Knoppow <
dickburk@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

I am not so sure about what additives there are in engine
oil. One can get good quality SAE 20 machine oil at many hardware
stores. 3-in-one puts it up in a blue can (red can is something
else). Also as Kano Microil, very highly refined petroleum based
oil, wax free, and does not gum. Most of these blower bearings
are so called "life time lubricated" meaning it works until it
doesn't. They are made from sintered bronze with oil held in the
spongy metal. You can't really re-lubricate them in any easy way
but they will hold oil for a reasonable time.
Hewlett-Packard used blowers with a rubber seal at one end.
They could be re-lubricated using a syringe to poke through the
seal and inject some oil. I have no idea if the Tek blowers are
similar. Unfortunately, once the bearings run dry they will
become galled and run rough despite having new lubricant.
I agree with you that mixing silicon oil or grease with
petroleum lubricant is not a good idea.

On 8/13/2019 2:03 PM, Chuck Harris wrote:
Why?

Silicone oil isn't miscible with the original oil, and
you are not going to make the motor become maintenance
free, no matter what you do with oils.

Just give it some motor oil, thin like SAE5 or 10 is fine.
Detergent isn't like the stuff you wash your clothes in,
it will not cause any problems, in spite of its suggestive
name.

The synthetic doesn't oxidize as quickly as the old oil
did, but then any modern oil is much better in that regard.

The last time anyone lubed your scope fan was likely 40
years ago and yet, it still works. Give it a couple of
drops of oil, and move on... be happy!

-Chuck Harris

Stephen Hanselman wrote:
I've read some of the answers and wanted to add my two cents. We use
marvel
mystery oil which seems ok so far. I was thinking about using silicon
based
gun oil though

steve
--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
WB6KBL







greenboxmaven
 

Ultrasonic cleaning is a very good way to get the crud out of sintered bearings. Now that analog turtables and tape recorders are being sought and used again, some AudioPhool boutiques gush about their multi-step ultrasonic cleaning and re-oiling process for motors. Many of those same boutiques are eager to find and use classic Tektronix scopes and Hewlett-Packard signal generators and distortion analyzers. They are also the ones who search for 5XX models at hamfests, take out all of the tubes and the power transformer(s), and throw the rest in the dumpster.

Bruce Gentry, KA2IVY

On 8/13/19 7:13 PM, Ken Eckert wrote:
I wonder if ultrasonic cleaning would help before relubricating, assuming
the bearing can be removed.....

On Tuesday, August 13, 2019, Bob Albert via Groups.Io <bob91343=
yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

One can indeed relubricate a sintered 'lifetime' bearing. I have been
successful doing it.
The preferred method, time intensive, is to remove the bearing and soak it
in oil for a day or two. It will eventually take in enough oil to allow it
to operate for a very long time.
Another, less effective, method is to drizzle oil on the bearing
repeatedly, like three times a day at first and then once a day. When it
doesn't dry up any more, it should be good to go.
Once you reinstall them, use urdinary lubricating procedure to make sure
they are going well. After having done that, you can leave them alone.
However, if they have been run dry for too long, the pores may have closed
up and won't take on fresh oil. When a bearing starts to make noise, it's
wise to take it out of service. And ignore the 'lifetime' appelation; oil
them now and then.
On Tuesday, August 13, 2019, 02:22:15 PM PDT, Richard Knoppow <
dickburk@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

I am not so sure about what additives there are in engine
oil. One can get good quality SAE 20 machine oil at many hardware
stores. 3-in-one puts it up in a blue can (red can is something
else). Also as Kano Microil, very highly refined petroleum based
oil, wax free, and does not gum. Most of these blower bearings
are so called "life time lubricated" meaning it works until it
doesn't. They are made from sintered bronze with oil held in the
spongy metal. You can't really re-lubricate them in any easy way
but they will hold oil for a reasonable time.
Hewlett-Packard used blowers with a rubber seal at one end.
They could be re-lubricated using a syringe to poke through the
seal and inject some oil. I have no idea if the Tek blowers are
similar. Unfortunately, once the bearings run dry they will
become galled and run rough despite having new lubricant.
I agree with you that mixing silicon oil or grease with
petroleum lubricant is not a good idea.

On 8/13/2019 2:03 PM, Chuck Harris wrote:
Why?

