Date   
Re: Seeing if these plug-ins have value...

John
 

Harvey,

Canadian amateurs call signs are VEn or VAn where n=0-9. VKn is the prefix for Australia where n=0-9. Just thought I'd correct that.

John Proctor
VK2DLP

Re: 2247A PSU Troubleshooting

Nicholas Keller
 

I replaced the ZS diodes with the recommended mouser part but still no
life, so I will examine other possible faults as suggested by Chipbee/JC

Stuck Plug-in with broken handle

John Kolb
 

what's the best way to remove a plug-in with a broken handle? I plugged it in knowing the handle was missing, but assumed I could unplug it by removing the plug-ins on either side. Testing a couple of 7D15's in a 7834. First one counts period with input A but not freq with input B, so I assume Input B problem if I've managed to get all the switches set correctly. Stuck plug-in makes pilot light cycle off and on, so power supply short.

John

help TEK 491 band C oscillator components

Miguel Work
 

Hi, I´m fixing a tek 491, PLL is not working, one of the varactor diodes inputs is shorted. I have opened the oscillator box, is the second version, solid state, and it there´s two burned components, a diode? and a resistor. I have uploaded some photos in the album:

https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/album?id=88502
https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/photo/88502/5?p=Created,,,20,2,0,0
https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/photo/88502/4?p=Created,,,20,2,0,0
https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/photo/88502/0?p=Created,,,20,2,0,0


Can some one help me with the correct values?

Thanks
Regards

Miguel

Re: My new, old Tek 2205 has concave traces

da_costa@...
 

Good day, I bought a 2205 and am also experiencing the same symptoms, the beam(s) get progressively more bowed towards the up & lower ends of the screen and get distorted/displaced as the intensity is increased.

Checked R888 thru R992 and values are well in spec. Geometry & Astigmatism voltages are well within design specs.

All lower voltages (205V included) are bang on, the high voltage sits at ~-1750V and as I increase the intensity it increases by ~50V to ~-1700V.

Every so often but rarely the screen flickers and goes back to normal, but this is rare and when I power off & back on the issue comes back.

Was wondering if anyone could help with some pointers as to what may be causing the issue.

Thank you.

Re: Stuck Plug-in with broken handle

 

This has been discussed before on TekScopes so you can look through the archives to find solutions.

Usually the first thing to do is flip the scope upside down and remove the bottom cover of the scope. That gives you access from below and sometimes it even allows the plugin to fall-up away from the rail it is stuck on giving you a better chance to get it out.

The next thing to do is remove all the other plugins so you can get you hand behind the stuck plugin. That way you can apply firm pressure (but not too much) from the rear to free it.

If you talk a look at how a plugin with a pull tab couples to the slot in the rail to lock in place you will see that that if you make yourself a very slender, narrow tool that can be inserted far enough into the rectangular opening where the missing pull tab would be you can sometimes release the stuck plugin by pressing down where it is locking.

Don't get too frustrated, it is generally not easy to remove a stuck plugin without the pull tab. The locking mechanism is very effective, so don't be surprised if you go through a lot of trial and error failed attempts before you free the plugin.

Dennis Tillman W7PF

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of
John Kolb
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2019 2:46 PM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: [TekScopes] Stuck Plug-in with broken handle


what's the best way to remove a plug-in with a broken handle? I
plugged it in knowing the handle was missing, but assumed I could
unplug it by removing the plug-ins on either side. Testing a couple
of 7D15's in a 7834. First one counts period with input A but not
freq with input B, so I assume Input B problem if I've managed to get
all the switches set correctly. Stuck plug-in makes pilot light cycle
off and on, so power supply short.

John



--
Dennis Tillman W7PF
TekScopes Moderator

Re: Stuck Plug-in with broken handle

Craig Sawyers
 

Don't get too frustrated, it is generally not easy to remove a stuck plugin without the pull tab.
The
locking mechanism is very effective, so don't be surprised if you go through a lot of trial and
error
failed attempts before you free the plugin.

Dennis Tillman W7PF
That is certainly true Dennis! It is not easy to free a plugin without a pull tab. I have some 7000
series mainframes in my lockup that have stuck plugins; I'll get them out when I get rountuit ;-)

But your recipe is certainly the best shot.

