Date   
Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

stefan_trethan
 

Based on your recommendation I now have a demo unit of the Metcal
MX5210 here, with the MX-DS1 desoldering gun.
But there is a problem with it - it is incredibly loud, measured at 95dB(A).
I have the correct pressure and everything installed per the
instructions, but surely this can't be right.
The venturi exhausts directly into the handle, which is completely
empty, no silcencer of any kind, and the air comes out via a slot into
your palm which seems odd too.

Please let me know if your MX-DS1 is built the same, or if there
should be some kind of silencer in the handle which is missing on
mine. The sound level is completely unacceptable, not just for
co-workers but also for the operator, 95dB is mandatory hearing
protection level loud...

ST

Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

Bruce Lane
 

Mine works exactly the same way, but it doesn't seem overly loud to me.
Granted, I never measured it with a sound level meter (as, apparently,
you have), but I never felt the need to.

You might have it operating at too high a pressure. It should be right
around 100PSI, even. I would also check to make sure all the filters,
are clean, all the seals are present and working (there's a fat 'o-ring'
style seal around the desolder tip and a perimeter gasket lining the top
half of the collection chamber), and the venturi itself isn't cracked or
loose.

I hope that helps.

On 06-Sep-18 05:21, stefan_trethan wrote:
Based on your recommendation I now have a demo unit of the Metcal
MX5210 here, with the MX-DS1 desoldering gun.
But there is a problem with it - it is incredibly loud, measured at 95dB(A).
I have the correct pressure and everything installed per the
instructions, but surely this can't be right.
The venturi exhausts directly into the handle, which is completely
empty, no silcencer of any kind, and the air comes out via a slot into
your palm which seems odd too.

Please let me know if your MX-DS1 is built the same, or if there
should be some kind of silencer in the handle which is missing on
mine. The sound level is completely unacceptable, not just for
co-workers but also for the operator, 95dB is mandatory hearing
protection level loud...

ST



--
---
Bruce Lane, ARS KC7GR
http://www.bluefeathertech.com
kyrrin (at) bluefeathertech dot com
"Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati" (Red Green)

Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

EricJ
 

Same here. What pressure are you working at? I thought the recommended pressure was 80 psi. Of note also is the fact that safety standards regarding hearing are time weighted. 95 dbA is safe for short periods, something like 1.5 hours a day, which is likely all you're going to be exposed to using a desoldering iron since they're only used in short bursts. At that time exposure there is supposed to be zero chance of long term hearing loss. Personally I haven't found mine objectionable at all, but then I'm not working in a library. I just checked mine with a db measuring app on my phone (probably not very accurate) and at 3 feet it runs right around 80 dbA at 80 psi.
--Eric
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

-------- Original message --------From: Bruce Lane <@kc7gr> Date: 9/6/18 8:44 AM (GMT-06:00) To: TekScopes@groups.io Subject: Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire
Mine works exactly the same way, but it doesn't seem overly loud to me.
Granted, I never measured it with a sound level meter (as, apparently,
you have), but I never felt the need to.

You might have it operating at too high a pressure. It should be right
around 100PSI, even. I would also check to make sure all the filters,
are clean, all the seals are present and working (there's a fat 'o-ring'
style seal around the desolder tip and a perimeter gasket lining the top
half of the collection chamber), and the venturi itself isn't cracked or
loose.

I hope that helps.

On 06-Sep-18 05:21, stefan_trethan wrote:
Based on your recommendation I now have a demo unit of the Metcal
MX5210 here, with the MX-DS1 desoldering gun.
But there is a problem with it - it is incredibly loud, measured at 95dB(A).
I have the correct pressure and everything installed per the
instructions, but surely this can't be right.
The venturi exhausts directly into the handle, which is completely
empty, no silcencer of any kind, and the air comes out via a slot into
your palm which seems odd too.