Silicone oil isn't miscible with the original oil, and
you are not going to make the motor become maintenance
free, no matter what you do with oils.

Just give it some motor oil, thin like SAE5 or 10 is fine.
Detergent isn't like the stuff you wash your clothes in,
it will not cause any problems, in spite of its suggestive
name.

The synthetic doesn't oxidize as quickly as the old oil
did, but then any modern oil is much better in that regard.

The last time anyone lubed your scope fan was likely 40
years ago and yet, it still works. Give it a couple of
drops of oil, and move on... be happy!

-Chuck Harris

Stephen Hanselman wrote:
I've read some of the answers and wanted to add my two cents. We use
marvel
mystery oil which seems ok so far. I was thinking about using silicon
based
gun oil though

steve
--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
WB6KBL







Richard Knoppow
 

I was drawing a blank on the name Oilite, thanks.

On 8/13/2019 2:58 PM, Greg Muir via Groups.Io wrote:
When looking for an answer on an item or problem I usually try to go to the source - the manufacturer. And if I can't find it on the web, I simply call them and talk to an engineer. After all, they usually know best.
http://www.bearing.co.il/OILITE.pdf
https://www.bowman.co.uk/bearings/oilite-bearings-self-lubricating-bearings
And there are others found by Googling.
Greg
--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
WB6KBL


Stephen Hanselman
 

Chuck,

You’re right on all your points, except the original oiling was when the bearing structure was made and the oil was “infused”(??) into the material (oil-lite bearing)where our added oil is applied to the bearing surface-spindle interface.

Really it gets down to use what works for you. I’ve also had good luck with WD-40 which isn’t ever a lubricant.

Regards,

Stephen Hanselman
Datagate Systems, LLC
3107 North Deer Run Road #24
Carson City, Nevada, 89701
(775) 882-5117 office
(775) 720-6020 mobile
s.hanselman@datagatesystems.com
www.datagatesystems.com
a Service Disabled, Veteran Owned Small Business
DISCLAIMER:
This e-mail and any attachments are intended only for use by the addressee(s) named herein and may contain legally privileged and/or proprietary information. If you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail and any attachments is strictly prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please immediately notify me and permanently delete the original and all copies and printouts of this e-mail and any attachments.

On Aug 13, 2019, at 14:22, Richard Knoppow <dickburk@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

I am not so sure about what additives there are in engine oil. One can get good quality SAE 20 machine oil at many hardware stores. 3-in-one puts it up in a blue can (red can is something else). Also as Kano Microil, very highly refined petroleum based oil, wax free, and does not gum. Most of these blower bearings are so called "life time lubricated" meaning it works until it doesn't. They are made from sintered bronze with oil held in the spongy metal. You can't really re-lubricate them in any easy way but they will hold oil for a reasonable time.
Hewlett-Packard used blowers with a rubber seal at one end. They could be re-lubricated using a syringe to poke through the seal and inject some oil. I have no idea if the Tek blowers are similar. Unfortunately, once the bearings run dry they will become galled and run rough despite having new lubricant.
I agree with you that mixing silicon oil or grease with petroleum lubricant is not a good idea.

On 8/13/2019 2:03 PM, Chuck Harris wrote:
Why?
Silicone oil isn't miscible with the original oil, and
you are not going to make the motor become maintenance
free, no matter what you do with oils.
Just give it some motor oil, thin like SAE5 or 10 is fine.
Detergent isn't like the stuff you wash your clothes in,
it will not cause any problems, in spite of its suggestive
name.
The synthetic doesn't oxidize as quickly as the old oil
did, but then any modern oil is much better in that regard.
The last time anyone lubed your scope fan was likely 40
years ago and yet, it still works. Give it a couple of
drops of oil, and move on... be happy!
-Chuck Harris
Stephen Hanselman wrote:
I've read some of the answers and wanted to add my two cents. We use marvel
mystery oil which seems ok so far. I was thinking about using silicon based
gun oil though

steve
--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
WB6KBL



EricJ
 

I don't think Chuck contradicted that point. Dick described it very well. Oilite bushings are sintered, so they are porous - the number I've seen was about 40% free space - then impregnated with oil. The original process involved pulling a vacuum on the bushings while they were soaked in oil, and then sometimes pressurizing them afterward. I haven't the faintest idea if that's still the process today.

