I notice you have the 07 revision of LVPS that looks similar to the 06 that I have, I found out that it matches the schematic / layout diagrams as found in the service manual for the military version

I notice a past thermal event around Q1351, you may want to check that area and replace the transistor and the 2 15 Ohm resistors "just in case". I've seen it in my LVPS too, check the archives, sever

My guts feeling (and experience) are telling me that the solder joint / mechanical strenght would be highly unreliable.

What scope is this supposed to be?

We're talking 500Mhz here just to give similar BW readings and 1GHz to give similar pulse response. You'd need to be very crafty with the x-acto. If in the end the geometry of the traces is different,

Should be noted that these scope are near their end of life and many parts are by now in the "unobtainium" category.... Also, the reasons you would pick a digital scope over an analog one are mainly s

Talking strictly about the PCB, they ARE different and in more than one layer. If anyone thinks you can transform one into the other with just an x-acto knife and they will subsequently perform identi

for the money Rigol doesn't look like a bad option....

"free market" is nothing but an oversimplified model used in "business school" teaching. Pretty much like you would use ideal R, L & C devices in EE classes. With the distinction that models used in E

You're just kidding, aren't you?

How comes a dealership can fix such a complex item as a car in a few days, while the folks dealing with "small electronic items" can't? There's more to it, isn't it?

The key is here: "Finally, they replaced it with a NEW TV" As for this: "One told me about a warranty service call on a new console TV that had smoked. All the wiring under the chassis was burnt. Woul

Thanks a lot, much appreciated!

It's not only that but also dV/dt. You can fry them with abrupt voltage application even when that voltage is way under the rated one. As for the bathtub, you can plan ahead and "break them in" on a b

Not it's not the same mechanism but for some not well documented reason they seem to "popcorn" like them after some time.

My take is that since they are not particularly stable with temperature or age, they're probably not involved with calibration. Of course I may be wrong.

Lol I just did a walkman, if anyone here is fancying working under a microscope with the finest iron tip possible, you may also try a cell phone.

Works very well with rebel parts. Especially those where the manufacturer bent the leads before soldering. Usually capacitors. lol.

I particularly dislike the warranty terms of electronic products where the fine print says that the manufacturer can either repair or replace the product with a refurbished one at his will. Dunno abou

It's etched on the component side of the board, you need to remove the blue outer case in order to view it.