Date   
Re: 2465 Fan Collet Thingy

Chuck Harris
 

Hi Tom,

Ahh! My fervent wish is to be able to 3D print brass, aluminum,
or steel... But alas, that won't be for a while.

What I see that says it is 3D printed brass, or aluminum, is in
actuality a slurry of brass flakes, or aluminum flakes, and some
organic (plastic) meltable binder. The brass or aluminum comes
to the surface in a way that makes it appear to be brass or aluminum,
but the strength is all plastic.

I read an article of a M1911A2 being entirely printed in steel, but
I never heard how they did that, only that they would happily sell
you one of their printed guns for $30K.... To help fund research,
of course.

I suppose something like a mig welder controlled by a 3D mechanism
would do something... but it would be brutally inefficient.

-Chuck Harris

Tom Gardner wrote:

I've no doubt you are correct.

When I stated "parts could be manufactured in brass or aluminium", I was thinking of
3D printing them. It would have helped if I had been more precise.

Sorry for the confusion.



On 10/11/19 13:20, Chuck Harris wrote:
I had several collets made from the Tom Jobe, etal prints that
are in the file section of this group, and they were made from
a single piece of brass rod... threaded section and all. They
worked perfectly.

Re: 7854 Error Codes

Fred S.
 

Hi Clark,

thank you so much for your help! I must have been blind, lol

--
Best regards,

Fred S.

Re: 2465 Fan Collet Thingy

Tom Gardner
 

I've no doubt you are correct.

When I stated "parts could be manufactured in brass or aluminium", I was thinking of 3D printing them. It would have helped if I had been more precise.

Sorry for the confusion.

On 10/11/19 13:20, Chuck Harris wrote:
I had several collets made from the Tom Jobe, etal prints that
are in the file section of this group, and they were made from
a single piece of brass rod... threaded section and all. They
worked perfectly.

The group that developed that print, machined several out of
aluminum and they worked fine too.

They used an ordinary thread cutting die to cut the threads on
the threaded section. I suspect that they flipped the die for
the last pass to make the threads cut up to the edge... but there
is no need for them to be cut all that close to the collet body.

-Chuck Harris

Tom Gardner wrote:
I made my own model from the dimensioned prints, and had some made from SLA. I used a
file to make it fit, and have experimented to see how the SLA took the forcibly
inserted screw thread. The results were sufficiently encouraging that I've sent a
modified variant off for manufacture.

A standard home PLA printer definitely won't work. I tried it to assess the relative
quality of a nearby 3D printer, and the results were what I expected: dimensionally
inadequate, and it easily fractures along the joints between layers.

I don't know about the SLA's long-term stability. I do have SLA with a 2mm pitch
thread from 3 years ago that is fine

I don't know about the SLA's long-term stability under heat. I hope it won't get too
hot.

The parts could be manufactured in brass or aluminium, but I don't know whether the
screw thread would be of adequate quality. If not then manual tapping would be
required. They would be more than an order of magnitude more expensive, but still
tolerable. Hence I prefer experimenting with SLA.



On 10/11/19 00:41, Tony Fleming wrote:
Where are the 3D files to print my own replacement?
Thank you very much.
Tony


On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 6:39 PM Chuck Harris <cfharris@...> wrote:

More usually, the problem is someone turning the
slotted screw, thinking it loosens the collet.

Turning the screw will break the collet every time.
Tightening the nut is less likely to do that, as that
is the intended way to apply force to the collet.

It is the torque that causes problems.

There are dimensioned prints for the collet in the files
section of this group. A search on collet should find them.

If you can't find them, contact me, and I will send them
to you.

-Chuck Harris

DaveH52 wrote:
Are there any of the fan to motor collet thingies available anywhere?
When I removed the back panel, the fan fell out. I think someone
tightened it up too much and broke it on the scope I'm rejuvinating.

Re: 2465 Fan Collet Thingy

Chuck Harris
 

I had several collets made from the Tom Jobe, etal prints that
are in the file section of this group, and they were made from
a single piece of brass rod... threaded section and all. They
worked perfectly.

The group that developed that print, machined several out of
aluminum and they worked fine too.

They used an ordinary thread cutting die to cut the threads on
the threaded section. I suspect that they flipped the die for
the last pass to make the threads cut up to the edge... but there
is no need for them to be cut all that close to the collet body.

-Chuck Harris

Tom Gardner wrote:

I made my own model from the dimensioned prints, and had some made from SLA. I used a
file to make it fit, and have experimented to see how the SLA took the forcibly
inserted screw thread. The results were sufficiently encouraging that I've sent a
modified variant off for manufacture.