The original Tek bushings could be cleared out by baking at a lower temp so that the oil only evaporates and doesn't burn, then refilling. Pulling a vacuum while in an oil bath would work best but soaking at an elevated temp to thin the oil might be fine. The next question would be whether the bearing surface of the bushing had smeared so that the pores were closed off or not. Probably not I would suspect. This would of course necessitate removal of the bushings. Best bet for most folks would probably be just to add some oil periodically.

--Eric

On Aug 14, 2019 10:29 AM, Stephen Hanselman <kc4sw.io@kc4sw.com> wrote:




Chuck,

You’re right on all your points, except the original oiling was when the
bearing structure was made and the oil was “infused”(??) into the material
(oil-lite bearing)where our added oil is applied to the bearing
surface-spindle interface.

Really it gets down to use what works for you.  I’ve also had good luck
with WD-40 which isn’t ever a lubricant.

Regards,

Stephen Hanselman
Datagate Systems, LLC
3107 North Deer Run Road #24
Carson City, Nevada, 89701
(775) 882-5117 office
(775) 720-6020 mobile
s.hanselman@datagatesystems.com
www.datagatesystems.com
a Service Disabled, Veteran Owned Small Business
DISCLAIMER:
This e-mail and any attachments are intended only for use by the
addressee(s) named herein and may contain legally privileged and/or
proprietary information. If you are not the intended recipient, any
dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail and any attachments
is strictly prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please
immediately notify me and permanently delete the original and all copies
and printouts of this e-mail and any attachments.
On Aug 13, 2019, at 14:22, Richard Knoppow <dickburk@ix.netcom.com>
wrote:

   I am not so sure about what additives there are in engine oil. One can
get good quality SAE 20 machine oil at many hardware stores. 3-in-one puts
it up in a blue can (red can is something else). Also as Kano Microil,
very highly refined petroleum based oil, wax free, and does not gum. Most
of these blower bearings are so called "life time lubricated" meaning it
works until it doesn't. They are made from sintered bronze with oil held
in the spongy metal. You can't really re-lubricate them in any easy way
but they will hold oil for a reasonable time.
   Hewlett-Packard used blowers with a rubber seal at one end. They could
be re-lubricated using a syringe to poke through the seal and inject some
oil. I have no idea if the Tek blowers are similar.  Unfortunately, once
the bearings run dry they will become galled and run rough despite having
new lubricant.
   I agree with you that mixing silicon oil or grease with petroleum
lubricant is not a good idea.

On 8/13/2019 2:03 PM, Chuck Harris wrote:
Why?
Silicone oil isn't miscible with the original oil, and
you are not going to make the motor become maintenance
free, no matter what you do with oils.
Just give it some motor oil, thin like SAE5 or 10 is fine.
Detergent isn't like the stuff you wash your clothes in,
it will not cause any problems, in spite of its suggestive
name.
The synthetic doesn't oxidize as quickly as the old oil
did, but then any modern oil is much better in that regard.
The last time anyone lubed your scope fan was likely 40
years ago and yet, it still works.  Give it a couple of
drops of oil, and move on... be happy!
-Chuck Harris
Stephen Hanselman wrote:
I've read some of the answers and wanted to add my two cents.  We use
marvel
mystery oil which seems ok so far.  I was thinking about using silicon
based
gun oil though

steve
--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
WB6KBL







Greg Muir
 

WD-40

Spent a couple of years working in the tropics with extremely high humidity. I used to protect tools from rusting by wiping them with WD-40 then storing unused tools in plastic bags. What I found after coming back after several months to use them was that the light hydrocarbons used in the product had evaporated leaving behind a petroleum based product with the consistency of something between 90 weight oil and Cosmoline.

From this I learned that it is only good for a very few purposes (aside from the original intent of the product for coating the outsides of missiles to prevent corrosion) is to protect items from rust and corrosion (with some subsequent clean-up effort), a penetrent and, on occasion, a gummed label remover. When I hear of someone using it to lubricate potentiometers, switches and such, I wince.

A footnote: while at the project it was interesting to find that all of the local outlets sold WD-40 in gallon cans, an indication that I was probably not the only one facing rust and corrosion issues.