Please let me know if your MX-DS1 is built the same, or if there
should be some kind of silencer in the handle which is missing on
mine. The sound level is completely unacceptable, not just for
co-workers but also for the operator, 95dB is mandatory hearing
protection level loud...

ST



--
---
Bruce Lane, ARS KC7GR
http://www.bluefeathertech.com
kyrrin (at) bluefeathertech dot com
"Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati" (Red Green)

Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

stefan_trethan
 

I have it on 80psi as per the manual.
Can you please look into the slot at the back (palm side) and see if
there is any sound dampening material inside?
I can take off the side of the handle with two screws and it is
completely empty, the air from the venturi just comes out into this
space from a hole in the casting. All the seals are just fine
(everything is new), and it makes no difference if the suction side is
blocked or not, all the noise comes from the wild stream of air
exiting into the handle.

You definitely couldn't have a conversation within a few feet of this
thing, and even across the room it would be incredibly annoying.
It sounds like a loud compressed air blow-out gun (not surprising
since there is absolutely no silencer on the output).
My modified chinese desoldering station, wich also has a venturi
vacuum generator, makes just 60dB(A).

60dB(A) is quite acceptable in a shared lab/office space, but the
95dB(A) Metcal is absolutely unacceptable, even for the operator, let
alone everyone else.

I have made photos of my demo unit with the handle disassembled:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/v3TY1V5umNdp4UMB6
Here you can see the slot at the back of the handle where the air comes out:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/KNSNjr6yX5fVe5mt5

Please let me know if this is normal, or if my unit is defective or
missing parts.
I will take it up with the vendor, but in my experience they often
know little about the tools they sell and have not used them.
Unless there are parts missing and this can be remedied it will go
back, no way I can use this.

ST

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 3:44 PM Bruce Lane <@kc7gr> wrote:

Mine works exactly the same way, but it doesn't seem overly loud to me.
Granted, I never measured it with a sound level meter (as, apparently,
you have), but I never felt the need to.

You might have it operating at too high a pressure. It should be right
around 100PSI, even. I would also check to make sure all the filters,
are clean, all the seals are present and working (there's a fat 'o-ring'
style seal around the desolder tip and a perimeter gasket lining the top
half of the collection chamber), and the venturi itself isn't cracked or
loose.

I hope that helps.

On 06-Sep-18 05:21, stefan_trethan wrote:
Based on your recommendation I now have a demo unit of the Metcal
MX5210 here, with the MX-DS1 desoldering gun.
But there is a problem with it - it is incredibly loud, measured at 95dB(A).
I have the correct pressure and everything installed per the
instructions, but surely this can't be right.
The venturi exhausts directly into the handle, which is completely
empty, no silcencer of any kind, and the air comes out via a slot into
your palm which seems odd too.

Please let me know if your MX-DS1 is built the same, or if there
should be some kind of silencer in the handle which is missing on
mine. The sound level is completely unacceptable, not just for
co-workers but also for the operator, 95dB is mandatory hearing
protection level loud...

ST



--
---
Bruce Lane, ARS KC7GR
http://www.bluefeathertech.com
kyrrin (at) bluefeathertech dot com
"Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati" (Red Green)


Re: TDS3032 Loosing its GPIB Address

David Kuhn
 

Sorry, I just saw your reply; thank you!

It does not keep the date correctly, but it doesn't not exactly loose it
100% either. It seems to loose about 12 hours per day, or perhaps, the RTC
is not working unless it is powered on.

As far as firmware, I doubt it it is up to date. I don't want to break
what is not broken by updating the firmware and have the update fail half
way through. I don't think it's an issue, because the scope just started
this and I have been using this scope for about 10 months now. I should
update the firmware, at some point, when I buy the backup to this scope. I
do have fresh (as fresh as can be since they haven't been made since about
2012) floppies and several USB-Floppy drives (pure data security; no one
can read them anymore -LOL) that I can use to make the firmware update
disks.

