Date   

Re: 465 timebase switch fingers not soldered completely?

Szabolcs Szigeti
 

Hi,

I think this is supposed to be like that. I had one otherwise quite
expensive TM500 module (maybe an SG503?) that I got for nearly nothing,
because someone dropped it onto its face and besides bending the faceplate,
the drum for the range switches was pushed inwards and bent nearly all the
switch contacts.
Initially this seamed like a disaster, but then to my great surprise I
found out that they were in fact not bent, but simply rotated and I could
actually rotate the contacts back around the point they were fastened to
the PCB. So to me it looks like they are actually socketed in same way.
I did not dare to experiment more, like trying to pull them out, because I
was happy to move them back to the original position and the module lives
happily ever after. Of course I had to fox other damage, but the switches
were surprisingly easy to fix.

Szabolcs


<bbortnick@2bcool.ca> ezt írta (időpont: 2019. márc. 7., Cs, 18:49):

Hi all,
Now working on the cranky timebase rotary switch. After pulling out the
timing board (not hard; skip step 2.c - remove 3 wire cable - as it's
redundant with step 3 which removes the other end of the cable from the A
TRIG HOLDOFF pot.)
Found the inner knob was off by 2 notches, so could not turn into x-y
mode. Easy adjustment with the knob's grub screws.

However I see that a number of the fingers appear to not be soldered
properly to the top of the board (see linked photo).
https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/album?id=86374
Should I re-solder all of these?
Thanks for the help!




Re: 465 timebase switch fingers not soldered completely?

magnustoelle
 

Good Day,
I second Tom‘s advice. Resoldering of the contacts shall be done only if really necessary and with great caution. It took me several attempts and sweat when I had to do it on similar Tek units, 
If really needed, use a good solder flux, a perfectly fitting solder iron tip and do it quickly to avoid neighboring contacts- as these can get misaligned very easily. Remove all residue when done. 
Cheers,
Magnus

You do not want to attempt to re-solder those contacts as it will
disturb the alignment of the contacts.

Regards

On 3/7/2019 12:49 PM, bbortnick@2bcool.ca wrote:
Hi all,
Now working on the cranky timebase rotary switch. After pulling out the timing board (not hard; skip step 2.c - remove 3 wire cable - as it's redundant with step 3 which removes the other end of the cable from the A TRIG HOLDOFF pot.)
Found the inner knob was off by 2 notches, so could not turn into x-y mode. Easy adjustment with the knob's grub screws.

However I see that a number of the fingers appear to not be soldered properly to the top of the board (see linked photo).
https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/album?id=86374
Should I re-solder all of these?
Thanks for the help!




Re: 581a repair help.

Nenad Filipovic
 

Switches and contacts. If you have another vertical plugin, try it. The
biggest issue witch these old scopes is dirt and patina on electrical
contacts and switches, so:

- Give plenty of workout to all controls (rock every knob back and forth
many times) while observing the trace on a powered scope. Noisy contacts
will clearly reveal themselves.
- Check/clean the plug of the vertical plugin (both male and female part).
- Re-seat the tubes. Check if tube pins show signs of corrosion.

Visual inspection of the state of switches (corrosion, patina) could
indicate if the whole instrument suffered from humidity and requires
restoration of switches. This is recommended for such old instruments, but
you may get away without that if the instrument was carefully preserved in
dry environment.

Nice scope though. Wish I had a 581/585 to restore...

Best Regards,
Nenad Filipovic


On Fri, Mar 8, 2019 at 8:35 AM Rich Collins via Groups.Io <richanny=
yahoo.co.uk@groups.io> wrote:


My old 581a scope with 82 plug in hasn't been used for a year and when
switched on, there was no vertical response, just a horizontal trace. The
time base is working fine.The neon indicator is showing the trace is
up.I've never had to repair it in the 30 years I've owned it!I have the
service manuals. Any advice on what to check initially?
Rich


Re: Tektronix AM503S AC/DC Current Probe Amplifier system

Dave Casey
 

If you need it done urgently and well, you should see about finding a cal
lab that still supports it.

Calibration requires the appropriate quality of signal generators, some
special adapters, and the GPIB board from an AM5030. I have most of the
kit, but not enough to do it right.

It also appears to be a somewhat intensive process: take measurements, fill
out a worksheet, measure % error in several ranges, then update the
constants over GPIB. If there's Tek software out there to automate things,
I haven't seen it.

Dave Casey

On Fri, Mar 8, 2019 at 12:34 AM Mark Weimer <inxsof1@gmail.com> wrote:

Hello all,

I have a Tek AM 503B in a TM502 mainframe.

Tektronix AM503S AC/DC Current Probe Amplifier system. The battery on the
plugin went dead and it seems to have lost all of its default calibration
coefficients.

Does anyone here know of a way or of a someone who could do a reload on
this plug and calibrate it.