Greg


Chuck Harris
 

Hi Stephen,

I don't recall saying anything about the original
infusion with oil. I generally receive sintered
bronze bearings that are bone dry from a distributor,
such as MSC.

I don't recall ever getting one that was pre-oiled,
except perhaps as a bagged replacement part.

I am not sure how the manufacturer of the sintered
bronze would know what parameters your oil needed
to survive your use.

Oil is not meant to be added to the shaft/oilite
interface, it is intended to be done through oil
contact with the outer surface of the oilite The
oil then diffuses through capillary action into the
sintered bronze, just like a common sponge does when
it comes into contact with water.

Very few high reliability users of oilite do not
provide an oil reservoir... usually in the form of an
oil soaked piece of wool felt that is in contact with
the oilite. This is what tektronix has in the fan
motors for the old vacuum tube scopes. Often, these
motors find themselves with their oil holes upside down,
so if you find one that way, be kind and restore it to
the upright position. Gravity, and all that...

Getting the oil out of, and back into the oilite is
easy. To remove it, set it on a rag, and bake it to
212F. As soon as the oilite gets hot, the oil will
leave due to expansion. And to put it back, soak it
in hot oil, then allow the oil to cool.

Generally, if the bearing isn't worn out, all that
is needed is to remove the gummy oil from the outside
of the bearing, and shaft, and put some fresh oil in
the wool felt.

If you have to keep adding oil to the shaft/oilite
interface, to keep the peace, the bearing and shaft
are worn out.

-Chuck Harris

Stephen Hanselman wrote:

Chuck,

You’re right on all your points, except the original oiling was when the bearing structure was made and the oil was “infused”(??) into the material (oil-lite bearing)where our added oil is applied to the bearing surface-spindle interface.

Really it gets down to use what works for you. I’ve also had good luck with WD-40 which isn’t ever a lubricant.

Regards,

Stephen Hanselman
Datagate Systems, LLC
3107 North Deer Run Road #24
Carson City, Nevada, 89701
(775) 882-5117 office
(775) 720-6020 mobile
s.hanselman@datagatesystems.com
www.datagatesystems.com
a Service Disabled, Veteran Owned Small Business
DISCLAIMER:
This e-mail and any attachments are intended only for use by the addressee(s) named herein and may contain legally privileged and/or proprietary information. If you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail and any attachments is strictly prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please immediately notify me and permanently delete the original and all copies and printouts of this e-mail and any attachments.
On Aug 13, 2019, at 14:22, Richard Knoppow <dickburk@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

I am not so sure about what additives there are in engine oil. One can get good quality SAE 20 machine oil at many hardware stores. 3-in-one puts it up in a blue can (red can is something else). Also as Kano Microil, very highly refined petroleum based oil, wax free, and does not gum. Most of these blower bearings are so called "life time lubricated" meaning it works until it doesn't. They are made from sintered bronze with oil held in the spongy metal. You can't really re-lubricate them in any easy way but they will hold oil for a reasonable time.
Hewlett-Packard used blowers with a rubber seal at one end. They could be re-lubricated using a syringe to poke through the seal and inject some oil. I have no idea if the Tek blowers are similar. Unfortunately, once the bearings run dry they will become galled and run rough despite having new lubricant.
I agree with you that mixing silicon oil or grease with petroleum lubricant is not a good idea.

On 8/13/2019 2:03 PM, Chuck Harris wrote:
Why?
Silicone oil isn't miscible with the original oil, and
you are not going to make the motor become maintenance
free, no matter what you do with oils.
Just give it some motor oil, thin like SAE5 or 10 is fine.
Detergent isn't like the stuff you wash your clothes in,
it will not cause any problems, in spite of its suggestive
name.
The synthetic doesn't oxidize as quickly as the old oil
did, but then any modern oil is much better in that regard.
The last time anyone lubed your scope fan was likely 40
years ago and yet, it still works. Give it a couple of
drops of oil, and move on... be happy!
-Chuck Harris
Stephen Hanselman wrote:
I've read some of the answers and wanted to add my two cents. We use marvel
mystery oil which seems ok so far. I was thinking about using silicon based
gun oil though