Question: Can the firmware be updated through the GPIB? The only way I
know is through the floppy drive.

Please tell me that Dallas DRAM (grrrr) is socketed and not soldered to the
PCB?

I think I can get Dallas DRAMS from China, but I imagine they are just as
old NOS with dying batteries in them? Can you kindly confirm the I.C. part
number?

Thanks very much, again, for your reply an knowledge!

Dave

On Mon, Sep 3, 2018 at 2:39 PM zenith5106 <hahi@...> wrote:

On Mon, Sep 3, 2018 at 04:43 PM, David Kuhn wrote:


Is there a lithium battery in the scope or in the I/O Module (I have the
I/O module with VGA, RS232 and GPIB).
There's no memory in the module but there is a DALLAS DS1742W-150
Timekeeping RAM
on the main board in the scope.

Does your scope have the latest firmware ?
Is the date & time clock working as expected ?

/Håkan



Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

EricJ
 

I'm not quite sure how a venturi desoldering iron could work very well without making more than 60dbA. I almost have that much background noise in my house with fans and refrigerator running. Even a very very quiet library is 40+ish dbA. How does your Chinese unit WORK compared to the Metcal? I guess to me, the sound level just isn't objectionable, but then I spent more time in heavy industrial manufacturing environment than in quiet offices - for decades. Not sure how the conversation is applicable - if you're working you shouldn't be doing much talking. Is this not a working space? And desoldering is normally a couple quick bursts and you're done. Total cumulative time the air is flowing is seconds per joint. If you don't like it, guess it's just not for you.
--Eric
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

-------- Original message --------From: stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...> Date: 9/6/18 9:54 AM (GMT-06:00) To: TekScopes@groups.io Subject: Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire
I have it on 80psi as per the manual.
Can you please look into the slot at the back (palm side) and see if
there is any sound dampening material inside?
I can take off the side of the handle with two screws and it is
completely empty, the air from the venturi just comes out into this
space from a hole in the casting. All the seals are just fine
(everything is new), and it makes no difference if the suction side is
blocked or not, all the noise comes from the wild stream of air
exiting into the handle.

You definitely couldn't have a conversation within a few feet of this
thing, and even across the room it would be incredibly annoying.
It sounds like a loud compressed air blow-out gun (not surprising
since there is absolutely no silencer on the output).
My modified chinese desoldering station, wich also has a venturi
vacuum generator, makes just 60dB(A).

60dB(A) is quite acceptable in a shared lab/office space, but the
95dB(A) Metcal is absolutely unacceptable, even for the operator, let
alone everyone else.

I have made photos of my demo unit with the handle disassembled:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/v3TY1V5umNdp4UMB6
Here you can see the slot at the back of the handle where the air comes out:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/KNSNjr6yX5fVe5mt5

Please let me know if this is normal, or if my unit is defective or
missing parts.
I will take it up with the vendor, but in my experience they often
know little about the tools they sell and have not used them.
Unless there are parts missing and this can be remedied it will go
back, no way I can use this.

ST

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 3:44 PM Bruce Lane <@kc7gr> wrote:

         Mine works exactly the same way, but it doesn't seem overly loud to me.
Granted, I never measured it with a sound level meter (as, apparently,
you have), but I never felt the need to.

         You might have it operating at too high a pressure. It should be right
around 100PSI, even. I would also check to make sure all the filters,
are clean, all the seals are present and working (there's a fat 'o-ring'
style seal around the desolder tip and a perimeter gasket lining the top
half of the collection chamber), and the venturi itself isn't cracked or
loose.

         I hope that helps.

On 06-Sep-18 05:21, stefan_trethan wrote:
Based on your recommendation I now have a demo unit of the Metcal
MX5210 here, with the MX-DS1 desoldering gun.
But there is a problem with it - it is incredibly loud, measured at 95dB(A).
I have the correct pressure and everything installed per the
instructions, but surely this can't be right.
The venturi exhausts directly into the handle, which is completely
empty, no silcencer of any kind, and the air comes out via a slot into
your palm which seems odd too.