A standard home PLA printer definitely won't work. I tried it to assess the relative
quality of a nearby 3D printer, and the results were what I expected: dimensionally
inadequate, and it easily fractures along the joints between layers.

I don't know about the SLA's long-term stability. I do have SLA with a 2mm pitch
thread from 3 years ago that is fine

I don't know about the SLA's long-term stability under heat. I hope it won't get too
hot.

The parts could be manufactured in brass or aluminium, but I don't know whether the
screw thread would be of adequate quality. If not then manual tapping would be
required. They would be more than an order of magnitude more expensive, but still
tolerable. Hence I prefer experimenting with SLA.



On 10/11/19 00:41, Tony Fleming wrote:
Where are the 3D files to print my own replacement?
Thank you very much.
Tony


On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 6:39 PM Chuck Harris <cfharris@...> wrote:

More usually, the problem is someone turning the
slotted screw, thinking it loosens the collet.

Turning the screw will break the collet every time.
Tightening the nut is less likely to do that, as that
is the intended way to apply force to the collet.

It is the torque that causes problems.

There are dimensioned prints for the collet in the files
section of this group. A search on collet should find them.

If you can't find them, contact me, and I will send them
to you.

-Chuck Harris

DaveH52 wrote:
Are there any of the fan to motor collet thingies available anywhere?
When I removed the back panel, the fan fell out. I think someone
tightened it up too much and broke it on the scope I'm rejuvinating.


Re: 2465 Fan Collet Thingy

Mark Wendt
 

Aluminum.

Mark

On 11/10/19 05:47, Tom Gardner wrote:
Sorry, I know electronics, not materials.

Is that plastic or metal?


On 10/11/19 10:14, EricJ via Groups.Io wrote:
6061 most likely.

--Eric

Re: 2445 CH 3 and CH 4 vertical setting - volts/ div where ?

GerryR
 

You only have two choices, 0.5 V per division and 0.1 V per division by the two small button / switches beside the position controls. Of course, with a 10X probe, you can multiply that. Besides good trigger channels, they are good logic channels.
GerryR
KK4GER

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Gardner" <tggzzz@...>
To: <TekScopes@groups.io>
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2019 4:08 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2445 CH 3 and CH 4 vertical setting - volts/ div where ?


On 10/11/19 02:36, vaclav_sal via Groups.Io wrote:
Just adjured 2445 scope and trying to get familiar with the controls.
Not having much luck asking Mrs Google or reading text only ( no links / reference ) manuals.
So - any owner of 2445 can tell me where / how to select vertical "Volts/Div" setting for CH 3 and CH 4?
I can read the calibrator on CH3 OK , just cannot figure out how to set the vertical setting for it.
Thanks
Most Good Things are available on the w140 TekWiki, in this case
http://w140.com/tekwiki/images/2/2b/070-6167-00.pdf
Figure 3.3

I regard them as mainly useful for "digital signals" (i.e. a very crude MSO :) ) or as external triggers.

Re: 2465 Fan Collet Thingy

Tom Gardner
 

Sorry, I know electronics, not materials.

Is that plastic or metal?

On 10/11/19 10:14, EricJ via Groups.Io wrote:
6061 most likely.

--Eric

On Nov 10, 2019 3:01 AM, Tom Gardner <tggzzz@...> wrote:



On 10/11/19 05:41, EricJ via Groups.Io wrote:
I am still getting my new machines set up, but I can probably run off a
few soon.

What material will that be?

Re: 2465 Fan Collet Thingy

EricJ
 

6061 most likely.

--Eric

On Nov 10, 2019 3:01 AM, Tom Gardner <tggzzz@...> wrote:




On 10/11/19 05:41, EricJ via Groups.Io wrote:
I am still getting my new machines set up, but I can probably run off a
few soon.

What material will that be?





Re: 2445 CH 3 and CH 4 vertical setting - volts/ div where ?

Tom Gardner
 

On 10/11/19 02:36, vaclav_sal via Groups.Io wrote:
Just adjured 2445 scope and trying to get familiar with the controls.
Not having much luck asking Mrs Google or reading text only ( no links / reference ) manuals.
So - any owner of 2445 can tell me where / how to select vertical "Volts/Div" setting for CH 3 and CH 4?
I can read the calibrator on CH3 OK , just cannot figure out how to set the vertical setting for it.
Thanks
Most Good Things are available on the w140 TekWiki, in this case
http://w140.com/tekwiki/images/2/2b/070-6167-00.pdf
Figure 3.3

I regard them as mainly useful for "digital signals" (i.e. a very crude MSO :) ) or as external triggers.