steve
--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
WB6KBL





Jim Ford
 

The WD stands for Water Displacing, by the way.  40 is presumably because it was the 40th substance the manufacturer tried.Jim FordSent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------From: "Greg Muir via Groups.Io" <big_sky_explorer=yahoo.com@groups.io> Date: 8/14/19 10:09 AM (GMT-08:00) To: TekScopes@groups.io Subject: Re: [TekScopes] non-gumming oil WD-40Spent a couple of years working in the tropics with extremely high humidity.  I used to protect tools from rusting by wiping them with WD-40 then storing unused tools in plastic bags.  What I found after coming back after several months to use them was that the light hydrocarbons used in the product had evaporated leaving behind a petroleum based product with the consistency of something between 90 weight oil and Cosmoline.From this I learned that it is only good for a very few purposes (aside from the original intent of the product for coating the outsides of missiles to prevent corrosion) is to protect items from rust and corrosion (with some subsequent clean-up effort), a penetrent and, on occasion, a gummed label remover.  When I hear of someone using it to lubricate potentiometers, switches and such, I wince.A footnote: while at the project it was interesting to find that all of the local outlets sold WD-40 in gallon cans, an indication that I was probably not the only one facing rust and corrosion issues.Greg


Stephen Hanselman
 

Sorry Chuck,

My only experience with these type of bearings is with ones that were already oiled, sorry about that. One thing I like about this list is the plethora of new information.

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io <TekScopes@groups.io> On Behalf Of Chuck Harris
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2019 10:39 AM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] non-gumming oil

Hi Stephen,

I don't recall saying anything about the original infusion with oil. I generally receive sintered bronze bearings that are bone dry from a distributor, such as MSC.

I don't recall ever getting one that was pre-oiled, except perhaps as a bagged replacement part.

I am not sure how the manufacturer of the sintered bronze would know what parameters your oil needed to survive your use.

Oil is not meant to be added to the shaft/oilite interface, it is intended to be done through oil contact with the outer surface of the oilite The oil then diffuses through capillary action into the sintered bronze, just like a common sponge does when it comes into contact with water.

Very few high reliability users of oilite do not provide an oil reservoir... usually in the form of an oil soaked piece of wool felt that is in contact with the oilite. This is what tektronix has in the fan motors for the old vacuum tube scopes. Often, these motors find themselves with their oil holes upside down, so if you find one that way, be kind and restore it to the upright position. Gravity, and all that...

Getting the oil out of, and back into the oilite is easy. To remove it, set it on a rag, and bake it to 212F. As soon as the oilite gets hot, the oil will leave due to expansion. And to put it back, soak it in hot oil, then allow the oil to cool.

Generally, if the bearing isn't worn out, all that is needed is to remove the gummy oil from the outside of the bearing, and shaft, and put some fresh oil in the wool felt.

If you have to keep adding oil to the shaft/oilite interface, to keep the peace, the bearing and shaft are worn out.

-Chuck Harris

Stephen Hanselman wrote:
Chuck,

You’re right on all your points, except the original oiling was when the bearing structure was made and the oil was “infused”(??) into the material (oil-lite bearing)where our added oil is applied to the bearing surface-spindle interface.

Really it gets down to use what works for you. I’ve also had good luck with WD-40 which isn’t ever a lubricant.

Regards,

Stephen Hanselman
Datagate Systems, LLC
3107 North Deer Run Road #24
Carson City, Nevada, 89701
(775) 882-5117 office
(775) 720-6020 mobile
s.hanselman@datagatesystems.com
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On Aug 13, 2019, at 14:22, Richard Knoppow <dickburk@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

I am not so sure about what additives there are in engine oil. One can get good quality SAE 20 machine oil at many hardware stores. 3-in-one puts it up in a blue can (red can is something else). Also as Kano Microil, very highly refined petroleum based oil, wax free, and does not gum. Most of these blower bearings are so called "life time lubricated" meaning it works until it doesn't. They are made from sintered bronze with oil held in the spongy metal. You can't really re-lubricate them in any easy way but they will hold oil for a reasonable time.
Hewlett-Packard used blowers with a rubber seal at one end. They could be re-lubricated using a syringe to poke through the seal and inject some oil. I have no idea if the Tek blowers are similar. Unfortunately, once the bearings run dry they will become galled and run rough despite having new lubricant.
I agree with you that mixing silicon oil or grease with petroleum lubricant is not a good idea.