Please let me know if your MX-DS1 is built the same, or if there
should be some kind of silencer in the handle which is missing on
mine. The sound level is completely unacceptable, not just for
co-workers but also for the operator, 95dB is mandatory hearing
protection level loud...

ST



--
---
Bruce Lane, ARS KC7GR
http://www.bluefeathertech.com
kyrrin (at) bluefeathertech dot com
"Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati" (Red Green)


Re: Jon BATTERS

EricJ
 

I didn't know him very well, only in passing. Seemed like a good guy though in the contacts I had with him. Pretty humorous and nice guy.
--Eric
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

-------- Original message --------From: "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@...> Date: 9/6/18 2:36 AM (GMT-06:00) To: TekScopes@groups.io Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Jon BATTERS
Has anyone who knew him tried emailing him? Maybe a relative of his has access to his Email account.

Michael A. Terrell
--

-----Original Message-----
From: Vince Vielhaber <vev@...>

Here's the most recent info that I can find.  Dated 9/5/18:
http://www.kldr.com/news/news.php?subaction=showfull&id=1536129290&ucat=2&template=KAJO17Column&
Oregon State Police is investigating and won't be releasing any more info.

Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

David Kuhn
 

Wow, that's about a $950 setup as far as I can see. It looks great though.

I've always used a HAKKO 808 for thru-hole de-soldering and wick. The
Hakko 808 isn't real cheap either and it's supplied (tips, filters,
replacement elements, etc.) can add up. I use it when really necessary.
For easy stuff, I use the old fashion hand pump and wick. When I am
working on more delicate boards, that still have thru-hole, then I use the
Hakko.

I see Hakko has a cheaper FR300-xxx for about $270.00. It looks like it
uses the same tips.

I guess I am a Hakko fanboy (lol). I love their irons and use a 928 setup
daily, with a chisel tip and a micro-tip.

For Hot Air, I tried a Chinese 862D+ and it is pure garbage. It make hot
air but blows the ground faults all the time (My shop is in the basement,
so all lines are on 20 amps GFCI breakers. i need a hot air system that
won't break the bank. Hakko hot air is probably too expensive.

Anyway, sorry for hijacking your thread.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 8:21 AM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:

Based on your recommendation I now have a demo unit of the Metcal
MX5210 here, with the MX-DS1 desoldering gun.
But there is a problem with it - it is incredibly loud, measured at
95dB(A).
I have the correct pressure and everything installed per the
instructions, but surely this can't be right.
The venturi exhausts directly into the handle, which is completely
empty, no silcencer of any kind, and the air comes out via a slot into
your palm which seems odd too.

Please let me know if your MX-DS1 is built the same, or if there
should be some kind of silencer in the handle which is missing on
mine. The sound level is completely unacceptable, not just for
co-workers but also for the operator, 95dB is mandatory hearing
protection level loud...

ST



Re: 7K series - Conceptual question - What's the 3rd most useful plugin

Dave Wise
 

I fixed my mechanical 7A13, but maybe it was lucky. If it's cheap or free, take it anyway; you can always monitor externally. Or maybe you'll be the one to design a retrofit.

Dave Wise
________________________________________
From: TekScopes@groups.io <TekScopes@groups.io> on behalf of Dennis Tillman W7PF <@Dennis_Tillman_W7PF>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2018 4:01 PM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 7K series - Conceptual question - What's the 3rd most useful plugin

Hi Fabio,

Raymond is partially correct.

A 7D14 does not measure period. It is strictly a high frequency (512MHz) counter.
The 7D15 is a universal counter / timer. As such it is far more flexible. It will automatically monitor the trigger signal if it is in a horizontal slot but it CAN also be used in a vertical or slot by connecting the signal being measured by the vertical plugin to the A or B input of the 7D15.