Regards
Mark




Re: More on TEK-Meter THM 565 Repair

mrlepipi
 

Hi Jim! how are you? Pips here from New Zealand, lucky coincidence my wife used to live in Minneapolis for a couple of years she did an Au pair exchange many moons ago, and she of course remembers it very fondly.

I found this THM565 at the bottom drawer of the old manager of the company we run now, and I am experiencing similar faults to what you describe, in my case I'm trying it with batteries, I can clearly hear a beep and a relay contacting when pushing the ON button but no image on the screen, I been told that that was the main problem that's why they left it in that drawer. I could really use it because its very handy and would like to fix it, I'm an old electronics technician and audio engineer, but could use some guidance on what to check and how? from the manual it says that the screen could fade but they only say to take out the battery pack and re instate it. so to me sounds similar to the problems you have experienced.

Thank you very much
Cheers!

Pips
Gisborne
New Zealand


581a repair help.

Rich Collins
 

My old 581a scope with 82 plug in hasn't been used for a year and when switched on, there was no vertical response, just a horizontal trace. The time base is working fine.The neon indicator is showing the trace is up.I've never had to repair it in the 30 years I've owned it!I have the service manuals. Any advice on what to check initially?
Rich


581a no vertical movement

Rich Collins
 

This scope has a 82 plugin.The up neon trace finder is lit, but trace is horizontal flat in the middle. Time base fine.Any ideas welcome.
Rich


Tektronix AM503S AC/DC Current Probe Amplifier system

Mark Weimer
 

Hello all,

I have a Tek AM 503B in a TM502 mainframe.

Tektronix AM503S AC/DC Current Probe Amplifier system. The battery on the
plugin went dead and it seems to have lost all of its default calibration
coefficients.

Does anyone here know of a way or of a someone who could do a reload on
this plug and calibrate it.

Regards
Mark


Re: 152-0310-00 replacement

SR77
 

I opened up the scope and the parts in question are small and completely gold in colour with two leads also gold in colour. I’m not sure if I got all the writing but I managed to see “0310GE” written on them. So, which ones do I have in my scope?

(I had tried to post this the other day but it doesn’t seem to have made through. I apologize if it eventually does!)


TEST MESAGE. "You have been removed from TekScopes@groups.io" WAY OFF TOPIC

 

TekScopes is all about classic Tektronix test equipment, its use, repair, and collecting.

IT IS NOT ABOUT EMAIL OR PERSONAL COMPUTERS.
If you have a valid reason for discussing anything that is not Tektronix related please find a venue where it will be appropriate or take it off line.

Please refrain from sending test messages to TekScopes.

Thank you,
Dennis Tillman W7PF




--
Dennis Tillman W7PF
TekScopes Moderator


Re: TEST MESAGE. "Fw: You have been removed from TekScopes@groups.io"

Brendan
 

Everyone has their own idea of safety. IMO sending emails with personal information using Gmail owned by the biggest snoops in the world using Windows with known backdoors on routers with know flaws is 100% more dangerous than using Yahoo as a place to read Tek mailing list posts. I highly doubt anyone here is using Yahoo for top secret information... Unless Hillary Clinton belongs to this group.

Brendan

On Thu, Mar 7, 2019 at 07:39 PM, <tekscopegroup@miwww.com> wrote:


Anybody at this point still using yahoo mail must not really care much for
security and safety. Yahoo mail, really, after all the HUGE and highly
publicized repeated security leaks they had not too long ago? Your account is
probably compromised already, so please do yourself a favor and get something
else, -anything- will be better and safer. Gmail comes to mind. And any other
accounts also tied to your Yahoo mail in any way (2FA, fallback, etc) will
also be at risk if not already silently compromised and crooks just waiting to
act for anything worthwhile to swim by. Really, you need to update now-now.


Re: TEST MESAGE. "Fw: You have been removed from TekScopes@groups.io"

tekscopegroup@...
 

Anybody at this point still using yahoo mail must not really care much for security and safety. Yahoo mail, really, after all the HUGE and highly publicized repeated security leaks they had not too long ago? Your account is probably compromised already, so please do yourself a favor and get something else, -anything- will be better and safer. Gmail comes to mind. And any other accounts also tied to your Yahoo mail in any way (2FA, fallback, etc) will also be at risk if not already silently compromised and crooks just waiting to act for anything worthwhile to swim by. Really, you need to update now-now.


Re: 91% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol to clean potentiometers?

nonIonizing EMF
 

On Thu, Mar 7, 2019 at 02:10 PM, nonIonizing EMF wrote:


I've just been using a ~50ml glass bottle with a spray top so far.
Just double checked... and yes... the green is the DeOxit Fader one that used to be the Cailube MCL if I understand correctly.

I also forgot I have a large diameter needle and syringe I used at first. I think this sprays better (more focused and powerful) though was kind of a pain to do since you have to depress fast now that I recall.


Re: 91% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol to clean potentiometers?