Craig

Re: Stuck Plug-in with broken handle

Harvey White
 

On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 15:23:23 -0700, you wrote:

One possibility is to pull it upwards and then out. You hope that the
latch is marginal enough to allow it to release.

The other options are to attack it from the bottom.

I don't think that the latch parts are different from plugin to
plugin, so any latch you get from any plugin may provide parts.

Getting a tab that has the plugin name can be interesting.

3D printing may help, and may not.

Harvey





This has been discussed before on TekScopes so you can look through the archives to find solutions.

Usually the first thing to do is flip the scope upside down and remove the bottom cover of the scope. That gives you access from below and sometimes it even allows the plugin to fall-up away from the rail it is stuck on giving you a better chance to get it out.

The next thing to do is remove all the other plugins so you can get you hand behind the stuck plugin. That way you can apply firm pressure (but not too much) from the rear to free it.

If you talk a look at how a plugin with a pull tab couples to the slot in the rail to lock in place you will see that that if you make yourself a very slender, narrow tool that can be inserted far enough into the rectangular opening where the missing pull tab would be you can sometimes release the stuck plugin by pressing down where it is locking.

Don't get too frustrated, it is generally not easy to remove a stuck plugin without the pull tab. The locking mechanism is very effective, so don't be surprised if you go through a lot of trial and error failed attempts before you free the plugin.

Dennis Tillman W7PF

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of
John Kolb
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2019 2:46 PM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: [TekScopes] Stuck Plug-in with broken handle


what's the best way to remove a plug-in with a broken handle? I
plugged it in knowing the handle was missing, but assumed I could
unplug it by removing the plug-ins on either side. Testing a couple
of 7D15's in a 7834. First one counts period with input A but not
freq with input B, so I assume Input B problem if I've managed to get
all the switches set correctly. Stuck plug-in makes pilot light cycle
off and on, so power supply short.

John

Re: Stuck Plug-in with broken handle

John Kolb
 

Thanks, Dennis. Didn't think to look in the archives until after I posted my question. Got the plug-in free after removing the side panel of the scope and PI. Didn't know until now the latch works completely differently between 7000's and TM500 PI's. Found the latch not broken but missing completely.

John

On 3/31/2019 3:23 PM, Dennis Tillman W7PF wrote:
This has been discussed before on TekScopes so you can look through the archives to find solutions.
Usually the first thing to do is flip the scope upside down and remove the bottom cover of the scope. That gives you access from below and sometimes it even allows the plugin to fall-up away from the rail it is stuck on giving you a better chance to get it out.
The next thing to do is remove all the other plugins so you can get you hand behind the stuck plugin. That way you can apply firm pressure (but not too much) from the rear to free it.
If you talk a look at how a plugin with a pull tab couples to the slot in the rail to lock in place you will see that that if you make yourself a very slender, narrow tool that can be inserted far enough into the rectangular opening where the missing pull tab would be you can sometimes release the stuck plugin by pressing down where it is locking.
Don't get too frustrated, it is generally not easy to remove a stuck plugin without the pull tab. The locking mechanism is very effective, so don't be surprised if you go through a lot of trial and error failed attempts before you free the plugin.
Dennis Tillman W7PF

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of
John Kolb
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2019 2:46 PM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: [TekScopes] Stuck Plug-in with broken handle


what's the best way to remove a plug-in with a broken handle? I
plugged it in knowing the handle was missing, but assumed I could
unplug it by removing the plug-ins on either side. Testing a couple
of 7D15's in a 7834. First one counts period with input A but not
freq with input B, so I assume Input B problem if I've managed to get
all the switches set correctly. Stuck plug-in makes pilot light cycle
off and on, so power supply short.