Your choice would depend on what you want to do. Several people have recommended the 7A13. I can add one more important who has told me on several occasions that he thinks the 7A13 is the most useful plugin. That would be the design engineer of the 7A16A, 7A18, 7A24, 7A25 (not produced), and 7A26 plugins, and the 7854 scope.

I like the 7A13 also, and, like you, I was annoyed for many years with the empty slot in my 7704A. I solved the empty slot a long time ago. Unfortunately, I didn't know when to stop.

If you purchase a 7A13 make sure to get one of the digital ones. The plastic used to make the gears in the mechanical 7A13 expand over time and crack off their axle or jam up. This can't be fixed.

Dennis Tillman W7PF

Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

stefan_trethan
 

I'm trying to ascertain if my unit is faulty, not trying to change my
working habits.
It's a shared space for ~5 guys working on various things, from
development stuff to office tasks, including phone calls.
Despite the fairly large room it's very disturbing, even on the other
end (~20m away).
Even if I was just working by myself at home this level of noise would
be a no-go, it's like a vacuum cleaner.

I can't see how this is OK even in a production environment, unless it
was very loud with hearing protection worn anyway.

As for making a venturi work quietly, you just put a silencer on the
output, it is quite simple.
Sure you need to use one that doesn't put up much flow resistance, but
that's all.
The chinese station sucks about -0.8 bar, the Metcal about -0.6 bar,
so less blocked-off vacuum, I will do exact measuremetns and flow
tests tomorrow.
I'll also play around with some sound dampening material, but as it
is, it's going back for sure.

ST

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 5:46 PM EricJ via Groups.Io
<wyzkydd2358=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

I'm not quite sure how a venturi desoldering iron could work very well without making more than 60dbA. I almost have that much background noise in my house with fans and refrigerator running. Even a very very quiet library is 40+ish dbA. How does your Chinese unit WORK compared to the Metcal? I guess to me, the sound level just isn't objectionable, but then I spent more time in heavy industrial manufacturing environment than in quiet offices - for decades. Not sure how the conversation is applicable - if you're working you shouldn't be doing much talking. Is this not a working space? And desoldering is normally a couple quick bursts and you're done. Total cumulative time the air is flowing is seconds per joint. If you don't like it, guess it's just not for you.
--Eric

Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

stefan_trethan
 

David,

I've had those chinese (AOYUE 8hundredsomething) hot air stations for years.
Both at home, and every bench at work has one.

I don't use them that often, maybe once a week, but they have given
absolutely no trouble.
Only a couple of the segments on the temperature display have stopped working.

Yours must be faulty if it trips the RCD, perhaps the heater, I would
try again I've really been very satisfied with the cheap ones.

ST

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 6:04 PM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:

Wow, that's about a $950 setup as far as I can see. It looks great though.

I've always used a HAKKO 808 for thru-hole de-soldering and wick. The
Hakko 808 isn't real cheap either and it's supplied (tips, filters,
replacement elements, etc.) can add up. I use it when really necessary.
For easy stuff, I use the old fashion hand pump and wick. When I am
working on more delicate boards, that still have thru-hole, then I use the
Hakko.

I see Hakko has a cheaper FR300-xxx for about $270.00. It looks like it
uses the same tips.

I guess I am a Hakko fanboy (lol). I love their irons and use a 928 setup
daily, with a chisel tip and a micro-tip.

For Hot Air, I tried a Chinese 862D+ and it is pure garbage. It make hot
air but blows the ground faults all the time (My shop is in the basement,
so all lines are on 20 amps GFCI breakers. i need a hot air system that
won't break the bank. Hakko hot air is probably too expensive.

Anyway, sorry for hijacking your thread.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 8:21 AM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:

Based on your recommendation I now have a demo unit of the Metcal
MX5210 here, with the MX-DS1 desoldering gun.
But there is a problem with it - it is incredibly loud, measured at
95dB(A).
I have the correct pressure and everything installed per the
instructions, but surely this can't be right.
The venturi exhausts directly into the handle, which is completely
empty, no silcencer of any kind, and the air comes out via a slot into
your palm which seems odd too.

