James, See if R4134, CH1 bal, helps. This is an internal adjustment. Mark

James, How about swapping the vertical leads to the neck pins to see if the problem tracks. Use test leads if necessary if the wires are too short. The additional length is fine in this case. That wil

David, A guess here, moving the wire(s) caused it to be back where it should have been and adjusting what you did brought it back to in spec. Moving a wire or more can cause things to work or fail by

Renee, How about: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/BFC241945102?qs=IGgxCalrOc4WQTNUGvFPLQ%3D%3D. A suggestion. Your choice looks fine also. Mark

Zen, Check the 9V zeners in the scope(s) and the DM44. The ones that are open, use BZX85B9V1. In the scope, a 9V zener is going to the opamp for the 50V supply. Jeff D. is right about checking the sup

The insulators are needed to isolate the collectors from ground. That is likely your problem. Replace the insulators. Mark

James, How about a 2N5911? This is a dual FET. I think it is a 1032 instead of the 1042 as you have. The jumper could be off the 95V supply. Check that. The other thing I think of is the filters for t

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Barry, From experience, replace the 0367s with KSP10BU. The diode check you found with them is typical from C to E. The replacements are BEC so watch inserting them in the sockets. I do not trust any

Nick, The high voltage lead entering the crt is likely where it is originating. That is normal. The high voltage makes static charge even on the outside of the insulation and on the face of the crt. T

Grant, I would be one that Clark F. mentioned. If you decide to get rid of them, contact me. Mark

Harrison, The area I mentioned is the main power supply. Mark

David, https://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/tek-parts/tekpots.html Mark

Harrison, What you describe is likely bad filter condensers and possible bad rectifier diodes. The condensers should be a high temp type, low ESR and long life type such as Nichicon ULD, UHE, UCY or L

William, To expand on what Harvey said, the 1/8W carbon resistors between the dual variable C under the shield can be a/the problem. I have had some that were well out of tolerance which caused proble

gwerl, Check VR24 and VR30. If either or both are bad, use BZX85B9V1 as the replacement. The previous owner could have set the internal adjustments to what he wanted as the maximum. Readjust to see if

Pat, C804/C808 could be leaky causing the 7V at G. Put in A position. If you still get 7V at that point, that makes the two condensers more suspect. You could also have a bad transistor (shorted from

Pat, C759 should be left alone unless bad. The 1mfd decoupling tantalums can be the R82 series film types. Mouser has these 80-R82DC4100DQ60J. You can add ULD types in a couple of places to give highe

Luca, Going from the first in the schematics to last: A1- 100mfd 25V (order 10) 647-ULD1E101MED1TD (14) 47mfd 25V (order 41 or more) 647-ULD1E470MDD1TD (UHE series will work) (2) 220mfd 16V 647-ULD2A2

Luca, Since R1071 is burning, C1071 is bad. This is one of those RIFAs that needs to be changed out with new. This type can be 630V type film. The two that need to be an X1 or X2 type are C1016 and C1

Pat, The trace location is under the graticule intensity knob on the left. Likely the contacts are dirty. C1194 and/or C1181 is the one you are talking about with the corroded lead. The first one I pu