John

Re: Stuck Plug-in with broken handle

Jim Ford
 

What about 5000 series plug-ins?  My 5103N D10 came with a 5B10N and two 5A15Ns, all without the handles.  I guess the previous owner didn't want somebody to remove the plug-ins!   I've been able to remove them by tugging on the knobs and BNC connectors, but that's obviously not optimum. Does anyone have any of the handle assemblies for 5000 series plug-ins they would be willing to part with?I am in Southern California, USA.Thanks.Jim Ford Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------From: Dennis Tillman W7PF <@Dennis_Tillman_W7PF> Date: 3/31/19 3:23 PM (GMT-08:00) To: TekScopes@groups.io Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Stuck Plug-in with broken handle This has been discussed before on TekScopes so you can look through the archives to find solutions. Usually the first thing to do is flip the scope upside down and remove the bottom cover of the scope. That gives you access from below and sometimes it even allows the plugin to fall-up away from the rail it is stuck on giving you a better chance to get it out.The next thing to do is remove all the other plugins so you can get you hand behind the stuck plugin. That way you can apply firm pressure (but not too much) from the rear to free it.If you talk a look at how a plugin with a pull tab couples to the slot in the rail to lock in place you will see that that if you make yourself a very slender, narrow tool that can be inserted far enough into the rectangular opening where the missing pull tab would be you can sometimes release the stuck plugin by pressing down where it is locking.Don't get too frustrated, it is generally not easy to remove a stuck plugin without the pull tab. The locking mechanism is very effective, so don't be surprised if you go through a lot of trial and error failed attempts before you free the plugin. Dennis Tillman W7PF> -----Original Message-----> From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of> John Kolb> Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2019 2:46 PM> To: TekScopes@groups.io> Subject: [TekScopes] Stuck Plug-in with broken handle> > > what's the best way to remove a plug-in with a broken handle? I> plugged it in knowing the handle was missing, but assumed I could> unplug it by removing the plug-ins on either side.  Testing a couple> of 7D15's in a 7834.  First one counts period with input A but not> freq with input B, so I assume Input B problem if I've managed to get> all the switches set correctly.  Stuck plug-in makes pilot light cycle> off and on, so power supply short.> > John> > -- Dennis Tillman W7PFTekScopes Moderator

Re: Stuck Plug-in with broken handle

ROLYNN PRECHTL K7DFW
 

It has been mentioned here by someone else that a quick and dirty way to remove these cranky plugins, missing the latch assembly, is to use a BNC "T" connector as a pull handle. Put it on one of the front panel BNCs and pull to remove.


Rolynn
Tek Bvtn & Sunset 1966-1971

Re: Stuck Plug-in with broken handle

Harvey White
 

On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 17:56:26 -0700, you wrote:

What about 5000 series plug-ins?  My 5103N D10 came with a 5B10N and two 5A15Ns, all without the handles.  I guess the previous owner didn't want somebody to remove the plug-ins!   I've been able to remove them by tugging on the knobs and BNC connectors, but that's obviously not optimum. Does anyone have any of the handle assemblies for 5000 series plug-ins they would be willing to part with?I am in Southern California, USA.Thanks.Jim Ford Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
I have replacements for the TM5000 series, the ones that come in about
3 pieces.

Don't know if they'll fit. I'll see if I can find out what's on my
500 series scope plugins.

They're 3D printed, though.

Harvey
-------- Original message --------From: Dennis Tillman W7PF <@Dennis_Tillman_W7PF> Date: 3/31/19 3:23 PM (GMT-08:00) To: TekScopes@groups.io Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Stuck Plug-in with broken handle This has been discussed before on TekScopes so you can look through the archives to find solutions. Usually the first thing to do is flip the scope upside down and remove the bottom cover of the scope. That gives you access from below and sometimes it even allows the plugin to fall-up away from the rail it is stuck on giving you a better chance to get it out.The next thing to do is remove all the other plugins so you can get you hand behind the stuck plugin. That way you can apply firm pressure (but not too much) from the rear to free it.If you talk a look at how a plugin with a pull tab couples to the slot in the rail to lock in place you will see that that if you make yourself a very slender, narrow tool that can be inserted far enough into the rectangular opening where the missing
pull tab would be you can sometimes release the stuck plugin by pressing down where it is locking.Don't get too frustrated, it is generally not easy to remove a stuck plugin without the pull tab. The locking mechanism is very effective, so don't be surprised if you go through a lot of trial and error failed attempts before you free the plugin. Dennis Tillman W7PF> -----Original Message-----> From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of> John Kolb> Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2019 2:46 PM> To: TekScopes@groups.io> Subject: [TekScopes] Stuck Plug-in with broken handle> > > what's the best way to remove a plug-in with a broken handle? I> plugged it in knowing the handle was missing, but assumed I could> unplug it by removing the plug-ins on either side.  Testing a couple> of 7D15's in a 7834.  First one counts period with input A but not> freq with input B, so I assume Input B problem if I've managed to get> all the switches set correctly.  Stuck plug-in makes pilot
light cycle> off and on, so power supply short.> > John> > -- Dennis Tillman W7PFTekScopes Moderator

Re: Stuck Plug-in with broken handle

John Kolb
 

The latch assembly looks like it might be the same on the 5000 series as on the TM500 modules. I don't have any 5000 modules to look at although I have a Storz Instrument Co. mainframe which looks as if it might be a rebranded 5440, since it doesn't the scope tube cover on the rear like most of the 5xxx I've seen pictures of do.

