Jeff, I think I like using the 7CT1N with an amplifier plugin as opposed to using the time-base's amplifier function as well. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

Yes, I was just testing it with a 7B50 and that works. I was foolishly trying this with a time-base without a source input and using the cable inserted into the trigger input. That will produce a set

Okay, that makes sense. Essentially, it's an X-Y type of operation. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

I purchased a 7514 which came with, among other plugins, a 7CT1N. After cleaning some of the dirty switches (still need to clean the leaf switches), I'm able to get a set of traces for a 2N3904 and/or

A previous user pre-burned my 7514 for me. :( It isn't too bad but it is noticeable. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

I need to take a look at that. I recently acquired a 7514 and I'm quite puzzled about how the anode lead makes it to the CRT. The HV out of the multiplier goes to a typical cylindrical anode-style con

Unfortunately, I discovered that that wires for that connector are not color-coded for a 1,2,3,4,5 order and I had to trace them to determine which wire goes where. Not too bad but I wish Tek had prov

Please disregard - I have it out. This CRT has a larger rubber boot around it then the one from my 7704A and apparently that was holding it. I worked a thin scale around that from the front and I thin

Following the instructions in the manual, I cannot get the CRT in my 7514 to budge. I have removed the CRT from my 7704A which is physically very similar and when I loosened the clamp spring screws in

I'd thought about shrink tubing as well but if I can get appropriate DuPont holders, I'll probably to that route. I'm pretty sure the wires are color-coded such that brown is pin one, red is pin two,

Ignacio, Thanks for that tip. I have some of the four-pin type but will be getting some of the other pin-count versions. I didn't realize those would work. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

Regarding those harmonica connectors, when I pulled one of them from one of the circuit boards last night (P1306 on the A22 board), it crumbled in my fingers. Interestingly, it was a blue connector. T

While these aren't the ones I need to remove, these are the type to which I'm referring: https://w140.com/tekwiki/images/f/fd/Tek_7514_7.jpg Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

Jon, Yes, I'm familiar with the "harmonica" connectors. The 7704A uses them extensively as well as the plugins and that makes taking the 7704A apart quite a bit easier. The 7514 uses a half dozen of t

I'm in the process of cleaning up a very dirty 7514 (apparently belonged to Southern Railway at one time and was stored in a fairly dirty environment). As part of that, I want to remove the Main Inter

I almost like the idea of replacing them with modern connectors. The current "patient" is a 7514 and I don't know if it's the case with the Main Interface board in that scope, but in my 7704A, I ran i

https://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/Repairing_7000-series_plug-in_sockets Very interesting. I was unaware of that page. It gives me some hope. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

If, IF, I do find some replacements, I think I read where there's a specific way to clip them into place. I see where one edge is a bit wider than the other and I _think_ that edge goes towards the fr

What a shame that a few thin plastic pieces sidelines such a nice instrument. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

The side covers on the plugin sockets (P/N 200-0950-00) in my "new" scope are in pretty bad condition. I've read where folks have tried 3D printing those several years ago but not sure how that worked