Date   
Re: Microcap12

tek_547
 

Thanx Graig, good for the dark winter evenings.
René

Re: Asset tag glue removal without damaging finish?

 

Hi Randy,

NAPTHA can be bought in hardware stores and paint stores in quart or gallon cans is ideal for removing glue and sticky residue on any surface. It does not harm the surface or the paint at all. Also, it is inexpensive. I have used it for years. This summer I removed the labels and residue from every plugin I had. It never once harmed anything and it dissolves virtually all kinds of adhesive. The only adhesive it was ineffective on was a sort of epoxy that was used to glue down metal labels that were never supposed to be removed.

To remove epoxy use XYLENE. It is sold in hardware stores and paint stores. It comes in quart or gallon cans. Xylene is the main ingredient of Goof-Off. "Xylol", and "dimethylbenzene" are other names for Xylene. Use this chemical in a well ventilated area.

Apparently Goof-Off has recently been reformulated with ACETONE instead of XYLENE according to one web page I just looked at.
BEWARE: Both XYLENE and ACETONE damage most plastics, painted surfaces, and just about everything they come in touch with. So you should restrict their use to removing epoxy as long as you don't have any surfaces that could be harmed.

GOO GONE, a citrus scented chemical, is not as strong as NAPTHA when cleaning glue and sticky residue but it smells a lot better.

Recently I became aware of MISTER CLEAN MAGIC ERASER pads. They were originally introduced as ~1 inch thick pads but now they have thinner ones that can get into tiny places. They have a very odd texture and it is hard to imagine how this stuff could clean anything since it is so soft. Those are excellent for removing pencil and pen marks on Tek panels. I think they must have an extremely fine abrasive imbedded into them that does a good job on these markings without harming anything else. You can also use it to shine up the aluminum frame of your plugins.

90% pure (or better) ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL does a good job of dissolving the ink from permanent marker pens. A small percentage of the ink will get absorbed into the anodized aluminum front panels when it is applied and that will require more than just alcohol to get rid of. I follow the alcohol with a good rubbing using the Magic Eraser pads. That combination does a good job of getting rid of about 95% of the permanent marker ink.

Dennis Tillman W7PF

-----Original Message-----
From: Randy.AB9GO
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2019 8:11 AM

Good day,

I may have missed this in a previous post, but how do you remove the left over adhesive from the old style aluminum asset tag that use the solvent to affix the tag to the equipment? Is there a method that will preserve the finish underneath? Some of the brown paper is also still hanging on.

Thanks,
Randy AB9GO.



--
Dennis Tillman W7PF
TekScopes Moderator

2465 LVPS loading

DaveH52
 

Where were you guys 50 years ago when I was reviving a Tek 510, and a 511A? (they've long since been replaced with a 545 and now a 465M)

So I won a rather crusty 2465 'scope at an auction, but when I plugged it in it worked! Cursors, measurements it all worked. So I figured I'd keep it and opened it up to clean out the dust, and clean up the front panel, and repair the fan that had fallen off (what a screwy fan arrangement). Before I buttoned it up, I turned it on to make sure I hadn't messed anything up. It was working just fine, even as one of the 0.068uF EMI suppression capacitors on the line side of the power supply let go of its magic smoke with a flame and a loud report. Fortunately, there was a 68 ohm resistor that protected the line fuse. So I removed the LVPS and replaced the burnt parts, and the other 0.068uF cap that was cracked, and managed put it back in, even though everything else was in the way. When I turned it on it was dead. I've only got about half of the supply outputs. The +15V, +10REF, +5V, and -5V seem to be essentially absent, +5VD is 4.5v. So I'm currently noodling my way through the schematics, looking for something that might be common to all the errant outputs. Dave - AC2GL

So my first question is: Do you know if this power supply can be operated without loads on the outputs or will it damage itself without some minimum current draw? The second is, where can I find that collet thing for the fan? And third, could you wish me luck?

Re: Tektronix 222 mini scope repair, looking for schematics

Henry Hopkinson
 

If the 222 TEK is the DSO 222 you can download the users manual from this
website.
bama.edebris.com/manual.
Henry

On Sun, Oct 20, 2019 at 5:43 PM ArtekManuals <manuals@...>
wrote:

Leo

We have the full service manual with schematics for the 222A which I am
told ( though I have no personal experience in using it to service a 222)
There are only minor differences between the 222 and the 222A

Contact me off list for details
Dave
manuals@...

On 10/20/2019 5:26 PM, johncharlesgord via Groups.Io wrote:
Leo,

Qservice has a pdf of the 224 manual, which includes schematics. The
224 and 222 are quite similar.