On 8/13/2019 2:03 PM, Chuck Harris wrote:
Why?
Silicone oil isn't miscible with the original oil, and you are not
going to make the motor become maintenance free, no matter what you
do with oils.
Just give it some motor oil, thin like SAE5 or 10 is fine.
Detergent isn't like the stuff you wash your clothes in, it will not
cause any problems, in spite of its suggestive name.
The synthetic doesn't oxidize as quickly as the old oil did, but
then any modern oil is much better in that regard.
The last time anyone lubed your scope fan was likely 40 years ago
and yet, it still works. Give it a couple of drops of oil, and move
on... be happy!
-Chuck Harris
Stephen Hanselman wrote:
I've read some of the answers and wanted to add my two cents. We
use marvel mystery oil which seems ok so far. I was thinking about
using silicon based gun oil though

steve
--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
WB6KBL





Stephen Hanselman
 

You're right it was, I saw this on a Science channel show.

S

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io <TekScopes@groups.io> On Behalf Of Jim Ford
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2019 10:41 AM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] non-gumming oil

The WD stands for Water Displacing, by the way. 40 is presumably because it was the 40th substance the manufacturer tried.Jim FordSent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: "Greg Muir via Groups.Io" <big_sky_explorer=yahoo.com@groups.io> Date: 8/14/19 10:09 AM (GMT-08:00) To: TekScopes@groups.io Subject: Re: [TekScopes] non-gumming oil WD-40Spent a couple of years working in the tropics with extremely high humidity. I used to protect tools from rusting by wiping them with WD-40 then storing unused tools in plastic bags. What I found after coming back after several months to use them was that the light hydrocarbons used in the product had evaporated leaving behind a petroleum based product with the consistency of something between 90 weight oil and Cosmoline.From this I learned that it is only good for a very few purposes (aside from the original intent of the product for coating the outsides of missiles to prevent corrosion) is to protect items from rust and corrosion (with some subsequent clean-up effort), a penetrent and, on occasion, a gummed label remover. When I hear of someone using it to lubricate potentiometers, switches and such, I wince.A footnote: while at the project it was interesting to find that all of the local outlets sold WD-40 in gallon cans, an indication that I was probably not the only one facing rust and corrosion issues.Greg


Richard Knoppow
 

Look at the Oilite web site. They state that the oil is infused via vacuum. This is what I always understood about how Oilite bearings were made. There are sintered bearings that are meant for an external oil reservoir but the Oilite type is lubricated during manufacture and is not supposed to need any other lubrication although the web site describes the use of a light wax to eliminate break-in.
In the past I was involved in rebuilding sound recording equipment with Oilite bearings. They were not easily replacable. I used turbine oil of a type recommended by the lab of one of the larger oil companies. He gave us a sample, about a quart, I never used it up. Turbine oil is a very highly refined oil.

On 8/14/2019 10:45 AM, Stephen Hanselman wrote:
Sorry Chuck,
My only experience with these type of bearings is with ones that were already oiled, sorry about that. One thing I like about this list is the plethora of new information.
Steve
--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
WB6KBL


Chuck Harris
 

Hi Richard,

I tend to use Oilite as a generic term for sintered bronze.
It seems to be a common usage among older mechanics and
machinists... Oilite kind of rolls off the tongue better than
sintered bronze.

I am pretty sure that Oilite didn't invent sintered bronze, but
rather were the first to market oil infused sintered bronze, and
claim it was a lifetime lubricated bearing... it most certainly
isn't... unless you gauge lifetime to be the devices working
life.

I am certain that you are right, Oilite is a pre-oiled product,
and in light duty, slow speed applications it is used that way
quite often... A turntable fits that description.

However, in higher speed, heavier duty applications it is all
but unheard of to use it that way. Things like blowers that
need to be quieter than ball bearing will allow, furnace blowers,
bathroom ventilation fans, ... Tektronix 500 series scope fans...
In these sorts of applications, an oil reservoir is used. It
may be only filled by the motor's manufacturer, but it is a
reservoir none the less.

Turbine oil has a slightly more noble purpose, being intended
for pressurized lubrication systems in jet engines... but that
is exactly the same sort of bearing as is serviced by automotive
motor oil. Turbocharged engines have turbines that spin faster
than 100KRPM, and use a synthetic motor oil, such as mobil 1.