7000 latch mechanism is completely different.

As suggested elsewhere, a BNC T connector makes a great handle.

John

On 3/31/2019 5:56 PM, Jim Ford wrote:
What about 5000 series plug-ins?  My 5103N D10 came with a 5B10N and two 5A15Ns, all without the handles.  I guess the previous owner didn't want somebody to remove the plug-ins!   I've been able to remove them by tugging on the knobs and BNC connectors, but that's obviously not optimum. Does anyone have any of the handle assemblies for 5000 series plug-ins they would be willing to part with?I am in Southern California, USA.Thanks.Jim Ford Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

Re: Stuck Plug-in with broken handle

John Kolb
 

You can look in the Operator manuals at the mechanical drawing and mechanical parts for different scopes and plugins and see if any numbers match.

John

On 3/31/2019 8:23 PM, Harvey White wrote:
On Sun, 31 Mar 2019 17:56:26 -0700, you wrote:
I have replacements for the TM5000 series, the ones that come in about
3 pieces.
Don't know if they'll fit. I'll see if I can find out what's on my
500 series scope plugins.
They're 3D printed, though.
Harvey

Re: Stuck Plug-in with broken handle

nonIonizing EMF
 

On Sun, Mar 31, 2019 at 08:23 PM, Harvey White wrote:


They're 3D printed, though.
Is it just me, or is searching through the Photos and Files not working correctly on the groups.io site?

I was wondering what was available for 3D printed parts. I see on Thingverse ( https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:Tektronix ) and Yeggi ( https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:Tektronix ) some 3D printed parts... though more on the groups.io site just scrolling through the posts. The search isn't working so well.

A Google search using the following syntax is more effective however: tektronix 3D printed site:https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/

Question Regarding XY Mode

n4buq
 

I have, among other models, a 2465B and I have what I assume to is a rather basic question regarding XY mode.

Placing the scope in XY mode and with an AC signal on CH1, with no other channels set to display, I get a display pattern that appears to have both X and Y components (e.g. a 45-degree moving beam). Without a signal on a vertical input, I would have assumed that CH1's voltage would affect only the X and without any vertical input, the beam would move only horizontally but apparently that's not the case.

XY mode does work as I'd expect with signals on, say, CH1 and CH2, but with only one signal on CH1, I didn't expect to see a vertical component. Is there something about that setup that causes the scope to assume a vertical value that's, maybe, equivalent to the horizontal component when no vertical signal is supplied?

If this is outlined somewhere in the manuals, then I apologize in advance and maybe someone can point me to that. From what I've found, though, XY mode seems to be covered pretty lightly in the manuals I have.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

Re: Question Regarding XY Mode

Siggi
 

Hey Barry,

IIRC, CH1 provides the X deflection in XY mode. You can then display any or
all of the e input channels under that X deflection, including CH1. This is
a little confusing, as you'll simply produce a diagonal line on the screen
(modulo X deflection bandwidth constraints).

There has surely been discussion of this before on the forum, see e.g.
https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/message/61714.

Siggi

On Mon, Apr 1, 2019 at 9:14 AM n4buq <n4buq@...> wrote:

I have, among other models, a 2465B and I have what I assume to is a
rather basic question regarding XY mode.

Placing the scope in XY mode and with an AC signal on CH1, with no other
channels set to display, I get a display pattern that appears to have both
X and Y components (e.g. a 45-degree moving beam). Without a signal on a
vertical input, I would have assumed that CH1's voltage would affect only
the X and without any vertical input, the beam would move only horizontally
but apparently that's not the case.