--John Gord

On Sun, Oct 20, 2019 at 01:55 PM, satbeginner wrote:

Hi all,

A friend gave me 222, because it was a Tek and he knew "I have a thing"
for
Tektronix.
It's almost mint!, But... The readout is clearly visible, but there is
no
trace?
I tried inputting a signal, but I never got the triggered light to come
on,
nor did I got something visible but the readout.

It will be another 5 days before I get home, but meanwhile I want to
think
about the problem.
I looked for a manual including the schematics, but found nothing.

After the recent submerge of the microfiche set, could they be in there?
Is there anything available?

Un saludo,

Leo
--
Dave
Manuals@...
www.ArtekManuals.com


--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus




Re: Asset tag glue removal without damaging finish?

Tom Green
 

Yes, Ronsonol lighter fluid, which is just Naptha. Won't harm the finish.
You can buy a can of naptha at the hardware store. Or Ronsonol at the
supermarket (more expensive)

Acetone will craze plastic and remove paint. BEWARE!

Tom

On Mon, Oct 21, 2019 at 11:34 AM Craig Sawyers <
c.sawyers@...> wrote:

Lighter fluid. A lot less aggressive than acetone, which is generally very
unfriendly to plastics
(which is why it is the key ingredient in nail varnish remover)

Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@groups.io [mailto:TekScopes@groups.io] On Behalf Of
John Griessen
Sent: 21 October 2019 16:21
To: TekScopes@groups.io
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Asset tag glue removal without damaging finish?

On 10/21/19 10:11 AM, Randy.AB9GO wrote:
how do you remove the left
over adhesive from the old style aluminum asset tag that use the
solvent to affix the tag to the equipment?
Acetone. Test on finish paint first.

If paint is sensitive, try peeling the aluminum back, rolling it up.
Then carefully use razor
blade to
remove most of the adhesive, then brief wipes with acetone, IPA,
goo-gone, citrus cleaner.

A final polish with gel gloss (or autmotive polishing compound) can be
good.





Tektronix 475 Oscilloscope - Help With Repair

okkpik72@...
 

I recently acquired a Tektronix 475 oscilloscope.

The scope powers up but does not get a spot or trace.

I checked all the voltages at the test points with the scope powered ON . The readings were as follows:

+5 - 4.99
-8 - 7.99
+15 - 15.0
-15 - 14.99
+50 - 49.99
+110 - 111.5

Everything appears to be within tolerance.

What do I check for next? I have repaired many monitors and PCB's but this is my first attempt at scope rebuild.

As an aside - with the unit OFF the +5 and -8 test points have continuity to ground (shorted).

Any help would be greatly appreciated. :)

Re: Asset tag glue removal without damaging finish?

ken chalfant
 

Greetings,

I have had success with WD-40 and patience.

Almost every time I had got impatience and tried to use a razor blade to speed up the process I end up scratching the surface.

Alcohol works good to remove the remain WD-40 residue. Acetone has a nasty habit of harming plastics and many kinds of finished and painted surfaces.

My two cents FWIW.

Regards,

Ken

On 21Oct, 2019, at 8:42 PM, Gary Robert Bosworth <@grbosworth<mailto:@grbosworth>> wrote:

I have always used Ronsonol lighter fluid. It is harmless on most plastics
and paints.

Gary

On Mon, Oct 21, 2019, 19:37 Randy.AB9GO <@AB9GO<mailto:@AB9GO>> wrote:

Thanks for all the good ideas. I would have left the labels alone but
someone removed them before I acquired the calibrator. 😡. It is a shame
as the unit is like new otherwise and works great.

Randy AB9GO.

This message sent to you from my mobile device via speech-to-text
technology.

Re: Asset tag glue removal without damaging finish?

Gary Robert Bosworth
 

I have always used Ronsonol lighter fluid. It is harmless on most plastics
and paints.

Gary

On Mon, Oct 21, 2019, 19:37 Randy.AB9GO <@AB9GO> wrote:

Thanks for all the good ideas. I would have left the labels alone but
someone removed them before I acquired the calibrator. 😡. It is a shame
as the unit is like new otherwise and works great.

Randy AB9GO.

This message sent to you from my mobile device via speech-to-text
technology.



Re: Asset tag glue removal without damaging finish?

Randy.AB9GO
 

Thanks for all the good ideas. I would have left the labels alone but
someone removed them before I acquired the calibrator. 😡. It is a shame
as the unit is like new otherwise and works great.

Randy AB9GO.

This message sent to you from my mobile device via speech-to-text
technology.