Please let me know if your MX-DS1 is built the same, or if there
should be some kind of silencer in the handle which is missing on
mine. The sound level is completely unacceptable, not just for
co-workers but also for the operator, 95dB is mandatory hearing
protection level loud...

ST




Yig info needed YIG-Tek 173

 

I have a Yig-Tek filter, seems to be new, but I cannot find any info on it, or even a Yig-tek catalog.
Does any one have any info on a Model 173 ? It has sma in and out, and has 4 bottom connections, marked +/-, but nothing further. presumably one pair is the heater, and one for tuning but I am not sure what is reasonable for applied voltage and current. any help appreciated! off list is best, at the address below.

all the best,
walter (walter2 -at- sphere.bc.ca)
sphere research corp.

TDS210, schematic and parts required.

Graham Butcher
 

I have 3 of these TDS210 digital scopes, all are now working OK after I replaced the main board in that had acquisition problems, it kept failing at boot time, so I purchased another from Ebay.

I have hunted high and low looking a for schematic for these and cannot find anything. I have the service and the owners manuals that I found on line. Does anyone know where I might be able to get a schematic from as I'd like to try and repair the old board and keep as a spare?

I also would like to source 2 of the screws that hold the front and back casings together at the top, 2 rubber feet from the back and the 2 from the front and one of the smaller knobs for the top row of encoders and one of the tubular grounding springs/braid that goes between the main PCB and the casing please.

Regards Graham

Re: 7K series - Conceptual question - What's the 3rd most useful plugin

fiftythreebuick
 

Hi Fabio-

I would definitely recommend a 7A13. I keep a pair of those in the 7623A that's on my bench and I find them extremely useful and versatile. The later ones have a digital display of the offset voltage. When you need DC coupling AND the ability to see a very small signal riding on top of a large DC voltage, the 7A13 really shines. For checking ripple/stability of a power supply rail, as well.

Tom

Re: TDS210, schematic and parts required.

Colin Herbert
 

Did you try the most likely source?

http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/TDS210

Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of Graham Butcher
Sent: 06 September 2018 14:08
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: [TekScopes] TDS210, schematic and parts required.

I have 3 of these TDS210 digital scopes, all are now working OK after I replaced the main board in that had acquisition problems, it kept failing at boot time, so I purchased another from Ebay.

I have hunted high and low looking a for schematic for these and cannot find anything. I have the service and the owners manuals that I found on line. Does anyone know where I might be able to get a schematic from as I'd like to try and repair the old board and keep as a spare?

I also would like to source 2 of the screws that hold the front and back casings together at the top, 2 rubber feet from the back and the 2 from the front and one of the smaller knobs for the top row of encoders and one of the tubular grounding springs/braid that goes between the main PCB and the casing please.

Regards Graham

Re: 7K series - Conceptual question - What's the 3rd most useful plugin

stefan_trethan
 

The 7D22 is great for low frequency stuff, there isn't much that I'd
rather use to measure small signals, even today.
Same circuit as the AM502. For some reason I find myself using that
far more often than the 7A13 (or DA1855 at work).

The 7D20 is also still a useful, if very basic, digital scope. I'd
fire that up above the fully analog mainframe any day.

Looks like you need not only something to fill that slot Fabio, but
also another mainframe to put on top ;-)

ST

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 6:37 PM fiftythreebuick <ae5i@...> wrote:

Hi Fabio-

I would definitely recommend a 7A13. I keep a pair of those in the 7623A that's on my bench and I find them extremely useful and versatile. The later ones have a digital display of the offset voltage. When you need DC coupling AND the ability to see a very small signal riding on top of a large DC voltage, the 7A13 really shines. For checking ripple/stability of a power supply rail, as well.