Roy Thistle
 

On Wed, Mar 6, 2019 at 06:45 PM, Gary Robert Bosworth wrote:


type of fire extinguisher
For IPA fires, some MDSS are saying type A or B or C, extinguishers are good. I keep a carbon dioxide (Type B,C... compressed gas) extinguisher, which is also good for electrical fires, and doesn't make as much of a mess.
The temperature that the alcohol/water solution has to be, to ignite, increases with a decrease in alcohol concentration. 70% IPA needs to be at a higher temperature than 90% IPA to ignite. As well, for the same concentration and temperature, methanol, is more flammable than ethanol, is more flammable than IPA (isopropanol). In all cases, it's the alcohol vapor that burns, not the liquid part. The alcohol cannot burn without a source of oxygen.
So water on an alcohol fire (as posted by others) cools the liquid, dilutes the liquid, and smothers it. Carbon dioxide gas cools and smothers.


Re: 91% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol to clean potentiometers?

Roy Thistle
 

On Wed, Mar 6, 2019 at 03:15 PM, Bill Carns wrote:


IT IS DEFINITELY
not a lubricant
I guess, it depends on what one means/defines as a lubricant. (WD-40 Company, claims/calls it a lubricant.) It does contain (as per the MSDS) some fine oils.
About the "steel plates"... fascinating!
I'll state my guess as to what happened... but first... WD-40 doesn't attract water. (I can elaborate on that if anyone wants.)
About the steel... my guess is he cleaned the mill oil off of the steel with the WD-40... because it will do that... and it leaves only a thin coating of fine oil. That thin coat (for reasons of the way WD-40 works) would "boil" away, in the sun/heat, quickly, and especially over time... exposing unprotected steel... which would rapidly rust.


Re: 465 timebase switch fingers not soldered completely?

 

You do not want to attempt to re-solder those contacts as it will disturb the alignment of the contacts.

Regards

On 3/7/2019 12:49 PM, bbortnick@2bcool.ca wrote:
Hi all,
Now working on the cranky timebase rotary switch. After pulling out the timing board (not hard; skip step 2.c - remove 3 wire cable - as it's redundant with step 3 which removes the other end of the cable from the A TRIG HOLDOFF pot.)
Found the inner knob was off by 2 notches, so could not turn into x-y mode. Easy adjustment with the knob's grub screws.

However I see that a number of the fingers appear to not be soldered properly to the top of the board (see linked photo).
https://groups.io/g/TekScopes/album?id=86374
Should I re-solder all of these?
Thanks for the help!



Re: 465 timebase switch fingers not soldered completely?

Jim Olson <v_12eng@...>
 

I have a 475 trigger board that's removed and also has the switch cam removed so all the finger's open I can see one post looks like in your picture it is soldered well on the bottom there is no trace on the top like in yours there is also a silver shine on the post looking with a magnifier. If your don't show some silver solder signs not sure how you can fix it without moving the post?

Jim O

On March 7, 2019 at 1:09 PM bbortnick@2bcool.ca mailto:bbortnick@2bcool.ca wrote:


Yes, I would also trust Tek. Maybe they are soldered on the bottom of the board (can't see without removing) ?



Re: 91% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol to clean potentiometers?

nonIonizing EMF
 

On Thu, Mar 7, 2019 at 01:05 PM, nonIonizing EMF wrote:


Thanks for the info. Looks like comes in a plastic bottle from TrueValue and
Ace Hardware:
https://www.truevalue.com/isopropyl-alcohol-99-128-oz
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/home-and-decor/health-and-beauty/first-aid/9066085

I figured, and did, buy the little dispensers of the DeOxit formulas and just
mix in a spray bottle with IPA.

I think the green formula in the squeeze tube is the DeOxit Fader one that
used to be the Cailube MCL.
Not sure which video I watched... though something like this inspired me to research the MSDS's for the more expensive DeOxit Spray cans which led me to determine if I have the time... I mise well make up my own spray equivalent with the squeeze tubes that I bought a sample 4 pack of the 4 types.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5B6m11x5iA

Here looks like a better video with a better stem to easier refill instead of a bike stem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doLPFPeJ6JE

I've just been using a ~50ml glass bottle with a spray top so far.


Re: 91% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol to clean potentiometers?

Roy Thistle
 

On Wed, Mar 6, 2019 at 02:22 PM, David Slipper wrote:


There is also a "trimmer primer"
Hi Dave:
I'm aware of "The Best of the Trimmer Primers"... which is a selection of parts of older versions of "The Trimmer Primmer." But, I don't/can't find any of the older versions of (The Trimmer Primer). Does anyone know about those?
Regards


Re: 91% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol to clean potentiometers?

nonIonizing EMF
 

On Thu, Mar 7, 2019 at 01:08 PM, Jim Ford wrote:


India Pale Ale
Kind of like WD40... might not be so bad at first... then later can be worse effects?

28621 - 28640 of 183703