Late 2465b A5 SMD cap replacements

Paul Amaranth
 

I'm acquiring parts to go through a 2465B and I seem to have
neglected picking up replacements for the smd caps on the A5
board.

Does anyone have sugestions for replacements? I noticed in one
pdf floating around they were replaced with solid tantalums. I'm
not quite sure about that. I surely do not want to use the junk
caps I have on hand for small project work.

thanks

--
Paul Amaranth, GCIH | Manchester MI, USA
Aurora Group of Michigan, LLC | Security, Systems & Software
paul@... | Unix & Windows

Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] Microcap12

Alexandre Souza
 

The creator of the program doesn't HAVE to give away his hard work.
IP is expensive. He can sell the source code for another company.
He has no why to say why or why not he does something with HIS IP
Be thankful for the fish, thats all that was given to you.

---8<---Corte aqui---8<---
http://www.tabajara-labs.blogspot.com
http://www.tabalabs.com.br
---8<---Corte aqui---8<---


Em seg, 21 de out de 2019 às 19:24, Bryce Schroeder <
bryce.schroeder@...> escreveu:

I'd be aware of a bystander effect there, though. If he's getting a
lot of such email and is bothered by it, he could put a notice
notifying people of his decision (and maybe his reasons for it) on the
page. Up to him, of course, but I wouldn't worry about bothering him
based on what other people might or might not be doing, myself.

On Mon, 21 Oct 2019 at 18:05, David DiGiacomo <daviddigiacomo@...>
wrote:

Since this happened back in July, the author has no doubt already been
contacted by roughly a zillion people asking about the source code, and
probably doesn't need any more email about it...



Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] Microcap12

Bryce Schroeder
 

I'd be aware of a bystander effect there, though. If he's getting a
lot of such email and is bothered by it, he could put a notice
notifying people of his decision (and maybe his reasons for it) on the
page. Up to him, of course, but I wouldn't worry about bothering him
based on what other people might or might not be doing, myself.

On Mon, 21 Oct 2019 at 18:05, David DiGiacomo <daviddigiacomo@...> wrote:

Since this happened back in July, the author has no doubt already been contacted by roughly a zillion people asking about the source code, and probably doesn't need any more email about it...

Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] Microcap12

David DiGiacomo
 

Since this happened back in July, the author has no doubt already been
contacted by roughly a zillion people asking about the source code, and
probably doesn't need any more email about it...

$49 547 for sale in CA

Jamie Ostrowski
 

Re: 260-2500-00 Encoder

Sergey Kubushyn
 

On Mon, 21 Oct 2019, Jacques DULONGPONT wrote:

Nope, no attachments found. They do not make it into group email. Would you
please re-send it to my email directly (it is my actual email in my
messages) so it would go through?

I had attached in my message a memo describing a solution to replace the
Tek encoder with another source of encoder. Could you read it?

Jacques

Le lun. 21 oct. 2019 à 16:28, Sergey Kubushyn <ksi@...> a écrit :

On Mon, 21 Oct 2019, Jacques DULONGPONT wrote:

What is "this" solution?

Hello

This solution may be of help to your problem.

Jacques

Le sam. 19 oct. 2019 à 06:43, Sergey Kubushyn <ksi@...> a écrit :

There was some announcement a year or so ago that somebody has several
of
those in stock. Don't know who it was and if there are still some
available
bue I need one for my recently acquired CG5011 that arrived with a
broken
inner shaft, Variable control.

If somebody has this one I will be happy to pay a reasonable price and
shipping from anywhere on on Earth. A front panel with that encoder
intact
from an otherwise damaged CG5010/5011 would also do as well as
non-working
CG5010/5011 at a reasonable price.
---
******************************************************************
* KSI@home KOI8 Net < > The impossible we do immediately. *
* Las Vegas NV, USA < > Miracles require 24-hour notice. *
******************************************************************

Re: 260-2500-00 Encoder

Jacques DULONGPONT
 

I had attached in my message a memo describing a solution to replace the
Tek encoder with another source of encoder. Could you read it?

Jacques

Le lun. 21 oct. 2019 à 16:28, Sergey Kubushyn <ksi@...> a écrit :

On Mon, 21 Oct 2019, Jacques DULONGPONT wrote:

What is "this" solution?

Hello

This solution may be of help to your problem.

Jacques

Le sam. 19 oct. 2019 à 06:43, Sergey Kubushyn <ksi@...> a écrit :

There was some announcement a year or so ago that somebody has several
of
those in stock. Don't know who it was and if there are still some
available
bue I need one for my recently acquired CG5011 that arrived with a
broken
inner shaft, Variable control.