Tom


Re: 7K series - Conceptual question - What's the 3rd most useful plugin

bobh@joba.com
 

Raymond,

Here's a link to an article on modifying a 5CT1N. I would like to mod mine but haven't got a round tuit. Not sure if the article is by the fellow you referred to.

http://www.paulvdiyblogs.net/2017/12/building-curve-tracer.html

Bob.

-----Original Message-----
From: Raymond Domp Frank
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2018 7:23 PM
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 7K series - Conceptual question - What's the 3rd most useful plugin

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 04:08 AM, Harvey White wrote:


I do like the 7CT1N
So do I. I sold mine, for the following reasons:
- I have both a 576 and 577 dedicated curve tracer
- A while ago I bought a "home-made" 5CT1N-like module (yes, for the 5000-series), designed and built by an ex-Tek employee. The 5CT1N module, having no readout (hence -N), exists for the non-readout, slow 5000 mainframes but this one is equipped with read-out functionality, built with 7000-readout components. This allows digital, on-screen readout for step, horizontal /div. and vertical /div. All hand-wired, no copper traces! Multi-position switches instead of pots for selection.

Raymond

Re: TDS210, schematic and parts required.

Graham Butcher
 

Yes I did try there and thats where I downloaded the user and service manuals but it has no schematics (in fact it has a request just below the tag for the manuals requesting schematics to be uploaded) It also of course does not provide any linkage or reference to spare parts unless I missed something?

Graham

Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

David Kuhn
 

" Yours must be faulty if it trips the RCD, perhaps the heater, I would
try again I've really been very satisfied with the cheap ones. "

Okay; thanks. I should take it apart and make sure it is wired okay. I
think it is. It does work, but once it's been running for a few minutes,
it kills the power.

The shop is wired with separate 20 amp circuits and 12 gauge wire. 20
years ago, I went a little cheap, and rather than GFCI breakers, I ran the
20 amp lines out of the breaker box and then through a 20 AMP GFCI outlet
and then to the shop. Nothing else is tripping it except that hot air
station. Either it is drawing too much current, or those outlets are
failing. Upstairs, in the last year, I've had to replace three of them
that would not trip at all anymore. I think they only have a limited
lifetime.

I'll also have to take the hot air station apart and check that its mains
is wired correctly, but that wouldn't explain why it's fine for a few
minutes and the the GFCI outlet trips. i would lean more towards the
outlet itself.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 12:23 PM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
wrote:

David,

I've had those chinese (AOYUE 8hundredsomething) hot air stations for
years.
Both at home, and every bench at work has one.

I don't use them that often, maybe once a week, but they have given
absolutely no trouble.
Only a couple of the segments on the temperature display have stopped
working.

Yours must be faulty if it trips the RCD, perhaps the heater, I would
try again I've really been very satisfied with the cheap ones.

ST


On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 6:04 PM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:

Wow, that's about a $950 setup as far as I can see. It looks great
though.

I've always used a HAKKO 808 for thru-hole de-soldering and wick. The
Hakko 808 isn't real cheap either and it's supplied (tips, filters,
replacement elements, etc.) can add up. I use it when really necessary.
For easy stuff, I use the old fashion hand pump and wick. When I am
working on more delicate boards, that still have thru-hole, then I use
the
Hakko.

I see Hakko has a cheaper FR300-xxx for about $270.00. It looks like it
uses the same tips.

I guess I am a Hakko fanboy (lol). I love their irons and use a 928
setup
daily, with a chisel tip and a micro-tip.

For Hot Air, I tried a Chinese 862D+ and it is pure garbage. It make hot
air but blows the ground faults all the time (My shop is in the basement,
so all lines are on 20 amps GFCI breakers. i need a hot air system that
won't break the bank. Hakko hot air is probably too expensive.

