Hi Dave If you go look in the group archives there was a fairly long thread on the L/R switch. I researched the topic extensively when I fixed mine and all of the information is in that thread, includ

If you haven't downloaded the pdf, it illustrates taking the pot apart and shifting the wiper so they are 180 out of phase. Very nice work, btw. Paul

I never got around to making a sleep stand; been using it for years without any issue. The power supply has a timeout feature, so it will shut off without use after 5 or 10 minutes. Paul

A few years ago I slurged on myself and got a Metcal setup, the whole enchilada: station, wand, tweezers, assortment of tips and desoldering gun. Got them all off ebay for reasonable prices. I did tha

I use openscad and find it quite easy to make parts. I've been a programmer for most of my career, so it fits a paradigm that I'm used to. Use the editor that you're most comfortable with and look up

Well, it all depends. If you have an A5 board with SMD caps, you should replace them. If they haven't already, the originals will leak and eventually damage the board. If you have an old Dallas NVRAM,

One of the nicest ways to repair this is to get some of those snap-cap adapters that mate a modern radial cap with the oddball footprint of the Sprague cans and they also take care of the necessary ju

Check the power supplies, they need to be within the specs in the service manuals both for voltage and ripple. You may have a bed filter cap

The freon is unobtainable, but I seem to recall hearing about using alternatives, maybe butane (as long as all the air is purged!). I had a small bottle of that stuff in an aluminum bottle, capped and

Here's a link to the photos from the Vintage Tek museum, the text on the photo shows what you have to remove https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/album?id=246557 Here are my instructions on repairing the swi

Here's one that uses the correct actuator and probably has enough contacts to match up if you want to do all that soldering: https://www.ebay.com/itm/234461752244 $25 with free shipping and looks like

Since you can use the toggle from any 41000 series Switchcraft switch, you could use this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/134181816112 It's $10, extract the toggle and you're good to go. The Vintage Tek

Look up posts 167222 and 167221 where I have some details on this and which switches are usable. The Vintage Tek Museum used to sell the switch actuator as well. Paul

Here's some ideas: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/tek-1502b-tdr-restoration-project-and-more/ The STM32F469I referenced in the thread is available for $62 + s/h. There's probably enough informat

If you're looking for something discrete, you're probably limited to a 454/454A. Just about everything else with a high bandwidth that Tek made has custom chips of one type or another. I have a 465 wh

I see that Walter listed his 577 for sale with a broken A/B switch on the 177 adapter. This is a very common problem and a couple years ago I posted some tips on how to repair it. At that time, the Vi

I have seen caps and bridges fail, but not the transformer. The HV multiplier failure does not seem too uncommon from what I've seen, although I've never had one go bad. If you're worried, buy a parts

Hi Bruce, send me an email offlist I have a few I'm looking to get rid of. Email in sig. Paul

Sadly, 4 channel scopes make the problem worse. I paid more for a full set of probes than the last scope I bought. Well, it was probably less if you count the second scope I had to buy for parts ...

Wrong tool. You need a through-hole desoldering station with vacuum. I like Metcal, but Hakko are good and some of the cheapy imports are workable. This is a good excuse to buy an expensive tool :-) I