Here's a picture of my disassembled plug. You can see a disk shaped collar piece crimped to the cable just to the left of the pin assembly. With the whole thing assembled, the cable can still rotate i

Looks the same as mine except my plug is chrome plated. :) That inner metal collar piece around the rubber boot will also unscrew allowing you to withdraw the whole assembly (with a little push to the

Thanks for that but it's actually the big metal plug that attaches to the AM503 module that I'm looking for photos of. Jared.

I just picked up an A6302 current clamp in non-working condition and found many of the wires in the plug had broken off. It was easy enough to solder the wires but it looks like the cable is loose in

Hi, The pins should be on the underside of the Switch PCB with the short side soldered into the PCB so the longer side mates with the sockets in the Main PCB. The same is the case for the Front Panel

The front panel has 3 parts. Rear-most metal plate (1mm aluminium IIRC) Then the center plastic piece, consisting of one of either the blank panel from a blank plugin module, the repurposed panel from

Well, I'm glad it wasn't my design that was in error. :D I'm interested in why the opamps popped too, I wonder if there is a bodge that can be added to existing units to protect the opamps from this i

I just checked my TM501 (Not TM501A) modules, all four of them in my collection have Q12 on the left, Q10 on the right. I also just plugged my tester module in to each and the +15 and -15 LED's lit ok

On my unit I have the binding posts as follows: Hi: Red Lo: Black -15V: Green Gnd: White +15V: Red +5V: Red Which is how the photos on the Tek wiki of the Tek made units have it. (I also have the Hi a

I can vouch for Craig, I bought a TM5006 filled with calibration modules from him, and a second purchase of 2467 accessories. He's legit. :) Regards, Jared.

The mistake with the diode designation was fixed in a later revision of the manual. If you download the latest, it'll have all the problems fixed that are found to date. As for the knob, mine doesn't

And now resistors are ordered from Hi-Fi Collective. I found they have a large stock of Allen Bradley resistors for a decent price and good shipping rates, so once they arrive, I'll be able to get som

My next step is finding a 1/8W 47ohm carbon comp resistor or two... Tiny things, about 4mm long.. I don't think I'd even be able to find one in Akihabara here in Tokyo... seems 1/4W and up are far mor

Hi all, The resistor in question is definitely 47ohm, I was able to read the colour code on the resistor, so I assume it is required for damping or the like instead of just a former. I think I'll try

That would be awesome and greatly appreciated! :) The wire looks to be around 32 or 33 AWG. If you are able to whip something up, are you able to send it to Japan? I can paypal you any costs involved.

Pending further testing of the transistors, I wouldn't expect those hFE numbers to be indicative of a faulty part unless they were single digits or up in the thousands, ie. orders of magnitude away fr

Hi all, I recently got myself an SG503 Leveled Sine Wave generator for a good price and I am currently repairing it back to operational condition. I found a few components in the oscillator section we

Here's the knobs from my PG502, the red line on the paper indicates where the white line on the small knob is to help with indexing. https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/album?id=260906 If you need dimension

Ok, I've corrected the dimensions in the manual now. The PCB's were made from the latest revision, but I pulled the dimensions from the 3D files just before that final tweak. The manual has been updat

I have uploaded a 3D file into the files section for the front panel that should be 3D printable, taken directly from my 3D design files. I haven't tried printing it, but it should print ok with minim