XY mode does work as I'd expect with signals on, say, CH1 and CH2, but
with only one signal on CH1, I didn't expect to see a vertical component.
Is there something about that setup that causes the scope to assume a
vertical value that's, maybe, equivalent to the horizontal component when
no vertical signal is supplied?

If this is outlined somewhere in the manuals, then I apologize in advance
and maybe someone can point me to that. From what I've found, though, XY
mode seems to be covered pretty lightly in the manuals I have.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ




SG502 frequency dial question

Tim Phillips
 

From Tim P (UK)

Re the SG502 - should the fine frequency dial / knob just go round and
round with no end stops? (It isn't the reduction drive slipping, I
checked). It seems to work OK.
Thanks
Tim

Re: Question Regarding XY Mode

n4buq
 

Hi Siggi,

Okay - I read through that and it appears that I'm seeing the same results as others. Turning off CH1 will then allow the signal at CH1 to move the beam strictly horizontally (at least it does on my 2445 and I presume it will on the 2465B as well). Not sure I see that in the manuals though...

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

----- Original Message -----
From: "Siggi" <siggi@...>
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Sent: Monday, April 1, 2019 8:35:14 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Question Regarding XY Mode

Hey Barry,

IIRC, CH1 provides the X deflection in XY mode. You can then display any or
all of the e input channels under that X deflection, including CH1. This is
a little confusing, as you'll simply produce a diagonal line on the screen
(modulo X deflection bandwidth constraints).

There has surely been discussion of this before on the forum, see e.g.
https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/message/61714.

Siggi

On Mon, Apr 1, 2019 at 9:14 AM n4buq <n4buq@...> wrote:

I have, among other models, a 2465B and I have what I assume to is a
rather basic question regarding XY mode.

Placing the scope in XY mode and with an AC signal on CH1, with no other
channels set to display, I get a display pattern that appears to have both
X and Y components (e.g. a 45-degree moving beam). Without a signal on a
vertical input, I would have assumed that CH1's voltage would affect only
the X and without any vertical input, the beam would move only horizontally
but apparently that's not the case.

XY mode does work as I'd expect with signals on, say, CH1 and CH2, but
with only one signal on CH1, I didn't expect to see a vertical component.
Is there something about that setup that causes the scope to assume a
vertical value that's, maybe, equivalent to the horizontal component when
no vertical signal is supplied?

If this is outlined somewhere in the manuals, then I apologize in advance
and maybe someone can point me to that. From what I've found, though, XY
mode seems to be covered pretty lightly in the manuals I have.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ






Re: Question Regarding XY Mode

n4buq
 

Hi Siggi,

Okay - I read through that and it appears that I'm seeing the same results as others. Turning off CH1 will then allow the signal at CH1 to move the beam strictly horizontally (at least it does on my 2445 and I presume it will on the 2465B as well). Not sure I see that in the manuals though...

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

----- Original Message -----
From: "Siggi" <siggi@...>
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Sent: Monday, April 1, 2019 8:35:14 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Question Regarding XY Mode

Hey Barry,

IIRC, CH1 provides the X deflection in XY mode. You can then display any or
all of the e input channels under that X deflection, including CH1. This is
a little confusing, as you'll simply produce a diagonal line on the screen
(modulo X deflection bandwidth constraints).

There has surely been discussion of this before on the forum, see e.g.
https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/message/61714.

Siggi

On Mon, Apr 1, 2019 at 9:14 AM n4buq <n4buq@...> wrote:

I have, among other models, a 2465B and I have what I assume to is a
rather basic question regarding XY mode.

Placing the scope in XY mode and with an AC signal on CH1, with no other
channels set to display, I get a display pattern that appears to have both
X and Y components (e.g. a 45-degree moving beam). Without a signal on a
vertical input, I would have assumed that CH1's voltage would affect only
the X and without any vertical input, the beam would move only horizontally
but apparently that's not the case.

XY mode does work as I'd expect with signals on, say, CH1 and CH2, but
with only one signal on CH1, I didn't expect to see a vertical component.
Is there something about that setup that causes the scope to assume a
vertical value that's, maybe, equivalent to the horizontal component when
no vertical signal is supplied?

If this is outlined somewhere in the manuals, then I apologize in advance
and maybe someone can point me to that. From what I've found, though, XY
mode seems to be covered pretty lightly in the manuals I have.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