Anyway, sorry for hijacking your thread.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 8:21 AM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
wrote:

Based on your recommendation I now have a demo unit of the Metcal
MX5210 here, with the MX-DS1 desoldering gun.
But there is a problem with it - it is incredibly loud, measured at
95dB(A).
I have the correct pressure and everything installed per the
instructions, but surely this can't be right.
The venturi exhausts directly into the handle, which is completely
empty, no silcencer of any kind, and the air comes out via a slot into
your palm which seems odd too.

Please let me know if your MX-DS1 is built the same, or if there
should be some kind of silencer in the handle which is missing on
mine. The sound level is completely unacceptable, not just for
co-workers but also for the operator, 95dB is mandatory hearing
protection level loud...

ST






Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

Renée
 

I have had the GFCI outlets fail in my kitchen where they trip rather than operate the toaster!
Renée

On 2018-09-06 10:19 AM, David Kuhn wrote:
" Yours must be faulty if it trips the RCD, perhaps the heater, I would
try again I've really been very satisfied with the cheap ones. "

Okay; thanks. I should take it apart and make sure it is wired okay. I
think it is. It does work, but once it's been running for a few minutes,
it kills the power.

The shop is wired with separate 20 amp circuits and 12 gauge wire. 20
years ago, I went a little cheap, and rather than GFCI breakers, I ran the
20 amp lines out of the breaker box and then through a 20 AMP GFCI outlet
and then to the shop. Nothing else is tripping it except that hot air
station. Either it is drawing too much current, or those outlets are
failing. Upstairs, in the last year, I've had to replace three of them
that would not trip at all anymore. I think they only have a limited
lifetime.

I'll also have to take the hot air station apart and check that its mains
is wired correctly, but that wouldn't explain why it's fine for a few
minutes and the the GFCI outlet trips. i would lean more towards the
outlet itself.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 12:23 PM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
wrote:

David,

I've had those chinese (AOYUE 8hundredsomething) hot air stations for
years.
Both at home, and every bench at work has one.

I don't use them that often, maybe once a week, but they have given
absolutely no trouble.
Only a couple of the segments on the temperature display have stopped
working.

Yours must be faulty if it trips the RCD, perhaps the heater, I would
try again I've really been very satisfied with the cheap ones.

ST


On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 6:04 PM David Kuhn <Daveyk021@...> wrote:
Wow, that's about a $950 setup as far as I can see. It looks great
though.
I've always used a HAKKO 808 for thru-hole de-soldering and wick. The
Hakko 808 isn't real cheap either and it's supplied (tips, filters,
replacement elements, etc.) can add up. I use it when really necessary.
For easy stuff, I use the old fashion hand pump and wick. When I am
working on more delicate boards, that still have thru-hole, then I use
the
Hakko.

I see Hakko has a cheaper FR300-xxx for about $270.00. It looks like it
uses the same tips.

I guess I am a Hakko fanboy (lol). I love their irons and use a 928
setup
daily, with a chisel tip and a micro-tip.

For Hot Air, I tried a Chinese 862D+ and it is pure garbage. It make hot
air but blows the ground faults all the time (My shop is in the basement,
so all lines are on 20 amps GFCI breakers. i need a hot air system that
won't break the bank. Hakko hot air is probably too expensive.

Anyway, sorry for hijacking your thread.

Dave

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018 at 8:21 AM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
wrote:
Based on your recommendation I now have a demo unit of the Metcal
MX5210 here, with the MX-DS1 desoldering gun.
But there is a problem with it - it is incredibly loud, measured at
95dB(A).
I have the correct pressure and everything installed per the
instructions, but surely this can't be right.
The venturi exhausts directly into the handle, which is completely
empty, no silcencer of any kind, and the air comes out via a slot into
your palm which seems odd too.

Please let me know if your MX-DS1 is built the same, or if there
should be some kind of silencer in the handle which is missing on
mine. The sound level is completely unacceptable, not just for
co-workers but also for the operator, 95dB is mandatory hearing
protection level loud...

ST