Re: 2465 Fan Collet Thingy

Tom Gardner
 

On 10/11/19 05:41, EricJ via Groups.Io wrote:
I am still getting my new machines set up, but I can probably run off a few soon.
What material will that be?

Re: 2465 Fan Collet Thingy

Tom Gardner
 

I made my own model from the dimensioned prints, and had some made from SLA. I used a file to make it fit, and have experimented to see how the SLA took the forcibly inserted screw thread. The results were sufficiently encouraging that I've sent a modified variant off for manufacture.

A standard home PLA printer definitely won't work. I tried it to assess the relative quality of a nearby 3D printer, and the results were what I expected: dimensionally inadequate, and it easily fractures along the joints between layers.

I don't know about the SLA's long-term stability. I do have SLA with a 2mm pitch thread from 3 years ago that is fine

I don't know about the SLA's long-term stability under heat. I hope it won't get too hot.

The parts could be manufactured in brass or aluminium, but I don't know whether the screw thread would be of adequate quality. If not then manual tapping would be required. They would be more than an order of magnitude more expensive, but still tolerable. Hence I prefer experimenting with SLA.

On 10/11/19 00:41, Tony Fleming wrote:
Where are the 3D files to print my own replacement?
Thank you very much.
Tony


On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 6:39 PM Chuck Harris <cfharris@...> wrote:

More usually, the problem is someone turning the
slotted screw, thinking it loosens the collet.

Turning the screw will break the collet every time.
Tightening the nut is less likely to do that, as that
is the intended way to apply force to the collet.

It is the torque that causes problems.

There are dimensioned prints for the collet in the files
section of this group. A search on collet should find them.

If you can't find them, contact me, and I will send them
to you.

-Chuck Harris

DaveH52 wrote:
Are there any of the fan to motor collet thingies available anywhere?
When I removed the back panel, the fan fell out. I think someone
tightened it up too much and broke it on the scope I'm rejuvinating.

2754p memory problems

jeb_brygider
 

I have two 2754 spectrum analyzers, one partially working, the other basically a parts mule. When starting the good one, it tells me it has memory faults and when stepping past it shows memory bad or missing. I have researched and am concerned I might do serious damage by swapping the memory board from the parts unit.

This is my first venture into spec analyzers, although I have been an instrumentation tech for almost all of my 74 years, and am what I consider to be an ancient measurement equipment archeologist with several hundred instrument collection ( I have lost count, could be over1000). I've also been a ham since 1959 W2JEB.

My interests are mostly repairing and restoring equipment as opposed to purchasing new.

I live in western Washington NW of Seattle in the Port Townsend area. I would appreciate any and all suggestions and assistance as I'd truly love to have this unit operational.

Thanks in advance, Jeb Brygider

Re: 2465 Fan Collet Thingy

EricJ
 

I am still getting my new machines set up, but I can probably run off a few soon.

--Eric

On Nov 9, 2019 11:15 PM, Chuck Harris <cfharris@...> wrote:




As I said, there are dimensioned prints... prints are
a 2D thing.  You will have to use your own cad expertise
to convert them into a 3D mesh for printing.

I am not sure that an all plastic printed solution will
work... tektronix didn't think so, and made a much more
expensive metal/plastic hybrid.

-Chuck Harris

Tony Fleming wrote:
Where are the 3D files to print my own replacement?
Thank you very much.
Tony


On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 6:39 PM Chuck Harris <cfharris@...> wrote:

More usually, the problem is someone turning the
slotted screw, thinking it loosens the collet.

Turning the screw will break the collet every time.
Tightening the nut is less likely to do that, as that
is the intended way to apply force to the collet.

It is the torque that causes problems.

There are dimensioned prints for the collet in the files
section of this group.  A search on collet should find them.

If you can't find them, contact me, and I will send them
to you.

-Chuck Harris

DaveH52 wrote:
Are there any of the fan to motor collet thingies available anywhere?
When I removed the back panel, the fan fell out.  I think someone
tightened it up too much and broke it on the scope I'm rejuvinating.











Re: 2445 CH 3 and CH 4 vertical setting - volts/ div where ?

Chuck Harris
 

I prefer to think of channels 3 and 4 as external trigger inputs
with full waveform display... because that is what they really are.

-Chuck Harris

TomC wrote:

The channel 3 and 4 volts/div for the 2445 can be anything you want as long as you
want 0.5 volts/div or 0.1 volts/div. It is selected by a pair of push buttons, one
for each channel, between the channel 3 and 4 vertical position controls.