If somebody has this one I will be happy to pay a reasonable price and
shipping from anywhere on on Earth. A front panel with that encoder
intact
from an otherwise damaged CG5010/5011 would also do as well as
non-working
CG5010/5011 at a reasonable price.
---
******************************************************************
* KSI@home KOI8 Net < > The impossible we do immediately. *
* Las Vegas NV, USA < > Miracles require 24-hour notice. *
******************************************************************



Re: TDS544A major surgery - CRT issues

Dan Fish
 

Ed,

I have a TDS584 that I purchased with the wrinkles in the gel between the CRT and shutter. I removed the gel, but the CRT was still dim and had blobs of pink and blue colors in the shutter. So I removed the CRT and shutter driver assemblies and put in an LCD display so that I can use the scope. So now I have the CRT and shutter driver assemblies that are probably good. If you are interested in trying them in your 544 you can have it for the cost of reimbursing me for the shipping charge. I am in WA state. You can contact me at defish1@....

Dan

Re: Practicing "Safe RF" RF: DC block, RF Attenuator and/or limiter?

Greg Muir
 

RF connector savers…

For general purpose work I use the RFN-7654 N(F) to N(M) connector savers on my equipment. They are made by Pan Pacific and are not the most exacting adapter but work well at most lower frequencies. Pan Pacific states that they adhere to a MIL standard but that is only for the gold plated center contact. There are no parameters stated with respect to frequency, etc. They do look good examining them on a network analyzer though and are available in the range of $5 to $8 each if you shop around on the net.

There are more manufacturers of this product (Pasternack, Fairview Microwave, Coaxicom, etc.) and their items do have excellent high frequency ratings (up to 18 GHz) but you had better be prepared for sticker shock. BNC connector savers are also a good idea given the commonality and usage rate of this type of connector and their propensity to wear out more with the use of softer materials in their composition.

Obviously if you are doing any precision work in the GHz range it is best to remove the connector saver and connect directly to the instrument port. They are just another bump in the line impedance characteristics.

Greg

Re: Asset tag glue removal without damaging finish?

Greg Muir
 

As to removing this type of adhesive without damage to the surface it is adhered to - it basically does not happen.

As Chuck Harris has stated this type of adherence becomes an inherent part of the surface it is attached to. If you are lucky the seller has left the tag attached rather than removing it by some Draconian measure such as a pocket knife or other sharp instrument. The most frustrating thing is when these people place the tag in an area where it covers part of panel nomenclature or is stuck on at some odd angle so as to garner your constant attention when using the instrument.

Depending on anodized surfaces it is a gamble if the surface may be damaged or not. I have witnessed discoloration as well as problems with certain surfaces where the manufacturer has applied a plastic coat which comes off with any attempt at label removal.

Think of some labels as a badge of honor from where the item came. If it is of an interesting nature I simply leave it attached even if it isn't the bad hardened brown goo that you are speaking of. Many people ask me why I have a lot of equipment sporting USAF TDME labels or that one item with the NORAD Cheyenne Mountain moniker. Besides, it may help if some nefarious person decides to "lift" that certain piece of equipment and you manage to track it down again providing you have made a note of the label information.

Greg

Re: Tektronix 222 mini scope repair, looking for schematics

greenboxmaven
 

Will the power supply in the scope be damaged by the lower voltage? In an effort to maintain full output, a fixed wattage, with a lower supply voltage, the current in the transformer primary and switching transistors will rise.

Bruce, KA2IVY

On 10/21/19 11:21 AM, tekscopegroup@... wrote:
On Mon, Oct 21, 2019 at 02:52 AM, Miguel Work wrote:
The trick is modify charger to Supply 4,2 volt max for element, and modify
main power supply to work with voltages at lithium range, 3.2 to 4.2, 6.4 to
8.4, 9.6 to 12.6 and so on.
To maximize scope run time on the new batteries, the automatic cut-off voltage needs to be reset to a lower value than the factory setting for the original Lead-Acid battery, which is about ~7.2-7.5V. With Lithium batteries to cut-off at that level it is too early as there will still be usable power left in the cells without harming them. The scope cut-off point is determined by a simple two resistor voltage divider that feeds the CPU and comprised of two 100K SMD resistors. The cut-off happens when the CPU input pin sees 3.6V (after the divider). The desired new specific cut-off point depends on the type of Lithium battery chemistry that you choose, as nominal cell voltages vary a bit. But basically all that is needed is to adjust the top 100K resistor of the divider with a somewhat higher value to lower the cut-off point.