Hi Stephen, That's why I came up with a "UPS" (Uninterruptible Power Supply) in my previous message. The kind I had in mind is a self-contained shoebox-sized device, containing a battery and an invert

I'm not at all convinced that this is the way to proceed. Should you consider trying it, make sure that the output voltage and waveform are reasonably OK. Many affordable inverters are lacking in this

It is what I read about and I think I read it in Peter Keller's book, which I haven't with me where I currently am. Raymond

I thought I read about the recovery process that may happen in long-unused CRT's by just leaving them on for a time, even without temporarily increasing filament voltage in Peter Keller's book. OTOH,

On Thu, Feb 25, 2021 at 12:52 AM, Stephen wrote: Your reaction to Steve's latest post gives me an opportunity to make even clearer what I tried to convey: > > > > > Then why would you replace the cap(

When you make clear that a certain thing like that is an issue, others may conclude that you need help on that specific point but they can't read your mind nor are they your boss. I'm sure many others

Hi Mike, Wondering why this is message #141 in this thread? Raymond

In my 465B schematics, no X-cap nor Y-caps are shown. There might be an integrated mains filter block although that isn't shown either. Raymond

That's probably just some errant, wandering ions that haven't yet been captured by the getter or have broken loose covering the cathode. Anyone of you got Peter Keller's book about CRT's? Raymond

I advise against such harsh measures at this time. Why not go ahead and first try another simple-to-do thing that several contributors, including myself, have recommended many times, again during the

I think that in places that are subjected to the most stringent safety regulations, like kitchen and bathroom, the mains connections have been renewed and set up according to the modern system, wherea

I have lots of high-end Tek passive (and active) probes, including P6137, -38, and -39A/B. Very nice but not without competition. Have a look at Picotech's P2056 as an example. Measuring them (@25 Ohm

Hi Barry, In general, you're right of course, it's better to connect the safer/easier connection first although in this case, there's no real difference. Apparently, the "ground" connection is already

It's not a matter of wall outlets having been wired correctly. Systems differ across the pond, you don't know how the socket tester comes to its conclusion when measuring an archaic mains power system

I'd give priority to the second. You have a portable DMM, don't you? Set it on 250 or 500 VAC, whatever your DMM has. Connect one measurement lead to the point you called "ground" in your measurement

Better use your DMM for that... Raymond

All my DMM measure voltage between both pins to ground... 233V/50Hz line voltage. 106V from one pin to ground, and 127V from the other to ground.... Can you measure your "ground" voltage against what

Only a proper safety earth would make things "appropriate", because without it, things are unsafe. An isolation transformer makes things safer. Depending on what the "step-down converter" would be, it

2465 has 300 MHz BW 2465A has 350 MHz BW 2467 has 350 MHz BW 2465B has 400 MHz BW 2467B has 400 MHz BW Raymond

Both are 400 MHz. The 2467B has an MCP CRT. Raymond