Tom

On 11/9/2019 6:36 PM, vaclav_sal via Groups.Io wrote:
Just adjured 2445 scope and trying to get familiar with the controls.
Not having much luck asking Mrs Google or reading text only ( no links /
reference ) manuals.
So - any owner of 2445 can tell me where / how to select vertical "Volts/Div"
setting for CH 3 and CH 4?
I can read the calibrator on CH3 OK , just cannot figure out how to set the
vertical setting for it.
Thanks





Re: 2465 Fan Collet Thingy

Chuck Harris
 

As I said, there are dimensioned prints... prints are
a 2D thing. You will have to use your own cad expertise
to convert them into a 3D mesh for printing.

I am not sure that an all plastic printed solution will
work... tektronix didn't think so, and made a much more
expensive metal/plastic hybrid.

-Chuck Harris

Tony Fleming wrote:

Where are the 3D files to print my own replacement?
Thank you very much.
Tony


On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 6:39 PM Chuck Harris <cfharris@...> wrote:

More usually, the problem is someone turning the
slotted screw, thinking it loosens the collet.

Turning the screw will break the collet every time.
Tightening the nut is less likely to do that, as that
is the intended way to apply force to the collet.

It is the torque that causes problems.

There are dimensioned prints for the collet in the files
section of this group. A search on collet should find them.

If you can't find them, contact me, and I will send them
to you.

-Chuck Harris

DaveH52 wrote:
Are there any of the fan to motor collet thingies available anywhere?
When I removed the back panel, the fan fell out. I think someone
tightened it up too much and broke it on the scope I'm rejuvinating.







Re: 2445 CH 3 and CH 4 vertical setting - volts/ div where ?

TomC
 

The channel 3 and 4 volts/div for the 2445 can be anything you want as long as you want 0.5 volts/div or 0.1 volts/div. It is selected by a pair of push buttons, one for each channel, between the channel 3 and 4 vertical position controls.

Tom

On 11/9/2019 6:36 PM, vaclav_sal via Groups.Io wrote:
Just adjured 2445 scope and trying to get familiar with the controls.
Not having much luck asking Mrs Google or reading text only ( no links / reference ) manuals.
So - any owner of 2445 can tell me where / how to select vertical "Volts/Div" setting for CH 3 and CH 4?
I can read the calibrator on CH3 OK , just cannot figure out how to set the vertical setting for it.
Thanks

anyone have 310 or 360 parts machine?

Phil Cirocco
 

I am looking for a graticule lens for my Tektronix 360 indicator module. This is the old scope module for the 160 series with the round CRT.The 310 scope used the same part. Tektronix part #331-0027-00. I will gladly pay for it and shipping. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Phil Cirocco

2445 CH 3 and CH 4 vertical setting - volts/ div where ?

vaclav_sal
 

Just adjured 2445 scope and trying to get familiar with the controls.
Not having much luck asking Mrs Google or reading text only ( no links / reference ) manuals.
So - any owner of 2445 can tell me where / how to select vertical "Volts/Div" setting for CH 3 and CH 4?
I can read the calibrator on CH3 OK , just cannot figure out how to set the vertical setting for it.
Thanks

TEK 2430A

frank carcia
 

Hi All,I have a clean 2430A that pulls faults in power on bit. I don't think the battery has ever been changes.One fault that comes up is attenuator and another is trigger related. I wonder if this could be battery related.I have not tried to clean any board contacts or troubleshoot. I just downloaded the service manual. Any advice welcome to avoid reinventing the wheel.Thanks,Frank WA1GFZ

Re: 2465 Fan Collet Thingy

n4buq
 

That happened to me. It broke cleanly and rather squarely at the end/depth of the brass insert.

I drilled and tapped the collet about 3/16" deep, used a very short length of #4-40 threaded rod (really just a cut off #4-40 screw), CA-glued the threaded rod into the plastic and then did the same into the brass end (with CA on the mating surfaces.

I had to shorten the #4-40 on the threaded "puller" but it all went back together and appears it will hold (it doesn't take much "pull" to close the collet sufficiently.

Just one way that might work to fix a broken collet.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

----- Original Message -----
From: "DaveH52" <@ac2gl>
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Sent: Saturday, November 9, 2019 4:04:54 PM
Subject: [TekScopes] 2465 Fan Collet Thingy

Are there any of the fan to motor collet thingies available anywhere?
When I removed the back panel, the fan fell out. I think someone tightened
it up too much and broke it on the scope I'm rejuvinating.