Turbine oil, and light weight motor oil work equally well for
these lowly light duty motors.

I have both on my bench, and which I use is more dependent on
which container will fit the motor I am oiling.

My 5W30 synthetic motor oil has a 16ga blunt needle, and the
turbine oil has a 6" long 3/16" wide straw...

...Very scientific!...

-Chuck Harris

Richard Knoppow wrote:

Look at the Oilite web site. They state that the oil is infused via vacuum. This
is what I always understood about how Oilite bearings were made. There are sintered
bearings that are meant for an external oil reservoir but the Oilite type is
lubricated during manufacture and is not supposed to need any other lubrication
although the web site describes the use of a light wax to eliminate break-in.
In the past I was involved in rebuilding sound recording equipment with Oilite
bearings. They were not easily replacable. I used turbine oil of a type recommended
by the lab of one of the larger oil companies. He gave us a sample, about a quart, I
never used it up. Turbine oil is a very highly refined oil.


greenboxmaven
 

I have seen some lively discussions about WD-40 in switches, pots and bearings. I have never had any problem using it as a PART of the cleaning process. It will often cut loose crud that nothing else will, but must be completely flushed out once it has done it's job or it will soon become a residue far worse than the original.

Bruce Gentry, KA2IVY

On 8/14/19 1:09 PM, Greg Muir via Groups.Io wrote:
WD-40

Spent a couple of years working in the tropics with extremely high humidity. I used to protect tools from rusting by wiping them with WD-40 then storing unused tools in plastic bags. What I found after coming back after several months to use them was that the light hydrocarbons used in the product had evaporated leaving behind a petroleum based product with the consistency of something between 90 weight oil and Cosmoline.

From this I learned that it is only good for a very few purposes (aside from the original intent of the product for coating the outsides of missiles to prevent corrosion) is to protect items from rust and corrosion (with some subsequent clean-up effort), a penetrent and, on occasion, a gummed label remover. When I hear of someone using it to lubricate potentiometers, switches and such, I wince.
A footnote: while at the project it was interesting to find that all of the local outlets sold WD-40 in gallon cans, an indication that I was probably not the only one facing rust and corrosion issues.

Greg



Ken Eckert
 

It really works well in the task removing label glue. Paper labels I just
let it soak into the label, let it sit and pell off the label, remove the
glue then your favourite IPA to remove the WD-40. One thing about WD-40 I
have not found a material that it "attacks"

Ken

On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 1:36 PM greenboxmaven via Groups.Io <ka2ivy=
verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:

I have seen some lively discussions about WD-40 in switches, pots and
bearings. I have never had any problem using it as a PART of the
cleaning process. It will often cut loose crud that nothing else will,
but must be completely flushed out once it has done it's job or it will
soon become a residue far worse than the original.

Bruce Gentry, KA2IVY


On 8/14/19 1:09 PM, Greg Muir via Groups.Io wrote:
WD-40

Spent a couple of years working in the tropics with extremely high
humidity. I used to protect tools from rusting by wiping them with WD-40
then storing unused tools in plastic bags. What I found after coming back
after several months to use them was that the light hydrocarbons used in
the product had evaporated leaving behind a petroleum based product with
the consistency of something between 90 weight oil and Cosmoline.

From this I learned that it is only good for a very few purposes (aside
from the original intent of the product for coating the outsides of
missiles to prevent corrosion) is to protect items from rust and corrosion
(with some subsequent clean-up effort), a penetrent and, on occasion, a
gummed label remover. When I hear of someone using it to lubricate
potentiometers, switches and such, I wince.

A footnote: while at the project it was interesting to find that all of
the local outlets sold WD-40 in gallon cans, an indication that I was
probably not the only one facing rust and corrosion issues.

Greg







Brian Symons
 

The Australian military found that it caused the"rubber" flexible insulation to swell of connectors with inserted crimp pins so it was banned from use on connectors.

Regards,
Brian.

On 15/08/2019 6:42 am, Ken Eckert wrote:
It really works well in the task removing label glue. Paper labels I just
let it soak into the label, let it sit and pell off the label, remove the
glue then your favourite IPA to remove the WD-40. One thing about WD-40 I
have not found a material that it "attacks"

Ken